It seems as if the crossbars are so far apart that there isnt a box that will fit. Ive checked the Yakimas out but they run a bit short. I know there is a Load warrior which is pretty much a basket with no cover. I would like the cargo box so stuff stays protected when traveling. I am heading to Washington State at the end of the month and in desperate need for a cargo box. I would like to use the factory crossbars rather than putting in another couple hundred to get more bars added. Does anyone have any suggestions

Hi, we have a Thule 1800 that works great. Lo and behold though, getting ready to leave for Whistler and put it on for the first time and found the same problem. A couple hours and couple beers later though and all ready to go. Very straightforward fix.
The latches (4 of them) that hold the box to the cross bars slide in a slot. Basically, make the slot longer and the latches adjust farther.
Here is what I did:
1) Drill out four rivets holding sheetmetal guide piece for each sliding latch.
2) Mark slot approximately 4" longer. Drill 3/8" hole at end (nice rounded end)
3) Cut slot with fine tooth sabre saw (plastic is EZ to cut)
4) Drill 4 new holes, rivet with 3/16" dia. alum rivets (gun and rivets $20 at Lowes)
5) Rivet sheet metal covers and latches back on (make sure you point the latch right way)
6) Do the other 3 corners the same way. Cover extra slot with black duct tape if you are in a hurry to go skiing or put some extra sheet material (plastic or...) to cover if you really want to, it is not necessary.
Takes 5 minutes to put on or take off of Armada by myself. :clever:

Hope this helps. The Thule 1800 is also nice because it opens from either side. Also, I can fit into my garage (8' tall door) with it on top (but not your typical 6' - 9" or 10" parking structure, ouch! Almost went there when it was on the Pathfinder.

I have a Yakima Rocket Box that would not fit the crossbar spacing. So I drilled 4 holes and moved the front clamps forward so the box now fits just fine. The Rocket Box tapered in the front so the newly drilled holes were on the same "plane" as the old ones it worked out really good, and with the flat cross bars on the Armada is more secure then with the round bars that Yakima supplies.

Ken

I have a Yakima Rocket Box that would not fit the crossbar spacing. So I drilled 4 holes and moved the front clamps forward so the box now fits just fine. The Rocket Box tapered in the front so the newly drilled holes were on the same "plane" as the old ones it worked out really good, and with the flat cross bars on the Armada is more secure then with the round bars that Yakima supplies.

Ken
did you happen to have pics I can see. I actually prefer to do what you did if I had to. How did you plug the existing holes?

I tried this last year with no luck I made a brackett for my thule box so it would reach. It worked for the entire trip from alaska to michigan to wyoming. You can also buy another cross bar for the back roof rack from nissan its about $65. That is what i would have done if not for the shipping time to alaska.

did you happen to have pics I can see. I actually prefer to do what you did if I had to. How did you plug the existing holes?

There is not much to see, but I will take some pics, if not before, I will take them this weekend. I had a couple of plugs that Yakima had supplied, and used duct tape on the rest. I bet you can get plugs from Yakima.

Ken

I drilled new holes. I have a Thule. If you are worried about the holes, plug them with some stickers. Thule and the others have predrilled holes and come with stickers to cover the holes you don't use. Since they are on the bottom, there is very little chance any moisture will go up and they act like drains anyway.

Got a Thule adventurer. I had to drill additional holes - no big deal. Just put the Armada crossbars as close together as you can, mark and drill.

I use duct tape or electrical tape to cover unused holes without any problems. Driven through snow, sleet, and rain without incident.

The reason I went with moving the adjustable brackets is so that I can still put the box back onto my 95 Pathfinder and it for the closer bar spacing. Drilling new holes is definitely quicker and easier, but on boxes with adjustable brackets you would still need to drill out the existing rivets to free up the brackets.

I'm considering getting another crossbar for the back. They go for about 60 bucks or so. I just wonder if the weight distribution will be fine being that the weight will be more on the back end of the box.

I'm considering getting another crossbar for the back. They go for about 60 bucks or so. I just wonder if the weight distribution will be fine being that the weight will be more on the back end of the box.
For the short wide boxes, I'd just mount them on the back. Maybe with a second span. For my box, I have a long slender ski type box. Those kinds I'd drill holes and use the existing spans.

For the short wide boxes, I'd just mount them on the back. Maybe with a second span. For my box, I have a long slender ski type box. Those kinds I'd drill holes and use the existing spans.

Yeah, I'm really interested in the shorter but wider box. Its called the Space cadet (http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?productId=47901105&storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&langId=-1&color=BLACK&img=/media/240801.jpg&view=large&vcat=REI_SEARCH). Check out that link. Anyone have this? Any feedback

I'm considering getting another crossbar for the back. They go for about 60 bucks or so. I just wonder if the weight distribution will be fine being that the weight will be more on the back end of the box.

You may want to measure first. With my Yakima, the two original bars were too far apart, but adding a crossbar would have made them too close together. I couldn't figure out a way to make it work without modifying the box.

Ken

The shortest distance you can get between the bars is 42". Maybe adding one will allow the stubby box instead of the long one. I love the long one because it keeps all the cargo near one side of the truck, making it easy to access. Also, it has less frontal surface so it gets you better mileage. Last, I do ski and use it to carry skis. Its also been good for sandy beach umbrellas, salty life jackets, etc.

bootyologist - Be sure to measure the back hatch when it is up also- if you move boxes back too far (eg trying to get totally on the rear bars) it could interfere with hatch fully lifting up. On my other rig, the Pathfinder, I had to buy gutterless mounts to mount a crossbar way up by the front doors because the hatch wouldn't open unless it was pushed up. Of course on this monster truck the box looks 2/3 scale!

bootyologist - Be sure to measure the back hatch when it is up also- if you move boxes back too far (eg trying to get totally on the rear bars) it could interfere with hatch fully lifting up. On my other rig, the Pathfinder, I had to buy gutterless mounts to mount a crossbar way up by the front doors because the hatch wouldn't open unless it was pushed up. Of course on this monster truck the box looks 2/3 scale!

Great point. I would hate for my lady to hold the gate while I try to get things out of the box. I do like point 92TripleBlack made as far as the cargo being on on side of the truck, and the frontal surface thing was a great point. I have a couple weeks till I go to Washington, hopefully I'll be able to get something going by then. :o Thanks for everyones suggestions. It gives me a few ideas to think about :goodjob:

did you happen to have pics I can see. I actually prefer to do what you did if I had to. How did you plug the existing holes?


I didn't get the pics this weekend. It was a very busy and I wasn't home much. What do you want to see? The box on the vehicle, or a close up of the repositioned clamp?

Thanks
Ken

I didn't get the pics this weekend. It was a very busy and I wasn't home much. What do you want to see? The box on the vehicle, or a close up of the repositioned clamp?

Thanks
Ken

reposition clamp if you can. Thanks

That I can do without a problem, I just didn't want to have to put the box way up there in 104 degree weather if I didn't have to :)

Ken

reposition clamp if you can. Thanks


Here are the pics. The open holes are where the clamps used to be. The clamps are in their new positions. Notice the holes were drilled in the rib so they are indented the same as the old holes. This allows the box to sit the same with no undue stress.

Ken

Here are the pics. The open holes are where the clamps used to be. The clamps are in their new positions. Notice the holes were drilled in the rib so they are indented the same as the old holes. This allows the box to sit the same with no undue stress.

Ken

Right on bro. I really appreciate the time you took out to do this. It makes my decision a lot easier. This may be my option. It looks pretty easy to do. Thanks again

I just put my Thule box on today for our trip to Moab.

4 new U-bolts from Home Depot and some old rubber shock bushings (I used them as a spacer since the threads stopped before it could be tightened down property). I drilled 8 new holes and it's ready to go. Took it up to 70 mph and couldn't hear any noticeable wind noise. :D

http://homes-ariz.com/images/armada/box_mount.jpg

http://homes-ariz.com/images/armada/roof_box.jpg

I'm considering getting another crossbar for the back. They go for about 60 bucks or so. I just wonder if the weight distribution will be fine being that the weight will be more on the back end of the box.


What is the part# for getting a second rear crossbar? I haven't been able to find it?

Thanks

What is the part# for getting a second rear crossbar? I haven't been able to find it?

Thanks

Sorry for the late reply. Here is the link. Not sure of the part #. Call Cheryl @ 18882165328. She's in the parts dept, based out of Arizona. She took real good care of me and let her know I reffered ya. They go for pretty cheap

$66.50 for the rear crossbar (http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=55&chapter=ARF3630&appSectionid=2695&groupid=2724&subgroupid=6007&componentid=2883&make=25&model=Armada&year=2005&graphicID=3630370&callout=10&catalogid=2)

Well, I am leaving on vacation this friday, I just bought the truck a month ago, and borrowed a cargo box. I saw this thread and decided to mearsue to see if the box would fit, same problem as everyone else. One crossbar on rear, and box isn't long enuff to fit to the front. I made some calls for the crossbar, nobody has it in my area, so I had to make my own modification. Its not the prettiest, but hey, it will work. The rails (not crossbar) have a nice "L" shape to them I got some steel piping, cut it to the right length, put some protection on the metal piping, and strapped it down. I then put the cargo box on top, DAMM, the F-ing rear gate bairly hits the cargo box. O WELL, this will have to do for this trip. CALI to Utah, here we come. :D

Thanks for the crossbar link.

Rear crossbar is good if you want the more square box. If you want the long box, just redrill holes a little further forward. Worked easily for me and mounted using stock hardware. No U bolts, etc. Took 5 minutes and held any weight I put in it without a rattle.

Rear crossbar is good if you want the more square box. If you want the long box, just redrill holes a little further forward. Worked easily for me and mounted using stock hardware. No U bolts, etc. Took 5 minutes and held any weight I put in it without a rattle.

Only problem is the cargo box is borrowed, I did get it to work, though. :D

What do you all think of the Load warrior style (basket) on the top of the MADA? Aerodymically speaking, the enclosed cargo carriers are better, but the basket type would hold more.

Only problem is the cargo box is borrowed, I did get it to work, though. :D

What do you all think of the Load warrior style (basket) on the top of the MADA? Aerodymically speaking, the enclosed cargo carriers are better, but the basket type would hold more.
Baskets are OK except they let the weather in too much. I would only put something like a tire or bicycle on it. They are also harder to add and remove than the pods. I can put on the pod myself in 10 minutes. I guess it comes down to personal preference and what you are carrying.

A whole lot of discussion that boils down to "drill new holes". Doesn't work if you are borrowing the box, but does if you own it.

Nice idea with the foam wrap on the cross bars to help with fit and also to prevent scratching .