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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We bought an 04 Armada last fall that had 150k kms on it. It's been ok so far for the most part. But recently it's been dying while the wife is driving it. At first it was on the highway in rush hour, it just quit, restarted fine then died a few minutes later down the road, fired right back up and was fine for 2-3 weeks. I scanned it with a cheapo code reader and a decent scanner and the only code that comes up is the one it's had since we bought it, it's for the vent solenoid. And of course I can't get the thing to die when I'm driving it.
A few day's ago it died again, and it fired back up like normal, was good again for a few day's until this morning. She made it 1/2 block away from home and it died then wouldn't start back up right away. It would crank over fine though. She let it sit a few mins and got it going again, took it home and took a different vehicle. I'm hoping there's a code stored this time.

I'm not going to throw random parts at this thing, I'd like to figure out wth is going on. But hard to fix if it aint broke. I haven't done anything yet. I guess the first step is to get it to die and try to pin point if it's losing fuel, spark or both. I'm hoping the thing won't start when I get home from work but that's doubtful.
Could someone point me where to look for the crank and cam sensors, I'd like to do a wiggle test with them first. This thing is pretty crusty underneath so a corroded connector is likely. Other thoughts are the ecm relay or fuel pump on it's way out.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Just scanned the thing, it’s got a cam position sensor circuit code stored p0340
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It looks like I'm taking the unconventional route. I have NOT replaced the fuel pump, tipm,ecm relay or cats. That seems to be the suggested order that many have taken when a stalling or drive ability problem pops up:)

I'm not positive the cam sensor is the problem but it's cheap and looks relatively easy to replace. I wiggled the connector at the sensor and the wiring harness in various places while it was running and couldn't get it to even hick up. I'll just replace it cause I'll probably break it while removal, then compare the resistance between the two to confirm this is the problem and maybe post back with what I find.
Hopefully this is gonna be the fix for the stalling. Then onto a bunch of other problems this basket case has,fuel gauge not accurate, slow to fill up with gas,power steering pressure line seeps,tranny lines leak at rad(rubber hose),might as well change the rad before the trans cooler cracks like they all seem to, tpms sensors don't work,sway bar bushings pounded out, air ride sensor height codes, release cable to flip center row seat is broken. Just need this thing to last another year or two then it's outta here.
 

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Turn the car on > switch the radio off > hold the settings button and turn the volume dial counterclockwise for 30 clicks. Then go into one of the screens and there is a log. It will tell you which error codes were thrown or logged.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I figured I'd update this. Changed the cam sensor on the back of the drivers side head and haven't had another stalling problems since. I work for a napa type company so get parts at cost and just went with a standard brand sensor.
 

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I figured I'd update this. Changed the cam sensor on the back of the drivers side head and haven't had another stalling problems since. I work for a napa type company so get parts at cost and just went with a standard brand sensor.
Are you still problem free?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah it's never died again since I replaced that cam sensor. And I'm trouble free cause I just sold
 
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