How To: 2012 Armada - Long Tru Cool LPD Transmission Cooler (SR4588) Install - Nissan Armada Forum: Armada & Infiniti QX56 Forums
User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-19-2015, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
SHIFT_Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ATL
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
 
How To: 2012 Armada - Long Tru Cool LPD Transmission Cooler (SR4588) Install

I looked at this thread on Titan talk, but there were a few glaring omissions. Not to bad mouth anyone as it was super helpful, but there's a few Armada specific things (specifically the bumper).

I'm not sure what year the lower grille became fixed into the bumper, but the biggest snag (not that it's that hard to get past) was that for my Armada, the entire bumper had to come off so that you could put a pair of lower mounts for the cooler.

So, the first step looks something like this.




7 quarter turn clips on the upper grille, and then a bunch of phillips head clips and screws for the bumper itself. The only 2 "hard" ones are 4 phillips head / 10mm screws that you need to be able to move the splash shield out of the way to access:




The next glaring omission from that thread was where to mount the bottom of the cooler. The logical place appears to be the main bumper beam.

I went with a pair of RivNuts / Nutserts, as that seemed like the best / most secure option with a blind install on those (ie: you can't get to the back of the hole to install regular nuts).




After that, I fabbed a pair of brackets using the bars that Long Tru Cool includes in the kit. I have NO idea how you'd get a tool onto the backs of these to tighten nuts or bolts, so I took cheated and broke out the big guns, and welded on a pair of weld-nuts onto them. This way, the brackets can be bolted in place to the bumper bar, the cooler can be lowered in place, and then you just have to worry about tightening the bolts:




A test fit before painting the brackets, so that I could fab up the upper bracket.



Because there's not really any load on the upper bracket and it's mostly for positioning the cooler at this point, I decided to only do a solitary bracket there. Did another riv-nut in the plastic (!?) bar below the horns, and welded another nut to the back of the bracket for the cooler mount. There's a bit of steel in the way, but you can get a t-handle under that cross-bar to tighten up that bolt:




Installed. Note the hose that comes out near the passenger side of the cooler. There wasn't a ton of clearance between the hose and the cooler, so I wrapped it with a piece of 3/8" fuel hose I had sitting around as a buffer between the metal and rubber hose.




And back on the ground to check everything for leaks after filling it with fluid.



Presto! And now I don't have to worry about the radiator oil cooler taking a crap and f**king up my transmission. Win!


I'm glad I hit the brackets with a little black paint. You can't even tell anything not-stock is back there if you didn't know any better.






If you're interested in using rivnuts but are turned off by the cost of the installation tool, you can make your own with a piece of 1/8 or 3/16" flat stock, a Class 10.9 flange-head bolt and a drill. That's what I did to install a few of them on my racecar, and used it again to do this project, and it works great.

I have details on how to make your own HERE, or you can buy one here (no affiliation). But it's basically $10 for a piece of steel bar-stock and a bolt. That's a hell of a mark up...

For something like this, there's no reason to go any bigger than M6, so that's what I used. If you don't happen to have a box full of M6 hardware, here are a few helpful links:
Zinc-Plated Steel Cap Screw, M6x1mm, 16 mm long
Zinc-Plated Steel Rivet Nut, Open End, M6x1.0 Thread

NAPA Fuel Injection Hose Clamps for 5/8" OD / 3/8" ID hose.


Hopefully this'll help someone else.

Last edited by amaff; 01-02-2016 at 08:19 PM. Reason: Added info from subsequent posts
amaff is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-19-2015, 11:43 PM
SHIFT_Hardcore
 
mikeutah's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 542
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
 
I plan to do this at some point too, but I'm only at 15k miles so I have some time. Thanks for sharing.

2015 SV 4x4

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
- Plasti-dip - Tow Mirrors -
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
mikeutah is offline  
post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 03:42 AM
SHIFT_Hardcore
 
Peskadot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Ewa Beach, Hawaii
Posts: 256
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 38 Post(s)
 
Awesome post. Thanks for your step by step assist

2013 Platinum: 12" Bulletproof lift, Fox coilover w/resivior, 18" King Coils, DH-Customz rear suspention lift, Fox 2.0 w/resivor shocks, Raybestos HD Springs, 22x14 Fuels, 37x13.50R22 Toyo M/T, Royaltycore Grill, Burtmans wing, Xenon HIDS, Xenon LED Interior all, Spec-D LED tail lights, JDM reverse LED Bulbs, Wolo 80 Watt Four Bulb Strobes, 3 trumpet train horn, Four 12" Pioneer Champion Edition Subs, Pioneer door speakers all, Excelon 25th Anniversary Amps 2 channel & 4 channel, Volant CAI & TBS, Gibson Metal Mulisha Cat Back, AMP Steps, PRG Drive Shaft Spacer, PRG Leveling Kit


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Peskadot is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
SHIFT_Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ATL
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
 
No worries, it's a pretty straight forward install, just time consuming. Lots of test fit, tweak, test fit, tweak, weld, test fit, tweak, drill, test fit...

Also, I'm sure there's some detail I left out too, but the bumper and the lower mounting location were the biggest questions I had going in. I looked at a couple YouTube videos that showed how to remove the lower grill from a Titan / Armada. Then I go look at mine and find out that it's 100% molded in as part of the bumper, which is annoying.

The flip-side of that is that annoyance is that I finally had an excuse to install the HIDs I've had sitting on the shelf basically since we bought the truck. Having the bumper off left a couple of SUPER convenient places to mount the ballast and transformer (? I think? Electrons and I don't have a great relationship) securely.
amaff is offline  
post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
SHIFT_Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ATL
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
 
Oh, and if you're interested in using rivnuts but are turned off by the cost of the installation tool, you can make your own with a piece of 1/8 or 3/16" flat stock, a Class 10.9 flange-head bolt and a drill. That's what I did to install a few of them on my racecar, and used it again to do this project, and it works great.

I have details on how to make your own HERE, or you can buy one here (no affiliation). But it's basically $10 for a piece of steel bar-stock and a bolt. That's a hell of a mark up...

For something like this, there's no reason to go any bigger than M6, so that's what I used. If you don't happen to have a box full of M6 hardware, here are a few helpful links:
Zinc-Plated Steel Cap Screw, M6x1mm, 16 mm long
Zinc-Plated Steel Rivet Nut, Open End, M6x1.0 Thread

Last edited by amaff; 12-20-2015 at 10:03 AM.
amaff is offline  
post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 12:41 PM
SHIFT_Hardcore
 
nightowl's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 433
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 55 Post(s)
 
Nice write up for the Armada guys! This mod dropped my tranny temps 15* and I never see over 165* in Louisiana heat towing or not. Best of all is this mods isolates the transmission from the radiator that is prone to cracking and destroying that $4500 tranny. This is a good peace of mind with plastic radiators and heat...
nightowl is offline  
post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 12:45 PM
SHIFT_Hardcore
 
nightowl's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 433
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 55 Post(s)
 
I do highly recommend using new rubber transmission line and triple clamp those metal to rubber line connections
nightowl is offline  
post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
SHIFT_Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ATL
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
 
Got 'er put back together, like a 6,000 lb lego set




I'm glad I hit the brackets with a little black paint. You can't even tell anything not-stock is back there if you didn't know any better.

amaff is offline  
post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 12-21-2015, 08:27 PM
SHIFT_Hardcore
 
nightowl's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 433
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 55 Post(s)
 
Good deal! Nice not having to worry about that anymore isn't it?
nightowl is offline  
post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-02-2016, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
SHIFT_Enthusiast
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ATL
Posts: 162
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 33 Post(s)
 
Man isn't it. Boy does it stay cooler on the gauge. And not even by a little bit.

Point of note: I'm not super happy with the factory clamps I reused, or the worm clamps from the kit that went in where the factory bits were too far gone. I'd found a link in the Titan Talk thread for a part# from OReiley's Auto for EFI hose clamps, but it was a dead link and I couldn't find them. So, I bought a dozen (more than I need for this job) and I'm going to redo all the hose connections tomorrow.

If anyone's doing this soon, here's the info from NAPA to get the proper parts:

Hose Clamps, Fuel Injection; #16



Clamp Size Range : 9/16"-5/8"
Hose Size Range : 3/8"


These are SO much better than worm clamps.
amaff is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome