We got our first winter storm of the season and I have a question about other's experiences with the limited slip. While driving on straight stretches of pavement at constant speed, the Armada will occasionally do something I can only describe as "skip." It happened both in some city driving (speeds around 25) as well as on the snow-covered highway (about 55). We'll be driving at a constant speed and all of a sudden the truck feels as if you tapped the brakes for a moment, there's a "thump" in the back end, and then it keeps going. I tried driving in a number of different combinations...in 4wd, in 2wd, VDC on, VDC off, cruise on, cruise off...and it still did the same thing. The engine speed never varied, but there was a loss of momentum for a split second.

I remember this happening a couple of times toward the end of the winter last year, but it never happened over the summer, so I'd forgetten about it.

Anyone have any similar experience or any advice whether this is normal or if it's time for a trip to the service dept? Thanks!

Sounds like you're hitting a patch of ice and wheel is spinning. Then traction control kicks in.
I believe we don't have limited slip. We have an open diff that has traction control by applying the brake to the slipping wheel.

....I believe we don't have limited slip. We have an open diff that has traction control by applying the brake to the slipping wheel....
I think that too but my question is how can we lay down double stripes with the VDC Off so I'm thinking that we might have some sort of limited slip or rear diff locker.

I think that too but my question is how can we lay down double stripes with the VDC Off so I'm thinking that we might have some sort of limited slip or rear diff locker.
That's exactly my thought too. I've seen videos of Armadas spinning both rear wheels like crazy. I'm pretty sure I've done the same thing too. But how if we have an open diff??

We do have ABLS as well as VDC on the Armada. I'm just still not sure if what I'm feeling is normal even for slippery roads. I've had other cars with some sort of traction control system and driven on far worse roads without this lunging feeling. I guess if I'm the only one experiencing this, it must not be typical and I'll visit my friends at the Nissan shop. Thanks for your thoughts.

I'd take it to the shop. I'd been on solid ice last year and that wasn't happening like you're describing. The lunging was only when it was obviously switching between very slick and dry spots.

I have had the same problem with my 2008. no ice on the road. Same skip you describe. Dealer says no error codes. BVD has same problem. Read in another thread that it could be fuel sending unit. I read that this is also the cause of the fuel guage incorrect readings. Did you get the problem solved?
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I sometimes hear the "clunk" or "thud" you're talking about but it only happens when i am spinning from a dig in rain occasionally. it doesnt do it everytime but it does do it. Pops like you said about the limited slip or locking, I kinda of have to agree with you there. One thing i noticed is that it either goes both or single than transitions into both. IMO it is kinda of similar to how the G80 rear end in my friend's Suburban works but a lot smoother. If im pulling away while turning and i goose it the car usually will light both tires up and start to power slide but other times it will go 1 wheel then all of a sudden kick into 2 wheel. Thats my .02

Fuel sending unit on order and being replaced next week..This should fix the innacurate fuel gauge. Will let you know if it helps the Jerking / skipping.

Had the same problem. It was a voltage problem. 1. Had to replace the battery-got a yellow top optima. 2. Had to replace both Nissan terminal rings that attach the battery cables to the battery. The negative one is a cheap p.o.s. little dinky brass ring with slots cut in it. It is physically impossible to snug up the connection once it's started to corrode due to the weak design and unstretchable metal used. Once I replaced both terminal cable ends with solid lead ones and cranked them down snug, the VDC slip light problems completely went away. The flashing dash lights below 40 degrees went away, the error codes that always showed up below 45 degrees went away, the weird transmission shifting went away, the clunking in the drive train went away, and the anti lock occasional unannounced rear brake grab/lockups went away. The ghost in the 4wd (shift when you least expect it without touching it) system went away, the 4wd lights quit changing on their own. AND- the alternator began to put out 13.4-13.6 volts all the time. Before, with the p.o.s. terminal clamps, the most the battery would accept was 12.4 volts, which is what ruined the original battery.

F4N,
can you post the specs for good battery clamps and how difficult is this step? length of time taken to do the swap...??