I'm going to try a fabricate a new lid for the center console with some computer interface controls built in. I want to know if the following is the right way to do this.

I'm going to build on top of the stock lid, and use modeling clay to get the shape I want. Then wrap the lid in plastic wrap and put on a few layers of fiberglass using resin similar to paper macheing. Once it's hardened remove the modeling clay and glue the shell back on. Then some body glaze on top of that and a lot of sanding. Then paint to match the rest of the interior. Is this close to how you would do it? I'm assuming I need a special adhesive to glue the shell onto the factory lid. As far as the fiberglass goes will the fiberglass mesh tape that Lowes sells for covering the seams in cement board work? Where do you buy the resin? I'd assume somplace like napa? I understand from what I've read a respirator is a necessity too.

You can buy a fiberglas boat repair kit. It comes with the glass mat and the resin. The glass mat with the resin will produce a very rough surface. I would make the cover mock up like you described, but then make a plaster cast of it, using plaster of paris. Then you can lay up the glass in the mold. That way you will have a smooth outside surface on the cover.
After you make the plaster cast you can spray it with a little silicon or lightly rub it with Vasaline for a mold release. Then mix up some resin and paint the inside of the mold with the resin. Then lay the glass mat into the mold and work resin through the mat with a paint brush. Put enough resin on until the glass mat looks clesr. Then add another layer of mat and resin. Depending on how strong you want it, you may want to add a third layer of glass mat. Work quickly so the resin won't set up on you. You may want to mix up enough resin to do just one layer at a time so it won't set before you get it all done.
After the resin is set remove the cover from the mold, trim the ragged edges and clean with a solvent to remove any mold release. Then sand, prime and paint.
The fumes aren't that bad if you have plenty air circulation, such as in an open garage. But be sure to wear a dust filter when grinding/sanding the fiberglas part.
Also, when you finish sanding don't take a hot shower. Have the water fairly cold, and wash in only one direction; don't rub back and forth. The cold water will keep pores closed to keep out the glass fibers, and rubbing in one direction will wipe the fibers off rather than rubbing them in.
I know this because I used to do a lot of Corvette body repairs, as well as making custom fiberglas parts for some of the custom cars I have built.

Also, you may just want to attach the lid to the factory one with double sided tape. This way you can undo the attachment with minor damage to the factory lid if you want to sell later. Remove the black rubber insert, then you can drill holes under the insert. When you go to sell, just pop the insert back in and throw a plug into the hole. ;)

I thought of the mold thing and the only thing I see a problem with that is that the shell will be growing inwards and wouldn't fit back over the factory lid....I guess I could just make a clay layer 1/4 inch larger. Is a 1/4" thick enough for something like this. It probably only needs to hold about 40-50lbs, the weight of my daughter...

Here's some info
http://www.garbled.net/tim/fiberglass.html

I thought of the mold thing and the only thing I see a problem with that is that the shell will be growing inwards and wouldn't fit back over the factory lid....I guess I could just make a clay layer 1/4 inch larger. Is a 1/4" thick enough for something like this. It probably only needs to hold about 40-50lbs, the weight of my daughter...
1/4" is way more than needed. Depending on the design, 1/8" thick could easily support that weight.