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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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Rear Differential Exploded. Need Help

Hey guys. I was in the Wal-Mart parking lot doing a U-Turn and BOOM! My rear end explodes. I went into town and I noticed 5 miles into my journey something was off. I'll refrain from going into detail about what was going on, unless other people are experiencing some issues, then I will explain what tell tell signs I have been experiencing and what I experienced right before it happened. I thought a few months ago, my transmission mounts were bad, but now it makes sense.

I had already jotted down some phone numbers for auto repair places, mind you this is a small town and I'm 80 miles from the nearest Nissan Dealership, which it just came out of for Lower Ball Joints, Stabilizer Bar End Links (I installed that one myself.) So I'm doing my own researching so if I find one, I'll buy it and have it shipped to them. They seem pretty flexible with however the whole differential is obtained. They don't seem to care about that. They actually seemed to care about me and how much this is going to cost me and trying to give me as many options as possible for me as to where the differential comes from. Trying to help me out when no other shop in town could or would work on it. I called 5 different places. This place was the last. It was either them or a $200 Tow Truck to the Nissan Dealership.

So anyway, I'm wondering what ratio does the Armada's come in? I have been searching and noticed only two ratios are out there. 3.357 and 2.937.

My Armada is a 2004 and has the Tow Package. I live and work 25 miles from the shop that said they will look for a used one with low mileage at Junk Yards and elsewhere. I texted Bob right after it happened and he immediately replied telling me I could get one from Courtesy Nissan for $1307. LOL Gotta love Pops. Do we have a VIN Decoder website available to tell us what gear ratio we have? Also, does anyone know if Nissan changed anything with the rear end in any year? As in, if I find the correct gear ratio for say... a 2010, would it bolt up correctly? To my knowledge, in 2008, only cosmetic and interior was changed.

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I GOT MORE SPEAKERS THAN YOU. 2004 Armada SE 4x4 Fully Loaded, Bilstein 5100's, 2" Rear Lift, Towing Package, Leather, Power Seats, Auto-Air, Rear Parking Sensors. Rockford 3Sixty.1 DSP, JVC KW-NT800HDT, FRONT: Focal Utopia Comps powered by Audiopipe AQX-360.4 Bridged @ 320wrms x 2, 2nd Row: Focal K2p Comps powered by Bangs & Olfsen ZED Audio 4 Channel Amp Bridged @ 275wrms x 2, Center Channel powered by Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2 @ 175wrms x 2, FOUR RARE Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 w/ SSA internals, 3cuft ported box @ 31Hz, 2 Audiopipe AP18001D's 1800wrms x 2 (3600wrms) XS D3400 Battery. 4800wrms
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 06:00 AM Thread Starter
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Also, here is a good question, atleast I think so.

Is this a good time to get an E-Locker? Wondering if I should try to find a Differential specifically for an SE Off-Road Armada or go aftermarket, if they are any different.

Would I need it for the front also if I did this? I like the E-Locker option as I saw it on a Titan Pro-4x and I loved that idea and read a post where you can wire it up to where the E-Locker can work in any mode, not just 4Low. If so, what are my options and pricing? I don't know much about Lockers, but is this the whole assembly or is it something you subtract and add in? I'm clueless as to what a Locker assembly is. I suppose a Limited Slip like a Tru-Trac would be better as it can work in any condition, not just in loose conditions to where as a locker cannot be used on hard surfaces. I guess I'll have to do some research to see what one looks like.

I GOT MORE SPEAKERS THAN YOU. 2004 Armada SE 4x4 Fully Loaded, Bilstein 5100's, 2" Rear Lift, Towing Package, Leather, Power Seats, Auto-Air, Rear Parking Sensors. Rockford 3Sixty.1 DSP, JVC KW-NT800HDT, FRONT: Focal Utopia Comps powered by Audiopipe AQX-360.4 Bridged @ 320wrms x 2, 2nd Row: Focal K2p Comps powered by Bangs & Olfsen ZED Audio 4 Channel Amp Bridged @ 275wrms x 2, Center Channel powered by Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2 @ 175wrms x 2, FOUR RARE Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 w/ SSA internals, 3cuft ported box @ 31Hz, 2 Audiopipe AP18001D's 1800wrms x 2 (3600wrms) XS D3400 Battery. 4800wrms

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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 06:38 AM
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Sorry to hear that man. i havent heard of many armada diffs failing. If it were me I think you'd be better off with trying to get a tru trac then the e locker. If the tru trac is even available for the armada. Like you said from the factory the e locker only works in 4 lo. Plus the tru trac replaces the weak spider gears these doffs are known for. And I thought there were failures with the ones that they had wired to use in any mode. I plan on trying to replace my elocker on my pro4x whenever I have the money saved up.


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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 07:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks. Yeah, that's what Bob said. That he hasn't heard of any rear differentials failing. I told him that the front and rear differential fluid was changed at 67k miles. I bought it with 82k miles and it now has 90k miles on it. He asked what fluid was used. It doesn't say in my book. This Armada has been nothing but trouble since I got it. I'll never get a used vehicle from up North where they use salt instead of sand.

It's nice to see another fellow Northern Okie.



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Originally Posted by 08ArmadaSE View Post
Sorry to hear that man. i havent heard of many armada diffs failing. If it were me I think you'd be better off with trying to get a tru trac then the e locker. If the tru trac is even available for the armada. Like you said from the factory the e locker only works in 4 lo. Plus the tru trac replaces the weak spider gears these doffs are known for. And I thought there were failures with the ones that they had wired to use in any mode. I plan on trying to replace my elocker on my pro4x whenever I have the money saved up.


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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 08:05 AM
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Nothing wrong with only locking the rear or a locker in 4h. You do not want to make lots of fast turns on dry pavement when locked.

There are lots of lockers out there, I'd look around before I popped on a factory unit.

Want to be 100% sure you get the gears right or you will be doing this again soon.


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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 09:08 AM
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Thanks. Yeah, that's what Bob said. That he hasn't heard of any rear differentials failing. I told him that the front and rear differential fluid was changed at 67k miles. I bought it with 82k miles and it now has 90k miles on it. He asked what fluid was used. It doesn't say in my book. This Armada has been nothing but trouble since I got it. I'll never get a used vehicle from up North where they use salt instead of sand.

It's nice to see another fellow Northern Okie.
Ya I've noticed your posts. Sounds like you've had some issues. Maybe once you get them all done it'll be trouble for a long time. Where in ok you from? It seems like there's mostly southern Okies on here. I'm hoping to make it down to okc once I get my lift and tires on the T to try and wheel with pops and his crew if he does still.


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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 09:47 AM
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I'm curious. What were the tell tale signs


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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Straight West of you. Say, 150 miles or so. Okeene is where I was raised. 40 miles southwest of Enid. 80 miles northwest of Bob; Oklahoma City.I have relatives that live in Glenpool and Tulsa. Moved to Dallas and was there for 10 years, moved back to Okeene and just moved to Cherokee (20 minutes West of Alva and 45 minutes Northwest of Okeene) living at work, on site, in my 32ft dual slide out camper.

Funny thing is, I didn't even tow the camper up here. My dad did in his 2012 Hemi Ram. However, the guy who sold it to me, sold it to me on here and he did alot of towing. Makes me wonder if he towed over 9100lbs or not. Or if it was the wrong fluid. Even though the fluid was changed 23k miles ago, I'm gonna have the shop change out the front differential fluid. Now I know why I am the 3rd owner. LOL I'll have everything replaced except for the gas cap by the time I'm done with her. ha. Well in all actuality; the Armada should be in tip top shape with nothing else to go wrong. *Knock On Wood* Out of this truck, the one thing that has been running the strongest, has been the motor and transmission. Hasn't skipped a beat and shows no sign of ever failing. *Knock on Wood Again*

Alot of some major parts have already been replaced. I know there is one MAJOR part that has been replaced. I think it's either the Transfer Case or the Front Differential. I'm thinking the TC.
This is what has been replaced and I'm going off memory since my truck is in Alva with the Manual with everything written down:

*3 Wheel Bearing Hubs (I replaced one; rear driver's. Then replaced it AGAIN 3 months later if you can believe that. So it has one OEM Wheel Hub)
*Transfer Case (I believe that's what was replaced)
*Rear Differential - In Progress

OK Well.... I thought I could remember more, but I can't. No sleep last night. I will edit this post or update it when I get my Manual, which I am going to get before it gets out of the shop.

So when it's all said and done. I think this rig will actually be ALMOST better than new. With Aftermarket parts and all. I have been dying to get a 6" lift kit, but I am also just ready for an actual pickup, so I have been going towards saving up for a brand new tricked out 2500HD Duramax with a 6" lift and 35's already installed. But I can't save up anything if it's always getting fixed. I usually do everything myself, but this job isn't one I can do. Plus I don't have my step dad's 6 car shop in Okeene; 45 minutes south of me.

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Originally Posted by 08ArmadaSE View Post
Ya I've noticed your posts. Sounds like you've had some issues. Maybe once you get them all done it'll be trouble for a long time. Where in ok you from? It seems like there's mostly southern Okies on here. I'm hoping to make it down to okc once I get my lift and tires on the T to try and wheel with pops and his crew if he does still.


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I GOT MORE SPEAKERS THAN YOU. 2004 Armada SE 4x4 Fully Loaded, Bilstein 5100's, 2" Rear Lift, Towing Package, Leather, Power Seats, Auto-Air, Rear Parking Sensors. Rockford 3Sixty.1 DSP, JVC KW-NT800HDT, FRONT: Focal Utopia Comps powered by Audiopipe AQX-360.4 Bridged @ 320wrms x 2, 2nd Row: Focal K2p Comps powered by Bangs & Olfsen ZED Audio 4 Channel Amp Bridged @ 275wrms x 2, Center Channel powered by Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2 @ 175wrms x 2, FOUR RARE Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 w/ SSA internals, 3cuft ported box @ 31Hz, 2 Audiopipe AP18001D's 1800wrms x 2 (3600wrms) XS D3400 Battery. 4800wrms

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 11:13 AM Thread Starter
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Ok well.. A few months ago this started to happen. When I would put my truck in Drive or Reverse, it would bang. Not sure if that's the word or not, but not a bang like you would hear, just more of one you would feel. I figured my transmission mounts were bad and I was going to get it fixed. So I only drove it when I had to. I would use my other car, so I wouldn't damage it if it was something serious. Hence why I have only put 8k miles on the truck since I got it in November; 1000 miles in the past 3 months. Well a couple weeks ago it started to get a little worse. As in it would do it all the time, not just every once in a while.

Well when I moved up here for my new job last week, I was pulling an unloaded small car trailer. Cant weigh anymore than 1000 lbs. Well maybe it could, I dont know. I attached a picture below of the unloaded trailer and threw in a picture of my camper that my step dad was pulling and what I'm living in till I find a house. I just walked outside and took the pictures. THE CAR HAULER TRAILER IS FOR SALE BY THE WAY. Gotta pay for my new rearend somehow. lol Well anyway, I was following him, since he was towing and I went to pass him since we were getting close and I knew where to go. It's a good thing I had him tow the camper instead of me; 20 minutes into the journey and my rear end would have exploded going down the highway, which could have locked up my rear end and my tires skidding, jack kniffing down the highway with this 6500+lbs beast behind me. So anyway I noticed my Armada wasn't scooting like its suppose to and has been. I got around him and started thinking. Ok, I'm not just getting use to the Armada and getting comfortable, this thing really isn't as quick as it use to be at WOT.

Ok so a few days go by. I leave work and go into town to Alva for my Pre-Employment Physical. Don't ask me why a Dispatch Supervisor needs one. I leave and notice my rpms were high when I set my cruise control at 66mph. I was turning around 2400rpm. I turn 2000rpm at 70mph with my 33.44" Cooper Discoverer STT TEK3 M/T's. Same one that Bob (Pops) has. I played with the shifter and it doesnt do anything. So I'm like crap. It's my transmission.

Well I get going some more and come up on a semi; one of mine actually, and I clicked the Cancel button on the Cruise Control. It started to make this sound that I can't remember now. It was definitely noticeable. Sounded like it was coming from the middle or the back. I didn't know which. It was a spinning sound for sure. Maybe a spinning grind of some sort? So I am playing throttle, off, throttle, off with the heavy load semi. Everytime I got off the throttle, it would make that sound and then everytime I would ease on the accelerator to give it throttle, it would slam. As if I had a high stall Torque Convertor that would only catch at a certain RPM to catch into gear. So I thought. Crap. My transmission mounts are broke, which has now caused my U-Joints to go out. Well I get into town, start going down neighborhoods to see if I could find my ex gf's house she had when she was in college. Ok we are talking over a decade here. The slamming got worse. Just a little bit of throttle and it would slam. I found the house, someone was living in it. Can't rent that house. It's a small college town.

So I thought, well lets go to Walmart, let it cool off or something. Do something other than drive around in it. Got back in it. Reverse out of my parking space and started driving and noticed these bad @ss looking tires on this lifted truck. So I did a U-Turn to check them out and BOOM! It explodes after I did the U-Turn and now I'm in the middle between parking spaces and I'm blocking people. My first instinct was to give it gas, but the RPMS just climbed and the truck barely moved. Well I had to get it out of the way. I got out and looked underneath and fluid was everywhere and leaking from the Rear Differential. I tried to put it in Reverse to get it out of the way. The damage was done, I can't F it up anymore than what just happened. It's not the motor, so what else could happen. That didn't work. I kept it in Reverse and what little it had left to spin, I used that to push it back into a spot.

And that's the story.

*Jolts when you put it into gear intermittently. Had to do with whether there was strain on the gear or not; like if it was parked on a hill and you put it in gear without the E-Brake on.

*Starts to happen everytime

*Loose alot of power. No more uuummmppphhh. Passing power reduced. Gradual that I didn't notice. It wasn't like an all of sudden symptom

*Revs higher at highway speed at a constant speed

*Weird spinning grinding noise from the rear during deceleration

*Parked or cruising down the highway, anytime you are off the throttle and engage the throttle, even just a bit, it slams into gear

*Catastrophic Failure

Guess I could have just typed that part up instead of my novel, but it's hard to explain without my narration.

So incase no one read that..


THE CAR HAULER TRAILER IN THE FIRST PICTURE IS FOR SALE DUE TO: MY ARMADA NEEDS A NEW REAR END.




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I'm curious. What were the tell tale signs


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I GOT MORE SPEAKERS THAN YOU. 2004 Armada SE 4x4 Fully Loaded, Bilstein 5100's, 2" Rear Lift, Towing Package, Leather, Power Seats, Auto-Air, Rear Parking Sensors. Rockford 3Sixty.1 DSP, JVC KW-NT800HDT, FRONT: Focal Utopia Comps powered by Audiopipe AQX-360.4 Bridged @ 320wrms x 2, 2nd Row: Focal K2p Comps powered by Bangs & Olfsen ZED Audio 4 Channel Amp Bridged @ 275wrms x 2, Center Channel powered by Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2 @ 175wrms x 2, FOUR RARE Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 w/ SSA internals, 3cuft ported box @ 31Hz, 2 Audiopipe AP18001D's 1800wrms x 2 (3600wrms) XS D3400 Battery. 4800wrms

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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old 07-28-2013, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Good deal. Thanks for the info. If I do the rear, I'll want to do the front eventually, although I bet that has to be a PITA to do. I would think it's harder to access, drop and remove. Like I mentioned above, I fell in love with the Electronic Switch for the E-Locker on the Titan Pro-4X. I just like the fact that I can turn it on and off. That and if you were to combine a Jeep Unlimited Rubicon's Electronic Stabilizer Bar Disconnect at the flip of a switch within arms reach. Oh what a beautiful combination for pure Off-Roading.

I wish I had the funds available or would have waited, because that Pro-4X only had 20k miles on it, was lifted enough to make the 33's look small, had power slide out step rails, was black which is my favorite color on a vehicle, AND was a LONG BED. Not many Titan Pro-4X Long Beds out there. Sale price to me: $20k That's a $1 per mile for a lifted rare truck with accessories. It was gorgeous. I'll have to dig up a picture of it. I just formatted my computer last night, so trying to find anything is a scavenger hunt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CJATE View Post
Nothing wrong with only locking the rear or a locker in 4h. You do not want to make lots of fast turns on dry pavement when locked.

There are lots of lockers out there, I'd look around before I popped on a factory unit.

Want to be 100% sure you get the gears right or you will be doing this again soon.


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I GOT MORE SPEAKERS THAN YOU. 2004 Armada SE 4x4 Fully Loaded, Bilstein 5100's, 2" Rear Lift, Towing Package, Leather, Power Seats, Auto-Air, Rear Parking Sensors. Rockford 3Sixty.1 DSP, JVC KW-NT800HDT, FRONT: Focal Utopia Comps powered by Audiopipe AQX-360.4 Bridged @ 320wrms x 2, 2nd Row: Focal K2p Comps powered by Bangs & Olfsen ZED Audio 4 Channel Amp Bridged @ 275wrms x 2, Center Channel powered by Phoenix Gold Tantrum 500.2 @ 175wrms x 2, FOUR RARE Sundown Audio SA-8 V.2 w/ SSA internals, 3cuft ported box @ 31Hz, 2 Audiopipe AP18001D's 1800wrms x 2 (3600wrms) XS D3400 Battery. 4800wrms
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