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Fitting Bilstein 5100s Rear Shocks

72K views 99 replies 37 participants last post by  Guesswhatchickenbutt 
#1 ·
Ok, there are 2 different models of Bilsteins 5100s that could fit our rear (for those like me who don't have auto-leveling rear):
_ Bilstein 5125 (Part # BE5-6251-H5)
_ Bilstein 5150 (Part # BF5-A194-H1)

Both have collapsed and extended lengths that fit non lifted as well as lifted Madas. Actually they will fit lifted ones (2'') better than factory shocks by giving more suspension travel as their extended length is approximately 1'' longer and this is the limiting factor for suspension travel. I have ordered and received the 5150 (with fixed crossflow reservoir) and quickly tried to fit it yesterday. As expected, it's not a direct fit.

Those shocks come with eye mounts at both ends. The bushings on these eye mounts have an internal diameter of 5/8 (16mm) while our stock bolts are 9/16 (14mm) so the bolts need to be replaced and holes drilled bigger. While the nut on the lower arm moves and thus can be replaced with a bigger one, the upper arm has a thread directly on the bracket instead of a nut. If I drill through this thread, I have enough room to add a nut outside the bracket. I could as well cut this threaded part and weld a bigger nut in its place.

ths width of the bushings is about 1.5'' (38mm) while the factory shocks' bushings are about 1.9'' (48mm) so I'll have to use 5mm thick washers on both sides.

Last issue which is specific to the 5150 due to its crossflow reservoir is that the brackets for the brake lines need to be relocated to give room for the reservoirs. Once this is done, I'll know for sure if the shock mount bracket also needs a bit of grinding but I don't think so.

Any fitting suggestions/advices are welcome. I have a few hints that I am going to pursue and will let you know.

Paul
 
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#2 ·
Man i can't wait for you to be finish with them that way i can do it to
 
#4 ·
Yesterday, I had another opportunity to lift the car and remove a wheel and shock to test fit again my Bilsteins.
The good news is that I probably don't need to relocate the brake lines as the crossflow reservoir seems to fit fine when body is down (instructions say they can be mounted either way). I did not test full travel though but it looked like there was really enough room.
I bought the 5/8" bolts and nuts that are going to replace the factory 9/16" ones. I also bought enough washers so now I got all the stuff I need to do the install.
Just need to find the time to do the job, hopefully within a week.

Paul
 
#5 ·
Anymore updates man? I'm interested. Dumb question but did you replace the coil with the bilstein or the factory airshock?
 
#6 ·
Not yet man.

Which coils are you talking about? The front coilover shocks? I have the ride adjustable Bilstein 5100 installed there.
 
#7 ·
Well for the air ride suspension there is the air shock and then a coil spring what does the rear bilstein replace?
 
#8 ·
The Bilstein would replace the air shock in your case so you would loose the auto leveling feature.
 
#9 ·
I started working on the install yesterday night. I hope I can finish it tonight.

I could knock off with a hammer and chisel both upper nuts (circled in red in attached pic). For the lower nut, the little piece of steel welded to hold it must be removed with gas. A guy helped me on that, he removed one side yesterday.

Left to do:
_ Remove the lower nut on the other side
_ Drill all holes with a 5/8 drill bit
_ Spray some paint everywhere to avoid rust
_ Grease the bushings and mount the shocks
_ Check that at full droop coil spring is not loose (e.g. extended length is not too much)
_ Remove a coil spring and try to run travel all the way up to check that there is no contact and that I reach the bump stop before the shock bottoms out (e.g. collapsed length is short enough, shouldn't be a problem as Bilstein collapsed is shorter than stock collapsed)
_ Put everything back
 

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#11 ·
I'm almost there. It took me more than expected to drill as I had trouble finding a 5/8" drill bit reduced to 1/2" to fit in a regular driller. On top of that, because of the fuel pipe on the driver side, I needed an angle driller for one of the holes.

Anyway, I'm now done drilling and painting and I have also removed a coil spring and tested full travel. There is no reservoir contact at all, not even close. As expected, at full collapse, I reached the bump stop way before bottoming out the shock. As the shock's extended length is 1" longer than the factory shock, at shock's full extension the coil spring extends more and gives an extended overall travel. With leverage maybe 2" more than stock. That also means that these shocks are ok for a 2" lifted truck but might not be for a plain stock suspension. I still think it should be ok but, as a disclaimer, I don't want people to think it's ok for their application and then end up having to put a spacer to keep their coil spring from reaching its maximum. I'm sorry, I could remove the spacer and try it but I really want to get done with my install as I can only work on it a couple of hours after work.

Left to do:
_ Bolt on the shocks (the tricky part is inserting the washers)
_ Put everything back in place
_ Enjoy it on and off road

Paul
 

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#13 ·
Thanks man.

That's it, I'm done!

Will be driving some miles on and off road in the next couple of days and see how it feels.

Paul
 
#14 ·
very nice work. Thanks for keeping us updated on the fitting. I'm looking forward to seeing your opinion on the ride. As I'm sure you know valving is very important in ride quality on and off road. It will be interesting to see if these generically valved shocks work well on our Armadas.

Bill
 
#15 ·
I too am interested in the ride charasteristics given these have fixed crossflow valving.
 
#16 ·
I have been riding those Bilstein 5150s for more than 2k miles and they ride great. I don't feel as much a difference as with the front ones as I don't sit in the rear :D. Yet, it is very noticeable, specially off-road where it used to be swingy.

Paul
 
#33 ·
A year and a half and 25k miles later, I'm replacing my Bilsteins 5150. They were riding great at the beginning but I have treated them pretty bad doing some heavy duty off roading and now they're gone. I think the valving is not appropriate for the kind of treatment I inflicted on them.

Now I've bought a pair of 5125s (Part# BE5-6251-H8) to replace them. I'll be looking at adding a second pair of shocks later on if that's not too hard to do.

My front Bilsteins on the other hand are still handling great.
 
#17 ·
I hope my Bilsteins come in next Week! been on backorder for a long time. About the rear shocks. Would the Firestone Coil Rite Air Bags be the best for ride quality? I do not have a lift, but would not care if it raised my Armada up some.
 
#20 · (Edited)
They replace your coils. I've been chatting with Yuri Pham in their office because I think I might one day pipe these into the OEM system to replace the air shocks. I was curious about using them with the PRG rear spacers but they said these brackets get welded to the coil buckets. They do customize the brackets for whatever height we want but it does cost more. They gave me some info that I need to post but I haven't taken time to post it yet.

I don't like the idea of paying for every little change, I'm not made of gold, so I've kinda blown the whole thing off for now. I think it's a great option for someone who doesn't have a lift kit on though.
 
#21 ·
Thanks Pops! do i need to replace the OEM shocks as well? If so with what?
 
#23 ·
I'm just waiting for the front shocks to come in and just started to work on the rear. Thank you! Your help sure makes it easy for me!
 
#26 ·
My 04 has the auto leveling rear; would this kit from airbagit improve the ride by replacing the rear coils? I don't generally tow anything, really just a Thule 4-bike rack on the hitch throughout the year, and a pair of trailered jet skis when I visit my relatives down in Ocean City, MD during the summer.
 
#34 ·
Hey guys, I'm reviving this thread to help out the lowered guys out there, I'm 2" drop in front and 3" drop in rear... I have the auto leveling but I don't mind loosing it for a better ride quality.

Polz, does the 5125 have and adjustable setting to lower the collapsed/ extended lengths? Since stock collapsed is 12" & extended is 18" based on your post, I'm assuming a proper ride height with a 3" lowering spring would me 9" & 15"? in that case maybe those airwave shocks ezemaxima posted would work? -- I'd much rather get Bilstiens due to reliability. I've got the 5100's on the front but I feel they are way too long for the 2" drop in the front. Any suggestions which shocks would fit this ride height? I'm fairly mechanically inclined and feel like I could take on a similar retrofitting task like you did.
 
#35 ·
2008 Armada LE 4x4 rides funny

I just recently bought a 2008 Armada LE 4x4 and was a little surprised on the several hundred mile drive home from the dealership. Other Armadas I have test driven ride really well. This one seems to have a funny bounce to it. Being an LE, it does have the auto level rear suspension and the 20" wheels. I have replaced the factory front shocks/struts with the Bilstien HD's as suggested by the other forum members. That did not seem to change the funny ride.

It seems to have a diagonal bounce to it after large bumps. In other words, from driver rear to passenger front. The bounce lasts several oscillations and then then all is normal. It isn't usually a big deal, but in the high winds of Kansas and in traffic, it can be a little interesting driving inside my lane in some really bad spots. Small bumps and most highways, this thing rides really well.

Should I look into replacing the air shocks? Do I have a bad spring? A bad anti-sway bar? Any ideas? I am fairly mechanical, so I don't mind tearing into my Armada if I have a solution that will solve my problem. I don't really feel like taking it to a Nissan dealer to diagnose and hand over a lot of money to.

Thanks for any help you all can give me!!!
 
#37 ·
I also have a horrendous shake in the rear. I have to go get my tires balanced every two weeks so that they are perfect. I can't stand it anymore. So I called the dealership for a price on the rear auto leveling shocks. Yep, $243 each!!! So NOT cool.

04 Armada LE

ANY options for rear shocks keeping the rear auto leveling?

Next, many have said that they "prefer" removing the auto leveling, or "not a fan" of auto leveling. Why? When towing do still get the sagging rear? Can you set it up so you don't get the sag?

Any help from the Armada experts would be appreciated.
 
#39 ·
you should check out the Armada Rear Spring thread. lots of info in there and it'll answer some if not all your questions.

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