Has anyone performed the ECU reset described over in Club Titan on their Mada? My 05 does not seem to respond to the steps as described, and I was wondering if for some reason or another, the ECU reset descibed over there does not work on an 05 or higher Armada?

Your help is Greatly Appreciated..

ECU Reset on ClubTitan (http://www.clubtitan.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=3699)

works on mine.
Here it is. What is or isn't it doing? Are you seeing the flashing light lower left on the gauge cluster? Are you turning the key far enough? The windows will work if you have. Make sure you don't start it though. :confused:

ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stopwatch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.

Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

If this works, try this stuff also.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds
6. Repeat the following (steps 7&8) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
8. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
9. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
10. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
11. Start engine and let it idle.
12. Wait 20 seconds.
13. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

You have an 04 though don't you triple? I noticed that someone in that post replies that their 05 titan didn't work the exact same, but worked. Mine is definately turned to the "ON" position and I even had the wife stare at the stop watch to try for even more precision. There are no blinking lights anywhere on the cluster throughout the entire process and I tried to follow it to a T. Would this make a difference that I'm on 05? I did try the other things as well with 0 success.

This is really frustrating....I reprogrammed the A4, and I have reset the ECU on it several times (similiar to this process) but I have no luck here

:damn: :damn:

You have an 04 though don't you triple? I noticed that someone in that post replies that their 05 titan didn't work the exact same, but worked. Mine is definately turned to the "ON" position and I even had the wife stare at the stop watch to try for even more precision. There are no blinking lights anywhere on the cluster throughout the entire process and I tried to follow it to a T. Would this make a difference that I'm on 05? I did try the other things as well with 0 success.


This is really frustrating....I reprogrammed the A4, and I have reset the ECU on it several times (similiar to this process) but I have no luck here

:damn: :damn:
Mine's an '05. Light is in the area where the arrow is. It is not a very noticable light. ;)
http://www.clubarmada.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=1643&stc=1

Mine is an '05 as well. Just be patient. It took me about 6-7 tries to get it to work. Just keep doing it over and over again. You'll get it.

Right on! So to make sure, it is not the service engine soon idiot light? Thanks for the support guys, I'll just keep trying and see what happens!

Appreciate it!

Right on! So to make sure, it is not the service engine soon idiot light? Thanks for the support guys, I'll just keep trying and see what happens!

Appreciate it!

It IS the Service engine light. Doesn't actually say, "check engine light". It's the yellow light where Triple was pointing to that says "Service Engine Soon". It should light up and stay on when you turn the ignition on to ACC. You know you got it right when it starts blinking. Good luck. Have patience my young Jedi.

LOL...Ok. I'm definately feeling like anekin in Revenge of the Sith....I need more power master!!

I watched that light like no ones business....I will make it work....Oh yes, I will!!!!

Good, you show wisdom my young padawan. Make the ECU reset you will. And remember, do or do not. There is no try. ;)

:bow: :bow: The perfect wording of our favorite little green jedi master!!

That was great!

Didn't work for me either, had about ten goes with stopwatch.

Turn ignition on, wait 3 seconds da de da de da, enging light on (and battery light) all the time, doesn't go off and no blinking. Followed steps exactly.

My Armada was made 06/05, if that makes a difference?

Well I haven't found any information that Nissan switched ECU's at any time between the 04 and the 05's so, my guess is we are just off some how? Dunno, gonna make another go of it tonight, but I'm in you same boat, so, I will keep everyone posted.

Really want to reset everything for the new intake installation.... :usuck: :usuck:

Are you sure you are turning the switch to the Ignition position? It won't work if you turn it to the Acc. position. Turn to the second click, but not to the Start position.

Scr I thought the same thing until I went back up and double checked! Good call on the second position though, I could imagine that to be a piece that would be confusing, but not here. I guess it's a timing thing for me. I'm a drummer too!!... :duh:

Are you sure you are turning the switch to the Ignition position? It won't work if you turn it to the Acc. position. Turn to the second click, but not to the Start position.


Yes. I turn my key to just before start (says ON .3). All the check lights come on as normal (normal start) then go off within the 3 seconds except the engine light and battery light on the left side and oil pressure and something else (can't remember just now..).

Follow the instructions as given and nothing happens. engine light stays lit and never blinks??

Don't be too concerned about it. I did the reset procedure and didn't notice any difference. I think it's like when someone drops a K&N filter in and says they notice a difference, I think it's in the head.

Yoda lives!!!!

Good, you show wisdom my young padawan. Make the ECU reset you will. And remember, do or do not. There is no try. ;)

but what will "resetting the ECU" actually accomplish? Thanks in advance for the knowledge!

but what will "resetting the ECU" actually accomplish? Thanks in advance for the knowledge!
The ECU "learns" your driving habits. If you broke it in easy like I did, it will think you drive like a granny. By reseting the ECU, you can untap a large amount of power. You need to do this often as it will relearn to drive slow. Say once a week or every 500 miles or so. ;)

It wouldn't be very exciting but a video of this process would be cool!!

It wouldn't be very exciting but a video of this process would be cool!!

Took some video of the process yesterday. I'll have it up sometime today once I get home from work.

Can't wait to see it!! :goteam:


Took some video of the process yesterday. I'll have it up sometime today once I get home from work.

Right On Crushin!! Looking forward to viewing it myself. Thanks for the effort, hopefully it makes it crystal clear! :fantastic

Tried it myself about five times with no luck!! Need that video!! :clueless:

Can't just attach it like a photo. Trying to find a website to host it so I can setup a link to view it. Any ideas.

Can't just attach it like a photo. Trying to find a website to host it so I can setup a link to view it. Any ideas.

Yeah, who is your broadband provider? I get 5mb free with Road Runner from Time Warner Cable and some offer more than that with unlimited bandwith. I think even the DSL guys are offering this as well. Good luck!!

I'm going to try putfile.com They have a 25MB limit, I think the vid is 25.7MB, I'll have to edit it or something. I'll get it done. Promise

Okay here goes. This won't win any awards for film directing or synematography, but you should get the point. Don't know how crystal clear it will be, but take a look. I have an '05 LE for you doubting Thomas'.

It's a big file so be a little patient.

ECU Reset Video (http://media.putfile.com/ECU-Reset)

Hey crushin, that's a really good video my frind! Very helpful indeed! And a mighty fine tennis shoe at that!

Thanks for taking the time.

Author! Author! Good deal, but you forgot to video the burnout after. ;) :D

Good Stuff Man!!! :bow: :bow: Will try this later today!!

Okay here goes. This won't win any awards for film directing or synematography, but you should get the point. Don't know how crystal clear it will be, but take a look. I have an '05 LE for you doubting Thomas'.

It's a big file so be a little patient.

ECU Reset Video (http://media.putfile.com/ECU-Reset)

thanks flcrushin, I am not sure if anyone asked this, but do you have to reset the ECU only if you install the CAI & the CAT Back :confused:

Great news...First try after seeing crushin's video! Thanks again for the video Crushin! :excellent

thanks flcrushin, I am not sure if anyone asked this, but do you have to reset the ECU only if you install the CAI & the CAT Back :confused:

TB made a good point on this. The ECU is adaptive to your driving habits so if you drive like a grandma then your ECU will adapt accordingly with less performance and the inverse is also true. Should you decide that the local drag strip is looking pretty good or you've added some mods I would perform this procedure so the ECU will accomadate your needs.

TB made a good point on this. The ECU is adaptive to your driving habits so if you drive like a grandma then your ECU will adapt accordingly with less performance and the inverse is also true. Should you decide that the local drag strip is looking pretty good or you've added some mods I would perform this procedure so the ECU will accomadate your needs.

yup, I drive like a grandma, but soon I will be driving like a meniac from So.Cal. to Virginia. and I will reset it right before. ;)

I'm new to this issue. What does this ECU reset do that would not occur by disconnecting the negative battery cable overnight?

I haven't had the time to check the thread on the other board and did not find any specific explanation here.

I'm new to this issue. What does this ECU reset do that would not occur by disconnecting the negative battery cable overnight?

I haven't had the time to check the thread on the other board and did not find any specific explanation here.

My guess and this is only a guess is that some of the electronics have there own capacitence , long term battery back up, or even non-volital memory that is unaffected by the loss of the main battery or alternator power.

If the battery is disconnected the emission related data will be lost within 24 hours.(Such as the Diagnostic Trouble Codes) However, the air-fuel ratio feedback compensation value and other values are not eased. ( I guess they use a EEPROM).
The ECM is a learning computer, so it adjusts itself to the type of driving you do, as well as any mods you make. By reseting the ECM these values are set back to default, and the ECM will adjust itself to any mods or different driving styles.
I think the ECM will do this on its own over a period of time, but it appears to adjust itself quicker to different conditions if you reset it.

Hey crushin, that's a really good video my frind! Very helpful indeed! And a mighty fine tennis shoe at that!

Thanks for taking the time.

No prob, just trying to help out. And uh thanks about the shoe. As long as you don't talk about my ashy knees or compliment my legs we'll be okay (unless you are one of the many hot Armada Drivin Women on this site).

If the battery is disconnected the emission related data will be lost within 24 hours.(Such as the Diagnostic Trouble Codes) However, the air-fuel ratio feedback compensation value and other values are not eased. ( I guess they use a EEPROM).
The ECM is a learning computer, so it adjusts itself to the type of driving you do, as well as any mods you make. By reseting the ECM these values are set back to default, and the ECM will adjust itself to any mods or different driving styles.
I think the ECM will do this on its own over a period of time, but it appears to adjust itself quicker to different conditions if you reset it.

So I guess some of the data, like A/F ratio is stored in flash memory? Killing the power would not clear that. The sequence described must reflash it back to default value and shorten the "relearn" curve?

That's the way I understand it from studying the Service Manual and other sources.

Sorry crushin...I'm not one of those ladies, but your legs and knees are your own, sorry bubba :) I'm the one in the middle getting married!

Me and the guys (http://ruppelfamily.net/v-web/gallery/A8/100_0027?full=1)

Thanks, SCR38.

If the battery is disconnected the emission related data will be lost within 24 hours.(Such as the Diagnostic Trouble Codes) However, the air-fuel ratio feedback compensation value and other values are not eased. ( I guess they use a EEPROM).
The ECM is a learning computer, so it adjusts itself to the type of driving you do, as well as any mods you make. By reseting the ECM these values are set back to default, and the ECM will adjust itself to any mods or different driving styles.
I think the ECM will do this on its own over a period of time, but it appears to adjust itself quicker to different conditions if you reset it.

scr38......i've had my Volant and Magnaflow exhaust installed for over 6-8 months. when i initially got the two MODs, i disconnected the battery overnight.

i'm wondering if i should reset the ECM to get better performance? if i understand correctly, the computer should've adjusted to the MODs by now, right?

thx in advance!

It depends on how you drive. If you make slow starts, don't do full throttle acceleration, etc., the ECM will adjust itself to that type driving. It will also adjust itself to agressive type driving. So it depends on what you want to do. If you have been a "grandma" type driver and now want maximum performance then resetting the ECM may help.
Most people would call me an agressive driver. I don't do full throttle starts all the time, but I do usually accelerate away from the other traffic. And I tend to hit the throttle hard when passing. Also I do quite a few full throttle 1/4 mile runs doing tests. I have never reset my ECM since I do this type driving. I did have the initial timing kicked up to 18 degrees BTDC from the stock 15. I don't know if this reset the ECM at the same time, but the difference was very evident, not only by feel but backed up with G-Tech data.
So the short answer is, it won't hurt anything to reset the ECM, but, depending on how you drive, you may not see any difference.

It depends on how you drive. If you make slow starts, don't do full throttle acceleration, etc., the ECM will adjust itself to that type driving. It will also adjust itself to agressive type driving. So it depends on what you want to do. If you have been a "grandma" type driver and now want maximum performance then resetting the ECM may help.
Most people would call me an agressive driver. I don't do full throttle starts all the time, but I do usually accelerate away from the other traffic. And I tend to hit the throttle hard when passing. Also I do quite a few full throttle 1/4 mile runs doing tests. I have never reset my ECM since I do this type driving. I did have the initial timing kicked up to 18 degrees BTDC from the stock 15. I don't know if this reset the ECM at the same time, but the difference was very evident, not only by feel but backed up with G-Tech data.
So the short answer is, it won't hurt anything to reset the ECM, but, depending on how you drive, you may not see any difference.

i'm pretty much the same driver as you are, so resetting the ECM isn't necessary in my case.

but tel me how you kick up the timing? i'd be interested in doing this also. thx again!

The initial timing on the 5.6 engine is 15 deg BTDC. This can be incerased to 17 or sometines 18 degrees using the Consult 2 programmer. This means you will have to have a Nissan tech do this for you unless you know someone with a Consult 2. Many of the techs may not know how to do this, so the process is:

Warm up vehicle.
On CONSULT 2 screen choose ENGINE
After communication with Convertor will display a bunch of choices.
Press WORK SUPPORT
See more choices, press TARGET IGN TIMING
Press UP x2 for 2 degrees, correction which you should be able to see.
Press UPDATE.
Now press BACK
On the menu screen find IDLE AIR VOL LEARN.
Press, and perform to correct your idle since you just raised it 75rpm with timing advance.

My Armada used to bog off the line until I increased my timing. The advanced timing took out all the bog and made a significant decrease in my 0-60 times.

How's your mileage been since you advanced your timing SCR?

I can't say for sure if there has been a change in mileage. Most of my driving is done on the highway, usually 1.5 to 3.5 hours at a time. The conditions vary so much it is difficult to say if any of my mods have changed the mileage much. But my over all average is a little higher. I have Big Tow, with the lower gear ratio. I always have 500 to 700 pounds of load (in addition to my 260 pounds) in the Armada, and drive with the cruise set to 73 most of the time. A/C is always on.
My highest mileage under these conditions has been 18. This was just after the timing increase. Most of the time it is about 16.5. I have never driven my Armada very far without a load (that is why I got it) so I don't have any unloaded mileage figures.
I am not unhappy with my mileage. My Pathfinder that I had before the Armada got 16.6 with a little less load, and sure didn't have the performance and towing capabilities of the Armada.

Guys i have an 08 and the way you reset the ecu it wont work on my truck

You will have to go to the dealer for yours Scorpion!