I don't post much here but do lurk around and use the site for info/ideas. However, I do try to contribute when the opportunity arises, so I decided I would do a brief diy guide for those capable and confident enough to try.
****PLEASE NOTE: I am not a formally trained mechanic, or ASE or Nissan certified. Proceed at your own risk.****
I'm a diehard DIY'er and just cringe at paying $100/hr for most basic repairs. A month or so ago the radiator cracked on my 04 Armada. Left me stranded on the side of the road...with boat in tow. Thankfully it was cool out so the motor didn't get too hot before I shut it down and even more thankful that I was only about 15min from my home. I limped it home, called the dealer and got the bad news....$500 for a replacement part. A quick online search didn’t turn up any significant discount and the dealer had one in stock so off to the parts dept I went.
Here is a pic of the crack. The only other thread on radiator replacement I found online the radiator had cracked in the exact same spot, pass side-lower corner. If you’re out of warranty I would inspect this area at every oil change.
I would rate it about 3 out of 10 on a difficulty level and only needed basic tools. Tools I used: 8,10mm box wrench (ratcheting), ¼” & 3/8” drive 8/10mm sockets, ¼” drive swivel & extension, ¼” & 3/8” drive ratchet, screw driver, pliers and a bucket or pan.
1. Disconnect battery. Remove engine cover and intake pipe.
2. Underneath, drain radiator by unscrewing large plastic bolt on lower pass side. Also remove lower radiator hose as it will also be holding fluid. Here is a pic of the underside (sorry, only took pics of replacing, I'm just reversing pic order)
3. Disconnect and plug up the trans cooler lines. I used some bolts to plug up the lines and some wire shelving caps to contain the oil in the radiator (to keep the mess down).
4. Disconnect the top hoses and all hoses clipped to the shroud.
5. Loosen fan shroud, but leave one bolt to hold it in place.
6. Remove 4x10mm nuts holding fan clutch to water pump, remove the last fan shroud bolt and pull fan out between the radiator and shroud.
7. Remove fan shroud.
8. Loosen outer most bolts on core support for the condenser.
9. Loosen two top radiator bolts and tilt radiator forward to remove two bolts holding trans cooler to the radiator.
10. Lift condenser off the radiator (it is just set down into two mounts on the bottom) and secure it up in the bumper area. Secure trans cooler as well.
11. Lift radiator up and out of its mounts. Remove it from vehicle.
12. Installation is reverse of removal.
13. I filled up radiator and reservoir with a 50/50 (since I’m in the south I dilute it more like 65/35 or so for better cooling) mix of anti-freeze (dealer told me their techs use regular Peak brand) and distilled water. Start the engine and leave the cap off the reservoir (not the radiator) while the engine warms up and continue to top it off as the system bleeds. You should see bubbles in the reservoir as they are worked out of the system. Once the car has warmed up and run for a few minutes you can put the cap back on. You should also check the transmission fluid and top off as necessary. Check the coolant level again after a day or so. And keep an eye on your temp gauge in the interim.
It really wasn't all that difficult and I had it done in a few hours (that includes figuring out how to get everything out). I hope this will help anyone that needs to replace their radiator. I now have about 1000mi on it with no issues.
****PLEASE NOTE: I am not a formally trained mechanic, or ASE or Nissan certified. Proceed at your own risk.****
I'm a diehard DIY'er and just cringe at paying $100/hr for most basic repairs. A month or so ago the radiator cracked on my 04 Armada. Left me stranded on the side of the road...with boat in tow. Thankfully it was cool out so the motor didn't get too hot before I shut it down and even more thankful that I was only about 15min from my home. I limped it home, called the dealer and got the bad news....$500 for a replacement part. A quick online search didn’t turn up any significant discount and the dealer had one in stock so off to the parts dept I went.
Here is a pic of the crack. The only other thread on radiator replacement I found online the radiator had cracked in the exact same spot, pass side-lower corner. If you’re out of warranty I would inspect this area at every oil change.
I would rate it about 3 out of 10 on a difficulty level and only needed basic tools. Tools I used: 8,10mm box wrench (ratcheting), ¼” & 3/8” drive 8/10mm sockets, ¼” drive swivel & extension, ¼” & 3/8” drive ratchet, screw driver, pliers and a bucket or pan.
1. Disconnect battery. Remove engine cover and intake pipe.
2. Underneath, drain radiator by unscrewing large plastic bolt on lower pass side. Also remove lower radiator hose as it will also be holding fluid. Here is a pic of the underside (sorry, only took pics of replacing, I'm just reversing pic order)
3. Disconnect and plug up the trans cooler lines. I used some bolts to plug up the lines and some wire shelving caps to contain the oil in the radiator (to keep the mess down).
4. Disconnect the top hoses and all hoses clipped to the shroud.
5. Loosen fan shroud, but leave one bolt to hold it in place.
6. Remove 4x10mm nuts holding fan clutch to water pump, remove the last fan shroud bolt and pull fan out between the radiator and shroud.
7. Remove fan shroud.
8. Loosen outer most bolts on core support for the condenser.
9. Loosen two top radiator bolts and tilt radiator forward to remove two bolts holding trans cooler to the radiator.
10. Lift condenser off the radiator (it is just set down into two mounts on the bottom) and secure it up in the bumper area. Secure trans cooler as well.
11. Lift radiator up and out of its mounts. Remove it from vehicle.
12. Installation is reverse of removal.
13. I filled up radiator and reservoir with a 50/50 (since I’m in the south I dilute it more like 65/35 or so for better cooling) mix of anti-freeze (dealer told me their techs use regular Peak brand) and distilled water. Start the engine and leave the cap off the reservoir (not the radiator) while the engine warms up and continue to top it off as the system bleeds. You should see bubbles in the reservoir as they are worked out of the system. Once the car has warmed up and run for a few minutes you can put the cap back on. You should also check the transmission fluid and top off as necessary. Check the coolant level again after a day or so. And keep an eye on your temp gauge in the interim.
It really wasn't all that difficult and I had it done in a few hours (that includes figuring out how to get everything out). I hope this will help anyone that needs to replace their radiator. I now have about 1000mi on it with no issues.