I did my first tranny pan drop and inspection. I carefully measured what fluid I removed and replaced with the Nissan S matic fluid. It took exactly five quarts. The s matic fluid was 12 bucks a quart:eek: The rubber gasket cost 38 bucks and is not in stock (takes 4 days to get). I just took the pan off really carefully and the gasket looked perfect so I just reused it. The debris on the magnet was all really fine sludge, no big chunks, so I guess this is normal. It definitely accumulated more on one side than the other. http://bandcam.net/armada_tran01/pan1.jpg
http://bandcam.net/armada_tran01/pan2.jpg

Nice pics wotsarmada4u. Good to know what pan looks like at just 4500 miles.

Great pics! Actually - more junk there than I would expect at 4500 miles. I initially thought you said 45k. I have 71k and still need to make this change. I bought some Mobil1 synthetic and even a torque wrench for the pan. I never did a pan drop so I am nervous. Was it fairly simple? Reading all the comments I am starting to question whether the Mobil1 is OK. I can't imagine it is not - but I don't want to ruin my paid off truck.

Oh I meant to ask - maybe someone who changed out at higher miles - did you notice that your tranny shifted more smoothly after the change??

Great pics! Actually - more junk there than I would expect at 4500 miles. I initially thought you said 45k. I have 71k and still need to make this change. I bought some Mobil1 synthetic and even a torque wrench for the pan. I never did a pan drop so I am nervous. Was it fairly simple? Reading all the comments I am starting to question whether the Mobil1 is OK. I can't imagine it is not - but I don't want to ruin my paid off truck.

I am not sure if Mobil 1 is S or J matic compatible. I would stick with Nissan Matic S if you have any worries. I use Amsoil and have had no complaints.

+1 on the amsoil. Dropping the pan is straight forward, drain, unbolt, clean, replace gasket, bolt up, refill , done.

When this is done, is there any danger that when you refill and top off with the new fluid that the internal transmission is going to be somewhat dry or have less fluid than what is needed, causing internal damage? I guess what I am asking is, is there anything special you have to do after you drain, drop pan, clean, reapply and refill?

this is of Mobil1 Site

"The synthetic base oil enables excellent performance even in the severest of operating conditions. It offers outstanding gear shifting and power transfer performance versus conventional ATF fluids. The inherently high viscosity index and stability of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF help protect against thermal breakdown at high operating temperatures, while still providing outstanding performance at very low ambient temperatures.

Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF combines high-performance synthetic hydrocarbon base oils and a superior balanced additive system to provide significantly higher levels of performance above conventional fluids. This unique, advanced technology provides long drain capability, excellent friction retention, and low-temperature fluidity. Further, it helps to improve overall transmission durability and cleanliness. Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is also compatible with conventional ATFs.

Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF is formulated for use in most North American, European and Asian vehicles.

Approved for Allison C-4 applications


Exceeds JASO 1-A performance standard


Also suitable for use in vehicles that specify the following fluid requirements:
Audi G 052 025-A2, G 052 162-A1
BMW LA2634
Esso LT 71141
ETL-7045E, ETL-8072B, N402
Ford* MERCON*, MERCON V, MERCON LV
All 2005 and earlier GM vehicles**
Honda ATF-Z1*
Hyundai SP-II, SP-III
Idemitsu K17
JWS 3309
Kia SP-II, SP-III
MAN 339F, V1, V2, Z1, Z2, Z3
Mazda ATF-III, ATF-MV
Mercedes-Benz 236.1, 236.2, 236.5, 236.6, 236.7, 236.9
Mitsubishi Diamond SP-II, SP-III
Nissan Matic-D, Matic-J, Matic-K
Subaru ATF
Toyota T-III, T-IV
Voith 55.6335.XX (G607, G1363)
Volvo 97340
ZF TE-ML 03D, 04D, 09, 14A, 14B, 16L, 17C
* Not recommend for CVT applications, MerconŽ SP, Ford Type F
** Mobil DEXRON-VI ATF is recommended for 2006 and newer GM vehicles and improved performance in 2005 and earlier vehicles, wherever DEXRON is specified

When this is done, is there any danger that when you refill and top off with the new fluid that the internal transmission is going to be somewhat dry or have less fluid than what is needed, causing internal damage? I guess what I am asking is, is there anything special you have to do after you drain, drop pan, clean, reapply and refill?

I've been told by a couple mechanics before you drive it, with the engine running and your foot on the brake, shift through all gears a couple times and it should be OK to drive after that.

Thanks for the writeup! my 2010 SE has bout 3k miles. I've been planning on doing this once I hit 6k just to get any metal out of there.

So there's no drain bolts near the magnets? you *have* to drop the pan?

thanks again!

Thanks for the writeup! my 2010 SE has bout 3k miles. I've been planning on doing this once I hit 6k just to get any metal out of there.

So there's no drain bolts near the magnets? you *have* to drop the pan?

thanks again!
Yes there is a drain bolt. Drain it then, drop the pan. Be careful, after drain there is still some fluid in the pan. I was a little nervous but it was actually pretty simple. I think the most important thing is probably to make sure you put back in whatever you take out. Mine turned out 5 quarts. I didn't replace the gasket (which you probably are supposed to) but I checked the next day and no leakage so I guess its OK. Does anybody know what the torque specs are for the pan bolts? I just tightened the bolts snug but not too tight so has to squish the gasket.

70 in. lbs.

70 in. lbs.
Roger that. Thx!! I'm gonna check em this weekend. :D