HOW TO: Install a Grounding Kit - Nissan Armada Forum: Armada & Infiniti QX56 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 05:42 PM Thread Starter
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HOW TO: Install a Grounding Kit

Installing a Grounding Kit for Nissan Titan/Armada

Materials Checklist:
(5) ground wires – 4-24” and 1-12" (for 4WD only)
(3) zip ties
(2) ½”-20 nuts
(1) ½” lock washer
(1) ½”x1” bolt

Tools Checklist:
10mm socket
12mm socket
7/16” socket
7/16" open wrench

1. Install the first 24” wire on the negative battery terminal using one of the ½” nuts. You will need to tighten the nut down with the 7/16” socket.


2. You will attach the other end of this cable under the passenger side of the wiper cowl. In order to do this pull up on the outer edge of the cowl and then remove the 10mm bolt. Place the terminal between the metal of the frame pieces and tighten the bolt back into place. It is recommended, but not required, to sand the paint from this area and apply some dielectric grease. This will help ensure a better metal to metal connection and keep the unpainted area from rusting.


3. Next take one of the zip ties and secure the cable to the frame using the existing hole.


4. To install the second 24” cable, remove the 12mm bolt on the driver side fender wall directly behind the airbox inlet.


5. The other end of this wire will attach to the bracket on the driver side of the engine just behind and below the intake tube. You will need a 10mm socket for this bolt.


6. Zip tie the cable to the bundle of cables located behind the air filter housing.


7. The third wire to be installed is the 24” wire. Attach it using the bolt, washer, and remaining nut to the inner lip of the battery tray just behind the factory ground.
It may be easier to put the bolt through from the bottom, then put the ring terminal, washer, and nut on from the top.
You will need a 7/16” socket and 7/16” wrench. It is recommended, but not required, to sand the paint from this area and appy some dielectric grease. This will help ensure a better metal to metal connection and keep the unpainted area from rusting.


8. Run the cable down so that you can reach it from under the truck to attach to the alternator.

The remaining steps will be done UNDER the truck.
9. Locate the factory ground connection on the alternator and remove the 10mm bolt. Attach the other end of the cable you secured to the battery tray.


10. Now slide under the middle of the truck and remove the 10mm bolt from the bracket on the driver side of the transmission and attach the last 24” wire.


11. The final attachment point is the factory ground location for the exhaust. Remove the 10mm bolt and attach the other end of the final grounding strap.


12. It is also recommended to drill a hole large enough for the last zip tie to pass through into the heat shield on the driver side to secure the cable with so it doesn’t swing loose.


An alternate zip tie location for 4WD trucks is above the transfer case. There is already a bracket with a hole in it, this would allow you to avoid drilling in the heat shield.


FOR 4WD ONLY
13. Attach one end of the 12" cable to the exhaust ground. This is the same location as in step 11 with the 10mm bolt.


14. The other end of the 12" cable will attach to the back side of the transfer case. This is also a 12mm bolt.


That's it, you have successfully installed a grounding kit.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 06:37 PM
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Nice write up! But what do you need to ground that isn't all ready grounded? Or what did you install that needed a ground?

2006 SE OFFROAD: All rows DVD headrests, K&N 57 CAI, full face brush guard, IPCW(carid)black halo LED projector headlights,10000k low beam HID, 10000k HID fog, glass halo projector fog lights, Altezza black tail lights, top/lower(not bolt over)black billet grille, flowmaster 50 series exhaust, R1 drilled slotted rottors, bilstein 5100's front shocks, bully dog GT 93 octane tune w/*2 timing, plasti dip oem wheels
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Nothing actually. It's to supplement the stock grounds which are adequate but could be better. Some people say they see benefits others say it's placebo. I actually saw benefits from installing a kit.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 07:54 PM
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O gotcha, you just replaced what was already there with better cables nice! If I ever run into issues I got a nice write up to follow. Now I know where all the ground points are I was actually wondering this the other day when I was installing my ground relay for my hid kit thanks buddy. How much did all the cable run you and what brand did you purchase?

2006 SE OFFROAD: All rows DVD headrests, K&N 57 CAI, full face brush guard, IPCW(carid)black halo LED projector headlights,10000k low beam HID, 10000k HID fog, glass halo projector fog lights, Altezza black tail lights, top/lower(not bolt over)black billet grille, flowmaster 50 series exhaust, R1 drilled slotted rottors, bilstein 5100's front shocks, bully dog GT 93 octane tune w/*2 timing, plasti dip oem wheels
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't actually replace any cables and I sent you a PM about the cables.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 09:35 PM
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Welcome goodolsen!



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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-15-2012, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks...I actually frequent Titantalk and posted this over there originally. But since the install is exactly the same I figured the Armada guys could benefit as well.

And I know a great place to find kits.

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:39 PM
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Thanks for da write up. Does it matter what type of wire im using. 0 gauge or 4 gauge?
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-17-2012, 02:41 PM Thread Starter
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I've used 4 gauge for my kits. You won't see any benefit from using 0 gauge over 4 gauge.

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