SIAP: How to Replace Steering Rack Bushings
I couldn't find one so thought this might help. I have wondered if the poor OE bushings contribute to the power steering hose leaks these are known for and rack failure, but I have no idea. I used Rhino Ramps to get the front end up.
First spray the big 3 nuts with penetrating oil, so it will be soaking, they are on there super tight.
While it soaks in loosen the front frame sway bar bushings. Now soak those nuts again.
I removed all three bolts at once, and then loosely replaced the bolt & nut on the passenger side, and then began the task of pulling out the two bushings on the driver's side. To loosen the 3 bolts, I used an impact and a wrench, but on the one closet the front driver's tire had to use a breaker bar & a cheater bar!
I'm sure Greg at PRG is a great guy (he's been nice to me), but he's a dirty liar when he writes on website just take a screwdriver and pop out the old bushings!
I had a combination of prying against the side close to the frame with a screwdriver & prying against the rack to keep it from moving. Once I got a little movement & gave up with Greg's screwdriver method, I locked some vise grips on what I could with the handle at a 4:00 position, and pushed the handle toward the front of the car. I would get maybe a 1/8 of an inch of movement before they'd slip off, and I repeated this method until they popped out.
Then I greased up the new bushings and slid in the bushing between the rack and frame. Then I greased up the metal sleeve and inserted it from the diff side pushed like hell with my fingertips to get it to pop in, also used a screwdriver to help pry it in, the combination finally worked. I then pushed the sleeve as far as I could, greased up the other half of the bushing and pushed & pried to get it started. I slid in the two bolts and once I had enough room for the washer plate and nuts to get started, I hand tightened them a little and went to the other side.
On the passenger side, there is one bolt at about 10:00 that's not easy to see, it's a 19mm. Get it out and take that clamp apart, pull off the old bushing & slide on the new with bump in round bushing lined up with the 19mm bolt.
I had some trouble starting that top 19mm bolt, finally I rotated the clamp to 6:00 so I could see that bolt and hole. A combination of fiddling with it and the planets aligning just right allowed it to start, I hand tightened it a few turns and rotated the clamp back to 10:00.
Then started the big bolt through the hole. Once I had it tightened it a little, I went back to the top bolt & tightened the hard to reach 19mm, a stubby ratchet would've been a big plus here!
Once tight, tighten up the big bolt. Now back to the driver's side tightened each bolt a little at a time allowing the combination of the frame and washer plate to press the bushings all the way in.
Then replace sway bar bolts, and you're finished.
This upgrade greatly tightened up my steering and as well greatly reducing that all over the road tendency when going over bumps and dips! Haven't heard a clunk in the front end since replacing these, fingers crossed this solved it. As new sway bar end links and bushings did not fix it.
Besides the 19mm, I used a 17mm on sway bar bolts, 24 mm on bolt heads & 22mm on nuts.
Last edited by Fayeilding; 05-17-2016 at 09:33 AM.