Ok, I know it has be mentioned in other threads sort of indirectly.

1. What are your travel trailer experiences?

2. What is the biggest travel trailer you have pulled with an Armada? Or feel safe pulling.

3. Do's and Dont's for pulling a travel trailer.

I ask these questions because I plan on pulling one to Alaska and to have something to play with while I am up there. Oh, might even sell it prior to leaving. :D All help in this area will be greatly appreciated. And we might even get some of you guys out into the woods.

HAHAHA---wife will go camping if there is electricity and a t.v. :D

i've pulled the in-laws 25' toy box with 3 streetbikes in it. pulled great, even with my 22" tires. as far as the trailer itself, well, i love the toybox trailers. its so nice to be able to take everything with you, inside, locked up (as opposed to an open trailer). also, i dont know what they're called, and maybe all trailers come with them (my boat didnt) but the hitch helper deals that keep the trailer stable in turns and in the wind are awesome. sorry i dont have more info...

There are quite a few threads here regarding trailer towing with the Armada. The Armada and Titan make great tow vehicles. Make sure you get a good weight distribution hitch with integrated sway control (Equal-i-zer brand, or Reese Dual-Cam) and a good brake controller (I'm partial to the Tekonsha Prodigy). Hitch will run around $400, the brake controller around $100. Keep the trailer under about 7500 lbs fully loaded; remember, the maximum tow rating is for an empty vehicle with only the driver aboard; add stuff to your tow vehicle (including passengers), and your tow rating goes down accordingly.

For a lot more information on Rv-ing, including trips to Alaska, try www.rv.net/forums. A great place for information. Just beware of the folks that will tell you that you puny Nissan won't tow more than a pop-up!

Keith

It is not so much the size of the trailer, but the weight. Most toybox type trailers are quite a bit heavier per ft than a standard travel trailer because they have a much heavier frame to handle thousands of pounds of potential cargo. My Rage'n TB 2124LX (21' body/24' overall) weighs more than my last 26.5' (body) travel trailer. Same for trailers that have slide-outs, they will add weight as well as require a stronger frame to deal with the cantilevered extension. If you want to maximize your length look at "lite" trailers they are not constructed as heavy and some are slightly narrower and shorter in height to reduce frontal area. The problem with long trailers is the added sail area for cross-winds to hit and the leverage they can produce when they do sway. IMHO I would not exceed 6,200# dry weight toybox or 7,000# dry travel trailer or 27' in body length (lite). My thinking is that is real easy to add over 800# to a toybox (1ATV+1Dirt bike = 800#) that you could not do to a regular travel trailer. Invest in some kind of sway control type hitch as they only cost a little more than a plain hitch, could prevent a really bad day. I am using a plain type WD #1000 hitch with an add on friction sway control and it works fine, but it would have been wiser to get a integrated set-up like a Equal-i-zer type hitch.
Oh yeah, don't believe a word a RV salesman says on a heavier or longer trailer unless he is willing to allow a "test" tow,(to the scales?) all they want is your money and get you off the lot. AND it seems that virtually all the RV manufacturers under-state their weight so take the listed weight with a grain of salt.

Thanks guys for the help. Here are links to the 2 trailers I am considering at the moment. Im not leaving till June so the 2 options may change, but you get the idea of my thoughts so far.

http://keystone-sprinter.com/index.html?page=detail&model=291BHS&year=2007

http://keystone-passport.com/index.html?page=detail&model=280BH&year=2007

The passport is considerably liter than the sprinter which is good, but I question the structure. I will be using it in Alaska and would love to be warm on a cold night. The lengths are tongue to bumper.

What are your thoughts about my choises so far?

Just my personal preference, but I think both of those are too long. >30' won't fit in a lot of campgrounds, particularly in Alaska. Our 26' tongue to bumper is the max for a lot of campgrounds we like to visit. Now, if you like RV parks, then you'll be able to fit.

Also, >30' is a bit longue for something with our wheelbase. I'd start looking a little smaller if I were you.

We went to the big RV show in Pomona this year, I really liked this floorplan http://www.fleetwoodrv.com/brandtomodel/floorplan.aspx?brand=prowler/pr&m=270FQS. Lots of floor space, plus you can use it with the slide pulled in if you need to (say, for an overnight stop in a rest area or along the side of the road). Our Prowler has been flawless in the four plus years we've owned it. This floorplan is also available as a Terry or Wilderness, the same trailer, just with different graphics and interior colors. Typical prices for this trailer, with all the options you'd want, is around $18K.

I want to emphasize again, don't scrimp on the hitch or the brake controller. You'll regret it later. I would strongly suggest that you buy this equipment up front, because your trailer dealer will charge you through the nose for it (yeah, they'll tell you that they are throwing it in for free, but they get you one way or the other). Expect to get at least 20% off of the MSRP of your trailer.

And, finally, ask lots of questions, and then validate the answers (including my comments). You can't have enough information, and Cillyone is 100% right, the RV dealers only want your money, and they'll say anything to get it (of course, your truck will pull this, no problem!!!!!).

Keith

Agreed, the Armada would pull them. But would it handle them safely in adverse situations? I'd look for something a little shorter, like <28'. The Armada is a really good 1/2ton SUV TV, but it is still just a 1/2ton SUV and these long trailers are in realm of a longer wheelbase TV.
BTW, I would not trust those listed weights.

I'll second the opinions of Campfamily and Cillyone. An anti-sway device and a quality brake controller are a must. I have the Equalizer and a Prodigy. I'm towing a 24' enclosed trailer which weighs about 6500lbs. with the race car and all my gear. Always take the weight of what you will put into the trailer into consideration. Lastly, get a good set of tow mirrors.

AHHH the tow mirrors.

Do I just get the OEM tow mirrors? My current mirrors are none folding, but have heat and electric adjust.

Is it plug and play?

My understanding is that they are plug and play. Nissan offers OEM tow mirrors for vehicles with and without memory. Both are power and heated.

http://www.courtesyparts.com/armada/tow.html

There are other aftermarket solutions that are good if you do not want to spend the money on the OEM mirrors. Do a search on Tow Mirrors and you will find several threads on the subject.

Someone posted a link to some sturdy mirror extensions, if you do not want to do a full mod. If I find it, I'll post it!

Someone posted a link to some sturdy mirror extensions, if you do not want to do a full mod. If I find it, I'll post it!

I think it was cillyone..

Good call.

Here is the link!
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5469&highlight=Mirror

Another question......what type of gas mileage did you guys get? I know its gonna be scary but I just want to know. Prepare myself.

Another question......what type of gas mileage did you guys get? I know its gonna be scary but I just want to know. Prepare myself.

I think they mentioned this somewere between 9 to 11.

I think they mentioned this somewere between 9 to 11.

Yep. Between 9 and 11, depending on how fast I go, and the steepness of the hills, and how much wind.

Keith

Well, I was getting worst gas mileage when towing a small 5x8 with my durango. 9 to 11 really isnt that bad. I figured much worst.

7-9 mpg for me. That is a result of the tall trailer acting as a wind sail. The rig will slow down going down hills on the highways. I found that driving at a steady 65mph helps keep the fuel mileage closer to 8-9mpg.

I was wondering how to tell if I have memory tow mirrors? I never change the side mirror and if I did its usually with the key in the ignition.....I guess i could use wife's key. :confused:

I was wondering how to tell if I have memory tow mirrors? I never change the side mirror and if I did its usually with the key in the ignition.....I guess i could use wife's key. :confused:

I think all LE's have memory mirrors. If you have memory seats, you have memory mirrors.........I'm pretty sure.

Well that just cost me and extra $30.00 :)

Well that just cost me and extra $30.00 :)

What do you mean bro?

Mirrors without memory are like $336.00 / with memory is $360.00.

Which is better for stabalizing your travel trailer?

Hensley Arrow or Equal-i-zer brand or Reese Dual-Cam

I have not towed with any of them but the popular concenses @rv.net seems to have the Hensley Arrow on top with the other two pretty much equal but good. This seems to be in-line with the prices too.

Dustoff-00 what kind of trailer are going to tow?

I tow a 23" (tongue to bumper) travel trailer, and I don't use a WDH or sway control.

This is the one I am strongly considering. It is lite and has plenty of room. Especially with two sliders.

http://www.houseofcamping.com/database/inventory_item.asp?id=143264

I realize the weight that is advertised on this site is very low. I have done my research and have found that this thing weighs in at around 6600lbs dry.

Which is better for stabalizing your travel trailer?

Hensley Arrow or Equal-i-zer brand or Reese Dual-Cam

I strongly recommend the Equalizer brand. Very easy to setup and use. The setup directions are excellent.

No matter which one you choose it will definately improve the stability of the truck and trailer. The first time I towed the trailer home, it didn't take much to get it to sway. Crosswinds and large trucks would unsettle it. The Equalizer hitch has greatly reduced the trailer movement and makes my trips (anywhere from 4 - 12 hours) a lot less stressful.

Here's a pic of the trailer.
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2211&d=1143080536

Which is better for stabalizing your travel trailer?

Hensley Arrow or Equal-i-zer brand or Reese Dual-Cam

Hensley Arrow is the best, since it's design actually prevents the sway. It also costs around $2000 to $2500. The other two are about equal in performance, but take a different approach to stopping sway than the Hensley Arrow, in that they damp sway after it occurs, rather than preventing the sway from starting in the first place. I'd love a Hensley Arrow, but I think the other two do a fine job for the kind of towing we do with our Armadas. I personally prefer the Equal-i-zer brand, less parts, easy to set up, no adjustments needed after setup. But, whatever you do, don't listen to the people that claim you'll be okay without any weight distribution or sway control; under normal towing conditions, you don't need these systems. When you need them is in those conditions that cause sway, and will cause you to have problems. Examples: you hit an unexpected 30 mph side gust, or a 18 wheeler or bus passes you at 90 mph while you are going 60, or you have to slam on the brakes to make an emergency stop at freeway speeds. Any of these conditions can cause you to find yourself jacknifed on the side of the road. Those who tow without these systems don't know how close to the edge of the safety envelope they really are. $400 is a small price to pay for the safety of your family.

Not to sound like the weight police, but, I'll say this again. Don't let the cool floorplans convince you to buy a trailer too heavy. You have a 9100 lb tow rating on your Armada. That is with an empty vehicle (driver only). Every pound you add to the truck (people, options, snacks, etc.) decreases your tow rating pound for pound. Second, a dry trailer weight is not real. Add at least 10% for misc stuff, before you add your gear. Better, do all of your calculations on trailer GVWR, not dry weight. Then, allow about 5 to 10% for a safety margin. I personally would not tow a trailer with a GVWR over about 7500 lbs. I think anything more would be too heavy.

Just my 2cents worth, and hope to see you in a campground some day....

Keith

Thanks for the heads up on the W/D hitch. As for the weight, there is a guy on one of the rv'ing forums that I have been reading who has an 04 Mada that tows the exact rv I am looking at. He claims not to have any problems. I realize the weight of the trailer maxes out around 7700 lbs. (claim + 5%) and will not travel without some sort of stab system. I personally wont buy one without a test run. My wife insists on it. Gonna buy prodogy and w/d system before I go to test run rv. That way I know what I am getting.

I am with Camp on this one. Some questions I didn't think of asking before; Have you ever towed anything this large before? Are you good at backing trailers into tight spots? I have been towing my whole adult life (I am 51) and I think I am pretty good at backing up trailers, my toybox has 6 inches clearance on each side at the tight-spot backing into the backyard of my house. I would not want to try to fit a trailer 10' longer in ANY of the campgrounds sites (primitive type, no hook-ups) I have been to. You are going to be very limited to available sites with that length. After my kids are gone I am going back to a truck camper. The beauty of the TC is you can go and park virtually anywhere a car can go and DMV is not involved.

Yes, I have been towing a while. What I tow varies though. The longest I have pulled was over 60ft. (see avatar). I have had to position 12 of those in very close proximity to each other many times. 3 in the back of a rather large airplane. True, not the long distance stuff yet. Biggest I have taken long distance was Dad's 26ft boat. Have done many trips with that thing. None recently. Typically, its just my 5x8 trailer.

Do I feel confident,,,yes. Am I causious,,,always. I am only 41 but started towing stuff when I was about 17. Not nearl as long as some, but I am still young. :D

Hmmm... sounds like you're the guy loading the stuff in the back of my C-17! :)

Hmmm... sounds like you're the guy loading the stuff in the back of my C-17! :)

If you delivered to Azzcrackistan Jan 02, that would have been me.

The best part is, you are asking all of the right questions, and making an informed decision, whatever it ends up being. I know way too many people that bought RVs (and other high ticket items) without doing adequate research, and end up with something they can't or don't want to use. Keep asking, and we'll keep providing our opinions!

Keith

The best part is, you are asking all of the right questions, and making an informed decision, whatever it ends up being. I know way too many people that bought RVs (and other high ticket items) without doing adequate research, and end up with something they can't or don't want to use. Keep asking, and we'll keep providing our opinions!

Keith

Roger that,,,As I tell other pilots; I give/tell you my experiences because there is no way you can have them all in your lifetime.

You dont know what you dont know until you ask the questions.

BTW, thanks for the info.:)

WOW, that last post was way too deep for a Monday morning. :eek:

WOW, that last post was way too deep for a Monday morning. :eek:

Sounds like one of those "quotes of the month"!:D

You dont know what you dont know until you ask the questions.

You mean this sounds like the quote of the month?

Sounds like a new thread to me.:rolleyes:

Another post elsewhere on this forum reminded me of another issue you need to be concerned with, and that is tongue weight. This should ideally be about 10 to 12% of the total trailer weight. The max tongue weight for the Armada is 910 #s. Also, make sure you don't exceed the GVWR of the truck with the trailer tongue weight. This is a typical shortcoming of all 1/2 ton tow vehicles.

Keith

I was reading the other thread about tongue weight. The advertised tongue weight of the TT I am interested in is only 677lbs. I am very aware about proper loading to keep things balanced.

Thanks for the help. Sent you a pm for the program BTW.

I was in the same boat you are in now back at the begining of last year.
You have already gotten some great information here. Look around at some of the RV forums. They are about the nicest people who are willing to help out a newbe.
We ended up with a Springdale: I can't seem to add the pic so here is the link http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o111/More_D/?action=view&current=IMGP0090.jpg


I don't want to discourage you from TT but from the examples you have listed you are way over! Looks to me like you are looking at the dry weight of the TT. That does you no good! For example you looked at the Sprinter 291BHS. That DRY weight is 6725. That is without A/C Or awning. You must look at the complete weight, 6725(dry)+2785(carrying capacity)=9510+A/c and awning approx 500 more lbs .

I would be will to bet my lunch money that if you headed up to Alaska for a while that be for you leave you will be REALLY over loaded. Buy a TT accordingly.

I bought the Equal-i-zer hitch and the Prodogy controller and I can't enough great things about both. If you have the Tow package(hope you do) than you can install the controller your self easly with the Nissan wireing harness.

There are some really good tips in the previous posts!
I bought for our TT for 26% off retail including the hitch and install and I am about as far from where they make our TT as you can get.
MPG in the AZ high country is 7-9mpg in 5-9% hills, 10-11 in the flats.


Good luck!

Thanks for the help. I have since changed my TT design. I am looking closer at the Rockwood 8318ss. It has a much lighter tongue weight and dry is also alot less.

As for the amount of weight I will be taking up there; I will be sending most. I will be packing about 8 days worth of clothing for myself +3 family members. I will also have a 5500watt generator. Everything except the family will be in the TT. I dont plan of loading the TT until I get up there. My programed stops will be too short in duration unless I am stopping at relatives homes. Minus the ocassional rest area stop to catch a knap. Its just so much more expensive to buy a TT in Alaska, and too much stuff to do without one.

Thanks for the help. I have since changed my TT design. I am looking closer at the Rockwood 8318ss. It has a much lighter tongue weight and dry is also alot less.

As for the amount of weight I will be taking up there; I will be sending most. I will be packing about 8 days worth of clothing for myself +3 family members. I will also have a 5500watt generator. Everything except the family will be in the TT. I dont plan of loading the TT until I get up there. My programed stops will be too short in duration unless I am stopping at relatives homes. Minus the ocassional rest area stop to catch a knap. Its just so much more expensive to buy a TT in Alaska, and too much stuff to do without one.

Have you looked into renting one up there? When my wife and I spent a three weeks up in Alaska about 12 years ago, that is what we did, it worked very well.

Keith

Have you looked into renting one up there? When my wife and I spent a three weeks up in Alaska about 12 years ago, that is what we did, it worked very well.

Keith

Yes we did, it was not very cost effective for what you were getting.

Dustoff, perhaps you and I should buy a set of trailers before going up there? Volume discount? ;) I'm somewhat considering one, and keeping in mind that it would cost much more if I wait until I get up to Alaska. You seem to be much more set on getting one, though, than me.

Dustoff, perhaps you and I should buy a set of trailers before going up there? Volume discount? ;) I'm somewhat considering one, and keeping in mind that it would cost much more if I wait until I get up to Alaska. You seem to be much more set on getting one, though, than me.

I wonder if TT dealers do things like that? As stated in an earlier thread, I am looking into a Rockwood 8318SS. The cheapest place I have found was just south of Chicago. $20K. He is looking into shipping costs now for me, depending on the shipping cost, will determine whether I buy local or out of state. Wonder what he would do for 2 of them?

Dustoff, I'm reading some very good things about RVWholesalers and RVDirect. You may want to check them out.

Dustoff, I'm reading some very good things about RVWholesalers and RVDirect. You may want to check them out.

There is also a place called House of Camping. They have prices which match those 2 guys you have listed plus they throw in surround stereo system, and a few other items. Shipping was $1200 from just south of Chicago. Im going today to check on one local, if he can match the price I will be coming home with one today. If not, we can try and get the 2 for 1 special.:D