Well, sent my Armada in for a wheel alignment. Not sure if the guy was lazy and didnt want to put in extra effort but he said the rear bolts were seized. He said the only way is to cut off the lower control arm and replace with new hardware. The guy said hes not applying heat to them due to the bushing inside. I told him take the truck off the alignment machine and i'll be on my way haha.
I have been spraying it daily with the new wd-40 "blue torch formula" in hopes of getting them to come free. Giving it a few days and bringing it to my buddies shop to see if they can align it.
Worst case scenario, where have you guys picked up new lower control arms for the rear? Any other ideas to try out? Thanks in advance!
What part of the country are you in?
Usually if you apply enough force you will break the bolt off and just have to replace the bolt, but being that its 8 almost 8 years old a new set of LCA's wouldnt hurt either, I guess depends on your budget.
djjukeboxhd , it sounds like your alignment is out of spec. Time to bring it in to try to get it aligned. Keep in mind, worn suspension components can/will cause premature tire wear.
mcm1209, I am in the northeast in the sticks of upstate NY.
I decided to upgrade to the stiffer rear springs with a pair of firestone helper bags for towing days. Just trying to find time in my busy work schedule to install them and then dropping the truck off at my buddies shop.
Any of you guys have a lead on a place I can order lower control arms? How about the alignment bolts?
Not true!! They don't know how and or lazy!
Google armada alignment and you will see how many threads there are on that subject. Member on here named POPS had to go to about 6 shops before the alignment was right.
Im about to take mine to my friends alignment shop. He deals with suspension 90% of the time and has 3 alignment machines. Been happy with what he has done to my Chevy's. See what he can do to the Mada now.
Actually my rear bolts were seized also. My brother is a Hyundai tech and he did the alignment and he said he didn't want to force the bolts because of a chance of snapping it.
If the adjustment cam bolts are seized you are probably screwed! I have not been able to free them up EVER! Nissan only sells "some" of the rear bushings seperate. If both the toe and camber adjusters are seized you will need some new bushings and new lower control arms....have not found aftermarket replacements yet. You will be using a sawzall to remove old parts....big fun!
I was lucky though because my brother was able to adjust the rear alignment enough to be within spec until the cam bolts couldn't move anymore. I haven't had an uneven tire wear since then.
KingRJ;388657 If both the toe and camber adjusters are seized you will need some new bushings and new lower control arms...[/QUOTE said:
This is true. The bolts rust and so do LCA, and in effect fuse together. Once they are seized, time for new control arms from Nissan. No way around it.
I lube mine with PB blaster twice a year to ensure that they don't seize up. Once before the winter season, and once after. Common problem in the Armada and QX56.
Installing new LCAs, coil buckets and hardware is the only to way to repair and correct the alignment once those bolts are seized.
I spent about $425 and that was with a 15% discount a local Nissan parts dept had given me.
The cost of the parts didn't bother me; trying to remove those seized bolts was a huge PITA.
After it seemed like forever just to cut thru one bolt, I called up a friend with an oxy-acy torch and got all those seized bolts out in no time.
I think I am going to run into the same issue when I replace my rear springs & shocks when the weather gets better. PrimoV8 was the $425 cost for parts and labor, I found the lower rear suspension arm for $35.41 part # 511B0M on Courtesy Parts. Are those the correct items I would need to resolve any alignment issues after the spring replacement?
That was just parts alone; I do my own repairs and maintenance.
The part you found are the coil buckets which also requires a specific set of camber bolts. The adjustment bolts that connect the coil buckets to the subframe are slightly shorter than the adjustment bolts that connects the lower control arms. With that said, you'll probably need new LCAs if the bolts have seized on them too.
When that time comes to get the work done, make sure to coat ALL the bolts with anti-seize. I even went as far as swabbing the inside of the all bushings on the coil buckets and LCAs with anti-seize so that if and when another alignment is necessary, it would make adjusting the rear IRS much easier.
Besides the local dealer, I would check parts.nissanusa.com as I've found several participating dealers that have much better prices than Courtesy along with cheaper shipping costs too.
There is a recall and complete replacement of all four lower control arms. I accidently found out about it and took my 07 in. The dealership said they didn't notify anyone with a vehicle over 5 years old because they want you to buy a new car, not even think about the old one lasting.... Check and see if the recall is out for your year. The originals were stamped cheapo thin steel that flexed, caused excessive tire wear and bump steer. When Nissan replaces them, they won't lube the cv shafts or wheel bearing blocks, so be aware of the need to order them to lube everything, and apply anti seize to what they don't lube. When dealing with the dealerships, you need laser etched instructions, NRO satellite based oversight, and nuclear powered follow up or they will try and get away with short shafting everything. If you have bilsteins, the new lower control arms will make the car behive like it was supposed to, in the first place.
There is a recall and complete replacement of all four lower control arms. I accidently found out about it and took my 07 in. The dealership said they didn't notify anyone with a vehicle over 5 years old because they want you to buy a new car, not even think about the old one lasting.... Check and see if the recall is out for your year. The originals were stamped cheapo thin steel that flexed, caused excessive tire wear and bump steer. When Nissan replaces them, they won't lube the cv shafts or wheel bearing blocks, so be aware of the need to order them to lube everything, and apply anti seize to what they don't lube. When dealing with the dealerships, you need laser etched instructions, NRO satellite based oversight, and nuclear powered follow up or they will try and get away with short shafting everything. If you have bilsteins, the new lower control arms will make the car behive like it was supposed to, in the first place.
The recall specifically states it on applies to the LCAs that were purchased, replaced from a certain timeframe (11/25/09-05/14/10). I remember getting the letter, brought the truck in thinking I was getting new LCAs. Instead I was told because I had never replaced them, they weren't affected by the recall.
Although it wouldn't hurt to contact your local dealer just to make sure. Nothing wrong with a free pair(s) of new LCAs on Nissan's pocket.
I think I found the correct LCA part # 551A1. Would you happen to have the other parts numbers for the bolts / nuts needed for alignment. I am also going to call the dealer to see if I get lucky with the LCA recall.
Here you go:
(R) LCA 551A0-ZQ00A
(L) LCA 551A1-ZQ00A
LCA non-camber bolts x (2) 080B4-4001A
LCA camber bolts x (2) 54580-7S000
Nuts x (8) 08918-6441A ***Enough for all the new bolts; camber, non-camber and coil bucket***
LCA disc-eccentric x (4) 54559-1Z600 ***One for each camber bolt, LCA and coil bucket***
Coil bucket camber bolt x (2) 55226-7S001
Coil bucket non-camber bolt x (2) 55080-7S010
PrimoV8 you are the best! I have a 2004 also and the alignment is way off. Once all the snow stops I plan to install new Moog spring /shocks and relating hardware to get it aligned, in hopes of reducing the rear end jumping around on bumps and to improve the height of the sagging backend.
If you do plan on doing the work yourself, rent, borrow, or invest ($200 from Northern Tool.com) on a portable oxy-acy torch kit. You'll be able to burn off those stubborn, seized bolts in no time. Just be careful on the drive side LCA as it faces the gas tank. We placed a flame retardant mat in between the LCA and gas tank while my friend was burning the bolts off.
You won't believe how much of a difference your truck will ride once you get it aligned correctly. Not only do you eliminate the rear end from jumping all over the place, the tires wear evenly and the stiffer Moog springs and non-leveling shocks improves the overall ride.
I've got Rancho XL9000 adjustable shocks on the rear and removed the Firestone bags awhile back.
After adding a 1.5" lift, I did install Timbren SES bumpstops all around since the OE bumpstops are shorter; it created too large of a gap between the subframe and the OE bumpstops after the lift kit.
If you don't plan on lifting the truck, the Timbrens aren't necessary.
Old post but hopefully I can get some direction.... Anyone try to replace the LCA bushings? Siezed up pretty good... No clue how to get these little bastards out without spending crazy money on a good press
Ok, I hate to bring a post back from the dead buuuuut...
Will these part numbers work for my 08 Armada?
(R) LCA 551A0-ZQ00A
(L) LCA 551A1-ZQ00A
LCA non-camber bolts x (2) 080B4-4001A
LCA camber bolts x (2) 54580-7S000
Nuts x (8) 08918-6441A ***Enough for all the new bolts; camber, non-camber and coil bucket***
LCA disc-eccentric x (4) 54559-1Z600 ***One for each camber bolt, LCA and coil bucket***
Coil bucket camber bolt x (2) 55226-7S001
Coil bucket non-camber bolt x (2) 55080-7S010
All my rear alignment bolts are froze, I'm taking it in to the dealership tomorrow to see what they say (and to see if they can get them loose)
but it looks like I'm going to be replacing all that crap in the rear.