Rear Hatch lock actuator problems [Archive] - Nissan Armada Forum: Armada & Infiniti QX56 Forums

: Rear Hatch lock actuator problems


grogzero
04-15-2008, 07:36 PM
Hi all, I've searched the forums and found a couple of hints at this problem but no solution. My 04 Armada is keeping me locked out of the back. I guess now that the brake judder problem has gone on vacation it's time for electrical fun and games. The problem appears to be in the door lock actuator for the rear lift gate. The problem manifested slowly, over time missing only occasionally on the unlock/engage handle for the rear door. Now it does it constantly.

I can crawl into the back and push the little emergency access lever to the bottom in the rear door access panel and then open the door from outside but this gets somewhat more challenging when the car is full of groceries or plants or dogs and kids.

The rear door latch is tight and not the problem. The door locks OK but the door lock actuator isn't pulling the lever down far enough each time. I took the door panel off and lubricated all the parts I could find. This fixed the problem for about a month. I would replace the electrical actuator but I can't find a part number for it or a replacement on the 'net. I guess I could try and pull the thing out and open it up to lubricate the guts.

Anyone else have this problem? Oh yeah, the rear door glass wouldn't open either but that was because the cable clip was detached from the lock. I think it's a result of the door lock being semi-disengaged when the glass was opened.

Thanks for any input (and great forum BTW)

GZ

cruciangeneral
04-15-2008, 08:52 PM
I had that problem. so what i would do is lift the rear glass lever first and then the lift the liftgate lever and it would open. It beats jumping in the back and pushing the emergency latch down which i did for a while myself. But mines havent done that in awhile thank God. so try the glass liftgate lever first then lift the liftgate lever after. Let m know if it works for u.

BlakSpyda
04-15-2008, 10:35 PM
...and welcome to CA grogzero!

grogzero
04-16-2008, 09:52 AM
I tried the glass lever first just a few minutes ago and it didnt' work either. Thanks for the suggestion though. I was able to get it open by locking and unlocking the car five or six times. It's a little irritating. I wonder if I used the wrong lubricant. I had some silicone lube for the treadmill that I put on it. It's supposed to be good for stuff like bicycle chains and lawnmower wheels (if you can beleive the little pictures on the can). I'm going to open it all up again and spray it with something different.

GZ

grogzero
04-19-2008, 02:54 PM
I pulled it all apart and the back door glass lock was disconnected. What is happening is that the electrical actuator isn't pulling the lock lever all the way down. It's stopping about 15% short of where it needs to be. This puts the rear door glass lever in between the swing position and the unlock position--which happens to be a hard place. So when you try to open the back door glass when the lock is 15% short of where it needs to be, sometimes it pops into the open position but in my case the little plastic clip popped out of the lever and left the glass stuck in the locked position.

So now on to the real problem. My back door lock actuator isn't able to pull the lever down 100% into the unlocked position. Even with the electrical actuator taken out of the system with no load on it the plastic lever is hit-or-miss on completing the unlock swing. The unit is sonic welded and appears to be maintenance free. So I want to replace this part but I can't find it. The part number on the actuator is:

905507S000
0892068-A
B/D ACTR
03 09 26 12V

Anyone know where I can find this online? Thanks.

GZ

mich05
04-24-2008, 02:50 AM
Hi all, I've searched the forums and found a couple of hints at this problem but no solution. My 04 Armada is keeping me locked out of the back. I guess now that the brake judder problem has gone on vacation it's time for electrical fun and games. The problem appears to be in the door lock actuator for the rear lift gate. The problem manifested slowly, over time missing only occasionally on the unlock/engage handle for the rear door. Now it does it constantly.

I can crawl into the back and push the little emergency access lever to the bottom in the rear door access panel and then open the door from outside but this gets somewhat more challenging when the car is full of groceries or plants or dogs and kids.

The rear door latch is tight and not the problem. The door locks OK but the door lock actuator isn't pulling the lever down far enough each time. I took the door panel off and lubricated all the parts I could find. This fixed the problem for about a month. I would replace the electrical actuator but I can't find a part number for it or a replacement on the 'net. I guess I could try and pull the thing out and open it up to lubricate the guts.

Anyone else have this problem? Oh yeah, the rear door glass wouldn't open either but that was because the cable clip was detached from the lock. I think it's a result of the door lock being semi-disengaged when the glass was opened.

Thanks for any input (and great forum BTW)

GZ
Yes my 2004 had bad sensors in the rear hatch twice now since 2004. The motor worked fine. It would not close or when it did close then it wouldn't open..

BigHeadDennis
12-26-2008, 10:30 PM
Howdy, folks. I'm having the *EXACT* same problem as Grogzero did. Started a week ago, when the hatch would refuse to open. I could pop the rear glass open, and that alone would "loosen" up the hatch so that it would unlock. today, when I tried to open the glass, it had some resistance, then I heard a "pop" sound. Doh.

Ended up having to crawl in and move the little white plastic locking lever from inside, as Grogzero described. Now I can open the rear hatch, but it requires crawling in each time. And the rear glass seems to be permanently locked.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Anyone have any guides/DIYs/step-by-steps on how to take the rear hatch apart? part #s?

Grazie,

--Dennis

madafan
12-27-2008, 06:42 AM
I too am having that exact ame issue! The cold weather seems to have the most effect on the lcok. Now that it is not freezing cold the hatch seems to unlock OK but the glass will not open any more.

grogzero
12-28-2008, 02:33 PM
Hi guys, I did manage to fix the problem. I removed the actuator from the door, drilled a small hole in the gear area of the actuator plastic (just large enough for the sprayer straw to fit in) and sprayed a couple of shots of lubricant into the gear section. I connected the actuator to the wiring harness and ran through a series of lock/unlock pushes from the driver's door lock switch. I squirted a couple more shots into the hole for good measure and covered the hole with a small square of tape.

I put everything back together and it hasn't acted up since then. I didn't post back here right away because I wasn't sure the problem was fixed. It's been long enough now that I can say it's a mostly successful fix--8 months without a lock-out.

The lubricant I used was either liquid wrench or silicone spray.

2006armada
01-05-2009, 04:20 PM
can you post pictures of what you did because I have this problem all the time and it is quite irritating. I also am not able to open the glass as the cable has come off again. Thanks.

BigHeadDennis
01-05-2009, 05:00 PM
Hi guys, I did manage to fix the problem. I removed the actuator from the door, drilled a small hole in the gear area of the actuator plastic (just large enough for the sprayer straw to fit in) and sprayed a couple of shots of lubricant into the gear section. I connected the actuator to the wiring harness and ran through a series of lock/unlock pushes from the driver's door lock switch. I squirted a couple more shots into the hole for good measure and covered the hole with a small square of tape.

I put everything back together and it hasn't acted up since then. I didn't post back here right away because I wasn't sure the problem was fixed. It's been long enough now that I can say it's a mostly successful fix--8 months without a lock-out.

The lubricant I used was either liquid wrench or silicone spray.

I followed Grogzero's instructions exactly, and fixed mine! Surprised at how easy it was.

The cable that connects the rear GLASS release handle with the actual locking mechanism had popped off at the "swivel" inside. Reseating it fixed the rear glass release easily.

My only issue was that because the above mentioned cable had popped off, I couldn't open the rear glass. So I had to remove the rear glass handle from the inside, in order to get the glass up. The handle for the glass has two studs that run through the glass, secured by two nuts. In removing one of them, the nut had seized on so tightly, it actually broke the stud off the handle. Doh! Still, only $20 from my local Nissan dealer (Marlboro Nissan outside of Boston), and it came with new hardware too.

To fix the lock actuator mechanism, I merely moved it around a few times, a little lube, and it works fine now.

Thanks, Grogzero!

vty,

--Dennis

Stryker
01-05-2009, 08:19 PM
This is good to know - had this problem start about a month ago (thinking cold weather) and appears every now and then - applied some WD40 and it occurs even less - glad that there is a viable fix without having to bring back to dealer - thx for the info

r cleghorn
01-22-2009, 04:26 PM
The same thing happened to me.

The liftgate handle would not open the liftgate, for a couple of months I had to pull the back window handle then the liftgate handle to open the liftgate. It got to the point where that didn't work, so I took it a part.

My mechanism was just as has been said before. I lubricated the latch mechanism, that didn't help. Without the latch mechanism attached, the lock motor would still not fully unlock itself. I lubricated the lock motor(drilled hole just as above), still didnt help.

Finally, I went to buy a new lock motor, my thought was that it didn't have enough power to unlock itself without anything attached, or maybe the little gear inside had lost a tooth. But my parts guy wouldn't let me, he told me to replace the latch mechanism first. I didn't believe him, but I did it anyway and it fixed it. The part was only about 60 bucks, versus 100 for the motor. Works just like new now.

Stari27
01-29-2009, 10:07 AM
#1- try a lubricant called "Fluid Film" It is lanolin based. I started using it in Nova Scotia and it keeps the rust away forever or nearly so.
#2- Same problem- door wont open, use the glass door and it opens. But last night at the warm, for us, temp of 11 the big door would not relatch. I fiddled with the latch, I tried locking and unlocking f4om the driver door control, I mover the inside latch release up and down. Nothing! I, unfortunately, do not know what I did corrrectly, but it finally did latch. Any suggestions for this variation on the theme?
PetrB

hudiyo
01-29-2009, 11:09 AM
got same here its been 3yrs now. every dec-feb i always go to the shop to deal with it. and its not good at all. when temp reach around teens that happed. it wont open. i dont know why nissan dont have a recall to this. lots of armada owner have this issue.

Icanfixit
05-07-2009, 09:16 PM
Same story with the rear latch. The solution was to replace the lock assembly mechanism. Very easy removal and install, part was $78.00 from dealer. Works perfect now. (drenched new one with WD-40 to prevent the new one from rusting.)

hudiyo
05-10-2009, 08:36 AM
is it easy to replace? my warranty just expire this year so i have to do it myself and what is the part no.? thank you...
and can you post some pics where your apply the w40.



Same story with the rear latch. The solution was to replace the lock assembly mechanism. Very easy removal and install, part was $78.00 from dealer. Works perfect now. (drenched new one with WD-40 to prevent the new one from rusting.)

Stari27
05-11-2009, 08:53 AM
Instead of WD 40 that is not really a lubricant and dries out, try Fluid Film. It is lanolin based and I use it at my place near the Atlantic Ocean. It lasts for a long time and does well as a lubricant as well as an anti-corrosion material.

hudiyo
05-12-2009, 09:22 AM
where can i buy that and can you post some pic if its ok :) im not good mechanic hehehe.. thanks

Instead of WD 40 that is not really a lubricant and dries out, try Fluid Film. It is lanolin based and I use it at my place near the Atlantic Ocean. It lasts for a long time and does well as a lubricant as well as an anti-corrosion material.

Icanfixit
05-12-2009, 09:32 AM
I had trouble finding the part online with the dealer supplied number, so I just bought from the dealer. Remove the 2 bolts from the pull down handle, and using a flat-blade screw driver, carefully pry the plastic interior of the door. Then you will see some foam-like material which you just gently pull off (attached with an adhesive). Then remove the 2 bottom bolts from the latch, and a third one a little higher on the door. You should then be able to move the latch out carefully through a large opening in the metal door panel. Once your at this point, just swap a couple cables to the new latch and your good to go. You will see how corroded the previous latch was and why it was not working. I would apply any lubricant of your choosing to keep this from happening again. (Dont be overwhelmed, it took me longer to type this post then it did to replace the latch :D) Good luck!

hudiyo
05-12-2009, 09:41 AM
:D hehehehe thanks icanfixit im gonna try this if you have some pic that be nice :D. i hope its gonna warm up today so that i can try to remove the latch.

Icanfixit
05-12-2009, 10:01 AM
Addendum to latch replacement... 3 bolts on latch, then 4th nut to remove a little higher. Also you need to disconnect the wiring cable off the latch. Sorry, don't have pics.

BlakSpyda
05-13-2009, 11:26 AM
Welcome to CA Icanfixit!

MyGirlsArmada
11-13-2009, 01:17 AM
ok so my back door works fine, but I see where some are having problems with the back glass like me. I pull back glass handle and its like the glass is locked, it wont open. Are ya'll saying the cable probably slipped off (somehow) and i should take the panel off from inside to expose the cable?? I havent had a working back glass since I bought my armada.....

Icanfixit
11-18-2009, 11:12 AM
Yes, you need to remove the panel to expose the cable (from the window latch to the window.) The mechanism is pretty straightforward to see how it gets disconnected. That's where your problem lies, a simple plastic clip has become disconnected, so when you pull the lever, nothing happens. Reconnect the plastic clip, or buy a new one if it is broke. good luck ;)

jcorvair
11-18-2009, 05:30 PM
I would try using a good gun lubricant. I had a pump action shotgun that would slam open when fired. It turned out I was using WD40 and that was the problem. A switch to a high end gun lube and it was fine.

I need to pull mine apart soon. The temp has started to drop and as such the rear door has started to act up and not open without popping the glass first.

Cheers,

MyGirlsArmada
11-19-2009, 08:07 AM
ok I got 7 days off this week, i'm gonan try to tackle the back glass problem. Hopefully just clip needs to be put back rather than something actually broke. you know how dealers can be, they never have parts in stock...

Stari27
11-19-2009, 04:32 PM
Cost me $90 to have the dealership fix it.

bpatterson
01-09-2010, 12:56 PM
I've been having similar problems - first the door wouldn't unlock, then I discovered by pulling the window latch first, the door latch would then work. Then a couple days ago both latches stopped working. I followed the advice on here for removing the rear interior panel to access the locks. The cables are held to the locks with tiny pink clips, and are only secured by a press-on pink "nut: on the back (really flimsy contruction). The clip for the window was off, so I reattached it & secured it by threading a small wire (baggie tie) through the front of the clip & twisting it down tight. This got me back to where I was - have to unlatch the window to unlatch the door. The door latch cable stops before it is able to disengage the lock...but at least I can get in now. I've decided to sell it, so I'm not going to replace the door latch. Thanks for all the helpful posts!

BigHeadDennis
01-09-2010, 09:49 PM
I've been having similar problems - first the door wouldn't unlock, then I discovered by pulling the window latch first, the door latch would then work. Then a couple days ago both latches stopped working. I followed the advice on here for removing the rear interior panel to access the locks. The cables are held to the locks with tiny pink clips, and are only secured by a press-on pink "nut: on the back (really flimsy contruction). The clip for the window was off, so I reattached it & secured it by threading a small wire (baggie tie) through the front of the clip & twisting it down tight. This got me back to where I was - have to unlatch the window to unlatch the door. The door latch cable stops before it is able to disengage the lock...but at least I can get in now. I've decided to sell it, so I'm not going to replace the door latch. Thanks for all the helpful posts!

Yup, that seems to be the common denominator failure mode! Everytime I open the rear hatch now in chilly winter weather, I'm half-expecting it not to work, with the lube I shot into the mechanism having gummed up due to the cold. But, happily, it's still fine!

vty,

--Dennis

BlakSpyda
01-09-2010, 09:55 PM
Welcome to CA bpatterson!

jcorvair
01-10-2010, 09:35 AM
Try using a good gun lube. It should be better at low temps.

Cheers,

Zire
01-20-2010, 06:03 PM
I thought I searched well enough a few weeks back and posted a new thread about this very same problem...

Sorry to hear that many others have had the same problem, but very happy to read about a possible fix. This issue has been driving me nuts for months now!!

Thanks fellas!!

~ Zire :D

bpatterson
02-03-2010, 05:02 PM
Well, after going through the numerous suggestions on Armada Forums, I took the door apart & fixed it. That lasted a couple weeks - and now it is broken again. The interior safety latch is also inoperable. THIS PROBLEM NEEDS A RECALL! I have filed complaints & a recall request, and suggest everyone do the same! Here are the links where you can report your problems:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

http://consumeraffairs.com/automotive/nissan_armada.html (click the red button on the top right side of the page).

If enough folks complain, maybe we can get this resolved!

BigHeadDennis
02-03-2010, 05:39 PM
Well, after going through the numerous suggestions on Armada Forums, I took the door apart & fixed it. That lasted a couple weeks - and now it is broken again. The interior safety latch is also inoperable. THIS PROBLEM NEEDS A RECALL! I have filed complaints & a recall request, and suggest everyone do the same! Here are the links where you can report your problems:

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

http://consumeraffairs.com/automotive/nissan_armada.html (click the red button on the top right side of the page).

If enough folks complain, maybe we can get this resolved!

Hey, as much as I'd love to see a recall happening, if it's not directly related to the safety of the vehicle, I don't think NHTSA will require a recall.

vty,

--Dennis

1BadC10
02-16-2010, 08:21 AM
Same problem on my '07 Armada regarding the lactching mechanism. I can hear the actuator moving when locking/unlocking the doors. However, the mechanism does not allow for disengaging the lock on the rear hatch. I can lift the rear glass just fine, reach in to access the plastic release lever, and push it down. However, the door still does not unlock. After pushing the lock/unlock buttons on the remote about ten (10) times, the lift gate finally unlocked.

This is the second time this year this has happened. I'll be bring the Armada in for an oil change in two (2) weeks, and requesting they fix it under warranty (100K extended). It is annoying to say the least!

mangarete
02-16-2010, 09:19 AM
Can somebody post a video. I have the same problem every now and then. I thought it was becaus I have two subs in the back.

I'm reading so many happy testimonials and perhaps the problem can be fixed. Can someone post a how to do it video. The administrator should make this tutorial a Sticky message for others to use.

BigHeadDennis
02-16-2010, 12:16 PM
Same problem on my '07 Armada regarding the lactching mechanism. I can hear the actuator moving when locking/unlocking the doors. However, the mechanism does not allow for disengaging the lock on the rear hatch. I can lift the rear glass just fine, reach in to access the plastic release lever, and push it down. However, the door still does not unlock. After pushing the lock/unlock buttons on the remote about ten (10) times, the lift gate finally unlocked.

This is the second time this year this has happened. I'll be bring the Armada in for an oil change in two (2) weeks, and requesting they fix it under warranty (100K extended). It is annoying to say the least!

That's exactly the failure mechanism. You can hear the solenoid engaging to unlock it, but the plastic module with the control arm doesn't move enough to actually unlock the door. That's why the drilling-into-the-module and spritzing lubricant works; it reduces the resistance, so the solenoid will move the arm all the way as intended.

vty,

--Dennis

1BadC10
02-16-2010, 02:13 PM
That's exactly the failure mechanism. You can hear the solenoid engaging to unlock it, but the plastic module with the control arm doesn't move enough to actually unlock the door. That's why the drilling-into-the-module and spritzing lubricant works; it reduces the resistance, so the solenoid will move the arm all the way as intended.


I can manually move that lever in both directions, but the lift gate still won't unlock. I'll try to remember to take it apart this evening. If I do, I'll snap some pictures. But, I'm leary of dinking around with it, as I plan on taking to the stealership under warranty. I'll see. ;)

1BadC10
03-06-2010, 11:40 AM
Well, yesterday, the intermittent issue became permanent. Since I'm off for the first time in two months, and I have the extended warranty coverage, I'm waiting & watching the Nissan tech take 2 hours to disassemble the entire latching system, and fix it. LOL. Took them an hour just to get the door unlocked. Even the lift glass would not open.

So... Where's the recall?!! That's TWO warranty issues to date! Glad I bought the coverage! ;)

armada mike
05-24-2010, 11:02 PM
Has anyone had the problem of the actuator not working at all? I can open it by using the emergency tailgate latch but, it will not open using the outside latch or by using the tailgate lift button in the front. Also when I unlock the doors, the rear latch does not seem to grab to open the tailgate. HELP!!!!!!:confused:

Rocket
10-30-2010, 03:58 AM
Whoever started this post, thank you very much ... this has been an issue for me for the past 2 years. After finding and reading this forum, I went out the other day and did exactly what the fellow did, who posted having drilled a small hole in the electronic actuator for the rear door, and lubricated the heck out of it with a silicon based spray lubricant. After pulling the door assembly apart, I had it fixed in no time ... the door works better than it ever has, and seems like new on my 04 Armada.

I found that my actuator traveled about 75% of the way it should, allegedly because the sealed unit was getting gummed up. It acted up mostly in cold weather, and the travel could be further verified with the emergency handle located inside, but on the back door.

For those thinking of doing this, the actuator is basically a combination electronic component with gears, all inside a white rectangular plastic box. There is a wire harness that plugs into it. The actuator is secured to the door framing by a single bolt/nut, and two small screws at the top. For those of you who might be confused on the location of the actuator, it is centrally located (with respect to the rear hatch door), and is located just below the rear window glass at the very middle of the door (just underneath the door lock mechanism holding the glass door shut). Basically, you will need to pull off the rear door interior plastic handle and the interior plastic paneling, to access these rear door lock components. While you are at it, do a visual check of the linkages, and lubricate anything you can see and access, including wire cables and linkages.

Some have asked where to drill the hole in the actuator. Basically, I drilled mine near the top. Be sure to drill it in a place where you will not interfere with the interior electronics, gearing, etc. (the white plastic casing for the actuator is somewhat transparent, but mostly white). Make the hole with a drill bit ensuring it is as small as possible, and be careful that the plastic drill bit shavings don't go inside in the process ... make the hole just large enough to get the spray hose inside from your can of lubricant. I sprayed mine with a silicone based spray, and cycled the actuator with the keyfob to get it moving and well lubed. I then sprayed in extra for good measure, and taped up the outside to maintain it as a sealed unit, and to prevent dirt from getting inside.

I really do think this is a great idea, and thank the genius who came up with this solution.

Good luck.

dkocse
12-02-2010, 02:41 PM
Hey everyone:

I had the same problem... thanks to all that posted here, i was able to fix it pretty easily. Actually, my back window release latch stopped working a while back and the back door would occasionally get stuck. I saw a lot of people were asking for pics so the 2nd time i had to fix it, i took some pics, hope they help. The first time i took the door apart, i was really nervous but it wasn't a big deal at all... the 2nd time i had it apart and back together in a few minutes. The first pic shows the back door apart. I took the 2 bolts off the handle and then just popped the clips until i could get to the actuator. There is a white cloth insulation piece and then a rubbery material that is glued to the door. You will have to separate it from the door to get to the actuator but when i went back a few weeks later, the adhesive re-attached so it wasn't a big deal. In the other pics, you can see the actuator and where the pin goes in for the window and the back door. The pin has a pink cap covering it. The one on the left is for the window and the right side is for the door. On the actuator, there is a flat metal piece with a hole in it for the pin. If your back window isn't working, likely it came out. The first time i put it back it worked for a few weeks and then came out again. This time i tied it down with a little zip tie... hopefully this holds permanently. I did not drill a hole in the actuator but i will have to. The back door tends to stick but i haven't been able to go out and get a gun lubricant yet so i am going to wait. Again, because it's pretty simple to do, i don't mind taking it apart again to do the door handle later. The pics show the pin outside the actuator and then the fix. Good luck to anyone trying and thanks again for everyone for their help!

Rocket
12-03-2010, 03:46 AM
Hi all:

I posted just over a month ago, on the procedure for fixing the rear door hatch actuator, which seems to be a problem for quite a few Armada owners. In any case, this is just a follow up to my having done the "drill hole" and "lubricate" procedure over one month ago.

Well the extremely cold weather hit just after I had done this procedure on my vehicle, and it has now been just over one month's time. Today, I report that the door actuator and door lock mechanism works beautifully every time (after having experienced nearly two years of frustration). This matter has been fixed, and is shown to work well in very, very cold weather (-25 deg C, or -15 deg F).

If this has been your problem, I can almost assure you this to also be your fix.

cjcorrea
12-28-2010, 07:02 PM
Good cause this is getting to be a pain in the ***.

jerks_07_armada
12-29-2010, 01:26 AM
this crap just started happening to me ....

wekilled
12-29-2010, 12:57 PM
Some have asked where to drill the hole in the actuator. Basically, I drilled mine near the top. Be sure to drill it in a place where you will not interfere with the interior electronics, gearing, etc.

Do you have a pic of where you drilled the hole on yours. I don't want to guess what the "top" is and you seemed to be pretty successful on the location you used.

Rocket
12-30-2010, 04:11 AM
No, I don't have a pic and the door is fully assembled now.

Basically, remove the interior plastic door panel, and you will see the white actuator there. Notice the position that is is bolted in place, and you will know which is the top end. Pick a spot in the plastic where it appears that you won't hit anything internal, and drill the SMALLEST hole you can ... this means, a hole no bigger than the "straw" that comes with your can of lube. Then, spray generously and cover the hole with a piece of tape to prevent dirt from getting in.

Mine is still going strong, even in the dead of winter here in central Canada.

This solution works great. My door is like new, after about two years of headache.

Good luck.

wekilled
01-03-2011, 03:36 PM
Thanks! Will get in there and do the same. Seems to be a better solution than the dealer just replacing it with another faulty part.

fredlexky
01-05-2011, 02:45 PM
A big thank you to everyone who have given there knowhow to repair this latch problem. I've battled this for about 8 months. I knew if I went to the dealer it would cost an arm and a leg to fix, sure enough, I took it in last week for a recall on the ECM relay, had him check out latch, told me it would cost $300.00 to fix it. So I came home jumped online found this fourm and found out how to fix it myself, so a very big Thank You to you all, and in the future if I learn any tricks or secrets I'll be sure to post them here.

hudiyo
01-07-2011, 10:16 AM
do you have some pictures? i have still this problem until now(3-4yrs)

No, I don't have a pic and the door is fully assembled now.

Basically, remove the interior plastic door panel, and you will see the white actuator there. Notice the position that is is bolted in place, and you will know which is the top end. Pick a spot in the plastic where it appears that you won't hit anything internal, and drill the SMALLEST hole you can ... this means, a hole no bigger than the "straw" that comes with your can of lube. Then, spray generously and cover the hole with a piece of tape to prevent dirt from getting in.

Mine is still going strong, even in the dead of winter here in central Canada.

This solution works great. My door is like new, after about two years of headache.

Good luck.

Rocket
01-08-2011, 01:53 AM
No, sorry. No pictures, and my vehicle is fully assembled.

I suggest reading paying close attention to the wording in the comments section of this forum. If you do that, you should have a pretty good idea exactly what you should be doing/finding as you do the repair. Good luck.

dkocse
01-10-2011, 04:04 AM
Hey everyone:

I had the same problem... thanks to all that posted here, i was able to fix it pretty easily. Actually, my back window release latch stopped working a while back and the back door would occasionally get stuck. I saw a lot of people were asking for pics so the 2nd time i had to fix it, i took some pics, hope they help. The first time i took the door apart, i was really nervous but it wasn't a big deal at all... the 2nd time i had it apart and back together in a few minutes. The first pic shows the back door apart. I took the 2 bolts off the handle and then just popped the clips until i could get to the actuator. There is a white cloth insulation piece and then a rubbery material that is glued to the door. You will have to separate it from the door to get to the actuator but when i went back a few weeks later, the adhesive re-attached so it wasn't a big deal. In the other pics, you can see the actuator and where the pin goes in for the window and the back door. The pin has a pink cap covering it. The one on the left is for the window and the right side is for the door. On the actuator, there is a flat metal piece with a hole in it for the pin. If your back window isn't working, likely it came out. The first time i put it back it worked for a few weeks and then came out again. This time i tied it down with a little zip tie... hopefully this holds permanently. I did not drill a hole in the actuator but i will have to. The back door tends to stick but i haven't been able to go out and get a gun lubricant yet so i am going to wait. Again, because it's pretty simple to do, i don't mind taking it apart again to do the door handle later. The pics show the pin outside the actuator and then the fix. Good luck to anyone trying and thanks again for everyone for their help!


I realized that i put the rear window pin in the wrong direction... sorry. If you look at the 4th pi. (i believe) you will see where i put the pin back in for the window release on the left side. The pin should go in the same way as the door release, underneath and pointing up. It came out soon after i put it in the way in the pic. and i went back a week or so ago and flipped it. It was pretty tight today when i pulled it but it did open the window. In the past, when there was resistance, the pin would come out... hopefully this is the last time i need to put the pin in. I was a little hesitant to drill a hole in the actuator so i stuck the straw of a silicone spray into the plastic piece that is sticking out of the actuator... that didn't seem to help. If anyone has a really specific area they can explain as to where to drill the hole, clearly it will be appreciated. I know it's been explained a few times but a pic. or diagram would be ideal before a newbie like me drills a hole. Thanks everyone.

pizzaman
01-23-2011, 06:21 PM
Well, I woke up this morning to 1 deg weather and a hatch that didn't move. I am going to try this fix tomorrow but was wondering if anyone with this problem experience random hatch openings leading up to a complete failure??? A handful of times, I have walked into the garage to find my hatch half open. Any ideas anyone?

ExTrumpet
12-17-2011, 11:17 PM
First post...add me to the list of back hatch victims! Bought my wife the Armada a week ago--the hatch didn't work on the lot; the salesman assured me it would be fixed before delivery.

Long story short, I think the service department tripped the latch in the door and called it good. Every time the lock is engaged and unlocked the back hatch stays locked.

dkocse
12-18-2011, 12:58 AM
Welcome to the club! If anyone can give a part number for the rear hatch actuator that would really help out. The numbers given earlier in this thread are manufacturers numbers and according to Nissan they don't mean anything. I have called several dealerships and even emailed pics of the actuator to them and still haven't been given the right part number. Thanks.

TODDMADA
01-11-2012, 09:39 PM
i just got on this forum looking for this the exact problem that has been getting worse for the last three months! I cannot wait to give this a try. thanks for all your posts.

Scorpion
01-12-2012, 07:50 AM
I had problems with the hatch since the day I bought the truck


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

BlakSpyda
01-13-2012, 03:55 PM
Welcome TODDMADA!

ExTrumpet
01-15-2012, 11:14 AM
Update...after a month, the fix is still good! I drilled a hole in the plastic gear housing, sprayed Fluid Film in it and sealed it. I also cleaned up all the gunk on the metal mechanism itself (this was keeping the actuator from fully "actuating").

This cleared the problem and have not had a problem since! Thanks, all, for your input and solutions to this nagging problem on an awesome truck!

BlakSpyda
01-16-2012, 11:03 AM
Belated welcome ExTrumpet!

dkocse
01-17-2012, 02:08 AM
I'm still looking for a part number for the actuator... If anyone can help me out I'd really appreciate it. Thanks.

perry10
02-10-2012, 04:32 AM
Had the same problem, thanks for the fix!

Bandrasco
02-14-2012, 07:03 PM
Getting close to 200K and this little gremlin decided to hitch a ride on my 04!:) I'll have none of that. I'm going to try to lubricate it before I take more aggressive action. This door has opened thousands upon thousands of times so it doesn't surprise me too much. I'm mentally prepared that things are going to start popping up as I climb into the 200K club. I just hope I can service them before they serve me.:eek:

Thanks for the tip!

BlakSpyda
02-17-2012, 08:21 AM
Getting close to 200K ~~~the 200K club. ~~:eek:~~
WOW, Congratulations! I think you are the first to post this number so far. Post pics of your odometer reading when you cross over!:thumbup:

GarageFullofNissans
04-26-2012, 09:55 PM
Had this same problem on my 2004 Armada SE - manual rear hatch.

Temp solution in my case was to open the hatch glass, which released the "lock" on the rear hatch, allowing me to lift the handle and the hatch. It would not "unlock" with the key fob.

Complained to dealer during visit last month. They lubed the mechanism and claimed that there is already an access hole to lube the mechanism. No need to drill one for what they do to service it.

Regardless, it's been a month or so and it's working fine. $40 or so for the solution. Worth not spending an hour futzing with it for me. To each his own though. Time will tell if their solution is permanent.

Nivram
11-12-2012, 09:55 AM
Fixing this problem is simply a matter of reducing friction. Taking into consideration everything posted, here's how I solved the problem without spending a dime and without drilling a hole: Rear hatch window has to open in order to remove panel. Mine would not open, so I removed panel as much as I could, then reached under it to release window latch manually. To fix this window issue, I re-attached cable. To fix actuator problem, I removed actuator and poured 5w-30 motor oil into the electrical contact socket. I filled the socket 3 times and let the oil seep completely through. Next, I attached electric to actuator and cycled between unlock and lock via remote and notice it was working well. Do not reattach yet. Next, I manually worked the latch and notice it had a lot of friction. I sprayed WD-40 on the latch assembly and noticed it worked much easier. To insure the latch stayed lubricated, I squirted some 5w-30 motor oil on it. Finally, I re-assembled everything.
Note: some of the plastic clips, which hold the panel, may not come out with the panel. If this happens, to re-assemble panel, pull these clips out of the hatch and attach to panel, then shove panel back into place. I would like to thank Grogzero and the ones that suggested replacing the latch.

Nivram

Blame Canada
12-31-2012, 01:43 PM
My 2005 Armada is having some age issues as well. Turning around 96,000-97,000 miles currently.

Door lock Actuator
Our passenger front door unlock actuator gave up the ghost. I pulled the panel off, and realized I don't have small enough hands to try to un-bolt & un-plug the actuator, so the dealer is fixing it right now for me. $250 parts & labour here too, as previously mentioned. :(

Rear Hatch
For approximately the last 6 months or so, I've been pulling the glass latch, to help the rear hatch open. Now I see what's the problem after reading all your write-ups. Since pulling the passenger door panel off didn't scare me, I'll tackle the rear hatch panel tonight, and lube both the latch mechanism, and then the actuator. I'll take picture as I do this, and post up afterwards.

It seems, only one post in this thread had a Nissan Tech recommend lubing the mechanism first (which fixed the problem), so I'll assume it's just the weather/rust environment of the "Great White North" that plagues this latch.

I'll drill a hole in the actuator and fill it with some "Fluid Film", as I have some in the garage, but only after I verify lubing the latch parts fixes the rear hatch problem first.

(Of course, if it doesn't fix it alone, I'll lube the actuator, and post up my findings. :p )

Thanks for all the great commentary. :D

dkocse
01-01-2013, 12:47 AM
Over a year later and I'm still looking for a part number for the actuator. I've been to several dealerships and even pulled the back apart and showed guys the part... Nobody has been able to help me. If anyone can get me the part number I will be forever in their debt. Thanks!

fredlexky
01-03-2013, 11:10 AM
dkocse- if my memory is right, when my latch quit working, my service guy and myself went through the book looking for a latch part number-no luck there's not one. What we found was the latch is part of the assembly for the rear window latch system, you have to buy the kit, I believe it was under 200.00, well worth getting rid of the aggravation. It was either called the rear window, or rear door assembly, the guy at the parts desk can pull it up on computer and check. Hope this helps. Fredlexky.

GarageFullofNissans
01-04-2013, 12:00 PM
My 2005 Armada is having some age issues as well. Turning around 96,000-97,000 miles currently.

Rear Hatch
For approximately the last 6 months or so, I've been pulling the glass latch, to help the rear hatch open. Now I see what's the problem after reading all your write-ups. Since pulling the passenger door panel off didn't scare me, I'll tackle the rear hatch panel tonight, and lube both the latch mechanism, and then the actuator. I'll take picture as I do this, and post up afterwards.

It seems, only one post in this thread had a Nissan Tech recommend lubing the mechanism first (which fixed the problem), so I'll assume it's just the weather/rust environment of the "Great White North" that plagues this latch.

I'll drill a hole in the actuator and fill it with some "Fluid Film", as I have some in the garage, but only after I verify lubing the latch parts fixes the rear hatch problem first.

(Of course, if it doesn't fix it alone, I'll lube the actuator, and post up my findings. :p )

Thanks for all the great commentary. :D

I may be late with this, but when I had mine at the dealer I mentioned this same problem and asked if they had seen it before/what the solution was/what the cost would be for them to fix it. $40 or $45 and they handled it by lubing the sealed mechanism. When I asked about having to drill a hole, the service advisor said that there was an existing hole to spray the lube in through and that this was a relatively easy fix. It's a work vehicle for me, so the repair is a business expense - the value of having them responsible for any cracked plastic, etc - it was worth $45 to not have to handle it myself. It's been well over a year and I've not had a bit of trouble with it. I'm in an out of my read hatch multiple times per day, almost every day. It sees a good bit of use. Having had to lube the mechanism once in 8 years seems pretty reasonable now that I think about it.

Good luck with your repairs.

Nivram
01-04-2013, 03:45 PM
Over a year later and I'm still looking for a part number for the actuator. I've been to several dealerships and even pulled the back apart and showed guys the part... Nobody has been able to help me. If anyone can get me the part number I will be forever in their debt. Thanks!

That unit is only available as whole lock assembly. Cheapest price I've seen is around $167. The part number is 905027S400. You have to be careful when ordering because there is another part number with a "0" in place of the 4 and it is a lock assembly but is not powered. Description of the item you need will can be listed as Armada truck lock actuator motor, or lock Assy-Back Door or liftgate lock assembly.

dkocse
03-03-2013, 01:23 AM
Thanks Nivram. You are correct about that part number although I do not have a power lift gate so I did need the part number with the 0. I ordered it a few weeks ago and after waiting for it to be delivered... I called Nissan back and they told me that the part number changed and that's what caused the delay. However, if you are like me and the actuator stops working, you will need to replace the unit. I did not get the new part number but the price was lowered. I think i paid about 100 bux for the part, originally they told me about 125. I was able to so it myself in an hour or so. I have 0 DIY car experience but I have taken the trunk apart several times over the years working on this issue. It took an hour because after I installed the part, the window wasn't latching. I just needed to loosen and slide the catch mechanism. Also, the door wasn't opening at first, I needed to spray the metal components connected to the emergency trunk release. Basically the actuator was working but not pushing the levers all the way. A little wd40 did the trick. I have some pics of the part and some pics at various points of the install. I couldn't upload them here, please message me if you'd like to see them and i can email you. Huge thanks to everyone for helping me out with this!

Rocket
04-27-2013, 02:15 AM
I have also been having this problem with my Armada's rear hatch lock actuator. It looks like the problem is rampant for all Armada vehicles. I would advise all of those people in this forum who read this message to file a SAFETY complaint with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). If enough Armada owners file a simple on-line complaint, this government organization will see that it is a safety problem, and may follow up with an investigation, leading to a recall, and Nissan's fixing of this defective part. Remember, this is a safety issue. If you were ever in an accident and/or if your vehicle ever caught fire, and your child was an occupant in the back seat, anyone outside of the vehicle would not be able to open this door to pull your child out. I would advise anyone filing this simple complaint form to specify this in the complaint details. Head to the following site to file a complaint on this safety issue, in the hopes that we can get this problem recalled:

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/VehicleComplaint/index.xhtml

keith03054
07-11-2013, 10:07 AM
I ran into this problem last weekend, found this link and performed the fixed outlined, worked like a charm. Thank you to everyone for the information. :D

tysonmax
08-08-2013, 03:33 PM
I love this forum...this is the 3rd problem I've been able to find a fix for on my '05 Armada.

pacificguy
10-24-2013, 02:53 AM
I have a 2004 Armada SE with the same problem. Went to the stealership and they wanted $110 to diagnose problem, then the total went to ~ $450.00 to fix and they didn't have the parts and wanted to keep the SUV for 5-6 days while I rented a car at $45 per day. Thank you for helping me understanding the costs of parts and sharing how easy the repair can be. I found the below link to help with finding part numbers.
https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/nissan/part/USA/TA60/905
My helping in return.