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2006 shock replacement: what else to replace along with shocks

9K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  F4N4EVR 
#1 ·
I have 108k miles on my 2006 QX56 with lots of offroading. The ride is bouncy, hence probably time to replace the shocks all the way around. I've used my VIN and verified part numers with the dealer, so that isn't the issue. [Of course, I will pay half the price getting the parts online. When will these dealers wise up?]

My question is what else do I replace at the same time with the shocks? I assume I should replace the rubber bushings. Anything else?

Generally when you buy shocks they supply the bushing or sell a companion kits of associated parts, but that is not the case for the OEM shocks.

Before anyone starts to mention non-OEM brands, mine is autoleveling.
 
#2 ·
If you go with Bilstein's 5100's which will give you up 2" lift or the 4600's for normal height, you will have to buy the rubber bushings or reuse the old one's, check on BUY/SELL OR TRADE one member had some 4600's for $150 which pretty cheap, i paid a little under $200 for mine.
 
#3 ·
Before anyone starts to mentions non-OEM brands, mine is autoleveling.

BTW, I had Bilstein's on my ML430. I have to say they didn't live up to their reputation, though they replaced their defective shocks for free twice. Parts only, not labor.

I'm fine with the Infiniti OEMs. The ride was OK to around 90K miles. I just wanted to replace them at the same time I get new tires. You should align the car after replacing the shocks, so it makes sense to do all this work at the same time.
 
#4 · (Edited)
Gariac, did you end up replacing anything besides the shocks? I also have auto-leveling, but am planning to use Bilstein 4600's and want to have everything I need on hand before I pull everything apart.

At a minimum, I plan on getting the parts 5 and 9 from this diagram and anything else based on inspection:


Source: http://www.infinitipartsonline.com/...ont-suspension-cat/struts-and-components-scat

Since I have it handy, here are the part numbers for the highlighted parts:

562177S000 - bushing (#5) - order 2 per side (4 total)
540347S000 - spring seat (#9) - order 1 per side (2 total)

552487S000 - bumper (#10) - metal part, no need to replace
 

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#5 ·
Hi Evan, aside from the shock 5 and 9 is all you will need. You will find the original bushings flattened. The Bilstein will come with the washer already installed as well as a new lock nut. Everything else is reused.

I did not dig into the rear air yet. I plan on going Nissan again, new shocks and line and perhaps a compressor. The air system has performed well for 100k and I like the leveling, especially with a boat. Mine still works very well but will leak down a bit over night. Suncore makes a system as well. Let us know how it works out.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Okay, great, thanks for the confirmation. It's nice that Bilstein seems to include a new nut, washer and dust boot.

I don't have any plans for the rear at this time. I bought the QX just over a year ago with about 60k on it and the front has always seemed under damped on the highway when hitting a big enough hump in the road. It will oscillate a couple times but the rear seems okay. I may feel differently after replacing the fronts shocks.

I only notice the compressor click on when we load up with a lot of people or gear, so I don't think I have any leaks at this time. I like the leveling functionality so I have no plans to swap it out for regular springs/shocks. If I develop any problems, I'll replace with OEM or Suncore.
 
#7 ·
It's pretty well documented that factory shocks are mostly useless after 30,000 miles, manufacterers use the cheapest shock they can find for factory installation. The fact that you have as much mileage as you do is probably testimony to a insensitive butt. You will notice a huge amount of difference at this point.....everyones tried Rancho's, and then switch to Bilsteins. I have #4600 bilsteins and find them very good for street driving. If I was an off-roader I would get a more serious brand.

By the way...important...if you do the front...always match the rear or you will get some weird
hobby-horsing and need dramamine just to go to the 7-11.
 
#8 ·
Well, I haven't hard the car very long, so I don't know if they are original or not. Conditions and habits can vary quite a bit, so 30,000 miles for one car might be similar to 60k for another.

Thanks for the advice. I'm sure replacing the fronts will be an improvement. It may highlight a problem in the rear, but I'll start at the front and move on to the rear if the damping does not seem like a good match.
 
#9 ·
Mine didn't get bouncy until about 80k miles.

I'm no fan of Bilstein, though I will admit they do honor their lifetime warranty. I had them on a previous SUV. Some just plain lost damping, others broke internally. After two replacement sets, I gave up on Bilstein. Why would you give up the auto-leveling?

I think the OEM parts are fine. That is why I used. Replacing the bushing is fine, though surprisingly the old ones didn't look worn. I'm not sure why you would replace the spring seat.

The thing about the rear shocks is the shop I used generally didn't replace the rear shocks unless they couldn't retain air. That is, the air shocks in the back tend not to wear out like hydraulic shocks. I replaced them anyway since i go off road and wanted peace of mind.

My QX56 had been a good car. I haven't done much to it. [Heater control gave out.] Thus I refurbed it a bit. All fluids changed, new shocks, bleed the brakes, stuff like that.

I'm still passing smog inspite of the odd reading on the ODBII. The local dealer moved to hell and back, making it an annoyance to have something that really should be checked by someone with the right diagnostic devices.
 
#10 ·
I think the OEM parts are fine. That is why I used. Replacing the bushing is fine, though surprisingly the old ones didn't look worn. I'm not sure why you would replace the spring seat.
I didn’t see where anyone said anything about replacing spring seats only bushings and isolators. What should be replaced are the two bushings on each shock and probably the isolator that sits under the top seat. Those are the two mentioned in this thread. My bushings where about half the height as new and the isolators had holes from the end of the spring. I do tow with a WDH that applies more downward force on the front suspension so mine may have taken a bit more of a beating. The new rubber is more flexible and soft and will absorb vibration much better. Here are pics of the isolators with holes. For 50 bucks it is worth changing all the rubber IMO.


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#12 ·
In the diagram you can only see one of the bushings. There are two per shock; one sits on top of the bottom washer and one site on top of the upper seat. There is also a ½ inch metal sleeve that holds them uniformly in place. Here is a picture that shows the top bushing. What is hard to see is there is another one on the bottom that sits on the large washer. The rubber parts in the install will be two bushings per side and a rubber Isolator/Seat. Hope that helps.

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#13 ·
Okay, it sounds like it is #10 on the diagram. The parts list seems to have 10 and 11 reversed because they call 10 "dust cover" and 11 "bumper", but 11 is clearly a dust boot.

The 1/2" sleeve you mention must be #12 .

I revised my parts list in post 4 and colored the rubber parts to be replaced.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Yes, you need a total of 4 bushings (#5 ) and 2 rubber Isolators (#9). The dust boot and washer is integrated and comes off as one part on the stock set up and neither is used with the Bilstein install. What they refer to as the “bumper” is #5 that sits on top of the washer. You will get a new washer with the Bilstein.
 
#15 ·
I somehow missed your post and only ordered 2 of the bushings. That diagram and descriptions are crap. I don't know why they don't show that there are two of the #5 bushings on each side. Since I didn't discover this until I had everything off the car, I just reused the passenger side and put new bushings on the driver side.

The lower isolator (rubber wrapped around the bottom end of the spring) was partially worn through. I wish I had replacements but since it's not on the diagram, I didn't think to order it. Oh well. New Bilsteins are on, hopefully everything is good for quite a while.

Thanks for all the info, hopefully we've made it a little more clear for others.
 
#16 ·
excellent info, pay close attention to the bilstein instructions because they sell the shocks, one bushing short, so you have to use one of your old bushings. Make sure whomever installs the bilsteins reads the instructions carefully or they will install them one bushing short and you will clunks galore! The metal bushing caps also go in - in an illogical manner, so read the instructions and follow the diagrams exactly. The spring seats are a great addition, and--- consider installing new tie rod ends. The oem tre's are no lube, sealed. At 100k, when I had the axle bearing blocks replaced (fell out in pieces) I had the tie rods replaced with Moog lube-able pieces. The old ones, while on the car, felt tight and serviceable. Once removed, they had about 1/8" of slop in each one.
 
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