hey guys, just wondering if anyone has any experience with the new rancho "quick lift" products. i sell rancho stuff at work, so i can get it at cost, which is cool!! from what i read in their catalog (not a lot of info really) the front strut is longer to provide the lift, so the spring rate it not effected. the rear is listed but i think its a spacer. it says a 34" tire will fit, so my 325/60-18s oughta be perfect. let me know if you guys know anything about this!!!

Been thinking about this for a while. Been meaning to ask Greg if a Mini-Lift could also be used with it. Only problem I see would be the rear.. as it is, I had to minipulate my auto-level sensor to get my 2+ inch height out of the kit.

Like Chris said, I would talk to Greg first. I don't know how much you'll be saving but when I'm finished with my PRG, I'm aiming to have 3.5" in the rear that should sit well with the 2.5" that are in the front for less than $400.00 of total spent.

YO....YO..... i been studying up on this one ever since it had come out... i have been looking for a kit that would let me up but not that high... i love mini and wide... looks great and i get more compliments than the higher ones... well this kit is a sick kit... i have the full instructions on the install and everything... but about the PRG kit with this kit i talked to everyone and they say not to do it but its not thier SUV so keep your comments to your selves... hehehehe.... but if you get the full kit with the Quick Lift set up I think that you are able to use the PRG kit with it because you already can use the kit with your stocks with no probs... the rear end of the Rancho is the same set up like the Pro Comp but 3/4 the size.. you have to do the same installation as the pro comp but the pieces are shorter... hope to help any one with the questions about this kit.... and YES I AM VERY INTERESTED IN THIS KIT.... Alohaz from Honolulu Hawaii.... hehehehhee....

That Rancho Kit looks HOT!!! Looks like it includes most if not all of the reinforcement hardware and the 4" front and rear is an ideal height for most lifts.

How much is it running for at Full Retail?? The only price I could find was $1550.00 plus $134 for the Front RS9000XL shocks (required). With the ProComp 6"-Front / 4"-Rear being on sale for $1,255.74 w/ free shipping at 4-Wheel Parts, that would be a tough decision if you don't have to worry about a parking garage.

Like Chris said, I would talk to Greg first. I don't know how much you'll be saving but when I'm finished with my PRG, I'm aiming to have 3.5" in the rear that should sit well with the 2.5" that are in the front for less than $400.00 of total spent.

POPS, i did the 2wd PRG on my 4wd LE. It just gives a taller lift up front, with the rear being the same size spacer.

I would love to know how you are going to set up your rear for 3.5" over stock. :drool:
Reason I ask, if you are even looking to share is because with just putting a larger spacer between the stock spring and lower a-arm, your camber is going to be all out of wack. There is a time when there just is no more adjustment in the stock rear a-arm to correct it.
For ****s and giggles, I played with the sensor to put me up over 3" in the rear, but there was way to much positive camber, that im not sure would even be able to be corrected.

Mucho props to you if you got this idea locked down, and a pretty please on sharing it with me. :D :D

I'm definitely going to share but I want to make absolutely sure that it's going to work before I started telling everyone but here it goes.

Basically, Greg accidentally sent me the 2wd kit and offered to swap it out but I like the front the way that it is. Like you, I played with the sensor and drove around for a full day with that puppy maxed out to watch the camber adjust and was surprised with what I saw. I asked Greg to make another 1-1/2" spacer for the rear and I have a local shop working with me on the alignment and they are as intrigued as I am so we're going to try to nail that Camber adjustment down with our fingers crossed. Greg is willing to work with me on this and he seems very interested in the results so with any luck, I am hoping that we all might have an additional option available to us soon.

Like Chris said, I would talk to Greg first. I don't know how much you'll be saving but when I'm finished with my PRG, I'm aiming to have 3.5" in the rear that should sit well with the 2.5" that are in the front for less than $400.00 of total spent.

i can get the front struts on this "quick-lift" deal for $115 each. the reason i dont just throw a prg kit in is i wanna replace the struts too. newbiedrew was sayin that replacing his struts with the rs9000x made his crazy armada bump steer go away. if i cant get this bumpsteer to stop i'm thinkin about sellin this rig and buying a tahoe, it drives me nuts. so this is the best way for me to get a lift and replace the struts.

Got my attention! So, the front quick lift shocks are adjustable, then hey, might be a good way to go?

Questions / concerns:
Is the ride height adjustable whenever you want?
Does the suspension geometry change when you adjust the ride height?
It says the rear is not avaliable for the auto level rear - need a workaround like you guys are talking about?
I would want the system with the most suspension travel. My guess would be the quick lift?
The quick lift appears to have coils too - how is this going to change your ride and spring characteristics?
Easy to install with the rancho coil into the stock coil?
Is the ride height adjustable whenever you want?
Greg PRG needs to comment too.

Pops is being a beta tester for us - thanks pops. Maybe there are some other camber bolts or grinder fixes that can help the rear camber. I did have this issue when installing the PRG and the camber is maxed out to get the rear alignment. :mad:

Norcal, maybe you could test the quick lift for us? I don't miss the bump steer. Got rid of it before the new tires too. :)

i can get the front struts on this "quick-lift" deal for $115 each. the reason i dont just throw a prg kit in is i wanna replace the struts too. newbiedrew was sayin that replacing his struts with the rs9000x made his crazy armada bump steer go away. if i cant get this bumpsteer to stop i'm thinkin about sellin this rig and buying a tahoe, it drives me nuts. so this is the best way for me to get a lift and replace the struts.
There's no question that the Rancho Kit is a much better way to go and it is advertised for the Titan on PerformanceLifts.com as reducing Bump Steer. I wonder if the ProComp helps with Bump Steer too, it looks like it would.

Anyway, it looks like it could handle just about anything that's thrown at it.

As for the PRG, I just finished installing the second set of rear spacers an hour ago and ran through a couple of bumby fields to let the rear settle. All I can say right now is that this is the Bomb!!! Lifting from the Springs sets a different angle than lifting from the bags so any Negative Camber is not visibly noticaeble right now by looking at it. It brought the rear fender well to be a 1/2" taller than the front 2.5" spacer. The Running board fronts are 12" off the ground and the rear are 13" off the ground. I'll talk to Greg tomorrow to let him know and then this Saturday, I'll get the rear aligned and ask for the mechanics' blessings then post some new pics with more measurements and details for better visualization. If the camber is too far out of wack, I'll be hittting all the 4x4 shops looking for a camber kit or try finding someone who's willing to design one.

Nice POPS, now everyone is going to drool.

Keep us posted about the alignment.

Somebody do the qucklift please.

POPS, take a measurement from bottom lip of the center of the fender well, to the floor please.. front and rear.

Ill post mine again after I re-take them. I forgot them already. :D

POPS, take a measurement from bottom lip of the center of the fender well, to the floor please.. front and rear.

Ill post mine again after I re-take them. I forgot them already. :D
Will do tonight. :D

Got my attention! So, the front quick lift shocks are adjustable, then hey, might be a good way to go?

Questions / concerns:
Is the ride height adjustable whenever you want?
Does the suspension geometry change when you adjust the ride height?
It says the rear is not avaliable for the auto level rear - need a workaround like you guys are talking about?
I would want the system with the most suspension travel. My guess would be the quick lift?
The quick lift appears to have coils too - how is this going to change your ride and spring characteristics?
Easy to install with the rancho coil into the stock coil?
Is the ride height adjustable whenever you want?
Greg PRG needs to comment too.

Pops is being a beta tester for us - thanks pops. Maybe there are some other camber bolts or grinder fixes that can help the rear camber. I did have this issue when installing the PRG and the camber is maxed out to get the rear alignment. :mad:

Norcal, maybe you could test the quick lift for us? I don't miss the bump steer. Got rid of it before the new tires too. :)

ok, so even though i sell rancho products, i cant seem to get much info on this. think i mihgt just do it, if it sucks, i'll ditch it. i'll try to answer the questions here:

not adjustable, the strut is longer, and you re-use the factory coil.

for the rear i am still going to use a prg spacer.

quick lift will not offer anymore travel than a prg lift, the coil is the same size, its just the strut that is extended.

i'm pretty sure its not adjustable, so you wouldnt have to worry about "changing the front end geometry".

we'll see guys, i think i'm gonna order this stuff. i gotta get some for sure answers from rancho first. i'll keep you posted.

Just an FYI, you can get the longer Bilstien struts for the front from PRG.

Rears with air-level, they were going to be making an extension bracket to reuse the stock air shocks..

....for the rear i am still going to use a prg spacer.....
The second set of spacers I got in yesterday were the full 1.5" spacers that give the 2" of lift. I haven't been able to reach Greg yet to confirm but I'm assuming that it's due to the spring weight-to-compression ratio but I got only 1" more out of it which made the rear a PERFECT 3" lift and still leaves me with an additional 2.5" before maxing out the stock Shock length which I haven't been able to get it to hit yet. I'll be trying to hit some rougher areas this weekend to see if it will bump out or not.

As soon as I get the alignment results this weekend, I'll post the info so that you might be able to consider using double spacers on the rear too. If you do, you'll just want to be sure to talk to Greg about the pricing on the second set to see if maybe he might be able to cut a little discount. ;)

Going to measure mine now...

Going to measure mine now...
If it helps for now, I know for a fact that I have 6.5" between the tire and center fender on the front and 7.0" measuring the same place on the rear with my stock Tires.

From ground to center/bottom edge of fenders..

FRONT 38 1/2"
REAR 38 1/4"

Stock all around before lifting was a solid 36".

From ground to center/bottom edge of fenders..

FRONT 38 1/2"
REAR 38 1/4"

Stock all around before lifting was a solid 36".
I just quickly measured with a barrowed Tape Measure using the Wheel Center to align with. I'll get more accurate measurements tonight using a level to make sure I'm getting the center and make sure that I'm on level ground which I know I'm not level right now.

FRONT 37 3/4"
REAR 38 3/4"


I'm not sure what my Stock was before installing.

ordered the rancho, should have it installed by sunday. we'll see...

Final measurements are:

FRONT 37 1/2"
REAR 38 1/4"

Here's some quick pics. You can see that the Camber does not appear to be off but this weekend's measurements will tell for sure.

http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5076&stc=1&d=1189044461
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5077&stc=1&d=1189044484

The rear looks too high. Ha ha. Looks good. Hopefully the camber is ok.

Norcal - good luck and I will do a bye bye bump steer dance for you.

Thanks all for the valueable info.

thanks for helpin me out pops. so you have over 4" of spacer in the back??? thats nuts. looks about right though! mine sits up higher in the rear already, so the prg 2/2.2" seems odd to me. we'll see... maybe i'll double up the rear too!!!

..... so you have over 4" of spacer in the back??? thats nuts.....
Hahaha!!! That's what Greg said too when I was asking him about it. He told me "that's nuts" and "I'm killing him". The fact is these rear spacers are actually 1.5" thick each and are supposed to leverage out to 2" of space. From what I've been seeing, the leveraging is so dynamic that there is no consistency to it so I figured we could "play" with it as long as he is willing to help out and he said that he's always game for new ideas.

So im still higher all around with the same front as you, and less of a spacer in the rear? :confused:

Even towed my truck around this week, the auto level worked perfect, and the ride was unchanged.

http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5078&stc=1&d=1189073247
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=5079&stc=1&d=1189073332

That Rancho Kit looks HOT!!! Looks like it includes most if not all of the reinforcement hardware and the 4" front and rear is an ideal height for most lifts.

How much is it running for at Full Retail?? The only price I could find was $1550.00 plus $134 for the Front RS9000XL shocks (required). With the ProComp 6"-Front / 4"-Rear being on sale for $1,255.74 w/ free shipping at 4-Wheel Parts, that would be a tough decision if you don't have to worry about a parking garage.
Good points. I like the Rancho construction much more, but the price point is off. I would think they should be comparable and the shocks should be included in the kit. BTW, 4wheelparts is a great place to get it. They will also do the install for a reasonable price.

So im still higher all around with the same front as you, and less of a spacer in the rear? :confused:

Even towed my truck around this week, the auto level worked perfect, and the ride was unchanged.
Well, this whole thing has me totally confused. I still don't know for sure whether I got the 2" or 2.5" front end. I just know that the rear was about .5" to 1" shorter and Greg said he thinks he might have sent me the wrong one. If I could get another .5" into the front-end, I'd be all over that too. :D

Me thinks that I might jack it up tonight and see if I can put a Tape Measure to a Front Spacer to see for sure. I'm not sure if I can get to it without a dreaded disassembling but it's worth a shot.

POPS ill PM you my number if you wanna talk about it later tonight.. ill be at work. :)

So im still higher all around with the same front as you, and less of a spacer in the rear?

I just finished measuring my front spacer and it's 1-1/4" so he did send me the correct 2" 4x4 front spacer in the first place so that explains why I'm shorter in the front, I'm just not sure why an entire inch instead of a 1/2".

As for the rear, I'm still confused why I used 2 spacers and still ended up the same height as your single spacer, but that does make me more confident that the Camber will be OK. Maybe my springs are weaker or something, but there's got to be something that's different. I am guessing that yours will probably still be fine with a second set of rear spacers too. Measure the distance between the top of your tire and the bottom of your fender edge. You should have 9" - 9-1/2" when the shocks are maxed out so as long as you keep an average of 2" of give in there, you should be Ok because It's tough to make these trucks bounce that last 2" higher in there and would probably come real close to requiring your wheels to leave the ground to make it happen. I've also been told that due to the alignment requirements, they are higher after driving in reverse so I've made sure to pull forward for a few feet before measuring.

I think I'm going to leave it as is if I can because I'm concerned that if I trade out the front spacers for 2.5", then my Front will be taller than the Rear again and I kinda like the stance that it has right now.
:D :crikey: :D

Stance actually looks perfect, Pops.

Splitting hairs on messing with 0.5 inches.

Ours is 38 1/2 front, 38 1/4 rear with new Nittos but stock diameter so the same as the conti's in diameter.

Thanks Drew!!!! I spoke to Alex at PRG this morning. He said that our springs are not a consistent strength on our vehicles and is probably not noticeable because of the Air Suspension to help and mine happens to be softer than most so that's why I only gained about 1" per 1.5" spacer. No wonder why it rides so smooth. :D

I'm confused now. So normally the PGR spacers will provide the 2" lift but in your case, it didn't so you needed more spacer. Did I get that right?

I'm confused now. So normally the PGR spacers will provide the 2" lift but in your case, it didn't so you needed more spacer. Did I get that right?
That's the way it looks. Isn't that nuts?? After installing all of the spacers, my rear was shorter than the front when they should've been even. I added in a second set of spacers to the rear and now it's sitting at the same height as Chris' and Drew's. This isn't rocket science, it's just a matter of easily dropping a spacer under the springs so I couldn't have messed it up too bad.

Mine still rides smoooooooth even while towing my show truck as pictured above.

Wifey wants a ProComp lift, so its time to go bigger anyway. :D :D :D

I just finished with the alignment. The Camber is too far off so we just cranked it as close as it could go and then lined the Toe dead center. I'm going to be looking into maybe having my springs replaced under warranty next week. It'll be tough to prove that mine are enoughweaker than most for justification but I'm taking a shot at it. I'll also be trying to find something to adjust the camber with like maybe some lower A-Arm extenders or something.

Had the same problem - got the toe dead on and the camber was at 0.75 degrees. The funny thing is that when got the toe dead on it really whacked the camber because the adjustment of either one effected the other if that makes sense. We are happy with the ride and just called it good and will try to rotate the tires more often.

Had the same problem - got the toe dead on and the camber was at 0.75 degrees. The funny thing is that when got the toe dead on it really whacked the camber because the adjustment of either one effected the other if that makes sense. We are happy with the ride and just called it good and will try to rotate the tires more often.
I really think that's just part of using spacers alone. It really makes total sense once you see it while you're under there turning the wrenches. I figure outside wear on the tires will be ok as long as the toe is inline to prevent unnecessary stress on the drivetrain. The thing is, this is so easy to fix, it's just a matter of finding someone who's willing to sell or make a part that will do it.

Get yourself some cam bolts from NAPA.

Get yourself some cam bolts from NAPA.
They'll know which ones are needed??

check specialty performance products http://www.spcperformance.com/ this is the company that supplies all the camber kits i use at work. i think they offer an extended cam for our rigs.

They'll know which ones are needed??

Most auto parts stores sell them. Any good alighnment shops will also carry them.

The ones we need will most likely resemble the ones i needed for my Ford.

Here's a quick pic i got off Google for you...

Thanks Guys!!! :bow: I'm going to start calling around for these to see what I can find locally before trying to order online. I'm sure to mess it up if I try to guess the right ones myself.

hey, let me get this right: your truck now has to much positive camber? does your truck have the factory adjustment cams in it now for rear camber adjustment?

hey, let me get this right: your truck now has to much positive camber? does your truck have the factory adjustment cams in it now for rear camber adjustment?
I think it's positive camber, when looking from the rear the tires are angled a little like a 'V' and will wear the outside edge faster than the inside. Yes, it is still the factory adjustment cams.

Thanks Guys!!! :bow: I'm going to start calling around for these to see what I can find locally before trying to order online. I'm sure to mess it up if I try to guess the right ones myself.

Fear not POPS, its not rocket science here. Good alighnment shops will have them and be able to set you straight the first time around.

.... Good alighnment shops will have them and be able to set you straight the first time around.
Not around here they don't. These folks around here aren't familiar enough with Nissan, they're primarily Chevy, Ford, Dodge, and Jeep and right now I'm the only one in the state with any kind of a lift on an Armada. :D

Not around here they don't. These folks around here aren't familiar enough with Nissan, they're primarily Chevy, Ford, Dodge, and Jeep and right now I'm the only one in the state with any kind of a lift on an Armada. :D

dude the rear susp on the armada is no different from an expedition. if you've got the rear adjustment cams all the way in theonly thing you can do is to take the cam out and elong-gate the hole. if you need more info on that pm me.

Exactly.

I would first find another shop to take my truck to. Anyone that can't figure out what a cam bolt kit is or does, has no business doing alighnments.

Study the pic i posted, then look at your stock setup... you will then understand how the additional adjustment is build into these cams.. compared to stock.

Ok, I finally got some Cam bolts and spent a few hours under there trying to figure out how to get them to work. Here's what I'm seeing, the front would be a piece of cake because there is plenty of bracket to extend the holes into any direction you want to go but the rear is an entirely different story. When the Stock Cam Bolts are extended all the way, the bolt is close to enough to the edge of the bracket where if I were to get it to where I really need it, there's no bracket that far. Even with drilling, the most that I could possibly gain would be maybe a 1/4" if I was lucky at best. Am I wrong??