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Towing an TT - my setup

14K views 27 replies 8 participants last post by  StaffordHard 
#1 · (Edited)
Found tons of useful data in the forums, thought of sharing what's working for me.

I'm using my 2011 Platinum (with factory towing package) to tow a Jayco 26BH:


I got the P3 Brake Controller.

The Armada manual (and folks on the forum) calls for a weight distribution system. I Went with this one, which I grabbed on Amazon.

(Shout out to Camco customer support, which answered the phone quickly and sending me a replacement SWAY Control Arm since there is a problem with one of the pin holes).

I can't afford the Nissan OEM towing mirrors, so I got the FIT Mirrors.


I do have a problem where my hitch harness is not sending out the Running Lights power. I read the threads telling to check the fuses and the relays, but for the life of me I couldn't figure out which fuse I need to check (I know it's one of the 10A amp in under the hood), so I'm going to go by the dealership to have this taken care of.

HTH.
 
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#2 ·
That's a long looking train setup, Nice looking Armada and Camper. Do you feel the wait and wind from the Tag on mirrors are to much for the stock plastic framed mirrors.
 
#3 ·
Thanks!

I found these mirror to be surprisingly robust, and they don't even shake in the wind (which was my main concern). Good value for money that gets the job done.

True, they are not heated mirrors etc., but I don't have the $300-$400 to put on the stock mirrors...
 
#4 ·
dz 108, nice rig! One small observation though, IDK if you tow with your "sand shoe" attached on your tongue jack or if that pic was just taken after hitching up. Forgive me please because you may know this already but if you didn't, I wouldn't want to overlook that. When you are "roll'n," take it off and put it in the storage comp or somewhere. I almost accidentally left mine on once and my son caught me just before I crossed over a curb. It would have probably at the very least bent something an at worse broke the tongue jack. Just a thought FWIW.
 
#5 ·
hmmm... no, I didn't know that :|, but it makes sense. I'll see how I can take it off before driving next time. :)

Say, is that a 26" TT you have there? seems similar to mine in size.
 
#6 ·
hmmm... no, I didn't know that :|, but it makes sense. I'll see how I can take it off before driving next time. :)


Say, is that a 26" TT you have there? seems similar to mine in size.

On that sand shoe, there is a pull pin. Just pull the pin and it will drop off.

On the TT, it too is a Jayco, 31' model though.
 
#8 ·
Hey liquid, the mask I only put on for trips where the condenser/radiator might load up with bugs. While it might be a "cosmetic" item, for me it is more a matter of function. I got it online, had it about 5 or 6 years now. I wish I could remember where or rather which online merchant I got it from. There are plastic "supports" sewn into it that help support its fit that have broken over time. I'd like to get their input as to what to do or if they will repair at a nominal fee if I send it back to them but there is no name on it. My dad thinks the world of it, thinks it's really cool. I like it too, again more for its function.

I would not recommend leaving it on all the time unless you wash it weekly. It gets a lot of grit behind it especially if driving in rain. That grit will destroy your paint if left unchecked. Washes easily enough though, turn it inside out and hose it off.

Yeah.., right, I know, 31'. What was I thinking, have to make it work though. It's really not bad, just a lot of trailer to be mindful of is all.
 
#12 ·
Hey liquid, the mask I only put on for trips where the condenser/radiator might load up with bugs.
Another option to cover the condenser and radiator when towing is a Grille Craft Grill that cover the upper and lower. It protects both the radiator and condenser from road debris. Not sure if it is available for newer models but it is well made. Mine has been on since 05 and looks brand new. It is powder coated and very durable. Not a nick or chip on it.

Sweet rig. I agree with others integrated sway would be the way to go.

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#9 ·
That's a really nice set-up, I like it a lot. I'm using the same towing mirrors that you are using, and I've also been very happy with them.

One recommendation; I notice you are using a friction anti-sway device. This is probably the least effective method of anti-sway protection that you can use, which is important with a trailer as long as yours. Plus they can be a pain in the butt if you do a lot of maneuvering of your trailer in tight spots, requiring backing and tight turns. Unfortunately, I don't think your brand of weight distribution hitch has an option for integrated anti-sway like some of the other hitches (specifically Equal-I-zer, Dual-Cam, and Blue Ox), but I'd highly recommend upgrading to one of the integrated systems if you have the option. If you're setup is brand new, your dealer may allow you to trade up to the better system. They are a bit more expensive than what you the Eaz-Lift costs, but only by $200 or so.

Just a suggestion.....

Keith
 
#10 ·
Thanks!

...yep, I'm a bit price sensitive at the moment ;) but will look into it once I can spare the coin...

As for maneuvering, you're supposed to disconnect it in tight spots or when in reverse.
 
#13 ·
SE, nice! I gotta ask though, how's it for air flow? I can't see how air gets through. I know some air will find its way through but it appears to limit or restrict air flow.

I just came back from Fairfield CA, and coming up the north side of the Grapevine is brutal. Outside temp was 96 degrees and pulling my behemoth of a TT you bet the Mada got a little hot going up. No, it didn't over heat but I gotta think that any airflow restriction could'a done it in. Unless I'm missing something or I'm just not able to see it, how does air get through?
 
#16 · (Edited)
SE, nice! I gotta ask though, how's it for air flow? I can't see how air gets through. I know some air will find its way through but it appears to limit or restrict air flow.
The look is deceiving but airflow is just the same as stock. I have run this in the South since 05 with no problems. I tow a heavy boat and travel trailer in the flats as well as mountains pulling in heat as high as 100+. The holes are 1/4 inch on the entire surface and there is no restriction. It not only keeps the radiator much cleaner but it protects the condenser as well. The truck runs perfect, temp is normal and AC will freeze you out (Which is not true with all Titan/Armada) Many guys on the Titan forum run it as well with no issues.
 
#14 ·
Hi folks. I'm new here and was wondering if anyone else is having the same problem I'm having. I have a 2007 Armada LE and I tow a 26' TT with a dry weight of 5766#. I have a WDH the dealer put on but my back end sags a bit. Any thoughts? I've tried tightening the hitch bars but it seems to only make it marginally better.
 
#19 ·
I think we have comparable TT, and the same WDH. Zooming in to my setup you can see I don't have the same sag.

On the WDH, I'm only on the second link, so trying to pull the TT side up is your likely next step. Or, it might be the auto-leveling. I'll try to get pics of before auto-leveling and after so we can judge how much that contributes.

 
#18 ·
It looks like you need to angle the hitch head back most likely all the way which will level out the bars and give you more lift to the rear and apply more weight to the front axle. You need to measure unloaded weight front and rear and try to get the loaded weight within a 1/4-1/2 inch front and 1/2 Rear to the unloaded weight. I would also consider integrated sway control like Dual Cam.

Do the shocks air up when loaded or are they non functioning? In the picture they appear to be non functioning. Also make sure you load trailer and engage WDH before allowing truck to Air up.
 
#21 ·
I found the auto leveling compressor and it looks kind of beat up. Need to take the truck to a mechanic and determine next course of action. I'm hoping it's a relay or fuse but afraid I'll need to replace the compressor. So when I do have this fixed. I should hook the wdh while car is turned off then start it so the al kicks in?
 
#22 · (Edited)
Yes, get the truck basically level prior to starting vehicle and allowing the air lveling to take place. My air system starts and basically shuts right off after setting my WDH. The WDH levels the truck not the air shocks. Ensure you have roughly the same height from center of fender on each corner. Front should be within 1/4 inch and rear 1/4 to 1/2 of measurements taken when unloaded with no trailer/WDH. Again, looking at your picture you need to angle the hitch head back so bars apply more lift. This will also level out the bars (They now face up too much) once hitch head is angled back more. Bars should be as close to level with the trailer tongue as possible.
 
#23 ·
Dz108,

Any idea what your tongue weight is? I have the exact same set up except I tow a Jayco 22 with the hitch head tilted all the way back (5 washers) and still have to chain up to link 5 on the 1,000 pound bars to get level. Looks like you're on link 8 with the hitch head not tilted at all. I don't know exactly what my hitch weight is but probably between 600 and 700 lbs. I have a 2013 Platinum with tow package.
 
#25 ·
Good Q, I've been meaning to find that out myself, will publish when I have time to weigh.

My guess will be low-mid 700's lbs.
 
#28 ·
I found out it was the relay by the battery. Ordered a new part from Nissan Parts for $25 w/ shipping and installed it today. Started the truck up and after a few seconds the compressor kicked in and raised the end just a bit. Looks like I'm good to go. Will update when we go on our next trip. Thanks for all the suggestions.
 
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