Ok, So i was able to remove the stud from the block. I found it was stripped on the block and the tread on the stud is completly damaged. The dealer changed both my cracked headers several years back. What can i do? I bought new stud, should i just force the stud on the block? or re-tread? what size tread? Damm this is becoming a nightmare!
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Eclipse 5495 30 G HDD, Eclipse rear camera, D6's front & passenger, JL 300/4, JL 500/1, JL W6 H/O Box,2 Headset Myron & Davis, Myron & Davis flip down,
4 way audio/Video switcher w/TV tuner , DVD, Xbox 360, Sirius satellite. Nitto Dune Grappler DT, Chrome Pilars, Stainless Steels door seals, Stainless steel Gauge, Tuele Stealth box w/ Rack Extender, Magna Flow Performance, Volant cool air intake, Active tunning kit
Ouch indresda! I wish I could be more helpful... maybe PM Pops or scr38? nyc2005armada I think might be able to give you more info also...
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'05 Mada LE Slate, Bilstein 5100s in front, R1 Concept Premium Drilled and Slotted Rotors, PosiQuite pads, Removed middle row center console, 8K HID Lows, LED on order with Armaden , besides these she's just about bone stock
thanks bro. I called Folsom Nissan and told them that the studs on the block are trashed, since they were the last people to touch my car by replacing my cracked header..They just recommend a machine shop. Not happy but what can i do, i need my Armada...yeah it sucks. But i bought new studs and screwed them up into the block..oh well!
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Eclipse 5495 30 G HDD, Eclipse rear camera, D6's front & passenger, JL 300/4, JL 500/1, JL W6 H/O Box,2 Headset Myron & Davis, Myron & Davis flip down,
4 way audio/Video switcher w/TV tuner , DVD, Xbox 360, Sirius satellite. Nitto Dune Grappler DT, Chrome Pilars, Stainless Steels door seals, Stainless steel Gauge, Tuele Stealth box w/ Rack Extender, Magna Flow Performance, Volant cool air intake, Active tunning kit
i would not force the new bolt in there. if you are going the 'retreading' route, you will want to get the tap that is slightly bigger then hole right now. make sure the tap is straight when you first start the tap and spin it slowly. one or two full cycle then reverse it out, this helps to break loose the metal chips, then tap it back in to the place you stop before and do another 1 or 2 full turn and repeat. and remember to oil the tap as you go this helps with the process and the metal chips. like kooshtake said hit up the others members. hopefully they can offer other alternatives.
I would use a wire pipe cleaner to clean the threads really good first, and use some anti-sieze. If that still doesn't work then I would consider re-tapping. Just remember the tap needs to match whatever new bolt you're using for that hole.
You will need to re-tap the threads like everyone said. The problem is you have to use a bigger stud and different nut to hold the header down..take your time as the cylinder head have little room for error. Good luck.
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'05 Mada LE Slate, Bilstein 5100s in front, R1 Concept Premium Drilled and Slotted Rotors, PosiQuite pads, Removed middle row center console, 8K HID Lows, LED on order with Armaden , besides these she's just about bone stock
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