I just recently changed out my front struts with some Bilstein HD's and my front rotor and pads with R1 Concept E-line cross drilled/slotted rotors and posi quiet extended wear pads (sintered metal...not ceramic)

Front Struts:

You will need:
Spring compressors (rented from autozone)
Asorted wrenches Mostly Metric
Air tools (nice to have and make life easier...but socket set will work)
Air Compressor (good one! you will need to air for the spring compressors)
4' 2x4 for help with pushing the lower control arm down and give you room to remove the strut.

Jack up the SUV and put jack stands under the frame (safety first!(
Remove wheel and set aside
There are 3 nuts on top of the frame bucket with Strut sticking through see picture below
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors010.jpg
The is one big bolt with nut on lower control arm see picture below
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors003.jpg
Remove the 3 nuts on top and the big bolt and nut below and put in safe place as you will reuse this hardware
Next take the 4' 2x4 and place it like so in the picture below
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors012.jpg
Next it's time to transfer the spring to the new strut
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors005.jpg
A vise would be nice for this...but I did it without one
Put the rented spring compressors in place and slowly and evenly compress the spring. Once the spring is loose and the top spring plate can move freely it's time to remove the top nut on the strut piston shaft. I used an 8mm socket on the strut piston shaft and wrench on the nut (don't remember what size off hand) and be careful! As Drivers side sheared...and that was not fun!
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors015.jpg
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors006.jpg
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors007.jpg
Remember to place the big washer that came with the Bilstein HD's on before anything else gets put on the strut! (FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS THAT WERE IN THE BOX!)
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors008.jpg
Then put on the spring and spring plate (my upper spring plate isolators where still in very good shape but you may want to replace them if they are torn or if you just want too). REMEMBER to place the spring in the same place (with the end of it outward as in the picture!
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors009.jpg
Then put the new nut (from the Bilstein HD's kit) on and tighten according to the specs on the Instructions that were included...I believe its 40ft lbs.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors008.jpg[/IMG
Then it's time to replace into the SUV.....using your big 2x4 and a helper get it back into place.
[IMG]http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors013.jpg
Tighten the 3 nuts on top and the big bolt and nut (don't recall the specs off hand...but I did them good and tight) Double check your work on both sides!

Front Rotors:

You will need:
Assorted Metric sockets
an old wire hanger for hanging caliper
C-clamp
lock tight
Anti squeal for the back of the pads (optional)
air tools are nice for this job too...since the caliper hanger is held on with some good lock tight on the 2 big bolts!
Brake cleaner
Small block of wood (for the c-clamp for pushing the pistons back into the caliper)
May need to remove some brake fluid from the res if you have to push the pistons way in. (check before you start anything....it's always easy to add brake fluid) REMEMEBER brake fluid is hard on paint!!!!!!!!!! so be careful!

http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors004.jpg
I turned the wheel to expose the work area for ease of working
Remove the 2 caliper bolts and place in safe place for reuse
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors016.jpg
Remove the caliper and hang with wire hanger on frame or upper A-arm
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors019.jpg
Next remove the little gromit that is going to be in the way as in the picture below
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors018.jpg
Now remove the 2 large bolts (lock tight has been used and they can be a bear to get off...a big cheater bar maybe your best friend!)
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors017.jpg
Clean the hanger up and set aside
Next remove the old rotor....mine was on there pretty good and I used a rubber mallet to get it off....clean the area that the new rotor will sit on (hub) and you may want to put a little anti seize if its prone to rusting
Finally its time to put the new rotor on....I clean my new rotors off with brake cleaner to make sure there is no protective film or oil (just habbit) and put them into place
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors020.jpg
Now put the caliper hanger back in place and bolts back on with a small dab of lock tight and put the gromit back into its place.
Next is the new pads on the hanger and then the caliper back in place and bolts back on and tighten to spec.
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors021.jpg
Double check your work and time to check the brakes and check fluid!

Put the wheel back on and take your time to break them in...it didn't take long on mine....and I love my R1's!

Good look too!
http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc199/bsljacques/Armada/Strutsandrotors023.jpg

If I missed anything please feel free to add to this thread.

Finally time to enjoy a cold beer and sit back and count the money you just saved!!!!!:D

Good write up but its my understanding that you dont need a spring compressor if you 're just changing out shocks.
http://www.mightytitans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20355&highlight=Front+shock

Nice write-up!! Should help a few around here that thought they couldn't do it themselves.

Good write up but its my understanding that you dont need a spring compressor if you 're just changing out shocks.
http://www.mightytitans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20355&highlight=Front+shock

You will need a spring compressor as the new struts do not come with a new spring. It is needed to remove the spring from your old strut to your new strut.

The rear shock do not need a spring compressor to remove and replace...but the front does.

Hope that helps,

This is exactly what I was looking for. Will this work for an 08?? I just posted a couple of days ago looking to see if there was anything like this on here. I am still somewhat nervous about doing it myself, but this is perfect. Thanks for the post and the pics, great job.

yes i did it its the same

Awesome! Everyone needs to bookmark this one!

Thank you all for the compliments....it was a fun project....I think my next one will be like some have mentioned.....Braided lines and I think I will paint the calipers nice too!

Thank you all for the compliments....it was a fun project....I think my next one will be like some have mentioned.....Braided lines and I think I will paint the calipers nice too!

What do you think of the shocks? Has the ride comfort / handling improved?

Were they worn out? I just got new tires but only have 30k on my struts and they seem fine but not sure if I should replace them.

What do you think of the shocks? Has the ride comfort / handling improved?

Were they worn out? I just got new tires but only have 30k on my struts and they seem fine but not sure if I should replace them.

I bought my Armada used with 52K on the clock....I now have 70K and I had a good amount of bump steer....but now it's a new ride all together....much better over bumpy roads and just feels great! I hope to get the new tires on this week or next and get an alignment too....I will keep everyone posted.

Does anyone know if the Bilstein HD will fill 2010 QX56? Can you post the part # please.

Does anyone know if the Bilstein HD will fill 2010 QX56? Can you post the part # please.

According to Shock warehouse it will work on a 2010 titan...so I would venture to say it will most likely work on a QX. Hopefully someone will chime it on this one.

just a thought where those two caliper bolt up to i usually remove those sliders and lube them up a little, seen too many of them seize and dont slide causing caliper to not release causing pads to wear out sooner

just a thought where those two caliper bolt up to i usually remove those sliders and lube them up a little, seen too many of them seize and dont slide causing caliper to not release causing pads to wear out sooner

Good Call! Thats a good thing to do!

just a thought where those two caliper bolt up to i usually remove those sliders and lube them up a little, seen too many of them seize and dont slide causing caliper to not release causing pads to wear out sooner

I had one completely seize on an ex-gf's truck (Jimmy?) when I was doing her brakes and had to get a replacement from the dealer. That's good advice. :mad:

What do you use to lube the sliders? Wont grease eat the boot?

Also, having never done a brake job, is it necessary to remove the sliding pin bolts? Cant I just remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the hub, or does the piston body (pic 3) need to be removed from the pad housing (pics 2 & 4) in order to remove the pads?

Do you use anything to lube the shims (pad retaining clips)?

Thanks for the write up.

What do you use to lube the sliders? Wont grease eat the boot?

Also, having never done a brake job, is it necessary to remove the sliding pin bolts? Cant I just remove the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the hub, or does the piston body (pic 3) need to be removed from the pad housing (pics 2 & 4) in order to remove the pads?

Do you use anything to lube the shims (pad retaining clips)?

Thanks for the write up.

You need to take the calipers off the hangers to get the pads on and off. I use regular grease in the sliders...and I didn't do anything with the shims...and no squeaks. Some will put a very think layer of grease on there shims...but I don't.

Hope that helps!

Just wanted to say thanks for the How-To!! your pics and directions helped a lot! We were able to get the stock nut off the first strut no problem, but sheared the tip off the second strut :( we attempted to use vice clamp "wrench" but that was a no-go and had to grind the nut off... stupid nut! haha

You need to take the calipers off the hangers to get the pads on and off. I use regular grease in the sliders...and I didn't do anything with the shims...and no squeaks. Some will put a very think layer of grease on there shims...but I don't.

Hope that helps!

I use the caliper grease on the sliders as well. From the factory they seem to have white grease (lithium?) but I just used the black high-temp stuff I had handy.

I tend to go a little overboard on lubing the caliper and brake pad shims though.

What are the torque specs on the caliper bolts?

What are the torque specs on the caliper bolts?

Don't know off hand....I would have to research...but I am sure someone will chime in that has the service manual.

I've got around 70K on my 2005 LE and figuring the front shocks must be getting weak. Pushing down on the front bumper doesn't show it though. Are there any sub-numbers for the Bilstein 5100's or HD shocks for the front? It appears you need a spring compressor but others said no? Also, I'm assuming a front end alignment would be in order even those these aren't struts? I'll probably do everything at once including the front brakes and rotors as long as I'm getting into it. Just trying to get my ducks in order ahead of time. Thanks!

I've got around 70K on my 2005 LE and figuring the front shocks must be getting weak. Pushing down on the front bumper doesn't show it though. Are there any sub-numbers for the Bilstein 5100's or HD shocks for the front? It appears you need a spring compressor but others said no? Also, I'm assuming a front end alignment would be in order even those these aren't struts? I'll probably do everything at once including the front brakes and rotors as long as I'm getting into it. Just trying to get my ducks in order ahead of time. Thanks!

You will need a spring compressor...unless you take them somewhere to have it done. I suggest an alignment after also. It was not a hard job...but it's nice to have an extra hand to get them out and put them back in.

I used the HD's - F4-BE5-D185-H0 Should be the same for yours with the HD's...not sure about the 5100's.


Hope that helps!

B

It does, thanks! there were actually two Bilstein shocks listed for the Titan and I wasn't sure if one, both or neither would work. That clears it up. Oh, how could you tell that your old shocks were worn out? - bump steer?

I'm interested in this as well. My 06 LE with 63K is def doing the bump steer. But I need brakes, rotors, tires, and a new Nav controller. SO it'll have to wait.

Oh if anyone is interested. The spec torque for the big caliper bolts is 95ft-lbs. :)

bsljacques, Thanks for the awesome write up to help me change my front shocks! I have one question, what exactly are you doing with the 2x4?? I know you have to remove the swaybar connection to get the shock assembly out, but what does the 2x4 do? Thanks

bsljacques, Thanks for the awesome write up to help me change my front shocks! I have one question, what exactly are you doing with the 2x4?? I know you have to remove the swaybar connection to get the shock assembly out, but what does the 2x4 do? Thanks

The 2x4 is just another way to lower the control arms to help install the shock assembly but by removing the sway bar bushings you are good to go without the 2x4.

Thanks drewcs, another question for you or anyone. With the truck on jack stands the suspension is basicly hanging.....so is there still a lot of pressure in the shock? I want to be able to get it out with out taking off my hand. If there is, what is the best way to get the bottom bolt out and slide the shock out?

Thanks drewcs, another question for you or anyone. With the truck on jack stands the suspension is basicly hanging.....so is there still a lot of pressure in the shock? I want to be able to get it out with out taking off my hand. If there is, what is the best way to get the bottom bolt out and slide the shock out?

Following bsljacques write-up, there wasn't an issue. When re-installing I did use a jack under the control arm to take a little pressure off the shock but I think I only needed to lift it about an inch or two at the most. The shock pretty much just slides in and out of position.

I also broke the bolt on the top of the shock. I ended up cutting my shocks in half with a sawzall, and then placed the rod of the shock in a vise so I could remove the bolt. Didn't take much time, but it would have been easier if I had new top mounting plates instead of dealing with the bolt. The ride is so much better with the HD shocks.

If I disconnect the sway bar at the bushings, it looks like the steering tie rod will still be in the way. How do I work around that, do I need to disconnect the tie rod as well?

Also do I need to disconnect the sway bar bushings while the truck is on the ground, correct? Not while it's jacked up?

If I disconnect the sway bar at the bushings, it looks like the steering tie rod will still be in the way. How do I work around that, do I need to disconnect the tie rod as well?

Also do I need to disconnect the sway bar bushings while the truck is on the ground, correct? Not while it's jacked up?

The tie rod does not interfere with the shock removal. Pivot the shock, bottom first, out and it should clear.

I disconected my sway bar while jacked up, the sway bar doesn't carry a load. Just be careful... Once you disconnect the bushings it will rotate forward towards the ground, and it's pretty heavy.

OK guys, I need some help........ I pulled out the drivers side shock assembly, compressed the spring and then sheared off the top of the shaft trying to get the retaining nut off. Grrrr. Now how do I get the retaining nut off with out the center shaft spinning around with the nut?????

OK guys, I need some help........ I pulled out the drivers side shock assembly, compressed the spring and then sheared off the top of the shaft trying to get the retaining nut off. Grrrr. Now how do I get the retaining nut off with out the center shaft spinning around with the nut?????

you might have to grind the nut off... :( another possiblity would be to clamp the shaft REALLY good while you attempt to remove the nut.

Thanks Koosh, not what I wanted to hear. Also, it seems like I am having to use quite a bit of force to get the spring compressed enough, even with a large socket wrench, i am having a tough time getting the spring compressed enough. Is this right? Should it be easier??

oh yeah... my friend and i were working it in tandem and it sucked... main thing to really remember using the spring compressor is to keep the pressure nice and even on both sides!... when we had the springs compressed to where it was easy to remove the strut the long bolts were bowed inward fairly obviously. Needless to say we did the switch as quick as you'd like and released the tension on the springs before warping the bolts too badly. We ended up bracing the spring on a cloth on the ground and against the 2X4 to get decent leverage and to keep the spring from skittering around too much.

Sounds horrible.... Did you use a socket wrench? Do you think am impact gun would work better?

I cut the piston shaft through the spring, and then placed the top part in a vise so I could take the top bolt off.

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wasn't really all that horrible thinking back. Just a little frusterating at times. lol. an impact wrench would have been awesome to have! If we had had one it would have probably taken us less than a quarter of the time it actually did. I'm not too sure an impact would work that great on getting that top nut off though... it would probably just shear the top bolt off even quicker! The best way to do it when you get to this stage is just nice slow and steady presure, lots of penetrating oil, and heat. I think the biggest reason it sheared on us was that we tried to rush it so we could be done already...:rolleyes:

Kooshtaka

I just spoke with the skockwarehouse, and they informed me that the Bilstein HD front shocks for the Titan would raise my Armada up two inches. Did you notice any additional lift and if so, how much?

I want to use the Bilsteins, but I really want to keep my ride height even with the back.

Kooshtaka

I just spoke with the skockwarehouse, and they informed me that the Bilstein HD front shocks for the Titan would raise my Armada up two inches. Did you notice any additional lift and if so, how much?

I want to use the Bilsteins, but I really want to keep my ride height even with the back.

Then get the 5100 and you going to be a stock level


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Kooshtaka

I just spoke with the skockwarehouse, and they informed me that the Bilstein HD front shocks for the Titan would raise my Armada up two inches. Did you notice any additional lift and if so, how much?

I want to use the Bilsteins, but I really want to keep my ride height even with the back.

That is not correct. Its the other way around. The HDs are fixed at the standard height; the 5100s have two settings, one stock and the other raises the front about 1.5 inches.

That is not correct. Its the other way around. The HDs are fixed at the standard height; the 5100s have two settings, one stock and the other raises the front about 1.5 inches.

I guess that's what I mean


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I installed the Bilstein HD's in front, NO increase in height.

I have seen some guys on here recommending the Rancho 9000XL for the rears. If you go to Rancho's website, they recommend the RS5000 for the Armada. Has anyone tried these for a stock height Mada?

Thinking about purchasing Bilstein HDs. Are these instructions applicable for struts with 2" spacer? Or would I have to disconnect the spindle to remove the strut?

Thinking about purchasing Bilstein HDs. Are these instructions applicable for struts with 2" spacer? Or would I have to disconnect the spindle to remove the strut?

Sid... You have a 2" spacer in front? How is it set up?

Kooshtaka

I just spoke with the skockwarehouse, and they informed me that the Bilstein HD front shocks for the Titan would raise my Armada up two inches. Did you notice any additional lift and if so, how much?

I want to use the Bilsteins, but I really want to keep my ride height even with the back.

As other members have said... Skockwarehouse got it messed up. The HDs will retain your stock height while the 5100s are adjustable. I got the 5100s and set it at the highest setting and it raised the front end up roughly 2"... I forgot to measure before and after so I can't quote you an exact height gain, but if you go to the highest setting (there are three, stock-bottom, medium, and high) you should see 2" lift in front. I think the middle one will bump you up maybe 1.25" ... of course I don't know anyone who has selected that height option yet. lol :D

I apologize for the bland question. What I meant was since I have the 2” spacer on the strut will the LCA lower enough so that I can pop out the strut...or is it at its max and will have to disconnect the spindle to remove the strut. But thanks for the info. :D

I apologize for the bland question. What I meant was since I have the 2” spacer on the strut will the LCA lower enough so that I can pop out the strut...or is it at its max and will have to disconnect the spindle to remove the strut. But thanks for the info. :D

LOL No worries Sid! I think it's a great question. It kinda prompts me to ask another though.... Why go with the HDs when you could have done the 5100s and simply removed the stocks w/spacer and "pop" in the maxed 5100s? lol I tend towards less parts needed to accomplish same goal is better thinking... less things that could possibly cause problems later. :D

From what I remember when I switched my stock shocks out for the maxed 5100s it was easy coming out but tight manouvering the 5100s in.

Since the HDs are setup to ride at same height as stocks you may just need to put some elbow greese into it and wont have to drop the spindle.

Yeah you're right I'll go with the 5100s. Thanks again for the info Kooshtaka. :thumbup:

Yeah you're right I'll go with the 5100s. Thanks again for the info Kooshtaka. :thumbup:

Any time Sid!

Good luck with your purchase and install... remember when removing stock strut- slow, steady, even presure and prolly less likey to shear! :)

:thumbup:

I just wanted to thank bsljacques for the great pics and tutorial. I've never replaced struts before and now I can say I did. Lucky for me, my neighbor stopped by and helped me through the procedure. I ended up redoing the right strut because I forgot to put the washer on that came with the shock.

One thing that I didn't realize from looking at the pics is that the spring/shock assembly is heavy. Getting the three posts back in their holes to remount the strut was very painful.

Shear determination got me through the project. I love them. The ride is so much better.:bow:

Update: I purchased the Bilstein HD's

I second the thanks to the OP. I just bought the HD's from shockwarehouse and will be installing them next week whenever they come in. I'm really looking forward to no bump steer. I had a set of micheling ltx ms2's installed and it made a big difference in bump steer too but didn't totally take it away (didn't expect it to). I also just bought a travel trailer so having bump steer is absolutely not an option now, not that it was before.