I own a 2004 Infiniti QX56. The remote will not open/close the rear liftgate (the remote works fine for locking/unlocking the car). The switch by the driver, the switch on the upper left back liftgate (Open/Cancel) and the switch under the license plate will not operate the liftgate. The switch under the licence plate does unlock the liftgate but it has to be raised/lowered manually. The door locks, automatic windows and rear left/right widows function normally. I was told by a dealer that the Back Door Control Unit is bad. Befroe I spend $1300 I wanted to check a couple of things myself. Does anyone know where the circuit breaker/fuse is that powers the Back Door Control Unit? (under the hood (which one?), passenger side, etc.) and where is the Back Door Control Unit? I wanted to check the wiring connections to that unit. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I actually do not have the auto liftgate, so hopefully one of the members who do will chime in soon. I do recall a post here talking about it though! So if I find it, I'l post it.
Have you considered replacing the battery on the remote? Not sure if this will help...since other fundtions of the remote work. How about holding down the liftgate button for several seconds longer?
Thank you for the suggestions. I tried both previously with no success. None of the other buttons work either. It is like there is no power to the Back Door Control Unit which is what I am trying to verify.
That narrows it down to the unit itself, have you checked all fuses? I had a bad actuater a few years ago (repaired under warranty), so I'm not exactly sure what they replaced. I'll see if I can find the paper work.
Nothing happens at all with the liftgate or the latch/locking mechanism when I use the remote (I know the remote is good) or any of the in-vehicle switches. I'm 99% convinced it is a fuse. I don't know which one or where it is located.
same problem as mine before until now i have still the same problem because my warranty expires. i bought them to the dealer and they replace the motor and latch but it goes back every winter times.
I just bought a 2012 Armada that was a GM demo. I noticed that the rear liftgate is sensitive and sometimes the auto entry works and sometimes it doesn't. It is especially bad when the car has been sitting overnight - I will hold the button and I will hear a beeping coming from the car but it won't open. The beeping will continue for a while after I am driving. Then when I get where I am going it suddenly works.
I just picked it up from the dealer after having been there for 8 days (I've only had the car for 3 weeks!) and they replaced the door motor, but I am not convinced it has fixed the problem. It still seems to be sensitive, so not sure if anyone else has any ideas. I don't want to leave it there another week so maybe I can get an idea of what else it might be? Thanks!
I have your solution....I was having problem with my 07 QX56 and brought it into the dealership. My rear glass would "pop" on its own and the power lift gate would work sometimes.
The dealership had to replace the whole rear wiring harness which is all connected to the motor and sensor. Replace and works like new. The wiring harness also includes the rear window switch and the tail gate switch.
I know this is an old thread. However, after reading all I could and trying every solution mentioned, my final solution turned out to be completely different, even though I had very similar symptoms. I thought I'd share that solution in case anyone else stumbles across this thread looking for answers.
My symptoms were that the opening function was very intermittent and that intermittency seemed related to relative moisture or temperature. Worse in winter, better in summer. In addition, I could only open it from the back handle. The FOB and driver switch had no effect (not even a ding). When open, I could only close it manually. Again driver switch and FOB (as well as the back close switch) had no effect.
My earlier life as an electronic technician prompted me to start doing continuity tests on the harness. Sure enough the two right-most connectors (at the outside edge of the tailgate) were intermittent. These are the connectors that ultimately wind their way through the tailgate and terminate at the dreaded Gate Control Module deep in the bowels of the right rear quarter-panel. Looking at the pins in the connectors revealed a dark coloration on what should be clean aluminum.
A little contact cleaner spray from Radio Trash, directed at both the male and female connectors, and the problem was solved.
The recommendation then, before you start shot-gunning parts, is to pull apart every connector you can find in the rear, clean the contacts and firmly seat them back together. This is particularly the case if your symptoms are intermittent, or appear to change with temperature or humidity.
If you take it to a dealer, they will be more than happy to replace the entire wiring harness and charge you accordingly.
Thanks Bobeast for reactivating this thread, because my 06 Armada now has a manual liftgate and its a real PITA!
It seemed to operate properly for the first few months after I bought her used at 124k in November. Down here in Georgia, it's still pretty mild that time of year, so Thinking back, my liftgate fail did coincide with the arrival of colder weather.
I'll see if I can locate these rear harnesses you mentioned and will check the connections.
I picked up the liftgate struts from my local Nissan dealership this morning because I was too impatient to wait days for shipping. Cost me $58 for both left and right side, which was a little steeper than on line vendors.
The install was 25 minutes for me because I had a hard time getting those clips back on. After I completed the installation I noticed right away that the lift gate stayed open without assistance. The moment of truth was when I used the key FOB and the liftgate closed automatically.
The problem must have been with the drivers side (left) strut. The pressurized end had leaked oil all over it so that was the issue.
Thanks to the heads up provided here, my issue is resolved!
Since my issue was resolved after replacing the struts, I never located the wiring harness. I too, would like to know its location since cleaning those connections wouldn't hurt.
"The recommendation then, before you start shot-gunning parts, is to pull apart every connector you can find in the rear, clean the contacts and firmly seat them back together. This is particularly the case if your symptoms are intermittent, or appear to change with temperature or humidity."
Resurrecting an old post, but my '12 started acting up the other day with the very same issue. Intermittent beeping, then the door wouldn't work all the time, til finally it didn't work at all, the power side, that is. Could still open manually. We had been driving around in hard rain, and I thought maybe, maybe that had something to do with it not working. Sure enough, the next morning I went out to the garage and tugged on the handle, and voila! it opened! Key fob, dash, and rear buttons all worked, and every time! So, that's good, BUT, why is moisture getting in, and how can I fix that? And where can I locate said wiring harness and connectors as mentioned above?
Hello,
I hope someone can answer this one. I have a similar, less serious issue with my lift-gate. If I use a touch-less car wash the lift-gate beeps (different sound than when it opens normally) and won't work from the fob or dashboard switch - only from the outside handle. Doesn't happen when I hand wash the Armada Anyone else had this problem?
I get this too from touchless car pressure washes. I think the high pressure gets water into the connectors or sensors where it shouldn't, and causes the beeping. The lift function didn't stop working for me through. After a day it seems to dry/stop.
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