Power Steering Hose Replacement - Nissan Armada Forum: Armada & Infiniti QX56 Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-30-2014, 01:46 AM Thread Starter
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Power Steering Hose Replacement

As many of you know, a leaking power steering pressure hose is a common problem on our vehicles. A few weeks ago I had that problem. Not a big leak, just enough to make a mess.
The Nissan dealers charge a lot to replace this hose. I bought a new one for about $60.00. The new hose assembly had both the rubber hose section and the steel line attached at the bottom end. It came with the two copper gaskets and O rings for the pressure sensor and lower steel line.

The first photo shows the hose, where it attaches to the pump and the pressure sensor. Remove the connector from the sensor first.
Note that the bolt holding the hose to the pump is very close to the fender liner; there isn't enough room to place a socket on it.

Photo 2 shows how I solved this problem. Use a sharp pointed object (I used a ice pick) to punch a hole in the liner centered on the bolt head.

Photo 3 - From under the fenderwell use a 2" hole saw to cut a hole in the plastic liner, placing a 1X4 or similar item behind the fender liner to protect the hose and pump.

Photo 4 - Use a 24 mm or 15/16 socket to remove the bolt. When replacing the bolt be sure to use the two new copper gaskets, torque the bolt to 44 ft lbs.

Photo 5 - With the vehicle on stands or ramps start to work underneath. NEVER WORK UNDER A CAR ON JUST A JACK!
I removed the stabilizer bar brackets to allow the bar to rotate down out of the way in order to get to the bolts holding the hose brackets and connection.

Continued on next post.
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2004 Armada SE, Throttle body coolant bypass, Grounding kit, modified Volant CAI with Amsoil dry element, custom engine cover, trailer brake controller, Michelin M/S2s, custom lower grill, Silver Star headlights, Bilstein HD shocks, Power Stop Drilled/Slotted Rotors, ceramic pads, Goodridge SS brake lines, interior and back-up LEDs, PLM transmission pan, trans radiator cooler by-passed, all Amsoil synthetic lubricants, Nismo headers, custom 3" SS exhaust system with high flow metallic core cats, UpRev tuner version, 318 rear wheel HP.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-30-2014, 02:01 AM Thread Starter
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Photo 6 - The bolts holding the hose bracket at the bottom are hard to reach. I used a 1/4" rachet with a 10 mm socket. You can't see the bolts, you have to do it by feel.

Photo 7 - With the bracket removed disconnect the hose from the steel tubing. It is best to use a tubing wrench on the compression nut. You will have a small amount of fluid run from the line.
Remove the pressure sensor from the old hose, and install it on the new one, using the new O ring. Install the new hose, torquing the bolt to 44 ft lbs.

Photo 8 - The new hose is installed, all brackets and bolts back in place.

Replace the stabilizer mounts, and you are finished underneath.

Fill the pump, start the engine and check for leaks. Top off the fluid if necessary.

You can plug the hole in the fender liner if you want. I used a snap in plug designed for an electrical junction box.
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2004 Armada SE, Throttle body coolant bypass, Grounding kit, modified Volant CAI with Amsoil dry element, custom engine cover, trailer brake controller, Michelin M/S2s, custom lower grill, Silver Star headlights, Bilstein HD shocks, Power Stop Drilled/Slotted Rotors, ceramic pads, Goodridge SS brake lines, interior and back-up LEDs, PLM transmission pan, trans radiator cooler by-passed, all Amsoil synthetic lubricants, Nismo headers, custom 3" SS exhaust system with high flow metallic core cats, UpRev tuner version, 318 rear wheel HP.

Last edited by scr38; 06-30-2014 at 11:23 PM.
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-30-2014, 06:24 PM
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nice write up scr38, i have purchased my new hose and await the cooler weather to do this job, its just too hot in this Houston summer to get anything done(for a Scotsman anyway).

2007 Armada SE, Volant CAI, 2 Degree advance, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Coil Rite's, Spyder headlights with HID's, Interior LED's
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2014, 04:41 PM
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My line is a little wet at the top but no drip. Not at the mess stage yet but thinking about replacing as well. Where did you get the line? I have not priced the OEM.

2005 SE Off Road: JBA LT Silver ceramic coated headers, Cajun B-Pipes with Heavy Metal Cats, Borla Dual SS Cat Back, Uprev Tuned, K&N Air Charger, CSF 3328 Aluminum Radiator, Grille Craft Upper and Lower Grill, Burtman Rear Air Reflector, Manik SS Nerf Bars, Nissan Tow Mirrors, Bilstein HD's, Moog 81085 Rear Coils, AirLift 1000 Rear Springs.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-01-2014, 05:20 PM
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I got my hose from Amazon, see link below. $45 plus free shipping.





2007 Armada SE, Volant CAI, 2 Degree advance, Bilstein 5100 shocks, Coil Rite's, Spyder headlights with HID's, Interior LED's
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-02-2014, 09:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davemelvin View Post
I got my hose from Amazon, see link below. $45 plus free shipping.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you for the link

2005 SE Off Road: JBA LT Silver ceramic coated headers, Cajun B-Pipes with Heavy Metal Cats, Borla Dual SS Cat Back, Uprev Tuned, K&N Air Charger, CSF 3328 Aluminum Radiator, Grille Craft Upper and Lower Grill, Burtman Rear Air Reflector, Manik SS Nerf Bars, Nissan Tow Mirrors, Bilstein HD's, Moog 81085 Rear Coils, AirLift 1000 Rear Springs.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-06-2015, 11:24 PM
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thanks for the guide! i followed this today on both of my 2004 Infiniti QX56s. we were unable to get the hose apart at the middle but found that the metal rod that goes up and under some was easy enough to get out so we replaced the entire hose. i do have a couple of questions for anyone that has done this.

1) is there any kind of bleeding or anything that needs done after? both of my cars are making a not so good noise when turning the wheels and turning is hard and stutters. the power steering fluid is also very bubbly. i assume there is just air working itself out of the lines since it was almost completely drained. if thats the case how long should it take to get back to normal?

2) on my car only i'm having a loud pop from what sounds like my front driver side tire when i turn 90 degree corners. it seems that if i make a left turn and continue to make left turns it will be fine after the first pop, but as soon as i turn right it will pop again and then be fine on right turns until i turn left again. anyone have a guess what that could be? my wifes car isn't doing it so not sure what i did on mine to cause that.

thanks!
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-07-2015, 01:57 PM
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Well I got #1 taken care of. I realized this morning that the level kept dropping so I kept adding more and running it through until it stopped dropping and then everything was fine! Still it sure on #2 though. Did a test drive this morning and it only popped once so I will have to keep an eye on it....
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-14-2016, 04:07 AM
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Great write up SCR38, I was able to change out my leaky power steering hose thanks to this great write. My friend who is a mechanic helped me and we had the luxury of using his lift. I am a new owner of a 2007 Armada SE non big tow and absolutely love it. I actually picked it up for my girlfriend so she drives it primarily. I get stuck driving my Wrangler (I like the Wrangles too). I did the brakes and rotors all around as well the (5) quart tranny change with the Nissan Matic S and well as the front and rear diffs with synthetic gear oil. Mobil1 in motor and new Cooper A/T's. I hope I'm good to go for a while. Thanks, Greg
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