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Thoughts on Brake Rotors and Pads? Ebay items?

24K views 88 replies 18 participants last post by  ntrddragn 
#1 ·
I have started shopping for Brake Rotors and Pads for my 2006 Armada.

Before going to Ebay I priced out the following:

R1 Concepts Rotors (Drill/slotted) and EBC Pads - total around $480-500 for rear and front.

I have bought pads and rotors before in ebay from discounted stores with good ratings on ebay. They worked great, but only did this once for my lexus Rx300.

I looked around and found like Callahan or Brake Motive... I can get Rotors and pads for like $200.

I have looked around and I see reviews saying some love them and some say they didn't last. With this price I could go through 2 sets before I pay the retail price above for R1 Concepts and EBC pads.

Curious on what people out on this forum think and have done in the past?
 
#33 ·
One warning though if ordering through Amazon. So I ordered 2 sets of power stop kits, front and rear, for my M3 and the QX56. The M3 kit wasn't in stock at amazon so I ordered from cartoys.com. Cartoys shipped the items properly, the front kit is one box and the rear is a second box, and they shipped each box individually with it's own shipping label.

For some bizarre reason, amazon tapes the two boxes together and ships it as one unit. The problem is the boxes are heavy and designed to have the pads (and sensors if needed) on top of the rotors as to not crush them. By taping the boxes together both boxes were crushed and mangled upon arrival. Not a warm-fuzzy feeling for something that will be stopping your vehicle.

Mind you, this was a year or so ago, and at the time I submitted a complaint to amazon and notified power stop of amazon's shipping practices with their kits. Hopefully, they've fixed this process by now.
 
#34 ·
Look into Centric Premium rotors and pads. I have them on my Tundra and they are very good. The Tundra had similar issues to the Titan in regards to rotors warping. The Centrics are way better than factory rotors and the premium ceramic pads leave very little dust and do not squeak. When our Armada gets ready for new brakes that is what I will be buying.
 
#42 ·
Update

Alright guys, I have an update. Although is not the kind of update you are all expecting, here it goes. I was unable to get the rotors and all the stuff installed due to a mix up on my order from CarID.

It turns out they shipped a set of 320mm rotors instead of the 350mm that my QX comes equipped with. I called CarID and they are processing an RMA for my order. Problem is, that it is going to take them 2 to 3 business days to get me a shipping label, I don't understand why it will take them so long.

In short it will probably be another week before I get the right rotors in. On the bright side the shop that I took it to didn't charge me for taking apart the whole front suspension of the truck. All in all CarID customer service was good and picked up the phone right away on a Saturday.



 
#43 ·
That's super annoying. Not sure why they can't email you a shipping label like every other company?

Rotors look real purdy though :)

I ordered mine from amazon and hoping the order comes in correctly. I should know the size exactly because this is my third set - not to mention taking it apart twice for resurfacing.

I've got time though - I won't get to install for a few weeks so I have time for damage / sizing issues if they arise.

Good luck with the exchange.
 
#44 ·
Well I got my set from Amazon and sure as S they crammed the front rotors in one box and they have a couple dings / scratches.

I want to confirm the size so I'm going to pull a wheel this weekend, then I'm going to talk to Amazon.

I worry they are just going to send the same in the same poor packaging though. And I'm not lugging these back to the post office.


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#48 ·
Finally!!

Okay CA I have finally done it. After 3 and a half hours of hard work it is done! and I couldn't be happier with the results.

It is a night and day difference, everything fitted perfectly, from rotors to the SS brake lines. I'm still in the brake in process and have put 15 miles on the new set up, but the difference is very notable.

Pedal travel has been reduced significantly, brake response has been improved, and stopping this big rig is now is a breeze. I will be putting more miles on the new set up over the weekend, but so far I'm loving all the improvements.

If you are still on the fence about the SS brake lines I would highly recommend making the switch, the brakes will more grabby (better response) and you will require less pressure on the pedal in order for the truck to start slowing down.

On to the pics.









Rob
 
#49 ·
Okay CA I have finally done it. After 3 and a half hours of hard work it is done! and I couldn't be happier with the results.



It is a night and day difference, everything fitted perfectly, from rotors to the SS brake lines. I'm still in the brake in process and have put 15 miles on the new set up, but the difference is very notable.



Pedal travel has been reduced significantly, brake response has been improved, and stopping this big rig is now is a breeze. I will be putting more miles on the new set up over the weekend, but so far I'm loving all the improvements.



If you are still on the fence about the SS brake lines I would highly recommend making the switch, the brakes will more grabby (better response) and you will require less pressure on the pedal in order for the truck to start slowing down.


Was installing the new brake lines pretty easy? Any tips? Does the armada kit come with 4 or 6 brake lines? I saw the titan's have a set of lines going to the axle, then a set from the axle to the wheel.



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#58 ·
Thanks Rob. Can you comment on how to prevent from losing brake fluid when changing the lines? I have changed calipers (and made a mess with the fluid) but never changed lines before.

Anything special to know? Torque ratings for the connectors? Finger tight then 1/4 turn or something like that?

TIA
If you have changed calipers, then you will not have any problems replacing the lines, as that is more than half the work you need to do to change the lines.

As far preventing brake fluid being spilled everywhere, there is really not much you can do, what I always do when I tackle this job is place a bucket or a plastic tray (you will need it for the bleed process anyways) underneath the area and unscrew the brake line slowly to let the pressurized fluid flow out slowly (you will find it doesn't take long for the pressure to drop) I also place a vice grip in the middle of the OEM line to limit the amount of fluid gushing out.

When it comes to tightening the SS lines, there's not really a torque spec to go with, just make sure it is very tight on both ends (caliper and hard line coming from the truck) also make sure you use the factory shims to secure the lines as the ones that come with the kit are kind of flimsy (this is normal on these kind of kits).

IMPORTANT NOTE: After you have installed everything and bled your brake system, make sure you check for leaks. Turn on the truck and press on the brakes a few time to build pressure in the system and check for leaks. I did it and saw nothing but after putting the wheels back on and driving it, the next day I saw a small puddle on the passenger rear, turns out that even though I tightened the SS line really good to the hard line, it was leaking a little. So I went ahead and tightened some more and voila! No more leak. I checked all four corners today before leaving for work and they are all dry as a desert.:)

Hope this info helps.

Rob
 
#61 ·
If you have changed calipers, then you will not have any problems replacing the lines, as that is more than half the work you need to do to change the lines.

As far preventing brake fluid being spilled everywhere, there is really not much you can do, what I always do when I tackle this job is place a bucket or a plastic tray (you will need it for the bleed process anyways) underneath the area and unscrew the brake line slowly to let the pressurized fluid flow out slowly (you will find it doesn't take long for the pressure to drop) I also place a vice grip in the middle of the OEM line to limit the amount of fluid gushing out.

When it comes to tightening the SS lines, there's not really a torque spec to go with, just make sure it is very tight on both ends (caliper and hard line coming from the truck) also make sure you use the factory shims to secure the lines as the ones that come with the kit are kind of flimsy (this is normal on these kind of kits).

IMPORTANT NOTE: After you have installed everything and bled your brake system, make sure you check for leaks. Turn on the truck and press on the brakes a few time to build pressure in the system and check for leaks. I did it and saw nothing but after putting the wheels back on and driving it, the next day I saw a small puddle on the passenger rear, turns out that even though I tightened the SS line really good to the hard line, it was leaking a little. So I went ahead and tightened some more and voila! No more leak. I checked all four corners today before leaving for work and they are all dry as a desert.:)

Hope this info helps.

Rob
Cool thanks. I was afraid you were going to say that. When I changed the caliper it made a mess.

One other thing - is there any danger of losing all the fluid from the master cylinder? Or does it eventually stop dripping? I'm thinking of taking the calipers off to paint them so it would be open for a while.

I'm looking around for a new caliper boot kit also. My orig ones from R1 have cracked and caused the guide pins to stick so I'm looking elsewhere. I think the pins may just need to be cleaned up but the boots are shot. Going to check my local parts store for oem's.
I've never heard of caliper slide kit boots coming with a brake kit? The shims for the pad bracket are included but never seen the boots. I make sure to lube them every brake job.

I have a 2004. I also put the powerstop kit on it and am pleased with the results. I've done quite a few mods that that vehicle as well. Theres a shot of it in the second post here:
http://www.clubarmada.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35634
Sweet ride man! Here's an old pic of mine but it pretty much looks the same except I replaced the front reflectors with color matched covers:

 
#62 ·
I bought the boot kits separately when I ordered the rotors. When I installed the R1's I cleaned and re lubed the pins and replaced the boots. I just don't think he R1 boots are as good as the oem's.
 
#64 ·
Me either. Glad I tried them and they lasted 30k but they rusted out pretty bad. I had big chunks flaking off the rotor ends and I'm sure that contributed to the crud on my wheels.
 
#66 ·
My new brakes will be here in time for the weekend. I also ordered new guide pin boots and parking brake shoes. I need to buy a new vacuum bleeder, since I have no clue where my old one is. Hoping for improve brake feel since they've never been bleed.


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#67 ·
Alright C.A I'm back with a 350 mile update.

I only have one issue to report and that is, Why haven't I've done this before?? These brakes have been great! No squeaking, no brake fade, no odd noises. It's been a combination of city and highway driving (truck is my daily and I commute 30 miles everyday to work) Brake response is great, pedal feel and travel is good, stopping power is much improved.

That's all

Rob
 
#71 ·
I followed the PS brake in procedure. Brake dust is moderate. I washed the truck after I installed everything (almost 3 weeks ago) we haven't had any rain and up until now is that I'm starting to notice the dust on the wheels.

Rob
 
#70 ·
Installed my fronts tonight. I do have noise, but it's the same noise I had will my previous slotted rotors. Is a swooshing sound even when not braking. The sound can only be heard when driving next a wall or fence. I expect the sound fade as the rotors and pads break in.
New
Disc brake Auto part Vehicle brake Brake Rim


Old
Auto part Wheel Disc brake Tire Rim



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#74 ·
Tuscan,

I received my stainless steel brake lines. They appear to be considerably thinner than the oem runner lines. Tirerack confirmed it's the correct part. Are yours thinner?

Also, I've done research and everyone says to get a line wrench. Do you know what size the nut is to release the flexible line from the hard line? Is it the same with the old and new parts?

Thanks


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#76 ·
Cool, thanks EJ.

One my question. I want to spray paint my calipers at the same time. I was planning to take them off (since I am replacing the lines anyway) but I'm afraid that all my fluid will leak out.

Is there a good way to plug the lines while the calipers are off the car or am I better off leaving them on and using a brush paint like G2?

I was planning to have the truck in the air for a couple of days while the paint set over the long holiday weekend.


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#78 ·
Use a vice grip and place it in the middle of the rubber line (OEM line), paint the calipers, and once you are ready to install them back, remove the rubber line, and install the SS lines.

To prevent a mess from getting messier, wrap the rubber line with paper towels and put a plastic bag on the end.
 
#79 · (Edited)
What you can use to "plug" the caliper is a vacuum cap on the old line. Leave it connected to the caliper. U can get them at an auto parts store. When you paint the calipers, make sure the pistons are fully retracted. In other words, push as much of the brake fluid out as will come out. You don't want paint on the pistons. That can be problematic, it can cause them to become sticky in that they won't retract.

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#80 ·
Thanks EJ. I bought some hose pinchers and read that if you put a sandwich bag under the master cylinder cap it will create a vacuum and stop the fluid.

With the cap you described, is that where the bleeder screw is?

I'm all set to go this weekend. Got the G2 paint, wire brushes for my drill, and a few days off if work.

Really looking forward to this!


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#81 ·
I just put Powerstop Extreme Truck and Tow One Click 4 wheel kit on our Armada (k2805-36). We had about 100,000 miles and had started to get a terrible squeal while backing up and the nice vibration in the steering wheel when braking. Conversion went well and no more squeal! Followed Powerstop's break in suggestion and now have silent brakes with no vibration! We don't tow much yet, but are getting ready for a trip to the Colorado mountains. We will know more about their performance after that.

FWIW...original front pads had about 50% left and rears about 75%. About a three hour job for me with break in.

Tip: For the best price on this kit, go to Powerstop's website and click on the links for their resellers. Find the lowest price and then call Summit Racing, they'll beat it. Took over $100 off the Summit price for me.

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#82 ·
spta97, Just gett'n back to the forum. You can get vacuum caps in various sizes. It's kinda hard to describe them if you haven't seen them but it is just a rubberized cap that you would use to plug a vacuume line at the source. Somewhere in the induction system where your vacuum lines are sourced from.

Anyway, those caps can be useful for capping brake lines pretty much anywhere if you have the right sizes.

The sandwich bag or any plastic wrap sounds like a pretty good idea on the brake reservoir, I could see that working. Let us know how it goes.
 
#83 ·
EJ,

Thanks for checking in. Here's how it went this weekend (I cross posted this on a TT thread so forgive if some parts sound out of place):

Friday:
I jacked up the truck and tested cleaning the rotors with the wire brush drill attachment. Everything seemed a go for Saturday.

In order to stop the fluid drips, I got these:

Amazon.com: OTC 4506 Fuel Line Clamp Set - 2 Piece: Automotive



As well as put a baggie under the brake fluid reservoir cap. Worked great until I had to remove the rubber lines. For that I had my gf step on the peddle which stops fluid from dripping but you still loose some.

Saturday:
I got wire brushes for my drill from Harbor Freight and spent most of of the day cleaning the calipers. What a PITA! They had the majority of rust removed but there were some places that were impossible to reach even with my dremmel. Where I could I used my bench grinder with the wire wheel on. I figure it should be ok as most of the vids I saw online people used a hand held wire brush for 5 minutes.

At about 8 pm I was ready to paint. I set them up in my basement verified at 66 degrees. The G2 paint itself sucks to work with. It is runny and doesn't stick well at all. The first two coats were about 30 minutes apart and it was still tacky. If I brushed too much the first coat would come off. I sat a fan in front of them for an hour and did a third coat on the parts that show. Glad I did as the back part still had the caliper surface bleeding through on sections.

I also was able to find the right lube - AGS BK4 Brake Lubricant. This is recommended for all surfaces and specifically the slider pins. The black stuff gums them up and could be the reason for my uneven pad wear.

I also found that you are not supposed to grease shimmed pads (my PS's have the rubber back so I didn't). I did gently grease where the pads ears sit in the carrier.

Sunday:
I just had enough time to install the brakes and calipers.

Here are the picks of my old crappy R1's after 40K - the rear ones are cracked too!



Here are the new power stops with the G2 painted calipers



Pretty happy with how they turned out.

Monday:

This was supposed to be an easy day - just install the stainless steel lines...boy was I wrong.

OMG the stainless steel lines were such a PITA it wasn't funny. They are not the same size as the OEM (slightly longer) but they were either touching the tire when turned one way or pulling too much when turned the other.

I then realized that they behave differently when the wheels are on the ground so I had to put the wheels on, lower it, then try. That went through about 4 iterations of disconnecting the lines and repositioning - blowing royally as it got to 10 PM by the time I finished.

I then had to re-bleed the fronts after it was all together (jacking the truck up again, removing the tires, then putting it together. What annoyed me is that the replacement lines (Goodridge) did not have the little "hook" on the banjo bolt that goes into the caliper to make it idiot proof like the OEM Armada lines. I was forced to loosen the banjo bolt with the copper washers everytime I repositioned them. I know you are not supposed to reuse them, but none of the auto stores in my area had them. Since it was only 13 ft/lbs and I did not actually drive at all I'm hoping it will be ok. No leaks at all for now.

The peddle is much firmer and my truck stops like never before though so all in all I'm happy.

I am getting a "tick-tick-tick" when applying the brakes that seems to be lessening as I drive. It almost sounds like the slots running past the pads. No idea what that is about but PowerStop said it could be faulty pads. I'll live with it an hopefully it will go away. Anyone here getting that? A couple guys on TT said they got the same but my R1's and OEM M3 brakes never made that noise. It almost sounds like a baseball card in your bicycle spokes but not as loud.

Anyway, thanks for the assistance guys!
 
#84 ·
That's exactly how my R1's looked!
 
#85 ·
Woah!....I didn't think the R1's would look that bad.

spta97 the new brakes look great. Glad to hear everything went without much hassle. I had the same tick noise you are describing, but mine went away as I put miles on the brakes. Did you only replaced the fronts?
 
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