Time has come for first oil change and I wanted to get input from fellow DIY'ers before I do this. Do you buy Nissan parts for the oil change such as oil filter, crush washers? Or do you buy the stuff from local auto parts store? anyone have torque specs for the oil pan bolt? what weight oil is recommended? I am thinking of Mobil 1 10W30.

Thanks in advance.

-Jim

You have to remove the front skid plate held by 4 bolts (12mm heads I think), just loosen the rear bolts as the skid plate is slotted. You have to remove the 2 front bolts completely. Buy a 65mm oil filter wrench (socket style) as the factory installed oil filter is installed SUPER tight by a psycho gorilla. I buy Nissan oil filters and save receipts/keep records for warranty purposes. Use any good quality oil that you like, organic or synthetic, as long as you change oil on a regular basis. Avoid Fram oil filters as they are living by name alone, no quality. Pureone (puralator) has about the best oil filter dollar for dollar if you must run after market. I bought 8 OEM filters w/crush washers from irontoad.com for <$48 w/shipping about 6 months ago. Oh yeah, I am a little thick in the mid-section (all muscle), it is helpful to drive front wheels up on some short scrap 2x8” (or something similar) to gain a inch or so of room under front spoiler. This makes it easier to remove skid plate. Good luck, and have fun - it is easy with the oil filter wrench.

I will add a couple of things. Be sure the oil is warm when you drain it, but not so hot that it will burn if you get some on you. Use the Nissan filter, and be sure to install the new drain plug gasket that comes with the filter. Clean the filter seating area well, and oil the surface of the new filter gasket before installing it. Don't use the filter wrench to tighten the filter. Screw it down until the gasket touches then turn it about 3/4 of a turn more. You will need 7 quarts of oil. Fill it until the level is somewhere between the two marks on the dip stick. Do not overfill!

Looks like he covered all the basics. I always grab a handful of rags and try to block out an extra few minutes of time to just look around under the truck - commune with the beast and start to get familiar with what looks 'normal' so that you'll notice when something isn't right later on.

I change oil regularly on my other cars along with suspension, brakes, you name it, but its always a good idea to find out if there are any particulars. it seems much easier to crawl under this thing than the M3. :-p

I just changed the oil on my new Honda ST1300 for the first time tonight and the OEM Honda filters outside diameter (65mm), thread and sealing surface is exactly the same as the Armada but just a little shorter. When the warranty is out on both I am going to run the Armada size Puralator on both. Go figure that a 5.6l truck engine and a 1.3l MC engine have almost the exact same filter.

Time has come for first oil change and I wanted to get input from fellow DIY'ers before I do this. Do you buy Nissan parts for the oil change such as oil filter, crush washers? Or do you buy the stuff from local auto parts store? anyone have torque specs for the oil pan bolt? what weight oil is recommended? I am thinking of Mobil 1 10W30.

Thanks in advance.

-Jim
If you are going to use Mobil 1, use a synthetic oil filter. The standard filters aren't setup to work with the synthetic oil.
Change it hot. Put a dab of oil on the gasket of the new filter before installing.
Don't overfill.
Make sure you have a couple thousand on the motor before switching to synthetic to seat the rings properly. Mobil says it better but they are higher flowing and get more debris. Also, Nissan can't fault you for using an aftermarket filter for warranty purposes. They regulated that out also.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_1_Extended_Performance_Oil_Filters_FAQs.aspx #FAQs1
Dispose of oil properly.

Have fun.

Ok, i went and picked up the 65mm socket from Pep Boys. it would be easier using chopsticks to unscrew the damn thing than this piece of junk. What should I expect for 2.99 right. alright, anyone have a recommendation on where to get this socket. the pep boys one has all of 2 centimeters of engagement and once you pop in the wrench, it pushes the socket out another centimer so you have jack for engagement on the filter.

I'm thinking about buying the adjustable wrench for oil filters from Sears. anyone have good experience with them?

Thanks

I think I got mine at Sears auto center.

I'm confused. There's a lot of recommendations to break-in the engine before switching to synth, but the mobil web site says that it's a myth. What would happen if synth was put in before the break-in period? :confused:

I would say always follow the manual, but I switched synth after 3k miles and never looked back. No problems here.

I would say always follow the manual, but I switched synth after 3k miles and never looked back. No problems here.

How often do you change the synthetic?

I've been changing about every 4000 miles with the synth.

I just wanted to report that using those big oil filter clamps work just fine on the filter. It came off in a heartbeat. There is a picture of one on the oil change diy over on the titan forum for reference.
running Mobil-1 10W30 now.

every 3k for the Armada...

The standard band type oil filter wrench from Sears works great. Use it all the time.

I cuncur with Mobil 1 on this. I have switched to synthetic at under 1000 miles on every new car I have bought in the last 10 years. From what I see the sooner you do it the cleaner your engine will stay inside. I took autoshop in the 70's when they first came out with full synthetic and heard the same warnings. I think tolerances are much tighter than they used to be back them and that (do not use synthetic until after 1500 mile break in) is simply old boiler plate info that got carried forward by word of mouth. From what Mobil1 says and what I have experienced I say it is OK to switch over as soon as you can do so.

P.S. my 2005 mini cooper S came from the factory with synthetic and the first scheduled oil change is at 9000 miles (which by the way is free for 4 years).

Chrisarmada
04 smoke 4 x 4

My dad bought a Titan a couple of months ago, and his skid plate has a little "trap door" that opens up so you can access the filter without having to remove the whole thing.

Cillyone already noticed, but I decided to change my oil on the Armada and Accord today instead of taking to dealer. I grabbed an oil filter for the Armada and one for the Honda Accord 4 Cylinder. They are exactly the same.
I checked 5 times just to make sure.
I've read that it's not a problem, but you'd think with double the cylinders, more than double the displacement, hp, and all that, we'd need a larger oil filter. So here's a picture of the blue Honda Accord oil filter and the armada's.

Cillyone already noticed, but I decided to change my oil on the Armada and Accord today instead of taking to dealer. I grabbed an oil filter for the Armada and one for the Honda Accord 4 Cylinder. They are exactly the same.
I checked 5 times just to make sure.
I've read that it's not a problem, but you'd think with double the cylinders, more than double the displacement, hp, and all that, we'd need a larger oil filter. So here's a picture of the blue Honda Accord oil filter and the armada's.


Try cutting them in half to see if they are the same inside, they may just use the same outer case. What about the holes around the thread, are they the same?

Just interested :D

What about the holes around the thread, are they the same?

Just interested :D
The holes around the thread have little if any bearing on the interchangeability of the filters. I believe the seat pressure of the drain-back/by-pass valve is the major factor in determining compatibility.

I just changed my own oil for the first time in my life! I am pretty handy but have just never thought it was worth my time. However, some Jiffy Lubes are getting close to 40 bucks and I don't trust the dealer or want to "make an appointment" to change my oil. I also wanted to switch over to Mobil1 5W30. It was very simple. I did jack the front end up to give me more breathing room. I saw a great pictorial on the Titan forum that was key to my success. I removed the skid plate (do we really need that if I am just driving on dirt roads?). Removed the plug - drained the oil - had to wrestle with the filter for a while cuz it was on real tight. I used 7 quarts of oil and the level was still about half way between the marks - anyone else need more than 7 quarts? I will only need to change my oil 3 times a year at most so it is a no brainer. I think I need to tackle the differential fluid next. That looks easy too. If there are any other newbies out there - take the plunge.

Here's a tip - make sure you watch the oil as it drains. I have a very wide oil drain but as the oil reservoir drained - it changed drip angles DRAMATICALLY! I was lucky to catch it or I would of had a nice spill. A little oil goes a long way so don't just remove the bolt and go have lunch.

Cool Bob, the Armada is easier than my motorcycles to change oil. I screwed together some 2x8 scraps ~ 14" & 18" to make a quick and dirty front wheel ramps to gain some tummy (+3") clearance and so I did not have to mess with the floor jack and stands.

My dad bought a Titan a couple of months ago, and his skid plate has a little "trap door" that opens up so you can access the filter without having to remove the whole thing.

Anybody's Armada have this? This is a great idea.

Keith

Anybody's Armada have this? This is a great idea.

Keith

My 04 does not, I take it your 06 does not either?

My 04 does not, I take it your 06 does not either?

Nope......

I used 7 quarts of oil and the level was still about half way between the marks - anyone else need more than 7 quarts?

Yeah, the first time I changed my oil and filter I used 6.5 qts. this last time I used 7 and it wasn't quite full. :huh:

Did you let it sit for a while for the oil to drain completely into crankcase? Cold oil takes longer than hot oil to drain down.

Did you let it sit for a while for the oil to drain completely into crankcase? Cold oil takes longer than hot oil to drain down.

Engine oil was warm not hot. Let it drain out pretty good. No biggy. Now that you brought it up, wouldn't cold oil drain faster since as it heats up to operating temperature the viscosity becomes higher (10w30) hence drain slower. Doesn't seem that way, but just wondering.

Engine oil was warm not hot. Let it drain out pretty good. No biggy. Now that you brought it up, wouldn't cold oil drain faster since as it heats up to operating temperature the viscosity becomes higher (10w30) hence drain slower. Doesn't seem that way, but just wondering.
Oil thins and flows better as it heats up. What I meant was when you poured the new oil in it will take some time for it to reach the pan, especially since it is cold. If you check your oil level immediately after filling with new oil and compare the level after sitting an hour it will read more because it will have had the time to completely drain through the engine.

I just changed my own oil for the first time in my life! I am pretty handy but have just never thought it was worth my time. However, some Jiffy Lubes are getting close to 40 bucks and I don't trust the dealer or want to "make an appointment" to change my oil. I also wanted to switch over to Mobil1 5W30. It was very simple. I did jack the front end up to give me more breathing room. I saw a great pictorial on the Titan forum that was key to my success. I removed the skid plate (do we really need that if I am just driving on dirt roads?). Removed the plug - drained the oil - had to wrestle with the filter for a while cuz it was on real tight. I used 7 quarts of oil and the level was still about half way between the marks - anyone else need more than 7 quarts? I will only need to change my oil 3 times a year at most so it is a no brainer. I think I need to tackle the differential fluid next. That looks easy too. If there are any other newbies out there - take the plunge.

Here's a tip - make sure you watch the oil as it drains. I have a very wide oil drain but as the oil reservoir drained - it changed drip angles DRAMATICALLY! I was lucky to catch it or I would of had a nice spill. A little oil goes a long way so don't just remove the bolt and go have lunch.




I work at a Chrysler dealer & have worked at independent shops. I may be bias but in an independent shop the knowledge just isn't there to intimately know the vehicle you are working on. I am learning that Nissan service is hit or miss but I feel much better about taking my Armada to Nissan for warranty repairs than to some "Jiffy Lube". Just a thought.

I work at a Chrysler dealer & have worked at independent shops. I may be bias but in an independent shop the knowledge just isn't there to intimately know the vehicle you are working on. I am learning that Nissan service is hit or miss but I feel much better about taking my Armada to Nissan for warranty repairs than to some "Jiffy Lube". Just a thought.


Warranty repairs are a little different then a Oil Change... And even my Nissan dealer can't seam to get the Warranty repairs done right.

I just paid them to change my Tranny fluid and they overfilled it by about 1 1/2 qt's so now I have to go back to have them drain some out. I feel really good about the money I spent with them to have a professional job done.


Oh yeah my front diff fluid was leaking out of the breather tube and they replaced my Brake ABS acutuator and said it was brake fluid. (Part was backordered and truck stayed at dealership for two weeks) Day after I got the Mada back guess what Diff fluid all over again. So it went back and the Service manager said yes this is diff fluid not brake fluid not sure what the tech was thinking. They found that the seal in the front diff that was causing the problem and got that replaced. Oh how I love the professional accurate service from my Nissan dealer (I saw Monkey's at the Zoo that could do a better job)

Sorry about venting but I wonder sometimes if the certifications the Service Tech's have are not the mail order ones.....

My husband has spent the good part of today fighting with that damn oil filter and he can't get it off. Have ANY of you experienced this and if so WTH did you use?? We have a champion wrench but that didn't work so my husband went to get a strap wrench. We have a 2006 LE if that makes any kind of difference.

Is there ANY tips you can tell us to get this done?? Thank you in advance!

Warranty repairs are a little different then a Oil Change... And even my Nissan dealer can't seam to get the Warranty repairs done right.

I just paid them to change my Tranny fluid and they overfilled it by about 1 1/2 qt's so now I have to go back to have them drain some out. I feel really good about the money I spent with them to have a professional job done.


Oh yeah my front diff fluid was leaking out of the breather tube and they replaced my Brake ABS acutuator and said it was brake fluid. (Part was backordered and truck stayed at dealership for two weeks) Day after I got the Mada back guess what Diff fluid all over again. So it went back and the Service manager said yes this is diff fluid not brake fluid not sure what the tech was thinking. They found that the seal in the front diff that was causing the problem and got that replaced. Oh how I love the professional accurate service from my Nissan dealer (I saw Monkey's at the Zoo that could do a better job)

Sorry about venting but I wonder sometimes if the certifications the Service Tech's have are not the mail order ones.....


WILDnPHX - I know you posted to this in January, but wanted to know who your dealer is so I can go somewhere else. :)

My husband has spent the good part of today fighting with that damn oil filter and he can't get it off. Have ANY of you experienced this and if so WTH did you use?? We have a champion wrench but that didn't work so my husband went to get a strap wrench. We have a 2006 LE if that makes any kind of difference.

Is there ANY tips you can tell us to get this done?? Thank you in advance!

Bought my filter wrench at Wa-Mart, less than $4.
Looks like an oversized socket (14 sided) made of plastic with a metal insert for a 3/8 ratchet.
Not sure about the size (about 2 5/8" measured inside), or try to fit it on a correct filter at the store. Place that wrench on back of filter and remove with the ratchet - works great.
I hope this helps out. :)

I bought a 2006 armada about 1 month ago and now have 850 miles. When is a good time to change the oil for the first time? I am going to follow a 3000mile interval after. Thanks.

I bought a 2006 armada about 1 month ago and now have 850 miles. When is a good time to change the oil for the first time? I am going to follow a 3000mile interval after. Thanks.
3K should be about right. Unless your dealer told you otherwise. My first oil change was done at 4500, that was when the dealer had on the windshiled sticker to have it done when I bought it new!

thanks for the reply. They told be 3500 miles but I thought that was kind of long to go with the break in oil.

thanks for the reply. They told be 3500 miles but I thought that was kind of long to go with the break in oil.
My dealer uses a synthetic blend. So going past 3K is normal for that type of oil.

92TripleBlack mentioned if Mobile 1 Synthetic oil is going to be used to also use a synthetic oil filter. So does anybody know if the Nissan oil filter is a synthetic filter? Also I already managed to put 2800K miles on my new Armada. Am I past the break in period? Last to make sure I got this right, you all recommand to oil the surface of the new oil filter and also to put a dab of the new oil into the new filter. Is this correct? What are the consequences if I forget to do this?

Thanks!

92TripleBlack mentioned if Mobile 1 Synthetic oil is going to be used to also use a synthetic oil filter. So does anybody know if the Nissan oil filter is a synthetic filter? Also I already managed to put 2800K miles on my new Armada. Am I past the break in period? Last to make sure I got this right, you all recommand to oil the surface of the new oil filter and also to put a dab of the new oil into the new filter. Is this correct? What are the consequences if I forget to do this?

Thanks!
ONLY PUT A LITTLE OIL ON THE FILTER SEAL! No where else!

My Nissan Dealer used a synthetic blend (Castrol Syntec) and has been since my first oil change. I am not sure about what type of filter they used, but I don't think tyhat makes a difference. Synthetic oil does not break down as fast as regular oil so the filter should stay relatively clean! Especially on a new vehicle if you are not red-lining it or running it with low oil.

I bought a 2006 armada about 1 month ago and now have 850 miles. When is a good time to change the oil for the first time? I am going to follow a 3000mile interval after. Thanks.
First oil change is at 3750 miles, althought I changed mine at 1000 miles, for the first time. According to your Service and Maintenance Schedule oil is recommended to be changed every 3750 miles.

Same here, first oil change at 2300, after that 3750 :cool:

You guys were right. After checking my records, my 1st was at 3750 and not 4500 as I said in my previous post! Thanks

thanks guys. I will probably get it done sooner than 3750 just for piece of mind

thanks guys. I will probably get it done sooner than 3750 just for piece of mind
There you go! Better safe then sorry, is my moto. Besides, it's a cheap price for piece of mind.
Cheers

Here is a link to an article on oil, a good read.

http://www.boss302.com/oil.htm

Castrol has a 10000 mile oil. How do you guys feel about thatt

Castrol has a 10000 mile oil. How do you guys feel about thatt
I get mine done at the dealer and they use Castrol Syntech (I think I spelled it right!). The synthetic blend. I used Mobil 1 synthetic years ago when I had my Datsun 510. That was a 10000 mile oil and it did quite well. I managed to put 180K on the Datsun and when I sold it it was still purring like a cat!

IMHO engine oil (syn or otherwise) in the Armada is good for far more than 3750 miles (stupid number anyway, why not 4000 miles?). I truly believe this low number was created to enhance the Nissan dealers service dept bottom line. I will go by this this figure until the warranty is out and will extend it to 6k miles then.

A manager at a place where I used to work has a Doctorate in Chemistry. One of his previous jobs was making an algorithim for the GM vehicles on when the oil change reminder would come on.

He had to test all kinds of oils and all kinds of wear and tear. He said to me "if you change your oil before 6000 miles you are wasting your money" he also told me " if you use synthetic, it should last 10000 miles easy" He specifically named Mobil 1.

Mike

I used Mobil 1 in my first Datsun and swore by it! Never changed my oil less that 7000 miles between changes..

Ok, i went and picked up the 65mm socket from Pep Boys. it would be easier using chopsticks to unscrew the damn thing than this piece of junk. What should I expect for 2.99 right. alright, anyone have a recommendation on where to get this socket. the pep boys one has all of 2 centimeters of engagement and once you pop in the wrench, it pushes the socket out another centimer so you have jack for engagement on the filter.

I'm thinking about buying the adjustable wrench for oil filters from Sears. anyone have good experience with them?

Thanks

I have a strap oil filter wrench for that reason. Most of the time if I changed the oil I will not need it.

Sometimes if you switch oil filter brands the damn filters can be different sizes brand to brand.

I can't believe I posted again to a thread that started over a year ago or so..