08 Armada just cranks and cranks - Nissan Armada Forum: Armada & Infiniti QX56 Forums
User Tag List

 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-11-2017, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
SHIFT_Lurker
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
 
08 Armada just cranks and cranks

Hey guys, I am looking for some advice on possible issues with our armada. I have been doing research to figure things out but not really found a true answer.

Basically what is happening is the armada will just crank and crank and crank at times. It has only happened when it has been cold outside and the car has sat overnight or longer. It happened 1 time last year. I disconnected the battery and charged battery cause I drained it and it started up fine. I never had another problem with it last year. The battery is 2 years old. I load tested it last year and checked fine.

This year, it became cold and it sat outside all night and it would not start. It just cranks and cranks. I disconnected the battery and charged it and it started right up. Another week later it proceeds to do the same thing. Charged battery and was fine. Couple days ago, did same thing charged battery and seemed fine. Still seemed sluggish on startup but it fired. and now 2 days later I am back in the same boat.

I did try swapping the ipdm relays the first time it happened this year and did not seem to help. I bought a new relay but have not put it in yet. I had originally thought the fuel pump but I dont think it is possible because it does start after charging. My only thoughts is the battery has a dead cell or when I disconnect the battery to charge it is resetting the computer allowing the no start issue to correct itself. I have even thought it could be something on draining the battery as it only does not start after sits long time and when it is cold. After starting first time in day it starts fine everywhere else. It is only when it sits for like 10 hours it seems.

There is no CEL other then for the cat in headers. They are cracked but I have not gotten around to replacing them.
mxrider523 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-11-2017, 11:49 AM
SHIFT_Hardcore
 
SGreenlyn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 276
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 68 Post(s)
 
A few thoughts:

1. If it cranks and cranks, it's not the battery or starter. But if it is sluggish to turn over, your charging system might not be keeping up. My experience with the charging system is that the computer's applied voltage, regardless of alternator power, isn't high enough to charge the battery fully unless you occasionally take long trips to charge the battery for hours. Lots of short trips will eventually drain and degrade the battery, so we need to hook up a good battery charger--maybe once a month with an old battery or once a quarter with a new battery. That's one of the reasons I installed a solar charger. Now my battery cranks like new, all the time.

2. Given the above, it sounds like fuel or ignition. Since it catches and runs eventually, its a fair guess that ignition is there from the beginning. That leaves fuel. I understand your view on the pump working if the car eventually catches, but that wouldn't rule out an intermittent pump or a weak pump that's slow to build pressure at idle, and could fall behind at RPM.

3. Could be cavitation in the fuel lines from a small air leak breaking the vacuum overnight. If the fuel system isn't air tight, it should produce an Evap Leak SES whenever the self test runs, but if the leak is small enough it might never see the a problem because it only runs the test when the motor is running/pumping fuel. When air is introduced overnight, the fuel settles back down into the tank, leaving the lines full of air until the pump has time to re-pressurize the system with fuel. Since it happens in the winter, that might point to an aging or shrinking seal somewhere--the gas cap seal would be the most common point of failure. My experience is that non-OEM fuel caps don't seem to seal well enough for dependable use. Could also be a leaky fuel injector o-ring, an aging fuel pump gasket, a bad Canister Vent Solenoid (or power to it), or a bad fuel line.

4. A bad sensing unit. The sensing unit is integral to the fuel pump in our Armadas. It can show plenty of gas in the tank when the tank is actually empty. If you park on an incline it could make a nearly empty tank effectively empty.

Trouble shooting ideas:

- Turn the key to ON for 10 seconds before attempting to crank. That will energize the pump and re-pressurize the lines between the tank and engine if they are full of air. If the truck always starts right up after doing that, then you probably have a slow leak somewhere that is breaking the fuel system vacuum.

- When you go to get gas, listen for the vacuum breaking as you unscrew the gas cap. If you don't hear it letting air in as you break the seal, you have an air leak. If you hear the vacuum break immediately after the engine was running, do the same test after the truck sits overnight to test for a slow leak.

- Could be an intermittent fuel pump or bad sensing unit. Here's how to replace the pump and sensing unit for $110 or so. Replacing the pump and sensing unit is an easy DIY, though the locking ring can be fussy to turn. Be sure to replace the old gasket with the new gasket included with the pump assembly.

The dealer or a pro mechanic will tell you that you HAVE to trouble shoot with a smoke test or you'll wind up replacing good parts. That approach makes total sense if the test doesn't cost twice as much as all the suspect parts combined. Plus, replacing inexpensive parts that are past their known MBTF, instead of testing them, is the essence of cost-effective preventative maintenance.

Good luck.

2005 Armada LE 207K miles,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
, rear cats deleted and replaced with 2 x Vibrant 1792 resonators, Magnaflow 22", stock pipes, dual tips, home made K&N RU-3270 intake,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
with 6000K 75W HIDs,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
, 36W LED projector fogs, LEDs all around,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
, 400W rear amp + Bose 161s in back,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
, 'Armada' emblem wrap for the hamburger,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
for interior exhaust fans and continuous battery charging.

Last edited by SGreenlyn; 12-11-2017 at 12:12 PM.
SGreenlyn is offline  
post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-11-2017, 12:45 PM Thread Starter
SHIFT_Lurker
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
 
Thanks for the reply. Yea my original thought is the battery is bad. But I haven't tested it this year. I will later today. There is no other symptoms of issues. I had thought of the fuel pump originally but yea alot times the tank has been lower towards empty. Today the tank is full and still doing it.

My biggest thing is once I disconnect the positive terminal to charge the battery over a couple hours span, I reconnect the terminal and it starts up which leads me to believe it is a battery or computer issue. Sometimes it starts right up without hesitation and other times it kinda chugs and then catches after few seconds. Sometimes when it chugs and then catches you can see it dim everything down as it starts.

I am thinking it could possibly be a immobilizer issue also according to some research. When it has happened in the past I have tried both sets of keys and it still wouldnt start. Even tried sticking them in ignition but like said once I disconnect battery and charge and hook back up it starts up as in the immobilizer system could been reset.
mxrider523 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 12-24-2017, 07:09 PM
SHIFT_Enthusiast
 
FISHDAWG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: fullerton ca.
Posts: 120
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
 
Cool

i had the same issue with my 08 se ... turned out to be my 7.62x39 key chain creating a bad signal for the security feature built into these trucks. you know the flashing red truck in the dash, next time insert your key into the ignition and wait til you see this icon flash, then try starting it up. Been working for me ever since i removed my key chain and all keys not needed. Good luck!

2008 SE, BANKS RAM AIR CAI , MAGNAFLOW 22" EXHAUST, DOUBLE BARREL EXHAUST TIP, 6000k HID HEADLIGHTS, 3000K HID FOGGERS. FOR NOW..........
FISHDAWG is offline  
Reply

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome