When I was looking for a write up on the process of replacing the front hubs aka bearing assembly I only found a crappy post on titantalk forum. I looked all over for torque specs and things before I got started. Im posting a better write up here for y'all hopefully it helps out.
So ok you wanna replace your front hubs cuz your bearings are whining/grinding/humming whatever.* I recommend not buy cheap parts. I bought Timken. Made in America. Legit parts. Cost me $300 for two. Make sure you order the right ones front and back are different.
Ok so block your rear tires. Set e brake. Jack up the front. I recommend lifting both tires off the ground so u can spin the steering wheel easily during the project. Ok put on sturdy jack stands. I slid the tire/wheel under the frame for extra peace of mind. Getting crushed to death isn't how I wanna go out.
So obviously once on stands remove tire. Then remove the brake caliper via 2 small bolts. Just set it up somewhere on the suspension and/or zip tie it up out the way. Dont let it hang from the brake line. If you haven't already go ahead and drench the bolts we need to remove in liquid wrench or pb blaster.* (3 on the back of the hub and 2 for the caliper bracket) The brake pads slide out, then undo the two big bolts on the caliper bracket to remove that. Then remove the brake rotor. Lightly hammer if necessary. So now you're here:
Go ahead and unclip the abs or wheel speed sensor whatever it is. People say its tough to unclip. Take your time and dont break it. Remove the cotter pin on the end of the axle, then remove the axle nut with your 32mm deep socket. (I heard its not recommended to use an impact on axle nuts) Then we can tackle the 3 hub bolts. the thread on titantalk talked about basically taking apart the entire suspension to get to these bolts. screw that. just turn the wheel as needed to reach each one. use a short socket and an extension with your pry bar. you can push the axle in a bit to help access the bolts. Also, take note of how the dust shield is positioned.
Once I loosened each one a bit I just used my impact to remove the rest. Now smack the back of the hub with your big hammer all around it to coax it off.*You want it to come out evenly.
Now you've just got to reassemble.* place the dust shield on as it was before. make sure when bolting the hub on you have the correct bolts. the caliper bracket bolts are similar but a different thread pitch. the bolts should hand tighten most of the way. wire wheel them for a better fit. put a bit of thread locker on each bolt. what I found for torque specs was 155ft/lb for the hub bolts. tighten them each down a little at a time so it pulls the hub on straight.* then finally use your torque wrench to final tighten.* then connect the speed censor wire clip. its good to do this after final torque in case something happens and you need to remove the hub again.
Ahhh new parts
Slide on the brake rotor. Put thread lock on the 2 caliper bracket bolts and screw them on. Torque these to 155ft/lb as well. Put the pads in. If you need to compress the pistons on the caliper use a brake pad and a wood clamp to push the pistons back in. Then put on the caliper and the 2 smaller caliper bolts are 32ft/lb. Put at least 3 lug nuts on to hold the rotor down. Have someone get in the vehicle and hold the brake down. Now put on the axle nut and torque to 137ft/lb. Put in the cotter pin and bend it back down. Then bolt on your wheel and you're good to go. Im writing this a few days after doing the job, but I think I covered it all.
Quick reference torque specs:
Hub bolts 155ft/lb
Caliper bracket bolts 155ft/lb
Caliper bolts 32ft/lb
Axle nut 137ft/lb
Hope this puts all the info you need in one convenient place. Enjoi, and be safe.