My drivers side window has been working very intermittently the last few months. It would work fine, and then just stop. You couldn't hear the motor or anything, just dead, almost like the switch was bad. Then a month or two later, it would work good for a day or two, then stop again. The other day my wife rolled the window down and it stayed down, I couldn't get it back up. I pulled the window up with my hands, and eventually the window came off track and dropped into the door
I took it into the Nissan dealership today, he said it needs a new motor and regulator assembly, and also the window was off the clips I think he said. So they would need to get the urethane back on if that makes any sense. Anyways, the total cost for parts and labor is $715. Do you think they are taking advantage of me, or does this sound right?
Here's a video showing you how to do it, I know its a titan but its close enough.
You can get just the motor or the regulator and motor together, it truly is not that hard to tackle it your self. I did it on my corolla and it took around two hours. My motor was only $38 through Rockauto.com, but I'm pretty sure it's going to be twice that much for one on an armada.
I just replaced mine. Autozone and O'Reiley's have a replacement motor (made by same manufacturer) but they usually have to be ordered and appear to possibly be on backorder.
I got one from Napa for $95, they actually had one in stock nearby my house. Replaced the motor, cleaned and greased the regulator, and so far its working beautifully!
My passenger side window did the samething. I had a friend of mine that replaces windows and window motors and he cleaned it out. He said there was like sand in it. It worked for about 2 weeks and then it stopped again. It's been about 5 months since I have had time to replace it. But summer is coming and there is no way I am going through summer without a passenger window. Does anyone know if you have to replace the regulator when replacing the motor?? My buddy said all I needed was the motor but I am not too sure.
The regulator and motor come out in one piece, then you have to switch out the motors and put it back in as one unit. Unless the regulator is broken or if you can buy it as a unit just as cheap, there is no reason to get a new regulator as well.
Good luck
Has really good prices on replacement parts, I literally replaced half my suspension joints on my civic for under 2 bills where the oem stuff was over a G note just for the parts.
Hello all,
I had the same problem exactly. However, I opted for a hack as I really do not like automatic windows (due to inability to open if no power) so I converted it to manual. Not very pretty, but works well.
Cheers
Arit
My driver's side window has been struggling to go up for the past few weeks.
Totally dead in the down position today.
Called a Nissan dealer... new motor through them is $313.79.
Called Napa auto parts and they have one for $104 that I can pick up today.
The Napa part is a refurb, but inside the box it is stamped "New Unit" and the guy at Napa pulled it out of the box and also said it is new.
Apparently, if they don't have any refurbished ones, they give you new ones.
Ugh. It's not the motor. The wires are all frayed in the regulator. Through the dealer, the regulator costs $242.93. Of course they don't have it in stock. Said they can have one for me by Thursday. 5 days from now.
I called Napa (where I got the motor yesterday), and they can have it in store for me in 2 hours and costs $179.99. I am really starting to like these Napa guys in Pleasanton, CA. Guy I have worked with is named Terry.
Anyway, here are the part numbers for this stuff.
Nissan part number for the regulator is: 807217s000
Napa part number for the (refurbed) lift motor is: 49-20965
Napa part number for the regulator is: 749-524
So, if your window symptoms are that the motor seems to be strong, except for certain positions as it goes up and down, you may want to check for the availability of the regulator before you dig in.
Here you can see the wires are frayed in the regulator:
A few things to pay attention to:
If your regulator is fine, lube it while you have it out. I think my new regulator came pre-lubed.
The clip that holds the motor electrical connector to the door frame is a squeeze-to-release type mushroom head. My curved needle nose were perfect to get that clip released from the frame. You have to re-use that clip on your new connector. For the life of me I couldn't figure out how to remove the clip from the connector itself. I had to dremel it out.
Here you can see the clip that you will re-use, as well as the squeeze pin that you have to release from the backside of the door frame.
Pay attention to the instructions on how to program the anti-pinch function. Otherwise, when you use the auto-close feature of the window, it will go all the way up, then drop back down about 2 inches.
Be sure to test that the window doesn't bind going up and down before you put the panel back on.
Thank you tchjts1...
This information is very useful, the same thing is happening to me, but also the small plastic pieces that hold the glass in to the regulator are broke, anyone know where I can find them.