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VDC-Slip-ABS PLUS 4WD PLUS Brake lights

43K views 13 replies 9 participants last post by  questthebest 
#1 ·
Yeap... acheived the triple crown today. I woke up this morning and the mada had the VDC-SLIP-ABS lights on... that's strike 1. I've had the mada for 2 years now so I'm used to the various random warning light moods she has so I carried on as normal. Then on the way back from the store the 4WD light popped on and the indcator on the odometer went out (that's strike 2). I was planning on doing the rear brakes today and thought that might help with the first issue anyways so I went ahead and replaced the rear rotors and pads as planned. Took it for a spin and all the lights were still on... 'oh well' I thought. Then I pressed the brakes hard to start the brake in process and voila! strike 3... the brake light came on.

I'm laughing at this point, after all the problems we've all had with the mada and the modules I had to share the story.

I'm hoping the modules just need to be re-flashed or something. The car still drives normal. I'll be taking it in to the stealership tuesday to see what guesses they have.

Just as a further note... lights come on the same way each time. VDC-SLIP-ABS are on right from start up. The 4WD light and vanishing indicator happen about 20 seconds after start-up now every time, i can switch modes normally until the 20 seconds is up. The brake light will only come on if the pedal is pressed hard.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
yeah, I played around with things for a bit this afternoon. Before I started the brake job, the fluid was already topped up, it was the first thing I checked when I saw the VDC-SLIP-ABS lights. My rear pads were gone so I actually had to pull out some extra fluid to get down to the max mark after I finished the job.

After my brake job failed to remove any of the lights, I did try taking the battery out, I swapped the relays for 4WD and airbags to see if that would fix the 4WD light aswell and also cleaned the battery terminals and connections and added dielectric grease. None of this helped. Pedal was soft after the brake job and that's when the brake light first came on but soft pedals can be common after installing new pads/rotors so I did go ahead with the brake-in process, it was firm when I parked it for the night... I'm curious to see if it's still firm in the morning... if its still soft I may need to drain and bleed the brake system.

I will definately keep you guys posted.
 
#4 ·
1 down, 2 to go.

the brake light hasn't come back on since doing a proper burnishing of the new rear brakes.

Might try the 4WD self check today and check/clean a couple body grounds.

has anyone ever had the ABS/SLIP/VDC light on with the 4WD lamp at the same time?
 
#5 ·
same problem here

Hi, I've got the same problem with my 04, simply replaced a dead battery and all the lights came, have tryed all suggestions given here with no results, will probably have to take it to dealer to fix unless someone comes up with an answer to it, did have the ECM replaced no more then a week ago, still have lights on, good luck with yours
 
#6 ·
4WD light self diagnostic doesn't want to work for me. In the service manual instructions it asks to switch the 4WD switch and AT lever in a certain order. It doesn't specify how long to wait at each step... it also asks to switch the 4WD switch from auto to lock, do they mean 4H or LO is lock?
 
#7 ·
4WD diagnostic without consultII

here's the service manual proceedure....

1. Warm up engine.
2. Move A/T selector lever to “P” position.
3. Turn 4WD shift switch to “2WD” position.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and “OFF” at least twice, and then turn ignition switch “OFF”.
5. Turn 4WD shift switch to “AUTO” position.
6. Turn ignition switch “ON”. (Do not start engine.)
7. 4WD warning lamp ON.
If 4WD warning lamp does not turn ON, refer to TF-122, "4WD Warning Lamp Does Not Turn ON" .
8. Move A/T selector lever to “R” position.
9. Turn 4WD shift switch to “2WD”, “AUTO” and “2WD” in order.
10. Move A/T selector lever to “D” position.
11. Turn 4WD shift switch to “LOCK”, “AUTO” and “LOCK” in order.
12. Move A/T selector lever to “N” position.
13. Turn 4WD shift switch to “AUTO” position.
14. Move A/T selector lever to “P” position.
15. Read the flickering of 4WD warning lamp.

the manual actually says step 1 is warN up the engine but I assume they meant warM.
 
#8 ·
follow up as promissed.... went to dealership today and tech said "pages" of codes came out, some he wrote down for me were:

C1142 (pressure sensor), C1109 (batt voltage abnormal), U1000 (cann com circuit), P1808 (speed sensor), O1803 (abs op sig), P1831 (vdc op sig), P1827(clutch pressure), P1828 (line pressure), B2573 (batt voltage)... after he cleared them the ABS, VDC, and speed sigs returned.

They recommended replacing the front left hub/sensor and starting there indicating more problems may be likely.

Brought the car home to look at it myself and sure enough there was a knick in the wire of the front left abs sensor (not sure why they didn't find this but recommended replacing the entire sensor - parts replacers!!) there was visible corrosion on the wire.

I cleaned and soldered the wire and took it for a spin, all is good for now. Need to get a replacement wire for the sensor... good news is that its on the ECU side, not the sensor side, so it should have plugs on both ends.

I also swapped out the battery connector with a solid lead one. I swear the voltmeter in the car reads higher now.

Because I've had the more common unexpected brake failure a number of times over the past couple years I asked them to check for the TSB that covered it (NTB06-040) but they couldn't find it the right TSB to reference even though I gave them the number.... go figure.
 
#9 ·
I had the VDC/Brake/Slip light come on on my 05 2WD. Took it to dealer, since I have extended warrenty. They called back, said it was due to the front brakes being worn. I didn't really believe that, but seeing as how I was getting divorced and moving out that day, I didn't have the time to mess with it, and I was going to pay for the inspection anyways. They replaced the front pads, turned the rotors, and flushed the fluid. Guess what, lights still on. So after that $500 bill, it still wasn't right. Then they did the diagnostics, found a bad sensor in the brake fluid line. They changed both of them (Code C1142, Pressure sensor circuit, 2 P/N 47240-7S000, Sensor assy, HYP, unit price 148.52) that cleared it. I had them save the brake pads for me. They were only half worn, not real happy about that. Ended up sitting down with service manager, finally agreed on pads at cost, paid for fluid flush, and labor at employee rate. Plus an oil change. I guess thats fair, but I did inform them that their order of troubleshooting was lacking, as a half worn pad should not cause those problems. The sensors were done under warrenty. Hope that helps out
 
#11 ·
Welcome to CA kh971!

Tell your dealer that we here at CA are calling BS. There has been several posts on this site concerning the VDC, Brake, Slip and 4WD lights and nothing has ever refered to the Seatbelt Sensor. History has shown either Brake Fluid levels being low, brake pads worn, BCM module requiring flashing (resetting) or brake booster. Seatbelt sensor, this is a first.
 
#13 ·
Bumping this!!! This is the same problem I am having!!!

BUMPING THIS UP. I have a 2011 Armada, only had since November last year, and same thing happening. Abs, VDC, Slip AND 4x4 lights came on. Found the one front driver sensor was bung, so replaced that and no change. Took to Nissan yesterday only to get codes read because they are a JOKE of a dealership here. Most common ones that came up were P1819 and P1828. The shocking thing??? Those two codes have come up 111 times!!! Think someone just kept having them reset rather then fix them. I could use all the help I can get. Checked out the codes and all I can find is that it has something to do with the transfer case unit...checked that out, connections are all good, looks fairly new, no corrosion on unit...ARGH. Thanks everyone.
 
#14 ·
I think I have finally solved the issue of these damned lights coming on, at least for me it worked. My lights started coming on roughly 2 years ago while driving from Philadelphia to Ocean city Maryland for vacation. Half way through the trip, the lights was come on, the ABS, Slip and all that good jazz. No 4 wheel light or break. Then the next winter, all the main symptoms jumped on. All of the lights would come on and be on steady the whole time. When the car started, the break light, 4 wheel drive and the normal abs and slip and all that jazz. tried everything people were recommending on here and nothing was working. changed all of my break pads to no avail, replaced all speed sensors to no avail, checked the break fluid levels all of the time and even bleed the air break lines. after those two years passing, the following winter, I started hearing a weird noise come from my driver side wheel. really couldn't make it out but it sounded like a piece of metal was whirling around in the wheel some where. But I could never pin point it and the fact that the noise was not consistent and only happened while i was driving I could never find it. Not until last weekend, the noise became constant and out right horrible and terrible. it was the damn wheel bearing/wheel hub. i have 140,000 miles on mu truck so when i went to replace it, of course the bolts where in there nice and tight, but, i eventually got it removed and replaced, and all lights turned off. So after 3 years of these damn lights, I love them being gone. To check to see if your bearings are bad, jack up one tire at a time and grab the tire at the top and the bottom at the same time in try to rock the tire back and forth. if it moves, it means bad bearings, mines rocked severely and thank gof that it didnt brake while i was driving. Hope this reaches people eho needed cause I hated those damn lights.
 
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