QX56 aftermarket Viper 5901 Remote Start DIY - Nissan Armada Forum: Armada & Infiniti QX56 Forums
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post #1 of 7 Old 10-16-2012, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
vangb2
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QX56 aftermarket Viper 5901 Remote Start DIY

After countless hours of researching on wiring diagram and understanding how the Nissan ignition system works, it was scarce to find any information on our model QX and Armada. The wiring colors were off, there were no explanations on the 2 ignition wires that we had nor why it even has 2 starter wires. The flex relay was confusing even though I have experience with normal bosch type relay. Flex relay is just an internal relay, that's all.

The Viper 5901 is a intricate piece of equipment with a horrible manual. I have researched for days when I had time in-between classes, work, and my family. At first, I couldn't comprehend some of the descriptions in the manual because it was vague and ambiguous.

I have the full service manual and did all most of my research from it so I took the liberty of my research to give it to you and hopefully this will help some of you in the future that want to attempt to proceed with a project like this.

For your record, this installation is for the Viper 5901. I am not responsible for any mishaps you may have during the following of my work. I am ASE certified in Electrical. I am pretty sure that other DEI remote starter are similar for this installation. It should work for 2004-2006 without intelligent key/turn knob.

FYI

Flex Relay= Internal relay built into the brain

IG1 and IG2= one wire provides 12v to fan blower, window circuitry, rear defroster, radio, and other. The other provides power to fuel pump, ignition coils, ecu, and anything other components of the engine. This keeps power interference to a minimum and keeps away frying wires. In the diagram, you will need to use the flex relay.

Starter wire 2= This is for the reason of anything that needs power while starter is engaged so you don't lose power. For example if you did not hook up this wire, when you turn your keys to start and your seat and steering column is still moving, it will stop at whatever position once you turn to start. It maintains the power to your memory when you turn your keys to start the car. In the diagram, you will need a bosch type relay to engage the starter 2 wire.

I originally bought a Xpresskit XK02 to use as the immobilizer for my vehicle, but realized that it was not an immobilizer. It was just a factory/aftermark alarm controller. I have purchased the Xpresskit DLPK which does not require a key or key ring for our models and should keep the engine running. I will update when I get this part running.

If you find that the colors are different, use the pin instead because the pin location should still be the same. I know I still need to touch up on making my chart prettier, but this is the best I have for you.

Let me know if I should change some if you should find it wrong or confusing.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oaq94wukhm...g%20chart.xlsx
or
http://www.filebox.com/o72keyuyyiy5

Last edited by vangb2; 10-16-2012 at 03:31 AM.
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post #2 of 7 Old 11-24-2012, 09:31 PM
edrock200
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Really cool of u to put this together! I also researched a viper remote start option for my 08 qx. What I couldn't figure out though or get an answer on is how the tumbler start and key sense works with the fobs. What year is your qx? Once you remote start do u just get in, turn the car to "on" and hit the brake? Does the car switch from the immobilizer bypass to the fob? Did you wire it to the original remote via relay (double lock press) or after market remote?

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post #3 of 7 Old 11-25-2012, 02:50 AM
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so you are able to program the OEM key fob with this viper 5901? Or are you using the viper fob?

And thanks for posting the how to.



'04 LE
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post #4 of 7 Old 11-25-2012, 03:02 AM Thread Starter
vangb2
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I have a 2004 QX56. The key system is different. I have the key system while I think the 2008-2010 has the knob tumbler (aka keyless, smart key, or intellegent key). For 2004-2010, you will need a bybass module. The immobilizer is designed to request for the signal at initial start up only and that's when the module comes' in. To answer your questions, once your vehicle is on and running, it will not discriminate and will not recheck for signals.

Also, with my year model. It's simple. Single pulse for lock will arm OEM alarm and single pulse for unlock will disarm OEM alarm. I know the installation guide mention that single pulse lock will arm and double pulse will unlock. I had tried both and it's not necessary for double pulse for disarm. For your vehicle (2008), the factory security will need to be control by the module. Signals are sent from the aftermarket alarm to the module and than from the module to your OEM security system via CAN-BUS.

I can't exactly speak for your model because I have a key system, but in the manual it has requested for the program of the bypass module using the key. My only guess would be that you need to have your OEM FOB with you while attempting to program and treat the knob accordingly as if there was a key insert and follow the direction. I have the remote start wired as D2D (Date to Date).

I used an Xpresskit DLPK bypass module . According to xpresskit.com application guide, it's good for year 2004-2010. See link below to find more information on this module other module you may need.
http://www.xpresskit.com/VehicleComp...9&ps=1&s=0&c=0

For my application, the remote start can activate regardless if it's armed or not. Once in the vehicle, you will need to insert the key and turn to "On". Once it's in the "On" position, anytime you step on the brakes, it will deactivate the remote start mode and your ignition will be the primary power supplier. If you fail to have it in the "On" position and step on the brake, your vehicle will shut off.

I can already see that you will run into a few issues according to other forums. There maybe ways to get around your future problems wit many dedicated hours or research.

If you can find a service manual for me, I may be able to trace some of the wiring for you to mitigate issues you will run into.

Sorry if I didn't hit all the spots, but I can only give you a rough idea to relief some of your concerns.

Last edited by vangb2; 11-25-2012 at 03:05 AM.
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post #5 of 7 Old 11-25-2012, 03:19 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ntrddragn View Post
so you are able to program the OEM key fob with this viper 5901? Or are you using the viper fob?

And thanks for posting the how to.
Sorry I haven't had time to update some of my post. I just recently had a newborn on the 7th of this month and I am busy.

I did not make any simplified diagram for the modul, but the manufacturer installation guide is easy enough to understand so it would be wasteful for me to even bother with it. I ended up using a xpresskit DLPK with D2D (Data to Data) connection in conjunction with the alarm. It works well. Their are a few modules you can work with that firmwares can be upgraded to fix potential bugs, but I find it non-worthy because by now with our models they should already have it all fixed or they will no longer support it. Also you will need more accessories to buy to upgrade the firmware or have a shop upgrade the firmware that you may already have.

By the way, the Viper FOB is now the main FOB because it will control all your OEM factory alarm features.

Last edited by vangb2; 11-26-2012 at 09:14 PM.
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post #6 of 7 Old 01-17-2013, 08:45 PM
jeison33
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Ive been looking on a diy for awhile. thanks for the post how much did all the parts need cost you.
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post #7 of 7 Old 01-18-2013, 01:27 AM
edrock200
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Thank you so much for your time and offer to research. I do have the service manuals, but I don't want to waste your time, spend it with your new baby! I'm not sure if I'll tackle it anytime soon anyway, we'll see. I did think of one solution though...

So i've done remote starts on two of my other vehicles. One with new key security (straight metal key) and the other with a chip in the key requiring the key module to spoof the signal.

So here's what interesting about the 2008. It senses the key when you get in the car and allows you to physically turn the tumbler and crank the motor. At this point you can take the key out of the car, and as far as I can tell other than an annoying keylight in the status window in the guage cluster, everything will still run.

So my though is one of two scenarios should work.

1. Do nothing. With the module you listed above, the logic of the car should function properly. ie
a. Remote start the vehicle
b. Immobilizer unit sends signal through CAN-BUS tricking car into thinking key is present
c. Car starts
d. You get into the car and turn the tumbler to run, then press the brake..
e. Remote start cuts out and immobilizer *should* deactivate making the car illuminate the "no key" icon
f. Car should begin scan for available keys again
g. Car should find fob in your pocket, and marry with that unit

2. Some immobilizers only present the key for crank, then "disengage". This means if you're not close to your car almost instantly, you won't be able to turn the tumbler out of the off position. So my thought is, tie a relay between the alarm brain output wire and the immobilizer. Time the relay to cut out after 10 seconds or so (enough time for the car to crank.) This will make the car think it's lost the key, and when you get it, it should remarry.

3. Replace the crank with a push button start like this:
http://kptechnologies.com/products.php#/18

Thoughts?
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