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C1142 diagnosis (SLIP, VDC, & BRAKE lights on)

143K views 34 replies 20 participants last post by  boandbabs 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I know there have been a few threads already posted regarding this problem but I thought it may be useful to post my findings on the topic separately.

My '06 turned on the SLIP, VDC OFF, and BRAKE warning lights on Friday after simply starting the vehicle. The brake pads and fluid level are all OK and the parking brake works properly as well.

I scanned the vehicle using a Snap-On Solus Pro and received a C1142 (Brake Pressure Sensor Malfunction) from the ABS ECU. I was able to retrieve the Nissan diagnostic procedure and wiring diagram for this code. The trouble code does not differentiate between the front and rear pressure sensors, both located on the bottom of the master cylinder. As per the diagnostic procedure, I checked the continuity of the harness between the sensor connector and the ABS ECU. All 6 wires read 0.3 ohms (good). I checked for source voltage on pin 3 of each sensor connector and read 5.0v (good). The ground wire, pin 1 of each sensor connector, had continuity (10 ohms) to the body ground. Finally, I back probed each signal wire from the sensor connector, pin 2, and read voltage between 0 and 5 volts (it varies depending on how hard you press the brake pedal).

Finally, I retrieved the data list from the ABS ECU so that I could read the pressure on the scan tool. Both sensors were reading identical pressures when the pedal was applied (~700psi with the engine off). Nissan simply says you should see a positive reading when applied and 0 when not. This checks out with my readings.

All of these findings, according to Nissan, validate that the sensors are good and the wiring between the sensors and the ABS ECU is OK. It also points to a possible problem with the ABS ECU.

However, a quick call to a friend at a local Nissan dealer (20-year Nissan tech) revealed that the sensors are bad. He said my diagnostic procedure and findings were correct. In his experience with Titans and Armadas, the sensors are the root cause of the problem, and replacing both sensors fixes it for good. He said there is no good rationale for it as the readings are all correct. The information regarding the range of the sensor is not listed in Nissan's service literature. The sensors may be giving a reading but that does not mean they are valid as far as the ABS ECU is concerned.

The part # for the sensors is 47240-7S000 and is available separate from the master cylinder. They are simple to replace and can be bled locally (at the sensor) without bleeding the entire system. They cost about $170.

Hope this helps.

P.S. Unrelated to C1142 but good to know: The booster sensors go bad too and you have to replace the entire booster.

ToyHauler
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Welcome to the wonderful recurring brake system issue with the Armada. I had my entire brake system practically replaced due to this two years ago on Nissan's dime thanks to the BBB, but I had the issue happen again the other day. There is a class action lawsuit on this issue pending in CA...hope it makes a National impact. If I could predict that I will be stationed in the CONUS US for the next 5 years, my Armada would probably be on its way to a trade in for a 3/4 ton Suburban or Sequoia. My wife has had it with this s$%&.
 
#3 ·
After a wheel alignment my vcd/slip light stayed on.. Paid $150.00 at the dealer for svc diagnostic. Nissan claimed I needed my system flushed & pads were low & needed replacing.. I just took it to my local guy who said my pads were fine so I just had him flush the brakes. He charged me $40 bucks. Nissan wanted $500.. I'm guessing Nissan just reset the system...
 
#4 ·
Currently my SLIP, VDC, & BRAKE lights are on along with the 4X4 light.
The fluid level was low so I topped that off but the lights stayed on. I then replaced the rear brakes because they were shot thinking that would take care of the light, still nothing. Any ideas on how to read the error codes on the truck and resolve this without going to the dealer. My brother suggested pulling the battery to clear the computer?
 
#5 ·
I know there have been a few threads already posted regarding this problem but I thought it may be useful to post my findings on the topic separately.

My '06 turned on the SLIP, VDC OFF, and BRAKE warning lights on Friday after simply starting the vehicle. The brake pads and fluid level are all OK and the parking brake works properly as well.

I scanned the vehicle using a Snap-On Solus Pro and received a C1142 (Brake Pressure Sensor Malfunction) from the ABS ECU. I was able to retrieve the Nissan diagnostic procedure and wiring diagram for this code. The trouble code does not differentiate between the front and rear pressure sensors, both located on the bottom of the master cylinder. As per the diagnostic procedure I checked the continuity of the harness between the sensor connector and the ABS ECU. All 6 wires read 0.3 ohms (good). I checked for source voltage on pin 3 of each sensor connector and read 5.0v (good). The ground wire, pin 1 of each sensor connector, had continuity (10 ohms) to body ground. Finally, I back probed each signal wire from the sensor connector, pin 2, and read voltage between 0 and 5 volts (it varies depending on how hard you press the brake pedal).

Finally I retrieved the data list from the ABS ECU so that I could read the pressure on the scan tool. Both sensors were reading identical pressures when the pedal was applied (~700psi with the engine off). Nissan simply says you should see a positive reading when applied and 0 when not. This checks out with my readings.

All of these findings, according to Nissan, validates that the sensors are good and the wiring between the sensors and the ABS ECU is OK. It also points to a possible problem with the ABS ECU.

However, a quick call to a friend at a local Nissan dealer (20 year Nissan tech) revealed that the sensors are bad. He said my diagnostic procedure and findings were correct. In his experience with Titans and Armadas the sensors are the root cause of the problem and replacing both sensors fixes it for good. He said there is no good rationale for it as the readings are all correct. The information regarding the range of the sensor is not listed in Nissan's service literature. The sensors may be giving a reading but that does not mean they are valid as far as the ABS ECU is concerned.

The part # for the sensors is 47240-7S000 and is available separate from the master cylinder. They are simple to replace and can be bled locally (at the sensor) without bleeding the entire system. They cost about $170.

Hope this helps.

P.S. Unrelated to C1142 but good to know: The booster sensors go bad too and you have to replace the entire booster.

ToyHauler
Anybody else solve this problem by changing these sensors? Anybody change them and not solve it?
 
#6 ·
I have those lights on but currently working on getting a code scanner to see what codes are being thrown. I did find that my passenger rear brake line was leaking, later of course. So not sure if this was the cause or a result.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I never got around to changing the sensors. The truck has behaved itself since I made my original post. However, two weeks ago I had a similar problem. Driving on I64 at a steady 70mph (cruise off) in a straight line the BRAKE, VDC OFF, and SLIP lights came on. I was not on the brake pedal and the steering wheel was perfectly centered. When I pressed the brakes (gently) the truck was able to slow down without issue. Next, I pulled off the nearest exit, came to a stop, and restarted. This time the lights did not go off. I continued my trip home with no loss of braking. This problem continued into the next day. Finally, after parking the vehicle for about an hour later in the day, I restarted and the lights were off. They have not come back on.

A friend of mine who works at a Nissan dealership says they have been experiencing problems with the brake light switch (black one, not the brown one). The brake lights in the back come on but the computer does not see a brake input signal. I have a new switch I am going to swap out, but it will be difficult to say if it fixed the problem as the truck is acting normally.

Anyone else try a new brake light switch?

Toy Hauler
 
#8 ·
have you already checked you're brake system for leaks? I'm hoping that is what my problem is as I had a leak in one of my flexible lines

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
#9 ·
All the brake lines are dry. The front pads are low, but have enough to pass state inspection. I will replace them next week.

I scanned the vehicle today and found C1142 was stored again. I hate the idea of throwing parts at a vehicle, but I am not sure what else to do at this point.

ToyHauler
 
#10 ·
from what I've read... it's gonna be replacing three delta sensors, replacing the brake booster, and or getting your abs module reflashed/reprogrammed.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
#13 ·
Forget all those thinking you have in mind.,
Your armada doesn't have any problem.,
All you need to do is go to your nearest nissan service center and ask to upgrade your computer software.,
All of those will be fixed forever.,
You just need to pay for an hour service.
Before I bought my armada my friend who is working in the nissan service center tol me about this issue.,
So even thou I still don't encounter it I already have plan to bring it with him and upgrade the computer software.,
But one day I start up my armada those lights comes up.
So, I don't waste time, I immediately bring to upgrade and results are true.,
It's perfect 'till present.
 
#15 ·
Update!! 9/22/12

Today I installed the two brake pressure sensors on the master cylinder, replaced the front brake pads, and changed the brake fluid. The brake pads were easy to do (descriptions on how to change them can be found on this fourm). The two pressure sensors are screwed into the bottom of the master cylinder and are not on very tight. A 27mm wrench is all you need to break them loose after unplugging the connector. You will lose some fluid from the master cylinder, so be sure you are ready to put the new one in as soon as you take the old one out. No bleeding was required.

The part number for the sensors is 47240-7S000. Two sensors come in the box. I paid $156 after tax. I asked the parts counter person if he sells a lot of these sensors. He says he always has them in stock as many repair shops order them, but I was the first to buy them over the counter.

I scanned the ABS computer for codes after the repair and found none. Road testing the vehicle did not show any issues. I am hoping that this repair fixes the problem and restores my confidence in the vehicle (I was about to go shopping for a replacement vehicle yesterday).

Attached are some pictures from the repair. The scan tool picture is from the last time the lights came on. The picture with the parts box shows the old sensors (brass colored). The other pictures are of the installed new sensors (silver).

Here's hoping for the best.

Toy Hauler
 

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#16 ·
Today I installed the two brake pressure sensors on the master cylinder, replaced the front brake pads, and changed the brake fluid. The brake pads were easy to do (descriptions on how to change them can be found on this fourm). The two pressure sensors are screwed into the bottom of the master cylinder and are not on very tight. A 27mm wrench is all you need to break them loose after unplugging the connector. You will lose some fluid from the master cylinder, so be sure you are ready to put the new one in as soon as you take the old one out. No bleeding was required.

The part number for the sensors is 47240-7S000. Two sensors come in the box. I paid $156 after tax. I asked the parts counter person if he sells a lot of these sensors. He says he always has them in stock as many repair shops order them, but I was the first to buy them over the counter.

I scanned the ABS computer for codes after the repair and found none. Road testing the vehicle did not show any issues. I am hoping that this repair fixes the problem and restores my confidence in the vehicle (I was about to go shopping for a replacement vehicle yesterday).

Attached are some pictures from the repair. The scan tool picture is from the last time the lights came on. The picture with the parts box shows the old sensors (brass colored). The other pictures are of the installed new sensors (silver).

Here's hoping for the best.

Toy Hauler
thanks for the post with pictures! sounds like it is a fairly simple install... I may want to do this guest to be on safe side... nothing wrong worth installing newer parts yeah? :)

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using AutoGuide.Com Free App
 
#18 ·
I know this is an old thread, but this advice may help someone out there.

Before replacing any parts, I'd double check the connections on the sensors on the bottom of the master cylinder. Just disconnect, inspect/clean if needed, and reconnect them firmly. Make sure they are fully seated.

I had a VDC/Slip light issue and no brake light on, took vehicle to Nissan dealership, and was told ABS module needed replaced (around $1,800). I told them no thanks and investigated myself. Checked all wiring connections and then took the vehicle to a local alignment shop. They did the alignment ($70 for 4-wheel alignment) and stated that they "reset the steering angle sensor as a basic step when performing an alignment on a newer Nissan vehicle."

VDC/Slip lights went away after this. I will never take my vehicle back to this specific Nissan dealership again after they misdiagnosed over $3,000 in repairs that were not needed in two separate visits.

Again, hope that helps someone out there who may be pulling their hair out of trying to figure out where to get the money to "fix" the problem with their Armada!
 
#19 ·
Sixty8 Thanks for the tips, good advise.
 
#20 ·
I had this issue, along with the 4x4 light, a few weeks ago. I have had the really bad brake issue now and then with my 2004 Armada...the one where the brake light comes on and any press of the brakes kicks in the ABS...where you have to pull over, shut it off and then restart to make it go away. In any case, with this current issue (VCD, SLIP, ABS and 4x4 lights on) I never noticed any reduction in brake power or noticeable problem except for the lights. I'd say I drove it for maybe 2 months with these lights on before I finally made it to a Nissan dealer. The dealer told me the front left ABS sensor was not reporting correctly and that the only way to fix that was to replace the entire hub assembly. Cost $609 (P&L). Sadly my total bill was much more as they also did a full brake fluid flush and they found a leaking front driveshaft seal. OTD just under $1300. I did it because I love the truck but I know there is a brake/abs issue which Nissan refuses to acknowledge. I wonder how many people will have to get hurt or killed before they are forced to resolve the issues...
 
#21 ·
I'm sick of this. Been chasing a VDC, SLIP ABS, 4WD light issue for 2 years. Am sitting in the dealership and am told there is a intermittent short in the wire from left rear speed sensor to ABS control unit. Speed sensor checks out, so the continuity issue is in the harness somewhere. The tech didn't look too excited when I asked him to find the short. After 1.5 hours nothing. So I told them, to put it back together and I'll find it.

Question, can I just cut and splice a new wire so I don't have to find the break? Also, need a wiring diagram for an 06 Armada LE. Shitty thing is the truck runs awesome.

Any help or insight would be great. I've replaced both front and rear bearings and speed sensors, both brake fluid pressure sensors and the ABS ECU (at their cost).
 
#22 ·
Delta sensor (brake booster) replaced? I know this is going to sound dumb, but how is the brake fluid level? Try checking to see if there's a leak... even a small one. I got some of those lights when my right rear flex brake fluid hose got a hole rubbed through one side.
Good luck in tracking down the cause and curing.
 
#23 ·
sensors didnt work on mine

2011 armada: code c1142
when i received it, they had replaced the pressure sensors on the master cylinder but looks like that didnt fix the problem. i did notice that the light doesn't come on when its cold though. im thinking possible ABS ECU on mine, looking for a way to check resistance on it before swapping it out. On mine, when it heats up, the pressure sensor 2 doesn't mark positive value on my scanner. will try and post when i find solution. Also would like info on that updated software for the ecm
 
#24 ·
Had same problems, same symptoms, same cover up misdiagnosis by Nissan to prevent them from being held accountable for repairing a very poorly dsigned electrical system.
Ultimately, to fix the problem, I installed a full grounding kit with SOLDERED connections. (Learned here on clubarmada) Crimped on cheapo short cut components are what causes the electrical problems.
Removed the doughnut voltage sensor from the battery ground wire. Replaced the 10 cent cheapo alloy battery clamps with solid (not hollow) lead ones.
The vdc/antislip/abs/4wd system is super voltage sensitive. If system voltage drops below about 11.7, you will have problems. Cold contracts the cheapo alloy factory battery clamps forcing good contact. Armada computer system is misprogrammed (no fix) to register full charge as 12.1 volts. Voltage drop from battery to electrical system component, or ipdm is 1 volt before you even start the car. So you need a minimum of 12.7 volts at the battery to get 11.7 at the vdc computer section. But the nissan computer says 12.1 at the battery is a full charge and shifts the alternator to maintenance charge voltage instead of recharge voltage which is required for the system to meet minimum required voltage levels.
With the grounding kit, it reduces system voltage leaks and generates cleaner electric system sensor reads. Next, add a ground wire into the grounding kit that goes from the alternator ground lead (soldered connector) to the ground kit (soldered in).
The factory alternator ground runs to the ipdm which is not a true ground and works for crap. Thie new improved ground wire, with the removal of the voltage sensor doughnut on the negative battery wire takes nissan out of the charging system. Then, the alternator doesn't get lied to and it sends correct necessary charging voltage to the battery. If you get an AGM battery, whose base reference voltage is 13.2 volts, the alternator will keep it charged to 13.2 volts and the electrical system will always have a minimum of 12.2 volts after the misprogrammed computer involvement, with normal charging voltage, depending on load applied, of 13.4-14.2 volts, and your system will work like it's supposed to.

Further voltage fubars and nissan snafus will be if you are driving along at highway speeds and the vdc engages by itself and slams on the breaks at one corner or another for no reason. If you retain control of the vehicle (always drive with two hands on the wheel until above listed fixes are installed) it will only take two or three brake vdc slams to wear the front bearing packs out of spec. Note: it usually takes 5-7 visits to nissan until you figure out that's not the place to go to get maldesigned systems fixed. And nissan 3rd hand factory subcontracted dealership maintenance facilities will bilk you for every dollar they can because they are not repair facilities, they are simply parts swapping facilities.
After doing the electrical system repairs listed above, I have now had the same battery going on 4 years, it's resting voltage is still 13.2, and ALL other gremlin lights have stopped.
 
#25 ·
F4N4EVR, I've read several of your posts concerning the doughnut sensor on the negative cable. I have a few questions for you on this. First when you say you removed it, does that mean you took it off completely? If so what did you do with the 3 wires that are plugged into it? Is this better then your other fix using aluminum to shield the sensor? And last, did the soldered grounding kit come pre made or did you build it yourself? Thanks
 
#27 ·
It's not a voltage sensor. It's a current sensor. Removing it removes the car's ability to detect that the battery is being discharged when it isn't supposed to be. This device does not cause any electrical issues, and removing it does nothing to improve electrical quality. In fact, since it is a ferrite coil, its presence reduces high frequency noise since it acts like a ferrite bead.

Removing it is.... not advisable.
 
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#26 ·
c1142 error

Got this code unfortunately on a road trip with all these lights coming on, however the vehicles function did not change I did not have any issues driving the car with the lights on, got a diagnosis asap with this code. If you read Toy Haulers posts on here he is spot on, all it needed was the brake master cylinder sensors got for 115 online can be found easily and it could not be easier to replace yourself. Don't let this issue deter you from the armada or titan, though annoying relatively cheap easy fix if needed. Mine was 04 armada with 60k on it.
 
#29 ·
By removing the current limiting device, you're risking blowing up your shiny new alternator, because your fancy new AGM battery will accept well in excess of 270 amps to charge. I imagine that the first time you run it down by accident and have to jump start, your nice new 270 amp alternator is going to be reduced to a pile of smoldering ashes from being essentially short circuited.

You are right though that there are no Nissan-owned dealerships in the US. Just like there are no Honda-owned dealerships, or Toyota-owned dealerships, or Ford-owned dealerships. This is because, in almost every state in the Union, it is illegal for an auto manufacturer to sell a car to a retail customer. Tesla has been fighting this for years unsuccessfully.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Especially with today's electrically-commutated alternators. OEM alternators are designed with lower current limits in the exciter armature so they will produce less heat and last longer. Aftermarket high-amperage alternators basically are just OEM alternators designed with these limits removed, so the AVR will pump large amounts of current into the exciter field.

Sure, they produce more current, but they produce extra heat. The "270 amp" alternator can certainly produce 270 amps, but not for very long before the rectifier diodes exceed their junction temperature and fail. A typical schottky rectifier will have a forward voltage drop of about 0.5V at rated current. So, at 270 amps rms, each one is dissipating 67.5 watts (and there are four of them). That's a lot of energy do dissipate in a small package under the hood. I doubt they would last more than about 30-60 seconds pushing that current continuously into a dead AGM battery, and that's if whomever slapped together the aftermarket Brawndo(TM) Alternator knew what they were doing.

Then, there's the wire. Just think about this logically for a second. An alternator is typically wound with #14 or maybe #12 wire. How long do you think you can push 270 amps through a #14 wire before it burns off the insulating varnish? Not long.

There is precisely nothing wrong with limiting battery charge current to 30A, and doing so does not affect other vehicle electrical systems in any way. It's also the safe thing to do.

I'll also add that most AGM battery manufacturers recommend a 0.25C initial charge rate. A group 34 Optima Red Top has a C20 capacity of 50Ah, which means it should be charged at no greater than 12.5 amps for maximum battery life. If you dump 270 amps into it (which it will happily take, at least for a short time) who knows what will happen?
 
#32 ·
The Hitachi oem alternators were the subject of a court battle. Nissan lost, but instead of replacing them with Mitsubishi alternators, they shipped them to Mexico and rebranded them. Go to any professional alternator shop and ask them to rebuild the oem Hitachi alternator. They won't! The oem alternator has a max steady state rating of 65 amps. (130 amp surge capability). My Armada requires 65 amps without AC or headlights turned on. If you research how much amperage the individual components in the charging system can pass, it's down around 30 amps. If you consider the rate of degradation of crimped bimetal system components and connections, the benefits of soldered connections, and large gauge wires will be obvious. The Mechman 270 amp alternator has a constant steady state rating of 135 amps. So at 65 amps, it is running much cooler than the oem alternator and wiring. It will last much longer than the oem alternator, and provides a much more stable current to the system.
 
#33 ·
I know there have been a few threads already posted regarding this problem but I thought it may be useful to post my findings on the topic separately.

My '06 turned on the SLIP, VDC OFF, and BRAKE warning lights on Friday after simply starting the vehicle. The brake pads and fluid level are all OK and the parking brake works properly as well.

I scanned the vehicle using a Snap-On Solus Pro and received a C1142 (Brake Pressure Sensor Malfunction) from the ABS ECU. I was able to retrieve the Nissan diagnostic procedure and wiring diagram for this code. The trouble code does not differentiate between the front and rear pressure sensors, both located on the bottom of the master cylinder. As per the diagnostic procedure I checked the continuity of the harness between the sensor connector and the ABS ECU. All 6 wires read 0.3 ohms (good). I checked for source voltage on pin 3 of each sensor connector and read 5.0v (good). The ground wire, pin 1 of each sensor connector, had continuity (10 ohms) to body ground. Finally, I back probed each signal wire from the sensor connector, pin 2, and read voltage between 0 and 5 volts (it varies depending on how hard you press the brake pedal).

Finally I retrieved the data list from the ABS ECU so that I could read the pressure on the scan tool. Both sensors were reading identical pressures when the pedal was applied (~700psi with the engine off). Nissan simply says you should see a positive reading when applied and 0 when not. This checks out with my readings.

All of these findings, according to Nissan, validates that the sensors are good and the wiring between the sensors and the ABS ECU is OK. It also points to a possible problem with the ABS ECU.

However, a quick call to a friend at a local Nissan dealer (20 year Nissan tech) revealed that the sensors are bad. He said my diagnostic procedure and findings were correct. In his experience with Titans and Armadas the sensors are the root cause of the problem and replacing both sensors fixes it for good. He said there is no good rationale for it as the readings are all correct. The information regarding the range of the sensor is not listed in Nissan's service literature. The sensors may be giving a reading but that does not mean they are valid as far as the ABS ECU is concerned.

The part # for the sensors is 47240-7S000 and is available separate from the master cylinder. They are simple to replace and can be bled locally (at the sensor) without bleeding the entire system. They cost about $170.

Hope this helps.

P.S. Unrelated to C1142 but good to know: The booster sensors go bad too and you have to replace the entire booster.

ToyHauler
How did you know which one to replace? I have the same lights on and the same code.
 
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