C1142 diagnosis (SLIP, VDC, & BRAKE lights on) - Page 3 - Nissan Armada Forum: Armada & Infiniti QX56 Forums
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post #21 of 27 Old 11-25-2014, 03:38 PM
Glenn911
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I'm sick of this. Been chasing a VDC, SLIP ABS, 4WD light issue for 2 years. Am sitting in the dealership and am told there is a intermittent short in the wire from left rear speed sensor to ABS control unit. Speed sensor checks out, so the continuity issue is in the harness somewhere. The tech didn't look too excited when I asked him to find the short. After 1.5 hours nothing. So I told them, to put it back together and I'll find it.

Question, can I just cut and splice a new wire so I don't have to find the break? Also, need a wiring diagram for an 06 Armada LE. Shitty thing is the truck runs awesome.

Any help or insight would be great. I've replaced both front and rear bearings and speed sensors, both brake fluid pressure sensors and the ABS ECU (at their cost).
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post #22 of 27 Old 11-25-2014, 04:49 PM
Kooshtaka
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Delta sensor (brake booster) replaced? I know this is going to sound dumb, but how is the brake fluid level? Try checking to see if there's a leak... even a small one. I got some of those lights when my right rear flex brake fluid hose got a hole rubbed through one side.
Good luck in tracking down the cause and curing.

'05 Mada LE Slate
Mods Done: UpRev, Bilstein 5100s in front, PRG 2" rear spaces, R1 Premium Drilled & Slotted Rotors, PosiQuite pads, Volant GenII CAI, 8K HID Lows, LEDs by ArmaDen, 3k HID Fogs, and Delete middle row console.
Mods in progress: JBA LT, PRT 300-cell hi-flo cat'd b-pipes, Borla xlr-1 muffler w/custom tubing, LED Engine Bay LEDs, Custom Suspension Lift by PRG, Custom PRG front & rear shocks, Custom PRG Rear springs.
Mods in contemplation: GoodHood or custom hood, Steel front and rear bumpers, upgraded front springs, Custom roof rack and cargo basket, Additional lighting.
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post #23 of 27 Old 07-10-2015, 11:42 AM
morales_rafael95
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sensors didnt work on mine

2011 armada: code c1142
when i received it, they had replaced the pressure sensors on the master cylinder but looks like that didnt fix the problem. i did notice that the light doesn't come on when its cold though. im thinking possible ABS ECU on mine, looking for a way to check resistance on it before swapping it out. On mine, when it heats up, the pressure sensor 2 doesn't mark positive value on my scanner. will try and post when i find solution. Also would like info on that updated software for the ecm
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post #24 of 27 Old 08-11-2015, 05:29 PM
F4N4EVR
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Had same problems, same symptoms, same cover up misdiagnosis by Nissan to prevent them from being held accountable for repairing a very poorly dsigned electrical system.
Ultimately, to fix the problem, I installed a full grounding kit with SOLDERED connections. (Learned here on clubarmada) Crimped on cheapo short cut components are what causes the electrical problems.
Removed the doughnut voltage sensor from the battery ground wire. Replaced the 10 cent cheapo alloy battery clamps with solid (not hollow) lead ones.
The vdc/antislip/abs/4wd system is super voltage sensitive. If system voltage drops below about 11.7, you will have problems. Cold contracts the cheapo alloy factory battery clamps forcing good contact. Armada computer system is misprogrammed (no fix) to register full charge as 12.1 volts. Voltage drop from battery to electrical system component, or ipdm is 1 volt before you even start the car. So you need a minimum of 12.7 volts at the battery to get 11.7 at the vdc computer section. But the nissan computer says 12.1 at the battery is a full charge and shifts the alternator to maintenance charge voltage instead of recharge voltage which is required for the system to meet minimum required voltage levels.
With the grounding kit, it reduces system voltage leaks and generates cleaner electric system sensor reads. Next, add a ground wire into the grounding kit that goes from the alternator ground lead (soldered connector) to the ground kit (soldered in).
The factory alternator ground runs to the ipdm which is not a true ground and works for crap. Thie new improved ground wire, with the removal of the voltage sensor doughnut on the negative battery wire takes nissan out of the charging system. Then, the alternator doesn't get lied to and it sends correct necessary charging voltage to the battery. If you get an AGM battery, whose base reference voltage is 13.2 volts, the alternator will keep it charged to 13.2 volts and the electrical system will always have a minimum of 12.2 volts after the misprogrammed computer involvement, with normal charging voltage, depending on load applied, of 13.4-14.2 volts, and your system will work like it's supposed to.

Further voltage fubars and nissan snafus will be if you are driving along at highway speeds and the vdc engages by itself and slams on the breaks at one corner or another for no reason. If you retain control of the vehicle (always drive with two hands on the wheel until above listed fixes are installed) it will only take two or three brake vdc slams to wear the front bearing packs out of spec. Note: it usually takes 5-7 visits to nissan until you figure out that's not the place to go to get maldesigned systems fixed. And nissan 3rd hand factory subcontracted dealership maintenance facilities will bilk you for every dollar they can because they are not repair facilities, they are simply parts swapping facilities.
After doing the electrical system repairs listed above, I have now had the same battery going on 4 years, it's resting voltage is still 13.2, and ALL other gremlin lights have stopped.
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post #25 of 27 Old 11-26-2015, 04:08 AM
Evan III
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F4N4EVR, I've read several of your posts concerning the doughnut sensor on the negative cable. I have a few questions for you on this. First when you say you removed it, does that mean you took it off completely? If so what did you do with the 3 wires that are plugged into it? Is this better then your other fix using aluminum to shield the sensor? And last, did the soldered grounding kit come pre made or did you build it yourself? Thanks
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post #26 of 27 Old 12-21-2015, 09:04 PM
RonceDaddy
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c1142 error

Got this code unfortunately on a road trip with all these lights coming on, however the vehicles function did not change I did not have any issues driving the car with the lights on, got a diagnosis asap with this code. If you read Toy Haulers posts on here he is spot on, all it needed was the brake master cylinder sensors got for 115 online can be found easily and it could not be easier to replace yourself. Don't let this issue deter you from the armada or titan, though annoying relatively cheap easy fix if needed. Mine was 04 armada with 60k on it.
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post #27 of 27 Old 12-22-2015, 05:12 PM
ehidle
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evan III View Post
F4N4EVR, I've read several of your posts concerning the doughnut sensor on the negative cable. I have a few questions for you on this. First when you say you removed it, does that mean you took it off completely? If so what did you do with the 3 wires that are plugged into it? Is this better then your other fix using aluminum to shield the sensor? And last, did the soldered grounding kit come pre made or did you build it yourself? Thanks
It's not a voltage sensor. It's a current sensor. Removing it removes the car's ability to detect that the battery is being discharged when it isn't supposed to be. This device does not cause any electrical issues, and removing it does nothing to improve electrical quality. In fact, since it is a ferrite coil, its presence reduces high frequency noise since it acts like a ferrite bead.

Removing it is.... not advisable.

Engineer, cyclist, pilot, geek.
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