: Rear Diff Change
SykoArmada 06-07-2005, 02:31 AM I know there was a topic as to what gear lube to put in your rear diff.
I was wondering if anyone changed it themselves or paid to have it done. I am planning to do it myself and I was wondering if any issues popped up before I start.
Looks like pull the drain plug, let it run, and refill up to the fill hole until it comes out.
Thanks
Syko
armoody 06-07-2005, 02:50 AM Looks like it is about that simple. I am also thinking about changing out motor oil to Mobil 1 and diff. to a synthetic also. Just picked up Service Manual CD on ebay 10 bucks!
SykoArmada 06-07-2005, 08:48 AM Thanks,
I already switched to Mobil 1 5W-30 in the engine. I will be changing to Mobil 1 80W-90 in the rear diff. I use a K&N brand oil filter. $9.00 is kind of steep for an oil filter, but how much is a new engine? Just something to think about.
I think I have to invest in one of the service manuals.
Syko
04 Nissan Armada SE
Off Road
Big Tow
Journey Package
315 70 R17 BFGoodrich A/T K/O
changezi 06-07-2005, 06:08 PM I know there was a topic as to what gear lube to put in your rear diff.
I was wondering if anyone changed it themselves or paid to have it done. I am planning to do it myself and I was wondering if any issues popped up before I start.
Looks like pull the drain plug, let it run, and refill up to the fill hole until it comes out.
Thanks
Syko
It is very difficult to pour gear oil directly from the bottle into the diff. You may want to buy some adapter for gear oil to pour the oil in the diff. I ended up buying an adpater which will fit the gear oil container on one end and the other end is about 1 1/2 foot plastic pipe but it still took a lot of time to pour the oil in the diff. I read on TT or CT that there are some kind of Pumps available to tranfer the oil. I will look for those next time. I used 75-140 Super tech from Wall mart. you may also need to use Nissan recommended thread sealant which I purchased from Auto zone for about $18.
SykoArmada 06-08-2005, 08:38 AM What's the name of the thread sealer that Nissan recommends? Or can I use a Loc-tite brand thread sealer.
Thanks
Syko
David 06-08-2005, 01:16 PM I changed the oil in my rear diff yesterday. My rig has just done 3000 miles. The oil drained out looked a little skubbier that I thought it would - so I figure the $10 for new oil was money well spent.
I put Havoline Durablend (semi-synthetic) in. Would have used fully synthetic but my local Auto Zone didn't have any in the right grade (80w90).
A couple of comments have appeared on the site about thread sealant. There wasn't any on the plugs I took out. Both plugs have a sealing washer on them like the engine sump plug - so I didn't put any sealant on when they went back. No leaks evident overnight.
I got the oil into the diff using the plastic bottles it came in - didn't need any additional equipment.
AKmada 06-08-2005, 07:19 PM Well you guys are all talking about rear diff's but my main problem with this mada has been the front diff and axle it has broken 2 time no off roading aor towing of any kind has been done with this vehicle. It i currently at the service department now but I have already contacted nissan on the lemmon law. I have also had brake judder auto roll up and bad cabin booming, want to unload this and get an 05.
changezi 06-08-2005, 11:28 PM What's the name of the thread sealer that Nissan recommends? Or can I use a Loc-tite brand thread sealer.
Thanks
Syko
There is one OEM listed that I dont have the part number right now. They also listed an equivalent permatex 56521.
armoody 06-09-2005, 12:56 AM Nissan part # 999MP -AM002P
"Use High Performance Thread sealer or equivilent"
I would think you could use any appropriate thread sealer available at your autoparts store.
If I pull the plugs and have washers like David notes and no sealant trace I'll skip it too.
AZARMADA 06-09-2005, 10:26 AM JUst had mine changed out yesterday at the dealer. $99.00. For me it is worth it just to let them do it. :schla24:
Cillyone 06-10-2005, 01:36 AM If you have a gear lube hand pump that fits in a gallon container the job is a piece of cake, it takes about 10 min and about $8 of lube. It is 4 times easier than changing motor/oil/filter.
AZARMADA 06-10-2005, 10:32 AM I knew it had to be easy, after all the dealer only charged $99 (lol). Well at least they put the new brake fix on at 3,000 miles. It was just the 1st time I mentioned the juder.
SykoArmada 06-10-2005, 01:08 PM What type of gear lube do you use? I used Penzoil 80W-90 API GL-5 multi-purpose. This said I didn't have to use any additives for our limited slip rearends so I tried it.
Thanks
Syko
Cillyone 06-11-2005, 12:12 AM I currently have the same Penzoil in mine, but I buy any major brand GL-5 that is on sale. The Armada does not have a differential type limited slip; it is an open differential, no need for additives. The “limited slip” is done with the (VDC) brakes; the brake is applied to the spinning wheel.
Correction: the proper acyoynom is "ABLS" Active Brake Limited-slip Differential
Cillyone 06-12-2005, 11:36 AM Just changed F&R diff gear oil for 3rd time and the oil I drained out looked much better than the 1st and 2nd and with very little crud on magnet.
SykoArmada 06-12-2005, 01:37 PM I found the drain for the front diff, but where is the fill point. I haven't gotten my service CD yet so I am still learning on this vehicle.
Thanks
Syko
Cillyone 06-13-2005, 12:07 AM Remove the small skid plate near diff. Just loosen the front two bolts (skid plate slotted) and remove the two in the rear and slide plate off. The fill hole is up on the passenger side of diff. My plugs required just the 3/8” square drive of a socket extension to remove them. You need a little more than a gallon to do both F&R.
SykoArmada 06-13-2005, 05:05 AM Thanks Cillyone,
I'll crawl under again tomorrow and see what I find.
Syko
Remove the small skid plate near diff. Just loosen the front two bolts (skid plate slotted) and remove the two in the rear and slide plate off. The fill hole is up on the passenger side of diff. My plugs required just the 3/8” square drive of a socket extension to remove them. You need a little more than a gallon to do both F&R.
Are you sure your drain plugs are 3/8" square drive? My Rear diff drain plugs are both 10mm allen wrench. Just curious if Nissan is putting on different drain plugs on different Armadas?
Cillyone 06-14-2005, 12:08 PM Yep, 10mm allen hex in rear and 3/8" square in front, go figure.
HA! What's up with that? Anyway, I'm still trying to get that Permatex thread sealer. I can not find it anywhere. #56521
changezi 06-14-2005, 09:57 PM Here is the link if you would like to buy online
http://permatex.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/42263/56521
Here is the link if you would like to buy online
http://permatex.carshopinc.com/product_info.php/products_id/42263/56521
Thanks, just oredered it. Ran just under $20 shipped to my house.
armoody 06-17-2005, 03:39 AM Posted a pic on the Syn Oil thread, just because that is where I asked my original queston, but thought it appropriate to cross reference here. Shows how nasty rear diff fluid looks @ 2950 miles.
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1221&page=2&pp=10
I just changed my rear diff today at 8,700 miles for the first time. The oil was pure black, and looked like it was breaking down already. I don't tow either.
I think it needs to be changed a lot more than I thought. Seriously, maybe everytime the engine oil is changed.
Mobil One Synthetic was $18 per quart so I bought Castrol Synthetic blend at $6 per quart(need 2 quarts for rear diff) The pump cost $6 and the 10mm allen wrench socket was $6.
It was really easy. The drain plugs weren't that tight, and there was no sealant on the thread. Took 10 minutes.
Didn't even need a jack. Just crawled underneath the back and had plenty of room to work.
If you have over 5-6k miles, you better change your diff oil!
Cillyone 06-18-2005, 09:40 AM I have done mine three times so far (every 3k) and the oil is pretty nice now. But that first one, YUK! There is no need for sealant on rear, it uses a washer/machined surface type to seal. The front is a internal thread like a pipe plug which requires sealant.
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