Leaking auto load-leveling suspension...help! [Archive] - Nissan Armada Forum: Armada & Infiniti QX56 Forums

: Leaking auto load-leveling suspension...help!


Schwa72
11-23-2008, 04:32 PM
I've had my '08 Armada since July 2007. I bought the truck in Utah, and as soon as the weather started getting cold (November - December 2007), my load-leveling suspension wouldn't hold pressure. Every time I'd start the truck I could hear the compressor pumping the back end of the truck up, and when I'd turn the truck off, the rear end would slowly deflate until it was definitely very, very low. I'd start the truck again, the rear end would re-inflate, and the cycle would start over again. The colder the outside temperature, the faster the leak. At first it'd take around an hour or so before it'd go completely flat, but as it got really cold outside (30's and lower), the leak got so back that you could hear the air actually leak out of the suspension. Anyway, I took the truck to the dealer about three times, and after consulting with the engineers at Nissan, the dealer replaced practically every major component in the air suspension system. This seemed to fix the problem for the remainder of last winter and up through this summer.

I've since moved to Ohio, and now that the weather is getting cold again, the damned leak is back. Whenever I go out to the truck I can see that the rear end is sagging. I know this shouldn't be happening because in the summer there is no such leak. I tow stuff periodically so I can't have the rear suspension constantly going on the fritz...it has the potential to be a safety issue (handling, etc).

Now that I have to start the repair cycle over again with my Ohio dealer, I'd sure like to start them off with a clue as to how to fix this once and for all. Has anyone experienced the same problem? I searched the forums but couldn't find anything.

TIA!

BlakSpyda
11-23-2008, 06:38 PM
Welcome to CA Schwa72!

That sucks that you have the problem, but sucks more that it is a repeat offender. I have done some searching too and have only found one entry by lmntguy typical to yours here on the forum.
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10900
There was no evidence of a resolution for his either. No one has posted further comments. I just hope that the dealer in Ohio can get it done and repaired with finality.

Good luck.

Schwa72
11-23-2008, 06:47 PM
That's for the reply, BlakSpyda! I posted in that other thread to see if the other folks who've noticed the problem (two in that thread) ever got a resolution.

Pops
11-23-2008, 08:12 PM
Seems to me it's not a leak. Sounds more like a faulty "Height Sensor" or "Control Unit" to me. I'd ask them to replace them again.

Schwa72
11-23-2008, 08:29 PM
Seems to me it's not a leak. Sounds more like a faulty "Height Sensor" or "Control Unit" to me. I'd ask them to replace them again.

Why doesn't sound like a leak? The air leaks out when the truck is turned off, so the Height Sensor or Control Unit wouldn't even be working at that time, right? The suspension pumps itself up again once the truck is on and it realizes the suspension is low; to me, that indicates that the Height Sensor/Control Unit/whatever would be working okay.

scr38
11-23-2008, 11:58 PM
Mix some dish washing soap in water and put in a spray bottle . After shutting off the engine spray the liquid on the compresser/tank assembly, on all the air lines and the shocks. You should be able to find the leak by looking for the bubbles.

Rumplecat
11-24-2008, 12:06 AM
I have a '04 Armada and mine has been doing this for the 6 months and I have looked at everything and have not been able to resolve why it is doing this but it is very annoying when I go to tow something now every thirty min i have to pull over to the side of the road and turn off the engine and turn back on to let it air back up again. I am out of warranty so i am trying to self diagnose so I can fix the problem my self. If i can't i guess it is off to the dealer I go :(.

Schwa72
11-24-2008, 06:16 AM
If there are other folks out there who are having the problem, I highly recommend you contact your dealer and/or Nissan about it. As pervasive as it's been on my truck, I just can't imagine that it's that isolated of a problem...yet the engineers at Nissan (according to my Utah dealer) seemed to have never heard of it. My point is that if more people complain, the more likely it is that a TSB will be issued so we can get a "real" fix.

It can be a tough problem to notice unless you're looking for it. When I first noticed it, the truck happened to be running and I was shoveling my driveway when I heard the compressor run twice within the span of 10 minutes. I knew that something was wrong, but I'd never noticed the problem prior to that.

Rumplecat
11-27-2008, 11:15 AM
Well I went and I put soapy water on the rear suspension including the compressor on the back where the hoses were coming out and the bottom hoses is leaking from the quick connect. The hose is good it is just the quick connect that went bad. Is there a replace that i can get for the quick connect? The dealer said now and I would have to buy a new compressor from them at $335.00. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
James G.

CdnInAz
11-27-2008, 11:28 AM
bottom hoses is leaking from the quick connect ... have to buy a new compressor from them at $335ouch - take a look at this diagram (http://www.courtesyparts.com/armada-ta60-2004-2008/genuine-nissan-parts/axle-suspension/432-suspension-control/-c-1063_1064_1147_1152.html) Can you pick off the part that is leaking? Looks like there are a couple of separate part numbers for air connectors attached to the compressor. Note that the whole compressor assembly is only $256, and hopefully you don't need all that, so you can definitely do better than $335.
PS, I've learned about that site and their great part schematics while reading Bob's (Pops) posts :bow:

AAMC
12-23-2008, 02:38 PM
My '08 LE is doing it. Going to the dealer. My old '05 LE didn't.

Schwa72
12-24-2008, 12:36 AM
Funny you should mention this...I just dropped mine off at the dealer this evening to have it worked on again. They're going to replace the compressor because they think a valve in there is sticking open. We'll see; God knows my dealer in Utah replaced damned near everything else.

Darwood
01-17-2009, 11:51 AM
I am NEW here.

Searched the web and found this thread because I have the same problem. I bought my 2007 Armada LE in April of 2008. I had yet to see any cold weather. In December when we had the first real cold spell I go out and the rear of my SUV is way down. Figured out the air was gone from my suspension.
Called the dealer and they told me to bring it over. That night did a search and found this thread. Okay the next day the weather warmed way up and I take to dealer. When I get there the thing is not leaking. I ask them if they had heard of this "cold weather problem" before and they were like Noooo..
So its not leaking, and there we sit. They want to charge me $90 for a "diagnostic" because my warranty is out by like 800 miles. I said No because it wasn't leaking. So now I drive for nearly a month with no problems and then wallah, it gets really cold down to 0 degrees. No AIR AGAIN! I am reluctant to take to dealer because they don't have a freakin clue about this and I am now 200o miles over warranty.

If someone knows a fix for this, PLEASE HELP!!!!! :bow:

rydndrt
01-18-2009, 09:23 PM
my 06 has leaks around the fitting that go into the rear air shocks themselves . there is the black air suppy line that has a plastic tube in it about 2 inches long that slips into a fitting on the shock itself what can i do?

Rumplecat
01-18-2009, 11:36 PM
my 06 has leaks around the fitting that go into the rear air shocks themselves . there is the black air suppy line that has a plastic tube in it about 2 inches long that slips into a fitting on the shock itself what can i do?

I just put some sealant around the fitting. I can take it off if i ever need to replace the shocks.

rydndrt
01-19-2009, 12:13 AM
is there any way to get the fitting out of the shock an replace it i do alot of towing an cant afford another bad weekend.

Rumplecat
01-19-2009, 12:54 AM
I dunno about the shock quick connect but I have taken the ones out of the back of the compressor. You could try.

Pops
01-19-2009, 10:04 AM
I'd go down to the local Nissan Parts Department and have them show me their parts diagrams before I touched anything. Courtesy Parts' online does not get into that much detail but the Parts Depts can usually narrow them down fairly well.

Rumplecat
01-19-2009, 10:37 AM
The dealership does not sell the quick connects. I have been there and he told me to go to a big rig store and see if they have one.

Schwa72
01-19-2009, 01:39 PM
Just an update for you guys. My truck's now been to the dealership three times in Ohio for this problem. The dealer has replaced the compressor but the leak still persists. The next step is that they want to hang on to the truck for two days to run some tests in conjunction with help from the Nissan Tech Line and they'll see how to proceed. I'm tempted to bring a print out of this thread to them so they can see this is a somewhat widespread problem. I have a funny feeling that there are a lot more folks out there with the problem but just don't notice it.

ericchile
01-19-2009, 05:33 PM
Schwa72 I am in Utah and I believe I am experiencing the same thing with my 2008 SE with 6k on it....
Which Utah dealership were you taking it to?

Pops
01-19-2009, 05:55 PM
my 06 has leaks around the fitting that go into the rear air shocks themselves . there is the black air suppy line that has a plastic tube in it about 2 inches long that slips into a fitting on the shock itself what can i do?
Could you just use a small screw-clamp or zip-tie on it to clamp the hose onto the fitting???

SDak
01-19-2009, 06:57 PM
I thought this was normal for the compressor to run on and off from time to time. I have noticed mine looking a little low in the rear a few times but figured it was just my eyes so I didnt give it a second thought. Mine seems to run when I pull the gas cap off also so I figured the computer was telling it to compensate for the fuel that was about to get added. Now I am thinking that I may have a problem and No I usually dont leave it running when I fuel up only when it is subzero.

Rumplecat
01-19-2009, 11:02 PM
Yea I am at a loss. I replaced both hoses and now it does not leak from the hoses on the compressor or the shocks but I am still some how loosing air. When I tow it will air up and then all of the air is gone about two miles down the road. I have looked at the shocks and they have no cracks and I have spayed them with soapy water and no suds and the compressor does not leak either. But when I do not have a load and travel for about 120 miles/2 hours it only loses about a quarter of an inch on the rear. Is they away that it is electronically telling the compressor to purge the air? Where on the compressor does it purge the excess air after taking off a load? Any help is appreciated.

Pops
01-19-2009, 11:24 PM
I think there's a control module in the engine compartment somewhere maybe on the passenger side near the battery. Maybe a faulty height sensor sending a signal it's too high when it's really not???

Schwa72
01-20-2009, 03:21 AM
Schwa72 I am in Utah and I believe I am experiencing the same thing with my 2008 SE with 6k on it....
Which Utah dealership were you taking it to?
I took it to Ken Garff Nissan in Ogden. I took it to them at least four times last year and I'd be willing to bet they'd remember that they worked on it. Call 'em and ask for Zack or Casey (Zack's the service department manager, Casey was the service writer who I dealt with). PM me if you want more info.

I honestly think that the more people who take these vehicles to their dealers for service the sooner Nissan come out with a real solution. I bet this problem is more widespread than they (or we) realize, and it's a bear to get fixed.

SDak
01-20-2009, 09:53 AM
What is everyones stock clearance from the rear tire to the wheel well? It might help me and others determine if we have the same problem.

ericchile
01-21-2009, 12:26 AM
What is everyones stock clearance from the rear tire to the wheel well? It might help me and others determine if we have the same problem.

I was wondering that myself. I figured I have the issue because I can't get the width of my hand between the tire on the rear but I can on the front with no load at all.

Schwa72
01-21-2009, 01:56 AM
I was wondering that myself. I figured I have the issue because I can't get the width of my hand between the tire on the rear but I can on the front with no load at all.
Sounds to me like you have the problem. An easy way to tell is to start your truck and let it idle for about 30 seconds to a minute. If the rear end is "flat," you should hear the compressor run within that time frame. Take a look at the wheel clearance after the compressor shuts off. You should EASILY be able to fit the width of your hand in there; in fact, when the rear suspension is properly inflated, the rear wheel/fender clearance is about the same as the front wheel/fender clearance. After the rear end inflates, go for a short drive, or turn the car off, and wait for about 10 minutes. Depending on the severity of your leak, you'll notice that the rear wheel clearance severely decreases.

If it's fairly cold out, you can even let the truck idle and you'll still notice the rear end start to sag after several minutes. In fact, that's how I first noticed I had the problem last winter...I was shoveling my driveway with the truck idling and I heard the compressor run three times within the course of about 10-15 minutes.

Rumplecat
01-21-2009, 09:12 AM
Sounds to me like you have the problem. An easy way to tell is to start your truck and let it idle for about 30 seconds to a minute. If the rear end is "flat," you should hear the compressor run within that time frame. Take a look at the wheel clearance after the compressor shuts off. You should EASILY be able to fit the width of your hand in there; in fact, when the rear suspension is properly inflated, the rear wheel/fender clearance is about the same as the front wheel/fender clearance. After the rear end inflates, go for a short drive, or turn the car off, and wait for about 10 minutes. Depending on the severity of your leak, you'll notice that the rear wheel clearance severely decreases.

If it's fairly cold out, you can even let the truck idle and you'll still notice the rear end start to sag after several minutes. In fact, that's how I first noticed I had the problem last winter...I was shoveling my driveway with the truck idling and I heard the compressor run three times within the course of about 10-15 minutes.

That's my exact problem right now. But when I tow all of the air is gone about after a 2mile drive.

Pops
01-21-2009, 09:39 AM
I was wondering that myself. I figured I have the issue because I can't get the width of my hand between the tire on the rear but I can on the front with no load at all.

They should be very close to the same.

SDak
01-21-2009, 06:39 PM
I measured mine this morning and it is about 5 inches of clearance in the rear with about 5.25 in the front. Seems pretty close but it has also been very warm here and it seems the cold affects this problem more. By the way I have stock 20's with about 8000 miles on them.

scr38
01-21-2009, 10:10 PM
Attached is a drawing showing the correct heights for the front and rear.

SDak
01-22-2009, 12:18 AM
So according to this diagram my rear is off by 3/4 of an inch. would that mean that I have a problem? My front is right on but my rear measures 3/4 of an inch lower (full of fuel and no additional load)

scr38
01-22-2009, 12:28 AM
You can adjust the rear height sensor to correct that.

rydndrt
01-22-2009, 12:34 AM
after a trip to the dealership , they told me that the only parts the could change were the airlines first because they where the cheapest part. or the next thing would be to change the air shock itself. not.. by the way mine where leaking at the shock itself where the airline plugs into the shock. they say there are no parts listed to work on besides the lines or shock. so not wanting to spend 800.00 on things that where not broken i decided to take a look at it myself. armed with some simple tools an a bottle of soapy water i dug in . first remove the tire ,them spray the line down an you will see where the leaks are coming from . mine where coming from thefitting on the shock itself. so all i did was pressed the fitting foward an pulled back on the line at the same time to unhook it. then take some neddle nose plyers an gentle pull out the brass fitting. then take a hook pick an remove the o ring from inside of the shock , its really small. a trip to the parts store an 2 dollars later the problem was fixed . the stock o rings where flattened out on mine an when it was cold they leak , but when warm they swell an seal. i could not beleive they could not figure this out at the dealer ship. the whole thing took me less than 1 hr from start to finish . if someone else has an questions on this fix pm me an i ll try to explain it better.

Pops
01-22-2009, 09:37 AM
Maybe someone can get some pics with a new How-To posted sometime. This maybe something that more of us run into later.

rydndrt
01-22-2009, 09:50 AM
sure i ll seewhat i can do on the pics

SDak
01-22-2009, 09:51 AM
You can adjust the rear height sensor to correct that.

Sorry I am not very mechanically inclined so how do I access the rear height sensor or is it something I can do through the computer on the touch screen?

scr38
01-22-2009, 11:34 AM
Sorry I am not very mechanically inclined so how do I access the rear height sensor or is it something I can do through the computer on the touch screen?
The sensor is located behind the rear axle, on the driver side. You can adjust it to change ride height.
There are two ways to adjust; by loosening the mounting screws and rotating the sensor, and by changing the length of the connecting link.
To raise the rear position you loosen the jam nuts on the link. Pop one off and turn the end of the link to make it longer. Replace the link and tighten the jam nuts.
Or you can loosen the mounting screws, rotate the sensor body CCW to raise the rear.
You will have to drive the vehicle a little for the system to adjust to the new position.
See attachment.

SDak
01-22-2009, 12:57 PM
Thank You! This site and the members on it have been a great asset. Hopefully someday I can contribute some knowledge as I learn more about our Armadas.

Darwood
01-24-2009, 08:48 PM
About a week ago it got really cold and down went the air in the shocks of my 2007 LE. 2 days ago it warms up and guess what?? Its working fine now!! This is the craziest thing i have ever seen. Nissan should be issuing a RECALL on this whole crappy air system!!!!

SDak
01-25-2009, 02:40 PM
I just scheduled an appointment with my dealer in 2 weeks and told him about the problem and he just looked at me with a blank stare like he didnt have a clue what I was talking about. He acted like he didnt even know that there was an air suspension in the Armada. Not to confidence inspiring.

Rumplecat
01-25-2009, 03:03 PM
I just scheduled an appointment with my dealer in 2 weeks and told him about the problem and he just looked at me with a blank stare like he didnt have a clue what I was talking about. He acted like he didnt even know that there was an air suspension in the Armada. Not to confidence inspiring.

I get the same blank stare when I talk about it to my Nissan Mechanic/supervisor.

Schwa72
01-26-2009, 01:51 AM
I just scheduled an appointment with my dealer in 2 weeks and told him about the problem and he just looked at me with a blank stare like he didnt have a clue what I was talking about. He acted like he didnt even know that there was an air suspension in the Armada. Not to confidence inspiring.
Get ready for a long battle. It's good that you're taking it in, though...the more folks who visit their dealer for this problem the more likely Nissan will acknowledge that there's a real issue.

What I'm concerned about is that I'll be SOL when my truck goes out of warranty in 13K miles. Then what?

Darwood
01-26-2009, 06:43 PM
ALRIGHT!!!! I just took it upon myself to get serious about this, get down under the truck and find this problem. I am so tired of ignorant service managers, mechanics, and all the people who you deal with at the Nissan dealership. It took me about 3 minutes to find the culprit. Backed my SUV out of the garage, started it and let it air up. Now it's about 28 degrees outside, so it is at the leaking stage. Pulled back in the garage, got down with a soapy spray bottle and a light and started looking. Checked out the compressor lines to start with and saw no leaks. Moved on to the shocks and inspected the rubber of the airbags and found no problems. Then, being unable to spray my soapy water on to the air shock lines without removing the wheels, I decided to just visually inspect them. With a slight wiggle of the air line that connects to the shock, you could hear the rush of air with very minimal movement. I suspect that during cold weather all of the materials contract and make the leak worse & more noticeable. Now what to do? This problem was obviously already there before my vehicle was out of warranty. But now have 38,500 miles on it and there is no way that they will stand behind this problem especially when they can't figure it out themselves. I am tempted to say the hell with the whole problem, buy new shocks & put new connectors and use my factory compressor system.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

FRUSTRATED.....:mad: :crikey:

scr38
01-26-2009, 08:49 PM
ALRIGHT!!!! I just took it upon myself to get serious about this, get down under the truck and find this problem. I am so tired of ignorant service managers, mechanics, and all the people who you deal with at the Nissan dealership. It took me about 3 minutes to find the culprit. Backed my SUV out of the garage, started it and let it air up. Now it's about 28 degrees outside, so it is at the leaking stage. Pulled back in the garage, got down with a soapy spray bottle and a light and started looking. Checked out the compressor lines to start with and saw no leaks. Moved on to the shocks and inspected the rubber of the airbags and found no problems. Then, being unable to spray my soapy water on to the air shock lines without removing the wheels, I decided to just visually inspect them. With a slight wiggle of the air line that connects to the shock, you could hear the rush of air with very minimal movement. I suspect that during cold weather all of the materials contract and make the leak worse & more noticeable. Now what to do? This problem was obviously already there before my vehicle was out of warranty. But now have 38,500 miles on it and there is no way that they will stand behind this problem especially when they can't figure it out themselves. I am tempted to say the hell with the whole problem, buy new shocks & put new connectors and use my factory compressor system.

I'm not sure what I'm going to do.

FRUSTRATED.....:mad: :crikey:
Have you read post #36 in this thread?

Darwood
01-27-2009, 12:02 AM
after a trip to the dealership , they told me that the only parts the could change were the airlines first because they where the cheapest part. or the next thing would be to change the air shock itself. not.. by the way mine where leaking at the shock itself where the airline plugs into the shock. they say there are no parts listed to work on besides the lines or shock. so not wanting to spend 800.00 on things that where not broken i decided to take a look at it myself. armed with some simple tools an a bottle of soapy water i dug in . first remove the tire ,them spray the line down an you will see where the leaks are coming from . mine where coming from thefitting on the shock itself. so all i did was pressed the fitting foward an pulled back on the line at the same time to unhook it. then take some neddle nose plyers an gentle pull out the brass fitting. then take a hook pick an remove the o ring from inside of the shock , its really small. a trip to the parts store an 2 dollars later the problem was fixed . the stock o rings where flattened out on mine an when it was cold they leak , but when warm they swell an seal. i could not beleive they could not figure this out at the dealer ship. the whole thing took me less than 1 hr from start to finish . if someone else has an questions on this fix pm me an i ll try to explain it better.

Wow!! Obviously I didn't. Thanks so much for posting this "rydndrt".

If you have any info you would like to add please do so.

rydndrt
01-28-2009, 12:50 AM
I m off to my nissan dealer to get the fuel guage / pump an sending unit changed out an will inform the about what i did to fix my air ride . then after i get back from denver this weekend i will post some pics of how to fix this problem for less than a dollar, an a spray bottle with some soapy water . if you can change a tire than u can do this fix.

Darwood
01-28-2009, 02:25 PM
Well I will tell you one thing! This message board just became my new best friend.

I decided yesterday i had had enough. So put the SUV in the garage and started to work. "rydndrt" your instructions were Great. After getting the O-ring out I was off to find a match. Well I tried several parts stores and the closest match i found was actually ACE Hardware. But i think the diameter of the old ring is slightly larger. But i changed them anyway. And guess what--- My shocks still have air today and are holding. I did a soapy spray test after installation and the left was fine. However the right one there was an ever-so-slight bubble that appeared. i was almost tempted to put 2 orings in to take up the space but didnt. Wasnt sure if that would work. The leak must be really minimal though because for the first time in a long time i had air the next morning.

In the future i am going to go to a specialty rubber and gasket shop we have near me and see about purchasing a slightly thicker o-ring. I am sure this will come up again. But in the mean time THANKS FOR THE FIX!!!!!!!!!:bow:

Darwood
01-28-2009, 02:26 PM
Oh, I forgot. I have the same fuel guage problem not going all the way to full on a fill up sometimes. But I am gonna say to hell with it. I ain't gonna fool with that dealer NMORE than I have to.

Rumplecat
01-28-2009, 03:02 PM
I m off to my nissan dealer to get the fuel guage / pump an sending unit changed out an will inform the about what i did to fix my air ride . then after i get back from denver this weekend i will post some pics of how to fix this problem for less than a dollar, an a spray bottle with some soapy water . if you can change a tire than u can do this fix.

Thank you!

ericchile
02-03-2009, 10:15 PM
I wonder if rydndrt posts a How To will my dealer all of a sudden get a TSB to fix this??? Does Nissan read these?

Jokers_Mada
02-05-2009, 10:52 PM
Very interesting guys. i am looking tom @ an 05 armada and will diff. pay attn to this. Have the o-rings seem to be the major culprit in this? Any one come up with a size for these as to what you need to look for or just match away?

Darwood
02-13-2009, 05:22 PM
Very interesting guys. i am looking tom @ an 05 armada and will diff. pay attn to this. Have the o-rings seem to be the major culprit in this? Any one come up with a size for these as to what you need to look for or just match away?

Just to follow-up. I took my O-rings out and matched them at ACE Harware. I don't believe the new ones were quite as thick as the old but, so far I haven't had my shocks go down even once. Even in the cold weather. So I am happy.:awesome:

Rumplecat
02-13-2009, 07:38 PM
Just to follow-up. I took my O-rings out and matched them at ACE Harware. I don't believe the new ones were quite as thick as the old but, so far I haven't had my shocks go down even once. Even in the cold weather. So I am happy.:awesome:

How easy is this to do? I just don't want mess it up? Any help is appreciated!

Schwa72
02-25-2009, 08:26 PM
Just a update on the (lack of) progress I'm making to get my leaking suspension fixed. Anyway, my truck's been at the dealer twice in the last month for this issue. The first time, they replaced a relay because it had actually crapped out from the compressor running so often. That obviously didn't fix the leak. This last time they replaced all of the compressor lines. The mechanic said he left it overnight, checked it the next morning, and it hadn't lost any air, but I brought the truck home this evening and it looks to me like it's still losing air, although slower than before. However, it is almost 60 degrees outside, so I suspect that overnight or over the weekend once the temperature drops the leak will be back in full force.

Incidentally, the mechanic downloaded the codes while the truck was in the shop and it had thrown a code for the compressor running too frequently (or something like that).

The good news is that the mechanic has a great attitude and is actually interested in getting to the bottom of this. He's already acknowledged that the next thing that'll need to be replaced is the shocks; given that's where most folks noticed the leak occurring I bet that'll fix it...until next winter. He did mention that if the truck is still leaking that he's going to get back on the phone with Nissan tech line to tell them what's going on.

If, over this weekend, I've verified that it is indeed still leaking, I will pass on to the service writer and the mechanic that most folks on the forum have found the source of the leak between the shock and the air line. Heck, I'll probably even print out this forum threat. This info will hopefully get passed on to Nissan, and with any luck they'll institute a TSB for a long-term fix. I'm pretty sure that my shocks were already replaced once last winter, so I'll be going on my third set.

I'll keep you guys posted. Keep the faith!

Pops
02-25-2009, 10:28 PM
I just finished looking at my connections that are directly on the shocks and they leak air when I wiggle them.

I'm gonna see if I can't find a part # for those O-Rings that Rydndrt replaced, and if not then off to ACE I go and I'll make sure it's reported to the Service Dept here if it hasn't been already.

Jaggernaut
02-25-2009, 10:31 PM
Now almost all of us have this problem...They should have a recall on this matter...mine is leaking too during cold weather. I'm thinking that if I roll some layers of electrical tape over that joint between the shocks and the airtube, will it hold and stop the airleak? I think I'll gonna try tomorrow if it is possible. Its because I've done this before on the fox airshock of my cannondale mountain bike and its been two years now and the electrical tape is still holding well between that airhose and the shocks given that my airshock has 240psi pressure in it.One thing more, I tied 2 small zipties on the 2 edges of the electrical tape that I rolled out to cover that leaking joint.

Jaggernaut
03-01-2009, 02:26 AM
its still pumping in the morning..and no matter how hard I trace the air leak from all the joints and fittings I can't find anything with the soapsuds sprayed on all the joints/fittings concerning the airtube/compressor/airshock. i still rolled some layers of VE-33 super duty electrical tape but there's no leak on that part.I'm starting to believe that maybe its normal..when air cools it contracts..that's why it drops down a little bit..I'll still research on this matter.

Schwa72
03-02-2009, 06:41 PM
its still pumping in the morning..and no matter how hard I trace the air leak from all the joints and fittings I can't find anything with the soapsuds sprayed on all the joints/fittings concerning the airtube/compressor/airshock. i still rolled some layers of VE-33 super duty electrical tape but there's no leak on that part.I'm starting to believe that maybe its normal..when air cools it contracts..that's why it drops down a little bit..I'll still research on this matter.
Mine doesn't drop down a little bit, it goes completely flat. And, like I said, the tech at the Nissan dealer said that my compressor has forced the computer to throw a code on two separate occasions. The technician is convinced it's not normal, which is nice because I don't have to fight with them every time I take the truck back.

SDak
03-25-2009, 11:47 PM
Anyone make any progress on this as I am convinced my dealer is stupid. It is now happening even when it is not cold out. Any body have any part #'s for the o rings as I guess I will have to do this myself because the dealer cant seem to find an issue even as I let it idle at the service dept. and the compressor kicks on about every 3 minutes. What a bunch of idiots. Any help or pics would be a great help, thanks.

Pops
03-25-2009, 11:58 PM
I was told mine are normal. I went and pushed one in on a 2009 LE that was sitting on the lot and sure enough, it seemed to do the same. So, I lowered my height adjustment last night back down 1-rotation and it seems to be back to normal now. Looks like I just had it still set a little too high after having removed the PRG mini-lift spacers. <go figure> :rolleyes:

Armadapower
03-26-2009, 05:33 AM
It does not sound like a leak, it sound like the solenoid does not what to function like it suppose to do.

Rumplecat
03-26-2009, 10:25 AM
I have narrowed mine down to the solenoid not working When I move the height sensor I can make the rear end come up to 37.5 in and when I move it back to the lowest setting it will never release the air like it did before. So My guess is that it is stuck but just enough to where air under pressure can escape rather easily.

Pops
03-26-2009, 10:46 AM
Do you hear a faint click sound while laying under there within the first 60 secs of lowering the sensor setting James???

Rumplecat
03-26-2009, 01:09 PM
No click. It does click when the sensor is turned to the highest setting and it will go up no problem but It will not release the air when I put the sensor to the lowest setting. It used to let the air out and level, like it is supposed to when the load was off. But now it just keeps the air in the shocks and gradually loses the air over time.

Pops
03-26-2009, 01:15 PM
It could be the release solenoid gone bad but keep in mind that it could also be the control module that's in the engine compartment. I would think the control module would affect the whole thing but don't know for sure.

Rumplecat
03-26-2009, 01:18 PM
It could be the release solenoid gone bad but keep in mind that it could also be the control module that's in the engine compartment. I would think the control module would affect the whole thing but don't know for sure.

I am thinking it is the exhaust solenoid going bad. Which means new compressor right? There's a module in the engine compartment? I thought it was in the cabin. I dunno.

Pops
03-26-2009, 01:27 PM
I think the control module is in the engine bay but I'm not sure. It could be in the passenger side dash, I guess. I haven't found it yet but I'm thinking the exhaust solenoid is part of the compressor assembly.

Rumplecat
03-26-2009, 01:56 PM
SCR38 told me that the solenoid was on the back of the compressor. I am not to sure of the control module either.

sdk
06-29-2009, 01:51 AM
The last post was a while ago, so I am not sure if this thread is still alive.

I have been fighting this same problem for the last few years, and may have finally got it licked.

All the things I have been reading on this thread are so familiar... the leaks at the shock connections, the problems with the dealerships, the cold weather behavior. This weekend I got into the compressor itself and found no less that two leaks, which I actually managed to fix (so it seems, so far so good) with no special tools.

We tow a 7000# trailer, and let me tell you, when that air system is flat, it is white-knuckle driving. It got to the point where I was having my wife pull/re-insert the fuse (fuse #12 just to the right of the glove box if you are interested) every 5 minutes to reset the suspension computer so that it would give me 3 more minutes of air.

I'd like to share my learnings with trying to get this system working. I took some pictures, etc. Other than this little (but very significant) defect, we love the truck.

More posts to follow...

Rumplecat
06-29-2009, 12:17 PM
cant wait for the follow up! Thanks in advance!

BlakSpyda
06-29-2009, 03:53 PM
Welcome to CA sdk!

:thumbup: Outstanding first post. Keep us informed. Many members have this problem and I am sure are interested in a permanent solution.

sdk
06-30-2009, 12:22 AM
I had been scanning the web for over a year (it was Feb'08 when we first noticed a problem) and was really surprised to find absolutely nothing relating to this problem. I was excited to finally discover this thread; I felt somehow vindicated that I was not the only one after all.

I have been watching a lot of Armadas around, taking note of how their stance. I think a lot of people have this problem and don't know it.

Anyhow, in the posts there seems to be a bit of confusion as to how the system works and where the components are located. I'll go over what I know here.

- A lot of information is available in the Armada service manual, which I found online without too much effort. Section RSU talks about the rear suspension.
- The suspension control unit is located below the driver's side rear quarter window. Good luck getting the lower luggage side finisher removed without busting a bunch of clips. I never had to get at mine.
- The power relay for the compressor is located right next to the battery under the hood. The fuse powering the compressor is rated at 30A.
- The fuse powering the control unit (and a bunch of other components unfortunately) is fuse number 12 located in the fuse block just to the right of the glove box. The service manual details the other components that are protected by this fuse, so you will likely loose some stuff when pulling this fuse. Based on my experience, the truck still stays fully drivable with this fuse pulled (steering / engine / transmission / brakes, etc all functional).
- The height sensor is attached to the driver's side rear suspension linkage. A small 10mm bolt can be detached to allow you to 'fake' suspension travel while testing. Moving the sensor linkage up will cause the computer to think the truck is too low, turning on the compressor. Moving the sensor linkage down will cause the computer to think the truck is too high, opening the vent valve.
- The compressor / exhaust valve assembly is located just to the left of the spare tire underneath the vehicle. This component can be accessed / serviced without removing it from the vehicle. Lower the spare tire and push it out of the way. Remove the 3 rearmost plastic clips (carefully if you intend to reuse them!) connecting the protective rubber boot to the frame. Pull the boot forward and out of the way (it is very dusty / dirty!!! Make sure there are no open components nearby). This gives you full access to the compressor / exhaust valve components without needing to actually remove it from the vehicle. The first time I went to look at the compressor, I actually removed it completely... I would like to get those 2 hours of my life back.
- Two plastic hoses go from the compressor unit to the air shocks. The pressure in the two air shocks is equalized in the compressor to ensure a level (but flat) ride.
- A rubbery hose exits the top of the compressor / exhaust valve assembly at the front and appears to connect to the frame. You will need to remove the rearward plastic panel in the driver's side wheel well to gain access to this connection. This is the breather / exhaust hose. The hose can be disconnected from the frame without much difficulty. If you do disconnect it, make sure it stays clean; you want to avoid getting dirt to get into the compressor. If you think your vent valve is leaking, dip the hose into a cup of water (ignition off - you don't want to suck water into the compressor if it starts unexpectedly) and look for bubbles. This is one of the few parts of my air system which has not leaked yet.
- The air shocks themselves are pretty straightforward. You need to remove the rear wheel and take out the plastic access panel to get in there. Make sure you jack up the vehicle under the coil spring, not the ball joint. In my case, the plastic hoses entering the air shock rubbed up against the rigid brake lines. Up here in Canada, these plastic air lines get rock hard in wintertime at -40DegC. Movement in the suspension while driving in these conditions will focus a lot of stress right at the connection point at the air shock. This is a bad design in my opinion. The air lines should not touch anything so that they can move freely. As per an earlier poster's recommendations, I went to replace the O-rings in the air shocks and got my first look at how this connection really works. As far as I can tell, a good connection depends a lot on how 'smooth' that little plastic pipe that inserts into the shock is. The O-ring seals against this surface. Movement of the plastic pipe within the connection will cause scratches & imperfections. Once the plastic pipes are damaged, getting a good seal will be very difficult if not impossible. I was unable to find a suitable replacement O-ring, so I reinstalled it in 'reverse'. That seemed to fix the leak at the shock, however the system was still loosing air.
- The service manual details a series of diagnostics and monitoring functions that the control unit performs.
- C1801 - Vehicle height sensor - If the sensor voltage is out of whack. This can happen while you have the linkage disconnected and move the sensor too far. You will be wondering why nothing is happening.
- C1802 - Compressor relay - The relay is on when the control unit wants if off and vise versa. Shouldn't happen unless you are trying to jumper the compressor relay out because you are tired of starting / stopping the engine all the time.
- C1803 - Exhaust solenoid - Same as C1802, except for exhaust solenoid. Shouldn't happen.
- C1804 - Vehicle height adjusting trouble - Compressor on for more than 120seconds (2 minutes) continuous
- C1805 - Vehicle height adjusting trouble - Exhaust on for more than 120 seconds (2 minutes) continuous
- C1806 - Vehicle height sensor locking trouble - height sensor voltage variation +/-0.02V for more than 100 hours..... ? Sounds like a general 'cannot lock on!' fault.
- C1807 - Sensor 5V trouble - Shouldn't happen due to an air leak.
- C1808 - Integral time trouble supplying air - Compressor time exceeds 180 time over a period.
- In my experience, any of these faults will cause the system to stop working. This is why, if you have a significant leak, that you start the engine, the compressor runs for 2-3minutes and stops and won't run again until you restart the engine (or remove/reinsert fuse #12), even though your suspension is flat.
- Also, none of these faults will drive the CK SUSP light on the dash. Removing fuse #12 will though!

Generally speaking, the troubleshooting process involves the following:
- removing the 10mm bolt on the height sensor and tucking the linkage on top of the suspension member to give a false 'low, pump me up!' signal to the control unit.
- Start the ignition and let the compressor pump things up. Allow the system to become sufficiently charged. Don't go crazy, you don't want to overpressure. With the sensor linkage removed it will pump for 2-3 minutes before it times out. With the bags completely flat this is fine in my experience, be cautious if the system is already charged to some extent.
- Turn off the ignition. It will be easier to spot leaks in peace and quiet.
- Grab some soapy water, an old toothbrush and go leak hunting.
- If you are like me, you will find leaks in some or all of the following locations:
-- At the air shock connections where the plastic tubes enter the shocks
-- At the compressor connections where the plastic tubes enter the compressor (actually, these connections have been good so far for me)
-- Along the outside perimeter of the cylindrical component where the plastic tubes enter the compressor unit. I don't know what this component is exactly, it appears to be some kind of muffler / filter / charge tank. It is also difficult to explain the location of the leak in words (a picture would be handy here). It is kinda like a cup on its side with a lid that screws on top. Right where the plastic hoses attach, you can see the hex where you could grab it and tighten the lid if you had a wrench big enough. In either case, it is heavier than you might think, is made of plastic and looks expensive to replace so be careful with it. I found the leak in mine just by luck by some dripping bubbles while I was testing the plastic hose connections. I will discuss how I fixed this problem in a future post. I suspect this leak developed over time due to vibration from the compressor itself.
-- Where the cylindrical component connects to the compressor pump body. You will need to retract the protective rubber boot to check this one. I may have inadvertently caused this leak when I removed the cylindrical unit. I will never know for sure since I didn't even know this connection point existed until I had the compressor unit completely removed from the vehicle. Turns out you don't need to do that... just pop out the 3 clips and pull back the protective rubber boot.

Enough background info, I have some tricks / techniques that I will post on to deal with each one of these leaks (except if you have a leak where the plastic hoses enter the compressor, that one would be tough to fix).

(I am surprised how long it takes to write this up! I hope it will help to solve this problem once and for all for all the Armada lovers out there with this problem)

Schwa72
06-30-2009, 08:20 AM
I wonder...is there an aftermarket system available that will perform the same function as this poorly-designed factory system? I've had my entire air suspension system replaced twice under warranty and I have absolutely no faith that it's going to hold up over the long term. Right now, in fact, there are no leaks...but my exhaust valve squeals like mad when the system judges that the ride height is too high and it releases air. I wish I would've pressed for a lemon law vehicle while I was still within my first year of ownership, although it's pretty clear that a new vehicle would've likely had the same issues. The thing is...I love the truck, other than this one issue (which is pretty significant since I got this particular truck to tow a boat and this feature was a consideration in my purchasing decision)!

sdk
07-02-2009, 01:25 AM
Here is the way I fixed the leak at the connections to the air shocks.

http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7891&stc=1&d=1246512240

The parts you need are:
- 5/16" ID, 7/16" OD vinyl tubing (1/2" length per air shock)
- 3/8" ID, 1/2" OD vinyl tubing (2" length per air shock)
- 1/2"-19/32" Fuel Injection Clamp (1 or 2 per air shock, depending on what type of sealant you use)
- Sealant options:
-- none
-- silicone seal
-- adhesive sealant (I used a product available at Canadian Tire called "Amazing Goop Contact Adhesive and Sealant")

The tools you need are:
- A tubing cutting tool to ensure nice square cuts. I used a tool I had to cut pex tubing for household plumbing tasks.
- A grinder or file to take the edge off of the vinyl tubing. Not essential but it makes it a lot easier.
- toothpicks (to spread the adhesive / sealant inside the tubing)
- screwdrivers / pliers.

This is my 3rd iteration of this fix. First I did it without sealant and 2 clamps per air shock (one at the shock connection and the other at the plastic hose end). To get a good seal I needed to tighten the clamps quite a bit. I continued to have problems so I suspected that a sealant was required (my problem may in fact have been the compressor).

The second time I used silicone seal. This was a bad idea 1) it was messy, 2) it ended up acting like a lubricant and the vinyl tube eventually slipped off the air shock.

The third and final solution was to use a flexible adhesive / sealant. It took about 30minutes per side to install and I haven't had a leak yet.

Note that this solution does not fix the actual problem, it just puts a seal around the failing seal.

The procedure:
1) Jack up the suspension and remove the wheel.
2) Remove the forward plastic finishing panel in the wheel well to gain good access to the air shock.
3) Vent as much air from the air system as possible by fooling the height sensor (take out 10mm bolt, lower the sensor arm and start engine. Exhaust valve should open to vent. Not all air will vent)
4) Clean the area as best you can.
5) Remove hose from air shock. Push orange collar towards shock using flat blade screwdriver or other suitable tool. Pull hose out. Take care not to damage the white pipe inside the plastic hose. Remaining air will exhaust.
6) Take 5/16"ID,7/16"OD hose and cut a 1/2" length. Bevel one side (using file / grinder) such that the larger hose can slip over it more easily.
7) Slip clamp over plastic hose and push it up along the line so that it is not in the way. You can use some tape to hold it if required. (slide over 2 clamps if you are not using adhesive sealant)
7) Dip toothpick in sealant and spread inside hose. You will need to move quickly before it starts to skin over.
8) Slide the hose over the plastic tubing, being careful not to get sealant on the little white pipe. The beveled side should be facing the air shock.
9) Cut the 3/8"ID,1/2"OD larger hose to the correct length. Hold the plastic tubing in its final position to help eyeball the length that is required.
10) Dip toothpick in sealant and spread inside the hose. Slide the tubing over the shorter tube, taking care not to get sealant on the white pipe.
11) Quickly reinstall the assembly on the air shock. The white pipe will slide inside the shock as per usual, the 1/2"OD hose will slide over the air shock connection. Push it on as far as it will go.
12) Slide the clamp(s) over the air shock and tighten.
13) The adhesive I used required 24hrs to dry according to the label, however with the thin film used it seemed to dry much faster (a few minutes).
14) Once dry, charge the system and test with soapy water.

That's it!

sdk
07-03-2009, 12:46 AM
This is how I found & fixed the two leaks in the compressor.

I recommend you remove the spare tire and remove the three clips shown here:

http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7892&stc=1&d=1246596075

And pull the protective rubber boot back to expose the compressor's components.

Make sure the system is charged with air and prepare a soap & water solution.

Using the soapy solution and a toothbrush, check for leaks at the location shown by the yellow line shown here:

http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7893&stc=1&d=1246596075

(You should also check for leaks where the two plastic hoses that head out to the air shocks connect. I never had a leak at this location)

Turn and face the compressor unit from the right side and check for leaks where the black tank connects to the compressor pump. I don't have a picture of this unfortunately. The purpose of this is twofold: 1) to check for leaks, and 2) to clean the area in case you need to remove the black tank.

If you found a leak in either location, you will need to remove the black tank:
1) Let as much air as you can out of the system by disconnecting the height sensor linkage and faking a high level.
2) Remove the two plastic air hoses by pushing on the orange rings with a screwdriver or suitable tool and pulling on the hoses. Take care not to damage the little white pipes. Let the air out.
3) Unscrew the phillips screw shown in the here:
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7894&stc=1&d=1246596075
You might need a stubby screwdriver.
4) Gently turn the black tank clockwise until it releases. (1/4 turn or so).

If a leak was found in the first check, try to tighten the 'lid' of the black tank. I simply used a vise to snug up to the flats and tightend as so:
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7896&stc=1&d=1246596075

Before reinstalling the tank, clean the connection to the compressor pump. Take the orange O-ring out
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7897&stc=1&d=1246596075
clean it, and clean all mating surfaces.

I had leaks in both locations and a simple tightening and cleaning fixed it right up.

Good luck!

mtgbiker
01-04-2010, 05:58 PM
SDK,
Excellent information and contribution to this thread. Much appreciated !

SDak
01-04-2010, 10:36 PM
I am not much of a handy man with this stuff and would prefer the dealership fix the issue but they always say they cant duplicate the issue. Imagine that I tell them it happens when it is cold out mostly so what do they do, pull it inside, let it sit in an 80 degree shop for an hour while they finish the other vehicles and get to mine and viola, no leaks. No kidding idiots. This has happened 3 times to me. I drag them outside to show them a flat suspension so they take it inside. I cant blame them for not wanting to work in 10 degree weather but oh well we all do things we dont like. Sorry to rant but this damn suspension is ruining the joy of having this otherwise awesome truck.

Schwa72
01-05-2010, 08:19 AM
My truck is currently in the shop for the leak. Again. This is the third of three winters where they're going to replace the entire air suspension sub-assembly. It'll probably keep the system functioning for the remainder of the winter, but when next winter rolls around, I'm 100% convinced the system will fail again at which point I'm out of warranty.

My dealer is very sympathetic to this issue; in fact, I've had the same tech work on the truck every time I've brought it in for this issue, but it seems he just can't get Nissan Tech Line to come up with a "real" fix for the issue.

Once my truck is returned to me I'll take a detailed look at what was replaced and see if there's any possibility that the issue has been fixed permanently. If not, I'm going to start making some noise up the customer relations-side of the house to see how Nissan plans to handle this long-term.

As it stands right now, I need to pick up a 6000 lb boat/trailer from being winterized and I refuse to do it with a failed suspension system. Not to sound overly dramatic, but I refuse to put my safety at risk because of Nissan's ineptitude.

sdk
01-07-2010, 12:55 PM
I don't blame you at all for not wanting to tow with the rear suspension being flat; it is a frightening experience.

I don't know if the patches I did are still holding, but I know that I now have new leaks.

Last summer I installed a kit from Air Lift http://www.airliftcompany.com/al1000.html

Installed pretty easy (2hrs?), was relatively cheap (~ $150CAD including shipping, etc) and inflates with a bike pump in 2 minutes. This allowed me to get through the summer.

Now in the winter I have noticed again that things look a little flat.

At some point in the summer I went over the scales and I was over the Armada's GAWR on the rear by about 200kg. :eek: I had to dump some water from the trailer to bring things back to within limits. This situation made me consider why things were failing. Perhaps this is not the right vehicle for towing a 6500# toy hauler. :(

It is a super-handy vehicle otherwise. It's a shame this system is causing so much trouble. Our warranty is up at the end of this month. I have gone around the loop with the dealership twice on this with nothing but frustration.

finaritwo
01-12-2010, 11:32 AM
contact the lemon law people and get your issues registered before your warranty expires. keep track of all your paper work and make copies of everything!! you'll be surprised at how much a few calls to the dealership from these people wake them up......

TJ Armada
01-13-2010, 10:06 PM
Just went through this 2x with my 06 mada. There is now a TSB and different part# (different Engineering Change #, I am sure). The new part will be installed tomorrow. I will post the part numbers from the receipt. Be persistant!!

BlakSpyda
01-13-2010, 11:00 PM
Welcome to the club TJ Armada!

Schwa72
01-14-2010, 04:38 PM
contact the lemon law people and get your issues registered before your warranty expires. keep track of all your paper work and make copies of everything!! you'll be surprised at how much a few calls to the dealership from these people wake them up......

Do you have any details on the TSB (number, title, etc)?

TJ Armada
01-28-2010, 02:37 PM
The dealer did not list a TSB:-(. The invoice states'Per Nissan tech line the shocks we just replaced have to be replaced again with updated parts. part# are 53545-7S600 and 56200-ZC01B. I am not sure if these were the tech id numbers or TSBs but there are two numbers NJ45AA and NJ41AA.
They have held air for 2 weeks now and we have had temperatures ranging from 11 - 39 degrees.

Schwa72
02-04-2010, 11:19 PM
So, after much back-and-forth between me, my dealer, and Nissan, and after four complete replacements of the air shocks and air lines on my Armada, Nissan agreed to extend the warranty on the "steering, suspension, and brakes" to 7 years/100,000 miles.

My truck was last repaired about two weeks ago, and it's still holding air. However, I've been through this before. My experience has been that it'll do okay through the remainder of the winter, through the summer and fall, but once the first extended freeze hits next winter, it'll break again.

Oh well. 7 years/100,000 miles should get me through to the point where I'll replace the vehicle anyway.

Jokers_Mada
02-08-2010, 03:51 PM
Just figured I would speak up as well after whats my susp. has been doing. It is flat every morning and after I drive to the store lets say. When I start it up it runs for a min or two and shuts off. But this is after everytime I run it and I will be towing here again soon so need to get this fixed from what I am gathering reading the threads here.

*Well I found out this evening that my compressor is running but shocks not filling up. i spray soapy water and saw no leaks, however, when I moved the wiggled th 2 black hoses at the rear of the comp, bubbles would form which leads me to believe that the compressor is pumping air but is it enough? is there a diagram on here that shows air flow direction that would aid in troubleshooting this? Anyone else had this problem/have a fix? Thanks

SDak
02-08-2010, 05:28 PM
Just had mine replaced and they stated that it was running but not pressuring up. Still goes down overnight but seems to hold any other time and only takes a fraction of the time to fill up as before it would never completly fill. This has been so frustrating and I hope mine is fixed but I am not holding my breath. I actually think that these may be designed to deflate over time if not running because I looked at 3 of the 2010's on the lot when I picked mine back up and they were deflated as well. Maybe this just affects all of them!!

Jokers_Mada
02-08-2010, 08:29 PM
So who has a schematic/diagram for this system? Maybe SCR? Do I need to re-tighten all the assembly points of the compressor? (Thanks SDK for your writeup!!) I had no bubbles tonight when I sprayed it. Is there a valve in it somewhere? What tells the compressor to shut off? Simple setup but need to know what I am working with here as a picture does wonders!

** got a hold of a service manual. will troubleshoot soon as weather and time allows.

TJ Armada
02-10-2010, 11:09 AM
Just reporting back. It has now been a month in very cold Michigan weather. The suspension has not had to cycle at all. They have remained full for 30 days. The leak was at the hose connection to the shock. Once they had leaked enough to cause the compressor to cycle enough, the compressor broke (new shocks and lines - compressor ran, but the did not fill). Now that mine is off warranty, if it breaks again, i will be looking for some aftermarket replacements.

Jokers_Mada
02-10-2010, 01:12 PM
Just found out today as well, my compressor runs but doesn't fill or compress the air. Has ran since I picked this up a year or so ago and convinced it never worked from the get go. Very frustrating as there is a list of things wrong aside from this. This is very simple to check though. Remove the lines at the rear turn vehicle on. I have a call in to Nissan but i don't think that will do anything. Actively looking for a replacement. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

Pops
02-10-2010, 02:04 PM
..... Actively looking for a replacement. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
If mine go bad, I'll be looking into using this to replace the failed parts. - lol :D

http://www.airbagit.com/product-p/towkit-nissan.htm

http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15214&page=5


FWIW: http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-53175.html

Jokers_Mada
02-10-2010, 02:53 PM
Thanks pops...So this set up would replace the existing springs( judging from what I have read) and the shocks would remain as normal, right? How hard is it to pull the springs out on these? I am pretty sure I have all the tools including spring compressors!

Pops
02-10-2010, 03:23 PM
You don't need a spring compressor. Just pull the bolt to disconnect the lower coil bucket arm from the spindle and the spring comes right out, it's really easy.

You will need to replace the shocks with some regular shock replacements from PRG or Shock Warehouse.

Honestly, those bags are what I really, really want but can't afford to do right now. I'd be thrilled to sell you my shocks and compressor for $350 shipped so I could start building on those air springs instead, but I don't think that'd be fair to you because those air springs with that compressor is a much better setup IMHO.

Jokers_Mada
02-11-2010, 01:56 PM
Contacted the dealer and they want $370 for a new air pump while courtesyparts.com wants $241. Has any one dealt with courtesy before?

This to me replacing the air pump/compressor is the cheaper way (yes cheaper is not always better) but plug and play vs redoing the complete system (bag it and new shocks ). Considering I may not be keeping this vehicle long than a year, I may just replace the pump if courtesy is a legit company.

I do appreciate the help fellas. Thanks!

Pops
02-11-2010, 02:02 PM
Yea, they're good and so is Scott @ Fontana Nissan. FWIW, Courtesy is owned by http://www.group1auto.com/ and most local dealers owned under that group can match their prices.

Seriously, you can have my compressor + shocks for $350 shipped if you want them. I'd love to start on that bag it project. :D

Jokers_Mada
02-11-2010, 05:07 PM
Thanks Pops, but I don't need the shocks as mine work just fine. I just didn't want to buy the bag it setup and new shocks as well when I can just purchase the part thats broke to fix it. But $241 compared to local dealer cost $370, I will go with courtesy for sure!

SVO4Turbo
04-01-2010, 09:49 PM
Thought I'd weigh in with my issue as well. Here's the process. 1. Start Truck. 2. Compressor kicks in... Truck lifts. 3. As pressure builds, I can actually hear the air leaking out of the system. 4. Pump stops and the rest of the air leaks out.

While it's leaking, if I reach my hand behind the top cylindrical thing inside the protective boot where the pump is and run my fingers around whatever plugs into the back, i can change the sound of the leaking so I'm confident it's coming from there.

Oh yeah... when did it start? Over the winter...had some good -20 to -30 weather.

SVO4Turbo
04-02-2010, 12:36 AM
Thought I'd weigh in with my issue as well. Here's the process. 1. Start Truck. 2. Compressor kicks in... Truck lifts. 3. As pressure builds, I can actually hear the air leaking out of the system. 4. Pump stops and the rest of the air leaks out.

While it's leaking, if I reach my hand behind the top cylindrical thing inside the protective boot where the pump is and run my fingers around whatever plugs into the back, i can change the sound of the leaking so I'm confident it's coming from there.

Oh yeah... when did it start? Over the winter...had some good -20 to -30 weather.

Well, I think I found my issue. On that little black air tank above the pump, there is a sleeve in the back where it seats into a metal thing. The reason you turn the air tank clockwise 1/4 turn to take it out is because there are two black nubs on the air tank that when turned, will seat the tank into that metal piece. On mine, the nubs had broken likely due to cold and vibration, and prevented it from seating fully. I cleaned the seal, conditioned the o ring, and seated it back in with a little super silacone to help with the seal. While pressing in pretty hard, I then screwed it back into the pump.. Hopefully this does the trick. Not impressed with the quality of equipment used here. Really like my Armada, but this particular portion doesn't impress me, and with the amount of issues I see on this thread, I hope other problems don't pop up. I use my mada to tow a lot, and not having any air in the rear suspension is a real safety hazard. Suprised nobody has killed themselves when towing because of this.

So, hopefully this one is solved. Now, on to brakes and rotors!

Thanks All.

SVO4Turbo
05-21-2010, 06:46 PM
Could someone please tell me which fuse number12 is in the box? What's it labeled? Thanks

SVO4Turbo
05-22-2010, 11:24 PM
Hello? Anyone? Bueheler.......Bueheler..... :)

SVO4Turbo
05-22-2010, 11:25 PM
Hello? Anyone know this one? Bueheler....bueheler........ :)

scr38
05-23-2010, 10:49 AM
See attachment

SVO4Turbo
05-23-2010, 03:26 PM
See attachment

You are my new favorite person!! Thank you!!

sdk
05-26-2010, 06:54 PM
Hello! Interesting to read SVO4Turbo's experience. Basically the same as mine.

I cleaned up the same area as he described... Seemed to fix the problem... until the next leak showed up.

In my case, no matter what I fixed, a leak popped up somewhere else. Ultimately, the leaks were in places I couldn't easily fix.

I ended up putting in supplimental air bags from Air Lift; that got me by for a season. Still, the Armada air suspension would eventually go flat and the drive would be a white-knuckler. The Air-Lift system didn't seem to have any problems holding air, but it only pumps up to around 30psi or so. I think the Armada air system's pressure is significantly higher.

My solution was to pick up a Dodge 3500 mega cab diesel. Problem solved.

Good luck everyone.

Jokers_Mada
05-26-2010, 09:40 PM
My solution was to pick up a Dodge 3500 mega cab diesel. Problem solved.

Good luck everyone.

Nice I like that idea!!

Jokers_Mada
05-26-2010, 09:41 PM
Anyone have a control unit go bad?

SVO4Turbo
05-26-2010, 10:23 PM
Just thought I'd update. The fix I posted earlier works temporarily when not towing, but there must still be leaks elsewhere in the system, because after a few minutes towing my camper, the rear is completely flat. And I do mean completely. I hit a series of bumps on the interstate while towing my camper last weekend, and it was so severe that I thought I blew a tire or something. I literally pulled over to the side of the road to see what had gone wrong and that's when I discovered that everything was fine with my tires, but the suspension was completely flat. Let me tell you, that was a scary experience, and one I'm not looking to repeat.

The reason I was asking for fuse 12 location is so that I could have my wife pull it and reinsert while driving so that it would reinflate. That towing with no rear suspension is NO laughing matter.

I'm out of warranty as well, but I did have it into the dealer for this problem when it was under warranty and at the time the dealer said "unable to reproduce problem" or whatever. I'm taking it to Nissan directly.

Others have said this and I concur.....this particular problem is taking the joy out of what is otherwise the best most versitale vehicle I've ever owned.

Pops
05-27-2010, 11:15 AM
Just thought I'd update. The fix I posted earlier works temporarily when not towing, but there must still be leaks elsewhere in the system, because after a few minutes towing my camper, the rear is completely flat. And I do mean completely. I hit a series of bumps on the interstate while towing my camper last weekend, and it was so severe that I thought I blew a tire or something. I literally pulled over to the side of the road to see what had gone wrong and that's when I discovered that everything was fine with my tires, but the suspension was completely flat. Let me tell you, that was a scary experience, and one I'm not looking to repeat.

The reason I was asking for fuse 12 location is so that I could have my wife pull it and reinsert while driving so that it would reinflate. That towing with no rear suspension is NO laughing matter.

I'm out of warranty as well, but I did have it into the dealer for this problem when it was under warranty and at the time the dealer said "unable to reproduce problem" or whatever. I'm taking it to Nissan directly.

Others have said this and I concur.....this particular problem is taking the joy out of what is otherwise the best most versitale vehicle I've ever owned.

I sent you a PM for another possibility if you're interested... Just let me know.

Jokers_Mada
05-27-2010, 01:07 PM
Anyone know how to get this Bing crap off of here? Man its a pain when you're trying to read and you scroll over an underlined word!!!

Pops- that air bag it setup come with the compressor too?

Pops
05-27-2010, 02:11 PM
Anyone know how to get this Bing crap off of here? Man its a pain when you're trying to read and you scroll over an underlined word!!!

Pops- that air bag it setup come with the compressor too?

FWIW, the Premium Membership doesn't have those popups... Still alot of ad banners, but not the Bing junk...

I believe the compressor is included... !bluebear08! is the one who posted about it... He installed one on his non-Tow Armada and said it's great.

Jokers_Mada
05-27-2010, 03:05 PM
Thanks Pops. I called airbag it today and that quoted 470 for the setup with an air compressor. I just hate to replace the air comp without truly knowing that is the culprit. It runs only on start up with no air going into the lines and no more after that. I am second guessing myself that it may be the control unit. Kind of lost and don't have a lot of $$ to start remove and replacing things if ya know what i mean. Common sense tells me that if the compressor is running and not pumping air it would be the compressor, but who knows.

Pops
05-27-2010, 03:42 PM
Thanks Pops. I called airbag it today and that quoted 470 for the setup with an air compressor. ....

Whoever you talked to obviously told you the wrong price. It's clearly marked On Sale for $399.00 WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get) and the Compressor is in the pics.

http://www.airbagit.com/product-p/towkit-nissan.htm


The OEM Compressor is only $241.06: http://www.courtesyparts.com/53400m-compressor-assy-air-armada-ta60-2004-p-23570.html

scr38
05-27-2010, 08:16 PM
Anyone know how to get this Bing crap off of here? Man its a pain when you're trying to read and you scroll over an underlined word!!!



Look here:
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17150

This has been posted here several times.

Jokers_Mada
05-27-2010, 08:28 PM
thanks scr...you aome through once again! I appreciate it!!

express705
11-25-2010, 10:26 PM
bump for another member with a problem with air suspension. i don't think my compressor runs at all. my dealer told me to replace the height sensor assembly first.

suggestions? what should be my first step??

Pops
11-25-2010, 11:41 PM
I would start with checking the fuses first.

pizzaman
11-25-2010, 11:43 PM
Mine was not running at all either - after reading another thread on this site, I tried swapping the 2 relays mounted just in front of the battery. The one is for the compressor, the other I believe has something to do with the 4WD. They are identical but a little hard to get at (might be easier if you pull the battery). As soon as I switched them, started the truck and compressor fired up! Ordered a new relay from Nissan ($20) and so far so good! Sounds like I am lucky compared to most on this thread!

express705
11-26-2010, 12:08 AM
I would start with checking the fuses first.

you mean #12?

Mine was not running at all either - after reading another thread on this site, I tried swapping the 2 relays mounted just in front of the battery. The one is for the compressor, the other I believe has something to do with the 4WD. They are identical but a little hard to get at (might be easier if you pull the battery). As soon as I switched them, started the truck and compressor fired up! Ordered a new relay from Nissan ($20) and so far so good! Sounds like I am lucky compared to most on this thread!

so i should swap the 4wd relay for the compressor relay and see what happens?

pizzaman
11-27-2010, 12:14 AM
so i should swap the 4wd relay for the compressor relay and see what happens?[/QUOTE]

Worked for me - could be something else wrong though. I just about fell over when my compressor fired up!

PS600REVX
11-27-2010, 12:54 PM
Mine was not running at all either - after reading another thread on this site, I tried swapping the 2 relays mounted just in front of the battery. The one is for the compressor, the other I believe has something to do with the 4WD. They are identical but a little hard to get at (might be easier if you pull the battery). As soon as I switched them, started the truck and compressor fired up! Ordered a new relay from Nissan ($20) and so far so good! Sounds like I am lucky compared to most on this thread!

pizza, you will see if it is your only problem when you start pulling that TT any sort of distance. I had a compressor that ran and pumped up the system just fine but would kick on all the time. And when I pulled my TT (similar size as yours) the added weight would just sink me down to the wheel wells with my tires sticking straight out almost. It was a bad compressor exaust valve or something. New compressor works great and only turns on when I'm hauling or towing which is how it should be. Good luck.

pizzaman
12-02-2010, 11:19 PM
Good to know PS600 - guess I will find out in the spring for sure! I am having the leak problem in the cold weather so it could very well be a bad compressor or maybe those o-rings??? Guess I better get the soapy water out!

wonderlyeric
12-07-2010, 09:06 PM
I am having the same issue as in this thread. During the cold, i noticed the back end is about an inch lower than the front. Everytime I start the engine, the compressor comes on and brings it back up to level (or higher!). I have not yet checked to see if there is a leak, but I'm wondering if there is any chance this will be a recall item??

2008 LE 4x4
NAV/DVD

pizzaman
12-07-2010, 11:44 PM
I just replaced the o-rings in the shocks - was at the point where shocks were flat within 5 minutes of inflating. Happy to say they seem to be holding air now, even in 30 degree temps and a blizzard! Hopefully will hold for a while - I think next step is compressor replacement if this doesn't work.

wonderlyeric
12-08-2010, 01:59 AM
Thanks for the tip pizzaman. What O-rings did you use? I know other peoplein this thread said nissan doesn't sell them. Not sure if I'd want to use the same O-ring anyway. I think some people got them from Ace Hardware?

marctronixx
12-08-2010, 07:27 AM
if you car sits out in the air at night during this season the air itself could just be the issue.. kind of like how air in your tires expands when heated and compresses when cooled.. maybe this is what you are experiencing...

PS600REVX
12-08-2010, 09:53 AM
Definitely a cold issue. I have a new compressor and worked great never running unless truck loaded up until it turned cold here, consistently now in the 20's to low 30's. Now it runs every time I start the car and I believe some fitting somewhere, maybe the O-rings, retract when it is cold and cause a leak. More than just simple cold weather making the air retract similar to tires. Hey Pizza, so it is the o-rings where the air lines go into the shocks that you replaced?

scot0410
12-08-2010, 10:11 AM
if you car sits out in the air at night during this season the air itself could just be the issue.. kind of like how air in your tires expands when heated and compresses when cooled.. maybe this is what you are experiencing...

I don't think this would cause it. The temperature is seasonal. Summer temperatures fluctuate between day and night also with no issues to the suspension. In colder weather the rear fills up with cooler air which won't deflate overnight unless the air within the shocks heat up due to some type of friction while driving and then sits and cools.

Just my thoughts. :)

pizzaman
12-08-2010, 03:19 PM
I thought it might be the air temperature causing it too but dealer said it should still hold air. I was losing all air in shocks within 5 minutes of them fully inflating. So far, the new o-rings seem to have helped a lot. I still has to pump up a bit in the am but it is definitely holding air much better.
@wonderlyeric - I took the o - rings out and took old one to NAPA Auto Parts - they didn't have an exact match - slightly shallower in depth - but I tried what they had and it seems to be working. Just follow the instructions provided in this thread (#36 I believe). This won't guarantee a fix, but it definitely helped in my case!

pete
12-12-2010, 08:49 AM
09 Armada with 10k. Bought new and suspension worked fine for 21 months. Then it totally stopped. One dealer said it was fine, although NOT. Second dealer said not working and replaced the controller. Might add that first dealer used a car lift to test it, they said. At any rate, although it worked after controller replaced, it did fail one or two times intermittantly (strange,) and the system is now leaking badly! Can see it raise by about two - four inches when started and with -0- load. With 3k boat attached it raised OK but am terrified about safety while driving long distances. Live in GA with temps not in the 30's at night. Never did this before.

PS600REVX
12-13-2010, 10:44 AM
I'm pretty certain I am going with some brand of "normal shock" in the rear, I believe anything that fits an SE will work, and one of the brands of helper air bags, Firestone or the other one, come spring time.

primoV8
12-13-2010, 12:14 PM
Any shocks for the SE will work just fine. I almost went that route last year when I had trouble diagnosing why the auto rear wasn't working; eventually, it was just the relay and a less than a $30 fix.

pete
12-14-2010, 08:16 AM
Thanks for responses and suggestion of regular shocks. A real shame that dealer technicians are not trained and capable of fixing these issues. Even more of an issue is the system design and manufacturing itself. The suspension was one of the reasons I bought an Armada so that I could feel comfortable hauling my boat. Just the opposite has now happened.

As for dealers who are replacing parts. Give them credit for at least trying. First dealer I went to when suspension stoppped working completely simply said it was fine, "Have a Nice Day." Second dealer at least got it working so that the compressor turned on. Now with the leaks, a good thing. Wife says to trade the dam thing and get a Toyota Sequoia.

pete
12-14-2010, 08:42 AM
The suspension problems are a SEVERE SAFETY ISSUE if you have a self leveling suspension. If a heavy load is being towed and the suspension drops the towed load will become unstable and severe loss of control can occur. This will be true regardless of how fast the drop in height occurs because your trailer will not be level and the load distribution will not be correct for the trailer hitch. The Federal Government NITSA (?) needs to be alerted immediately!

blackmada04
12-14-2010, 02:35 PM
The leaking auto-level suspension isn't just a pain and un-safe while towing, try taking a corner faster than 5mph with NO AIR in your system. I've been battling the auto-level system gremlins for some time now. Started with tracing and the entire system, every component, wire, fuse, etc. Found a blown fusible link, replaced and still didn't work. Discovered the compressor was dead, replaced it and worked until the tire shop punctured the bladder on the passenger shock. Replaced both shocks - new compressor, new shocks, operated perfectly and leaked excessively. Found leaks at the hose connection to both shocks, both hose connections into the compressor, leak where dryer unit connects to the compressor, leak at the cap on the dryer. I replaced all the o-rings (both shocks, outlets in compressor and between dryer and compressor), pulled the dryer apart and sealed the cap to the body. STILL LEAKED. Globbed a pile of silicone over all the hose to component joints. STILL LEAKED. That was all over a year ago, now that is 15 degrees the system won't fill or hold air AT ALL.

Since i can't afford to buy the Air-Bag-it system, I'm going to pick up a set of Monroe Reflex shocks ($100) and Air-Lift 1000 air bag helper springs ($80) and remove the worthless auto-level "pain in the butt" system. We'll see how this "fix" works.

Pops
12-14-2010, 02:43 PM
..., I'm going to pick up a set of Monroe Reflex shocks ($100) and Air-Lift 1000 air bag helper springs ($80) and remove the worthless auto-level "pain in the butt" system. We'll see how this "fix" works.

I like that idea... Please keep us posted. :)

blackmada04
12-14-2010, 04:05 PM
Hey Pops,
Can you confirm my assumption that the springs on the Armada's with auto-level rear suspension are not the same as those without? It makes sense that the "air shocks" set the ride height, not the springs as on most vehicles, since my armada is dragging it's bumper. The only reason i'm considering adding the Air-Lift helpers is to set my ride height. I figure it's cheaper than new springs.

Pops
12-14-2010, 04:16 PM
I honestly don't know... I'd looked into it and never really found an answer... I'd like to know if plumbing the compressor into the AirLift bags will work.

Kooshtaka
12-14-2010, 05:39 PM
I'd be really interested to see if we can swap out the airbags but keep the compressor as well. :)

wonderlyeric
12-18-2010, 01:44 AM
So I looked at my system, and sure enough there is a leak at the connection to the airshocks. I plan to replace the O rings and see if that fixes it.

I can't belive there has not been a recall on this issue. I reported the problem to the NHTSA online, and I encourage everyone that owns an Armada with the auto leveling suspension to report the problem also. If enough people report the problem, it might start an investigation and lead to a recall.

The online form is simple to fill out, you do need your VIN number, it only takes about 10 minutes. Here is the link to the form:

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/Complaint.cfm

Please get the word out to all Armada owners so we can get this issue resolved!

scot0410
12-18-2010, 07:59 PM
So I looked at my system, and sure enough there is a leak at the connection to the airshocks. I plan to replace the O rings and see if that fixes it.

I can't belive there has not been a recall on this issue. I reported the problem to the NHTSA online, and I encourage everyone that owns an Armada with the auto leveling suspension to report the problem also. If enough people report the problem, it might start an investigation and lead to a recall.

The online form is simple to fill out, you do need your VIN number, it only takes about 10 minutes. Here is the link to the form:

https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/Complaint.cfm

Please get the word out to all Armada owners so we can get this issue resolved!

I just sent in my complaint for the rear auto leveling suspension. Thanks for the link wonderlyeric! I sure hope we get somewhere with this issue. It could be a dangerous problem.

wonderlyeric
12-18-2010, 08:29 PM
Thanks scot0410! I really hope EVERYONE with the auto suspension does this. It would be nice to make nissan come up with a solution and fix this rather than all of us spend time and money fixing it ourselves.

Sweepz
12-18-2010, 08:38 PM
I have been in to the dealer twice now for the same issue. It showed up when the weather fell below zero this fall and now my driver side air shock is always low. Next week, it is going in for new air shocks and air lines, that are the result of a TSB for cold weather states??? I don't have any details on part numbers or the TSB. I will post after the repairs are done and let you know the specifics.

scot0410
12-19-2010, 09:30 AM
I have been in to the dealer twice now for the same issue. It showed up when the weather fell below zero this fall and now my driver side air shock is always low. Next week, it is going in for new air shocks and air lines, that are the result of a TSB for cold weather states??? I don't have any details on part numbers or the TSB. I will post after the repairs are done and let you know the specifics.

This TSB would have to be something new. Please keep is posted Sweepz!

Schwa72
12-19-2010, 12:16 PM
I have been in to the dealer twice now for the same issue. It showed up when the weather fell below zero this fall and now my driver side air shock is always low. Next week, it is going in for new air shocks and air lines, that are the result of a TSB for cold weather states??? I don't have any details on part numbers or the TSB. I will post after the repairs are done and let you know the specifics.

Wow, that's interesting news about the TSB. It took 13 visits to two different dealers before I was able to convince Nissan to extend my rear suspension warranty to 7 years/100K miles. The only problem is that simply swapping components for new ones doesn't fix the problem long-term. There's a design issue, plain and simple.

Anyway, keep us posted about the TSB!

pete
12-20-2010, 11:39 AM
Have appointment tomorrow for dealer to replaced fittings on air shocks. Based upon all the posts about this issue do not hold out much hope of fix. But hope springs eternal. FEAR FOR MY SAFETY WHEN HAULING MY BOAT AND TRAILER.

Do know there are law firms that specialize in auto lawsuits regarding failure to honor warranty repairs and there are also various state lemon laws. Do believe the post that says this is a design defect and most probably one that involves the o rings and connectors. Am not an engineer and it would probably take one or more to figure out what the problem is. Think Nissan should pay anyone who wants to replace their defective suspension system with another brand that is compatible - if any exist out there.

Need to file NITSA complaint - Thank You for the link and address information. Am also considering contacting a lawyer who sent me an email regarding this issue. Will also probably file BBB complaint if this above repair does not fix the problem.

Glad about the extended warranty for the suspension that someone obtained from Nissan. However, if they do not know how to fix the problem, must wonder what good it will honestly do.....

MadaRich
12-20-2010, 11:23 PM
Thank god for this thread....I have been wondering about my suspension as well....because like many of you, my compressor is running on and off non-stop....and the rear looks like its just sitting flat. I'm in Maryland, and the weather here has been pretty cold, so I suspected that the air would deflate in the suspension, but apparently, I was completely wrong. I just got the armada about 3 weeks ago, so I actually have a warranty for a few more days. I'm gonna make the appointment tomorrow, and I hope I can explain to the mechanics that this problem is legit. If not, i'm gonna be a really, really angry person. I'll keep you all posted, and again, thanks for all the information this thread has given me. I feel like I have the upper hand going into the shop, which is always a good thing.

MadaRich
12-21-2010, 05:17 PM
Took my Armada into the dealership today to get the brake pedal and fuel sender recall fixed...done deal...but when I asked the assistant service manager about problems with the air-suspension, he gave me a blank stare, and said there is no such problem....hmmmmmm.... funny, I woke up this morning, went to the Armada, and it seems like the right rear was sagging about 1-1 1/2 inches more than the left. Started up the car, compressor ran immediately, and I watched the rear right raise up and "level" out. Well, guess I can't do anything until my service appointment next monday :mad: so the saga continues......:confused:

pete
12-22-2010, 07:54 AM
If possible, consider another dealer. Sounds like idiots are working where you are going. Just returned from 3rd dealer and they replaced both shocks and hoses for the same problem you are having. First dealer said there was nothing wrong with system when it failed to work at all. Second dealer did in fact fix another suspensions leveling problem with a controller replacement--they did a very good job. Nissan has issued a Technical Service Bulletin for this problem. If vehicle is brand new and your state has a lemmon law, do not hestitate to invoke it as soon as possible. Make absolutely certain you document the service tickets with the correct description of the problem. In Georgia on new vehicle the lemmon law allows a completely new vehicle if the problem is not fixed. Number of efforts to fix the same problem is 3 for non safety issues and less for safety related items. If you tow things, this is absolutely a safety issue. Sounds like your veh might be a used Armada and do not know what protections you might have in Maryland. Good Luck - System is definitely not right from your description.

pete
12-22-2010, 10:41 AM
Does anyone know what the wheelarch height should be for a 2009 2wd Armada with self level suspension and 20 inch wheels. The pdf file posted (thank you by the way) shows only 17 and 18 inch wheels. In addition, does anyone know what the allowable or acceptable difference between left and right side measurements should be, if any..

Had new shocks and airhoses installed by dealer yesterday. Had major air leaks. Now the passenger side is 1/2 inch to 3/4 of an inch lower than the driver side. Left (driver side) side arch measures 36 and 3/8inch. Compressor did not come right one this morning. Am not so sure it is a good or bad thing because of the above difference in heights. Am heading to to boat the hook-up and see what happens when loaded.

MadaRich
12-22-2010, 06:04 PM
If possible, consider another dealer. Sounds like idiots are working where you are going. Just returned from 3rd dealer and they replaced both shocks and hoses for the same problem you are having. First dealer said there was nothing wrong with system when it failed to work at all. Second dealer did in fact fix another suspensions leveling problem with a controller replacement--they did a very good job. Nissan has issued a Technical Service Bulletin for this problem. If vehicle is brand new and your state has a lemmon law, do not hestitate to invoke it as soon as possible. Make absolutely certain you document the service tickets with the correct description of the problem. In Georgia on new vehicle the lemmon law allows a completely new vehicle if the problem is not fixed. Number of efforts to fix the same problem is 3 for non safety issues and less for safety related items. If you tow things, this is absolutely a safety issue. Sounds like your veh might be a used Armada and do not know what protections you might have in Maryland. Good Luck - System is definitely not right from your description.

Thanks for the insight, I'm dropping off the vehicle on Monday, so hopefully there is light at the end of the tunnel.... As for now, started up the car this morning in 28 degree temp, and now the left side was sagging more than the right...and again, started up the car, and again...watched the sagging side go right back up to normal. When I got out of work at 300pm, it was 40 degrees out, and both sides were completely fine....looks like the weather is really confusing the armada....:confused:

PS600REVX
12-23-2010, 09:30 AM
Thanks for the insight, I'm dropping off the vehicle on Monday, so hopefully there is light at the end of the tunnel.... As for now, started up the car this morning in 28 degree temp, and now the left side was sagging more than the right...and again, started up the car, and again...watched the sagging side go right back up to normal. When I got out of work at 300pm, it was 40 degrees out, and both sides were completely fine....looks like the weather is really confusing the armada....:confused:

same type of issue here. If it's above 45 or so my compressor never runs. If under that it loses air and kicks on once or twice a day. I can live with this since I do most of my heavy towing in the summer but obviously when it's cold something is retracting and letting air out. Probably the fititngs where the hose meets the shocks.

MadaRich
12-29-2010, 10:34 AM
So.......of course the shop couldn't find anything...they said they left the car sitting for hours in the "service bay", and didn't see the drop/sagging. Of course, I said that because the room air temp was warm, there wouldn't be a sagging issue. Their reply... "......". My reply..."exactly". So......they are installing a new right rear air shock. I know thats not gonna fix the issue, but i'm not gonna say no to a new part free of charge. I told them about the "O" ring that was discussed earlier on this thread, but they didn't want to hear anything about it. So again, the saga continues....with a new rear air shock....

pete
12-30-2010, 08:54 AM
According to the last dealer who worked of my Armada, there is a Technical Service Bulletin with step by step instructions about how to deal with leaks in the suspension system. At any rate, they are supposed to check all connections with soapy water for leaks. When leaks were found on my own they replaced both shocks and connector hoses. So far the compressor has not been turning on with the lone exception of when I hooked the boat up to make sure it was still engaging correctly. First dealer visited was a joke (not laughing.) Worst car dealer ever visited as far as repair and diagnosis concerned. Past 2 have been pretty decent with one being excellent. Change dealers and go on a really cold morning. Day mine went to shop it pumped up after just several minus of being turned off. Temps that morning were around 20 degrees.

wonderlyeric
12-30-2010, 03:59 PM
So yesterday I took off both back tires and found leaks at the connection from the tubing to the airshock. I replaced both o-rings, and this morning it wasn't leaking! The compressor did not come on when I started it, and so far its holding. We'll see how long it lasts, but 96 cents at Ace Hardware is much better than a trip to the dealer!

Rumplecat
12-31-2010, 12:13 AM
So yesterday I took off both back tires and found leaks at the connection from the tubing to the airshock. I replaced both o-rings, and this morning it wasn't leaking! The compressor did not come on when I started it, and so far its holding. We'll see how long it lasts, but 96 cents at Ace Hardware is much better than a trip to the dealer!

What size of o ring did you get?

ericchile
12-31-2010, 11:37 AM
Pete, any chance you could call that dealer and get the TSB number? I will be taking mine in yet again next week.

pete
01-02-2011, 07:49 AM
As quoted from service order - spelling errors and all, "FOUND BULLITINNTB10-142. FOLLOWED IT AND SPRAYED SOAPY WATER ON HOSES GOIN INTO THE SHOCKS AND I SAW BUBBLES BOTH SIDES ARE LEAKING AT THE SHOCK. PER BULLETIN I REPLACED BOTH REAR SHOCKS AND AIR HOSES FROM COMPRESSOR TO SHOCKS..."

pete
01-02-2011, 07:52 AM
Hate to put jinx on self. However, have now checked suspension with and without a load on it. All seems well since replacement of shocks and hoses. Have also checked height with veh. on super level location. Height is within the tolerances shown in pdf file on dealing with suspension. Will check all one more time when temps are very cold.

dbal72
01-13-2011, 10:09 PM
I made an appt. for for my QX for the dealer to look at the leaky air suspension. We have had consistent temps in the 20's and now the compressor turns on ever time I start the truck and even sometimes if I am in a drive through. About 10 minutes and it is flat again. So I dropped it off today and asked how long he thought he would have my truck. He said he had already ordered new air hoses and shocks days earlier. Couple hours later he called and said truck is ready. They replaced all air hoses and the shocks under warranty. I have started the truck 5 other times today and even had it outside for 4 hours tonight in 18 degree weather and it is holding fine with no compressor running. I am still not thrilled though as I am sure this will only last for so many months. I find it funny that the advisor pre-ordered parts before even looking at it and then replaced everything right away. In other words...They know there is an issue but it has not become an "official recall" just a TSB. Crazy...

dbal72
01-27-2011, 10:28 AM
So days after the air lines and air shocks were replaced the leak came back. Not as quickly but still within an hour or so in cold weather. Took it back to the dealer and he questioned it and told me cold weather can do that. I told him it shouldn't that often. They ended up replacing the compressor as he admitted it was still leaking. Now it has been over a week and the temps have been from zero degrees at night to 32 degrees. Compressor has not run once and the truck sits at proper height. Finallly...The issue is solved. For now...:confused:

PS600REVX
01-27-2011, 11:56 AM
It's just a POS design. When you get it "fixed" it's just a matter of time before it starts leaking again. When it's below 30 I have just accepted the fact that the back end will sit 2 inches lower or so. I'm still waiting to hear from anybody who has replaced the auto-level with something aftermarket. I'm looking to get some brand of nice aftermarket shock in conjunction with firestone helper bags but am waiting to hear if anybody else has had any luck with a similar setup 1st.

MadaRich
01-29-2011, 07:55 AM
Like many of you, I had the air shocks changed... The suspension held for about 24-36 hours in the cold weather. When I came outside the next day, armada was sagging, once again, turned on the car, lifted right back up.... I agree PS600REVX, POS design... Or, aka...EPIC FAIL.

dbal72
01-29-2011, 09:39 AM
It has been six days in below freezing weather and still holding strong. I agree though MadaRich and others that it is a POS design. Great in theory but horrible in execution. I am sure it is a matter of days before it sags again. The new compressor is the only part underneath the rear of my truck that has no corrosion or rust! Ohh: MadaRich, you can come take some of our snow if you need some. We have plenty!:)

wonderlyeric
01-30-2011, 01:00 AM
Been 3 weeks since I replaced the O-rings in the shocks and it is still holding air. No leaks. Temps have been in the 30s and 40s. 97 cents at Ace Hardware. We'll see what happens when I put a load on it.

SVO4Turbo
03-04-2011, 06:23 PM
Just thought I'd update. The fix I posted earlier works temporarily when not towing, but there must still be leaks elsewhere in the system, because after a few minutes towing my camper, the rear is completely flat. And I do mean completely. I hit a series of bumps on the interstate while towing my camper last weekend, and it was so severe that I thought I blew a tire or something. I literally pulled over to the side of the road to see what had gone wrong and that's when I discovered that everything was fine with my tires, but the suspension was completely flat. Let me tell you, that was a scary experience, and one I'm not looking to repeat.

The reason I was asking for fuse 12 location is so that I could have my wife pull it and reinsert while driving so that it would reinflate. That towing with no rear suspension is NO laughing matter.

I'm out of warranty as well, but I did have it into the dealer for this problem when it was under warranty and at the time the dealer said "unable to reproduce problem" or whatever. I'm taking it to Nissan directly.

Others have said this and I concur.....this particular problem is taking the joy out of what is otherwise the best most versitale vehicle I've ever owned.

I was on today and decided to update this even though it's been some months ago. I worked with Nissan Consumer affairs and they put a whole new air pump assembly in, splitting the cost with the dealer, and no cost to me! It really doesn't hurt to ask! :)

hernamf
03-19-2011, 02:39 PM
My compressor isn't working at all. It quit working shortly after a snow storm here in the Midwest. There was a lot of deep snow on the ground. I'm assuming the snow shorted out the system somehose. Here's what I've done so far...

1. I tested the old compressor by running power directly to the unit. It still wouldn't work. So, I replaced entire assembly with a new one. It's still not working.

2. I swapped the two relays that are in front of the battery. No change. 4WD works fine.

3. I replaced the 50-30-30 fuseable-link. No change.

4. I checked all fuses under the hood and inside the vehicle. No change.

5. The inspected the wiring under the vehicle and it looks fine to me.

The only things have haven't done are replace the height sensor and the ride control module.

Any ideas? I'm about out of options.

CDNArMaDa
03-26-2011, 02:33 PM
I honestly don't know... I'd looked into it and never really found an answer... I'd like to know if plumbing the compressor into the AirLift bags will work.

OK the Mada LE rear leveling works off a rheostat connected between the frame and the rear suspension, the rheostat is part a control circuit( most likely a Wheatstone bridge with a couple of diodes and solenoids in the null current loop) that operates a) the compressor or b) the exhaust solenoid valve.

Because the rheostat is translating ride height to electrical resistance(current), and does not directly operate the air shock air circuit,( it does not use a pressure switch) so the control circuit does not care/know what compressor its running. Replacement of the compressor /lines/ airbags is possible while maintaining the rear auto level.

Now for the airbagit kit some extra plumbing would be required but from what I see should be possible, using the factory wiring.

Just as a general guide:
remove old compressor and lines leaving and marking electrical connections;
install new compressor lines airbags etc.;
hook up new compressor to existing power wires coming from power solenoid/relay;
connect air line from receiver tank to existing vent valve;
connect air lines from tank to each side air bag.

existing control circuit should maintain ride height.

Of course you could add a dpdt switch to run manually as well.

And every one would be using Teflon core braided stainless air lines, and would not need to worry about rubbing or cold weather.
tg

scr38
03-26-2011, 03:58 PM
The height sensor is a simple variable resistor. It has an input of 5 VDC to it from the control unit. One end is grounded and the wiper is the output (.2 to 4.8 VDC) to the control unit. I haven't measured the resistance of the variable resistor, but if you get one of the same value you could mount it somewhere on the dash and switch between it and the rear mounted unit using a DPDT switch. Then you could select auto control or manual control with the switch. On manual control you could adjust the height using the dash mounted variable resistor.

bsprad
03-31-2011, 07:31 AM
Complete noob here. I just purchased a used 07 armada in great shape. The only issue I'm having is the left side air suspension is leaking. The left side will drop about an inch overnight when the weather is cold.

I've read this entire thread, along with others, and there is some great information here. It doesn't seem apparent that replacing the o-rings at the entrance to the shock is a permanent fix. Can anyone who has performed the fix post back with a long term update? Also, how did you insert the new o-ring? That part seems a bit tricky.

I was chatting a friend about a problem he was having with a tire and he mentioned that he had used the Slime tire sealant to fix it. That got me thinking - could brushing this on the leaking fittings help our issue? This stuff is non-flammable, and water soluble. So it shouldn't cause any harm and it can easily be removed with water if it doesn't work. It's design to help with small air leaks under pressure - our exact problem in a slightly different fashion. I'm strongly considering giving it a try. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance for any help.

bsprad
03-31-2011, 10:56 AM
You don't need a spring compressor. Just pull the bolt to disconnect the lower coil bucket arm from the spindle and the spring comes right out, it's really easy.

You will need to replace the shocks with some regular shock replacements from PRG or Shock Warehouse.

Honestly, those bags are what I really, really want but can't afford to do right now. I'd be thrilled to sell you my shocks and compressor for $350 shipped so I could start building on those air springs instead, but I don't think that'd be fair to you because those air springs with that compressor is a much better setup IMHO.

Can you provide a little more detail on the removal of the springs and shocks? I am thinking about replacing the rear shock myself and then using the old one as a test subject for some permanent fixes. On some vehicles the suspension components are tough to remove.

Thanks!

hernamf
04-20-2011, 11:18 AM
Follow up to my failed air suspension system...

As it turns out, all things are pointing to a faulty suspension control module. The cost for the dealer to replace it is crazy. Has anyone ever replaced the module themselves? It's my understanding that the module is located in the left-hand rear interior panel. Any suggestions and advice will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

dcm2004
05-15-2011, 02:43 PM
Questions, does the system have a "saftey" to prevent the compresser from burning up? What fuse # is applicable to the system? Which wire is the power isire at the compresser? Any help would be great1

BlakSpyda
05-22-2011, 10:42 AM
Welcome dcm2004!

Les7311
06-09-2011, 10:38 PM
I am leaking also....... 07 (fully loaded) mada and looking for a fix.....

bigerv
06-10-2011, 12:07 AM
A friend of mine has a mada and the only fix he got was 2 new compressors....

PS600REVX
06-10-2011, 09:50 AM
I also got a new compressor as they said it was an exaust valve issue. Even after that fix I had the infamous leaking right where the lines go in to the shocks. I tried the o-ring fix you can read about on here and it didn't work. Then took it to my dealer and had them change the lines (cheap fix 1st). They stated it was still slightly leaking but the mechanic had a solution he thought would work. He sprayed the lines all over with some sort of silicone type spray (not sure what it was called) but I guess it is temp resistant as it never totally hardens. That was back in March and I am still holding. Even after 3 trips with my 7000lb or so TT which used to "squeeze" the air right out of the system. Grab that bottle of soapy water and start spraying. Once you see those clear as day air bubbles, you can go from there.

dbal72
06-13-2011, 09:41 AM
Had my lines replaced and a new compressor installed in January this year and it has not leaked once. Fortunately under warranty. I have towed a 7500lb. boat and once hooked it started to squat and then the compressor kicked in and pumped it up. Has worked great since. Used to completely leak out within an hour.

hernamf
06-20-2011, 03:29 PM
My dealer concluded that the ride control module needs to be replaced. They want $575 for the module and $200 labor. Courtesy Nissan sells the module for under $400 and I can install the module in 2 minutes. Nissan offered a $250 service credit through my local dealer. I declined and stated that I'm not about to pay my local dealer $500 for something that should have lasted more than 36,000 miles, which is when it failed. I sent a letter to the dealership's General Manager and to Nissan. I haven't heard back from either party. I can buy a used module for approximately $200. This whole thing is frustrating.

pizzaman
06-21-2011, 10:44 AM
From what I have heard, getting to the module is not an easy task! It's located behind the driver side trunks space trim and you pretty much have to take the rear seats out to get it apart! Good luck with your repair and hopefully there is a short-cut that you can find!

hernamf
06-22-2011, 09:14 AM
Getting to the module is difficult only the first time. There are two screws that hold the module in place. I had to disconnect the two seat belt "anchors" and slightly pry the side panel away from the interior. I was able to access the first bolt and remove it. I put the panel back in place and reinstalled the seat belt anchors. Then, I removed the cover from the area where the tire jack and hatch lift motor are located. There is a "vent" on the inside of that compartment. I took a box cutter and cut the plastic so that the vent is hinged. I then had access to the ride control module. I removed the second bolt and disconnected the module. I can now replace the module very easily. In my opinion, only one bolt is needed to secure the module in place. Sure, cutting the plastic isn't the most ideal solution, but it's hidden from view and it makes replacing the module much easier.

By the way, I still haven't gotten a response from Nissan or my local dealer.

pais
06-27-2011, 12:46 AM
I've fallen victim to the compressor turning on but the bags don't inflate. Mine is '10 with a whopping 11k miles. The dealership will be called in the morning.

I definitely agree with the frustrating part..

Les7311
07-29-2011, 03:23 PM
update: truck acting better with no adjustments to airbags etc (just sat in the garage for a few days). also the blinking cruise light is gone and working properly....

....wordering if the computer has anything to do with this?

wallykski
09-06-2011, 02:52 PM
I've fallen victim to the compressor turning on but the bags don't inflate. Mine is '10 with a whopping 11k miles. The dealership will be called in the morning.

I definitely agree with the frustrating part..

My 2010 is doing the same. Here's the Technical Bulletin link from Nissan - here (http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/TSB/TSB_xml/nmabstract.aspx?id=56318&model=&modelyear=).
----Update----

Took the beast in - let the dealership know about the saggy rear. Performed diagnostic. Found an error code - C1801 EXH SOLENOID FAILURE PRESENT. Also found level sensor faulted. Removed and replaced rear suspension air compressor. Ordered air ride level sensor.
Compressor Assy part # 53400-7S600
Sensor Assy-HEI part # 53820-7S600
The tech also told me that the ride height sensor was installed wrong from the factory. The pictures I have attached are what the mada looks like prior to the partial fix, and now after fix with full height - STOCK! Who needs a lift kit!

Also, I drew up where the original location of the sensor was. The pic is the new location.

It has taken a bit to get used to the high-in-the-air-rear, and I could tell that riding at this height would need a rear end alignment done (looks like the wheels are angled in). Also, at this height, you don't have much room for shock rebound (thud after a bump). Once I get this fixed, I'll adjust the height myself and get to a happy-happy!

Lastly, I know I have seen this before, but to adjust the ride height, the adjustment connection has a snap on strap across the end of it. Pop this off with your fingers, pull away from the ball end of the sensor arm, twist to your desired setting, reconnect and snap the strap back on. It's that easy!

face178bxny
10-14-2011, 05:32 PM
My2009 armada has been in and out the dealer with rear suspension problems. Now that my extended warranty which is supposed to be the best Nissan has to offer has kicked in i've been informed that it does not cover suspension and control problems. Can anyone assist me on how to fix this without having to scrap the auto leveling system.

BlakSpyda
10-14-2011, 09:56 PM
Welcome to CA face178bxny!

You have to consider this as maintenance that has not been completed, like an work order that has not been closed. Approach the dealer maintanance advisor and let them know that the work they did is not complete.

DBL047
12-14-2011, 02:22 PM
Just thought I would throw in my thoughts. i had a 2005 Armada LE with the auto leveling and I had major issues with the leaking. It was int he shop 3 or more times. they replaced everything from the actual bags to the pumps and sensors and it still leaked! When I towed it would go flat completely.
I don't know if the dealer replaced the hoses and clamps too or reused them, but it drove me nuts.
I now have a 2006 Infiniti QX56 and every morning I go to start it... its pumping itself up, and its not just in the morning. If I go to the store and come out and start it its pumping. I have not towed with the Infiniti yet, but man I want to fix this. So once I get time I will go under the car....

I was wondering if anyone has put aftermarket airbags in the rear and used the factory pump? Just curious.

wonderlyeric
12-21-2011, 02:37 PM
Just thought I would throw in my thoughts. i had a 2005 Armada LE with the auto leveling and I had major issues with the leaking. It was int he shop 3 or more times. they replaced everything from the actual bags to the pumps and sensors and it still leaked! When I towed it would go flat completely.
I don't know if the dealer replaced the hoses and clamps too or reused them, but it drove me nuts.
I now have a 2006 Infiniti QX56 and every morning I go to start it... its pumping itself up, and its not just in the morning. If I go to the store and come out and start it its pumping. I have not towed with the Infiniti yet, but man I want to fix this. So once I get time I will go under the car....

I was wondering if anyone has put aftermarket airbags in the rear and used the factory pump? Just curious.

DBL047,

I am convinced that the air shock/compresor system is a bad design, as many of us are having all kinds of problems with it. Even after replacing parts it still continues to be flawed. I recently got fed up with it and removed the entire system, air shocks and compressor. I put in new rear springs, ranco shocks, daystar 1" coil lift and Firestone coil airbags. I am very happy with the set up, no more leaking rear end. The new springs have a higher compression rate, so even loading up the back end with weight doesn't drop the rear hardly at all, if it is too low, the airbags bring it back to level.

It's a little bit expensive to do, but I didn't want to spend money on replacing the airshock system components and have them continue to not work.

pete
12-22-2011, 09:32 AM
2009 LE still with only 12k and bought new. Have had probs since purchase, every winter once it gets cold. Had controller replaced (2ND dealer,) had compressor replaced (2nd Dealer,) and on the final try last year had both air shocks and hoses replaced, (3rd Dealer.) It worked for the remainder of the "southern" winter with no probs.

Winter is almost upon us and am curious to see what happens this year. Usually does not start acting up until temps are <30 or so. Will head up to the boat after the first week of cold to see what happens when put under a load. Still under warranty until March, but do not think that matters if they can't fix it for good. MAYBE THEY DID FIX IT PERMANENTLY LAST YEAR, WILL KNOW SOON.

Manufacturer had a service bulletin that told dealers to replace the air shocks and hoses because of leaky o ring issues. However, first dealer I went to when the problem developed said there was no problem. Of course, that same dealer NEVER admitted that anything was ever wrong with ANY VEHICLE under warranty. (??? What the problem here?) 2nd Dealer made valiant effort to fix issues and did have it atleast working for a while. 3rd Dealers seems to have it fixed, but time will tell in a couple of weeks as the first cold snap hits soon.

csptk
12-22-2011, 09:56 AM
I would love to know if the air lines and shocks Nissan says to replace in the Service Bulletin are revised? They B.S.'d their way though my complaints until the warranty expired and the Service Bulletin was released a month after. I replaced the o-rings and wrapped the connections in silicone tape. Made a huge difference. I still need to do the other ends at the compressor. I also thought about welding AN fittings on the shock bodies and replacing the lines with steel braided Teflon lines. But the compressor end presents an issue with that.

pete
12-24-2011, 09:15 AM
:crikey:Since replacement of lines and shocks have not had problems. Was told and did read about the issues with o rings and connections at BOTH ends of each hose and shock and compressor connector. Based upon "one year"/ winter results of replacement shocks and hoses, must "assume" the replacement items were corrected and no longer defective. Will know for sure in several weeks or so of colder weather. Have no idea of cost for shocks and hoses, as they were replaced under warranty once a decent and reputable dealer who could read the service bulletins was located. Do wonder if issue was ONLY o rings, and suspect the connectors may have also had issues that are also possibly corrected with the repair.

DBL047
12-29-2011, 12:37 PM
wonderlyeric... Thanks for the advise. I dont know if I want to replace everything. But I am considering just buying the airlift 1000 type bags and install those and use the factory compressor. What do you guys think?

E&J push'n wind
12-31-2011, 03:23 AM
It has been said, nothing ventured nothing gained. It is certainly worth a try, you might have to make some "adjustments" as I think the hose/tubing diameter is different. If mine was bugg'n I'd give it a go.

Sent from my SPH-D710 Samsung Galaxy II 4G Touch using AutoGuide.Com Free

Armada2004
12-31-2011, 03:26 PM
fuses arent labeled(on my 04) which one is 12? there are a bunch of spares and the term you used is not labled on any of the fuses next to the glove box...what is fuse 12 labled?

thanks

csptk
12-31-2011, 08:18 PM
99.9% of the time the "bladder" of the shock (the airbag) isn't what leaks....it's the lines/fittings/terminations. You are wasting time/$$$ swapping the airbags and leaving the stock lines....IMHO.

P.S. - anyone that has had the TSB performed under warranty (or otherwise): please snap a couple of pics of the lines going into the shock body, and the lines going into the compressor. Purdy Please?!?!