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Transfer control issues while away for Thanksgiving

5K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  TopazM3 
#1 · (Edited)
HELP NEEDED! Transfer control issues while away for Thanksgiving

PLEASE SEE UPATE AT THE BOTTOM OF THE ORIGINAL POST

I recently started to experience erratic transfer case problems with my 04 Armada LE while taking my family out of town for Thanksgiving (of course it couldn't happen while I was around my house but had to wait for me to be hundreds of miles away from anything :rolleyes:). I read about several similar issues on this site but with one difference. Here are the symptoms:

1) 4WD mode comes on erratically while the car is in 2WD.
2) Switching to "Auto" shifts the mode to all wheel drive all of the time.
3) While driving at lower speeds (40 mph or so) the transfer case occasionally tries to switch between modes with clunking and jerking sounds and motions.

I was able to reset the controller by shutting the engine off in neutral with no brake engaged, putting the shifter to park, waiting 10 seconds, and then starting the car up again. After resetting, I've kept the car in 2WD and haven't seen the 4WD light up since (yet). No clunking, either.

From what I've read, it appears that the relays on the transfer case may be bad. Because I'm far from my tools and jacks, I can't lift the car to get underneath and look or replace relays. The transfer controller may be bad, too, but I can't determine that until I get back.

Some questions:

1) What are the steps needed to get the transfer controller to flash codes?
2) Am I on the right track with my initial hunch regarding the cause of the problem?

I will go through a full investigation when I get home, but I'm 500 miles away now and need to make sure the drive train will get me home on Sunday. :)

UPDATE: -- SUNDAY

DAMN, THINGS WENT TO HELL TODAY! My worst fears came true...after two days of no problems (resetting the transfer controller had been working), today everything went down the toilet while in the middle of nowhere. We were halfway between Knoxville and Asheville when the 4WD, VDC, ABC and SLIP lights came on, bucking at the transfer case, right front wheel locking up and grinding the pad to a smoldering mess. I had to pull over and let the brakes cool and then decided to limp the car back to Knoxville. Towing was not an option as we were in the MIDDLE OF NOWHERE! Once we got back to Knoxville, my family rented a car one way so they could get back home for school, etc., and I will deal with the car service here until it's fixed.

The intermittent ABS braking on the front right wheel and the grinding/jerking of the transfer case in the mountains as we headed for level land made for the most frightening drive of my life. I've driven in some very dicey situations, but this one takes the cake by far. There is nothing worse than when the computers crap all over themselves and create such a dangerous situation. :mad:

Tomorrow, I will take the car a few miles from my hotel room to a Nissan dealership because I have no choice. I suspect that the BCM and front right wheel sensor are shot as well as the T/F and VDC relays and perhaps the whole transfer controller box. The front right pad and rotor are certainly fried beyond all hope and will need to be replaced. I'm hoping/praying (perhaps futilely :( ) that the transfer gears are okay, but I really don't know at this stage.

ANYONE WITH POINTERS, SUGGESTIONS, ETC., PLEASE PM ME OR REPLY TO THIS THREAD. I'M NOW STUCK AND NEED TO GET THIS REPAIRED AND BACK HOME. THANKS!!

UPDATE: -- MONDAY

Initial assessment from Twin Cities Nissan in Alcoa, TN: Right wheel hub began to disintegrate internally and took out the wheel sensor with it. Because of the gradual collapsing of the hub initially (and then very rapidly at the end), the wheel began to cant inward and outward and the rotor rubbed against the pads at an angle (with no brake pressure applied) and then rubbed a good 1/4" - 1/2" off of the brake caliper mount itself. CV boot was shredded from the flying metal shards coming off of the broken hub. What I thought was an ABS failure with the calipers grabbing the rotor was actually the rotor rubbing furiously on the pads and brake mount. The ABS, VDC, SLIP and 4WD lights were on due to the failed wheel sensor that either burned up from the intense friction or was taken out by the metal flying from the wheel hub itself.

the plan is to replace the caliper mount, BOTH front wheel hubs with sensors (I asked that the left one be replaced, too, since it might also fail with similar miles on it as the right one), rotors/pads, CV boot, diagnostics on the transfer case controller and BCM (just to be sure they're good), brake line flush and bleed.

Had I driven the car much further, the wheel hub would have completely failed. Since I was nearing the mountains of Western NC, such a failure would have been catastrophic. Anyone who has been on that stretch of I-40 knows what I'm talking about.

I would like to thank Kooshtaka , Webturtel, TopazM3, and ntrddragn for responding and trying to help with this problem. You guys are good in my book!
 
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#2 ·
It might be that this problem is more esoteric and unusual than I thought, but if anyone has any experience with this, your insight would be greatly appreciated. Resetting the transfer case control has kept the car in 2WD and has stopped the bucking and clunking, but I want to get a permanent fix in place. From the previous threads and others experiences, I'm thinking that the problem is a bad relay, but I'm all ears if others have a different diagnosis. Thanks!
 
#4 ·
sorry, wish I could give you some pointers. :/

maybe send scr38 and or pops a pm?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
#5 ·
Your problem sound familiar. Someone had a similar issue but I am not sure what the out come was. So I'm just gonna ask...did you check all your oil levels? I mean all of them. Tranny oil, steering, engine etc.

Other then that I don't have an answer for you.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
#6 ·
Thanks, guys. I will refrain from PM'ing people since it's Thanksgiving, but if scr38 or Pops come online and see these posts, I would certainly appreciate their input.

I did some further exploration and still feel that the relay has gone bad and have ordered a new one to be shipped back home (~$30). I suspect that it will arrive the day after we return home from the trip.

I have to reset the transfer controller every time I start the car, which is a pain, but it sure beats the bucking and clunking otherwise.

To add insult to injury, the front right brake pads wore through to the point where they were creating a lot of noise and I had to do a hasty brake job at the local AutoZone. Their pads seem to be okay and should suffice for the trip home. The previous ones were EBC's and I will never buy those again. They don't last very long and have been noisy from day one, even with good shims and brake silencer on them. All other pads I have used have worked well, but it was the first time I tried EBC. Maybe some people have good luck with these pads, but I really don't care for them.

I know that others have said this on this forum before, but I'm really disappointed with the Armada brake design in general. They're inadequate for the size of the vehicle and the pads wear very quickly. Other than springing $4K for Brembos, I'm not aware of any other brake options. If others have ideas about a brake upgrade, please let me know. Thanks!
 
#8 · (Edited)
Just found them. The pair of Stillen calipers, pads, and rotors are now $2,200. Still cheaper than Brembos, though.

Also, going to start the journey home tomorrow with the transfer controller still acting crazy as hell. The reset procedure (described in my first post) is working and should get me back until I can figure out the problem at the home garage.
 
#9 ·
On the brake upgrade, someone on here IIRC has posted an upgrade to like an 08 Mada brakes. Gotta be cheaper than going to the stillen, you could perhaps get the brakes at a junk yard or an auto recycler. Just a thought.

As far as the "reset" on the xfer case, sounds like the reset is reseting ECU or one of those onboard computers. Which one I don't know, could be a relay or a firmware issue, I hope it's a relay but your guess is as good anyones. Hopefully Pops or scr38 will come on.
 
#12 ·
Sorry for late response, I don't get online everyday. Smart move having the other one replaced too. Kinda scary that you didn't notice the wheel bearings going bad, seems like there should've been some symptoms to indicate it sooner. At least it sounds like you found a good service dept. FWIW, KnoxTitan over on mightytitans.com is in Knoxville, Tn if you need any advice on local ammenities.
 
#13 ·
No worries, Pops, and hope you had a good Thanksgiving! :) I agree that some type of warning system for a failing hub would be a good idea. One minute it seems fine, the next you're in a friction nightmare and the wheel is trying to fly away. I can't recall what the service interval is for front wheel hubs, but my '04 has 122K on it, so I would suggest swapping them at 100K miles or sooner.

I think that Twin Cities Nissan should have the car ready by tomorrow at the latest, but if this drags on for another day, I'll give a shout to KnoxTitan and see what there is to do around Alcoa/Knoxville.
 
#16 ·
skieruscan,

Good job getting both sides done, it is a good practice. While you are at it though, I'd get the rear done as well. I don't recall ever seeing a service interval for the wheel bearings in the maintanence guide. Could be an oversight on my part though. There is a lot left out of the service guides though. My guess is that most people don't keep their cars long enough to really need these necessary services and that is why the MFG's don't put it in there.

On the other hand though, there are a number of us that tend to keep cars till the wheels litterally fall off. As in your case! I jest of course but I don't think important services like the wheel bearing maintenance, front and rear differential oil changes, believe it or not brake oil change, and the like should be left out of the service guide. Their hope is that these things will be taken care of by the service advisor if one takes their car to the dealership to be serviced regularly. Some of us can't afford that though and are "DIY'ers," but if you don't know to do these kind of things, how does one find out? As has been said, you don't know what you don't know.

I'm glad that you averted a near disaster, God was with you!
 
#17 ·
Funny you say that as I have just ordered the two rear ones and will replace them at my local shop. :) I thought about doing that on my own, but I will need a bearing puller and significant force to free the shaft from the rear differential and pull the hub forward to remove it. Not my idea of fun. Better to have my "go-to" shop here do that and pay a few hundred for the labor.
 
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