AC Actuator Replacement on an Armada - Nissan Armada Forum: Armada & Infiniti QX56 Forums
User Tag List

 
Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 6 Old 11-28-2010, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
okivice
SHIFT_Lurker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 11
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
 
AC Actuator Replacement on an Armada

First of all I would like to Thank TitanTX Pro4X for the excellent post with pics concerning the Possessed WoodPecker noise behind the dash, plus I would like to provide a link to his thread to be used with this Armada specific thread. With the help of TitanTX's thread and a mechanical inclination I was able to complete this task in approximately 1.5 hours.

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tita...sh-w-pics.html

Below I have also provided the link to pics of the components I removed to get to the lower actuator on my 06 Armada LE. Can't say that all Armada's are the same throughout models and years, but they should be close. Upon comparing my Titan LE to my Armada LE I noticed that access to the actuator on the Titan is much easier.

http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/j...tuator%20Pics/

Pic 1: Start of the project.

Pics 2 & 3: There are two screws that secure the plastic cover below the steering wheel. Remove them and pop the panel off then disconnect three or less plugs on left side if applicable.

Pics 4a & 4b: Remove plastic heater panel on rightside of drivers seat. Remove metal plate held in by 4 bolts underneath the steering column. Plastic heater panel is removed by giving it a nice tug at the rear of it then slide it toward rear of vehicle.

Pics 5 & 6: Gas pedal assembly. Removal of the two 7mm screws will allow the pedal adjustment motor to be removed. Don't forget to remove the small cable (Gold in color) between the motor and the gas pedal assembly. It will fall out and is easily lost as the gas pedal assembly is removed. Without it the pedal adjustment feature does not function for the gas pedal. Three nuts hold the gas pedal assembly in place. Two on top and one on the bottom. Be careful the nuts like to fall and hide underneath the carpet.

Pic 7: The components that blocked access to the actuator assembly on the Armada LE.

Pics 8a & 8b: Four 10mm bolts hold the bottom component on. Remove them and the one component to gain access to the two 10mm bolts that hold the remaining components in place. I discovered that unplugging the blue plug made it easier to slide them down past the upper screws where the gas pedal mounts. Once removed it can be hung conveniently out of the way on the center console.

Pics 9 & 10: I used a flat head screwdriver placed between the mounting plate and the white cam gear to hold it in place prior to removing the actuator and while it was removed. The actuator can then be rotated until it lines up and slides in. Remove screwdriver then rotate actuator until the top slot is aligned with the tab next to the upper screw hole. Slide it over the tab to hold it in place while the screws are installed.

With actuator replaced, re-assemble the dash components in reverse and the Possessed Woodpecker exorcism is complete. My wife wanted to let the stealership repair it, but once she got the estimate of $350-$400 plus the cost of the part she was convinced that the do it myself program was the way to go. I knew she would see it my way.
okivice is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 6 Old 12-01-2010, 10:10 PM
DeepCat
SHIFT_Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Plainfield, NJ
Posts: 83
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
 
Wow! Glad mine is under warrantee.
Thanks for the great post.

2010 Armada Platinum 4WD
Tuscan Sun
Tow Mirrors, Rubber Mats, TBD
30' Ever-Lite Camping Trailer
DeepCat is offline  
post #3 of 6 Old 05-21-2014, 01:45 AM
what the!?
SHIFT_Lurker
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
 
Thanks for the great post! It took me about 2.5 hours and a lot of f bombs, but I finally got it done. Nissan wanted $700. Infiniti wanted $900.

Luckily I didn't have any screws left over.

Now I'm just hoping the other ones don't give out anytime soon.

107k miles so far.
what the!? is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 6 Old 11-05-2015, 12:47 PM
PinaColArmada
SHIFT_Lurker
 
PinaColArmada's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: The Dirty South
Posts: 6
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
 
Thanks for this post. I am going to tackle this in the upcoming weeks. Just finished replacing my oil cooler gasket yesterday - the infamous Nissan leak (http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/sho...t=13048&page=2)

Thanks again for the post.

2005 Armada LE - All original for now...planning to make it my 4x4 weekend toy and kid hauler in the near future.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
PinaColArmada is offline  
post #5 of 6 Old 11-17-2015, 01:56 PM
ISBB
SHIFT_Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 60
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
 
Can this exorcism occur in the rear as well? I have the same sound but from the rear of the vehicle.

Thanks,
ISBB is offline  
post #6 of 6 Old 06-06-2017, 06:47 PM
c1scodilla
SHIFT_Lurker
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
 
I've been dealing with that knock for over 3 years now. After reading your post I finally had the courage to attempt the exorcism. I read in other threads that to do this fix you need to be limber like a 12 year old girl. I'm about 6' 2" and 280 lbs with XL hands...so I had a bit of a tight fit. Getting both hands up there was a challenge. The fix took me about 4 hours due to running around acquiring tools and inadvertently knocking the CAM off which added about 1 HR to the effort. unfortunately I mis-read the portion about placing the screw driver between the cam and the mounting plate. I placed the screwdriver behind the white CAM essentially knocking the CAM right out from the get go. I had to remove the black mounting plate to figure out how the CAM hangs on.

I don't think the screw driver is necessary, simply make sure inward pressure is always applied to the CAM. Setting the new actuator was a bit of a challenge and found better luck just placing the actuator gear against the female portion of the box and turning on the ignition. Allow the start up maneuvers to roll until the gear sets in.

Ultimately having the LE made made slightly more difficult because of the AMP placement. This was the only thread that offered comprehensive instructions for LE models.

The fix cost me a total of 30$ (Cost of Actuator) as opposed to the 750$ being quoted by the local mechanic.
No more knocking...Hoorah!!!!
c1scodilla is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode


Forum Jump

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome