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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey folks!
So I finally pulled the trigger to bracket lift my Armada. I just went through replacing the front axels that wore out very quickly after doing the 2" leveling kit, likely due to the angle at normal height being nearly full droop pre-leveling kit. Additionally, due to limited camber adjustment on the rear, I ended up having too much toe-in and ripping through tires. Anyhow, I want to put out some warnings to folks buying the rear setup and talk through the process as it's going forward. My goal in lifting this rig is to get over the snow berms left behind by the county snowplow. Too often do I have to go out and clear just a few inches off the top to get over it. I want to drive over it :). I dont spend much time in the dirt, but a lot in the snow and on the street.

I ordered the full Rough Country Titan 6" lift kit with struts and I ordered off Amazon as I find it way easier to return stuff to them than anywhere else I purchase online. Here's the link. Rough Country 6" with Shocks/Struts

I attempted to order the PRG 6" rear lift, but as others have experienced, Greg went radio silent after receiving my money, and I couldn't a response until I submit a paypal case requesting refund. I will say that Greg returned the full amount quickly, and I bought my UCAs from him prior which was a smooth transaction.

I called around to some fabricators, they wanted a good hunk of change to fabricate from scratch, so I turned to CJD Racing, the only other place I could find on the internet with a 5.5" rear option available. I went through the same radio silence issue after a month of waiting, and another week waiting for a response to a "label printed" status of my order I was told shipped. There was no answer of the phone, no answer of emails, but... Paypal case, near instant response, but he was demanding I ship back (which hadnt even shipped) and pay a 25% restocking fee. I was baffled! Natu
rally, later that week my order shipped and I hoped the parts would be better than the service..... They looked OK out the box....

Here is the link to the CJD kit (proceed with caution, purchase with more caution).
CJD 5.5" rear lift

I've had my Armada with a mechanic who specializes in custom 4x4 fabrication to install the kit... Glad I did, because that rear is anything but "bolt on".
The holes on the bigger blocks didnt align with the frame, new holes required to be drilled. The stock bolts (told to use in instructions) are too long and dont have enough thread to secure a nut. The 'CJD Racing' logo was welded on UPSIDE DOWN... (yes, double checked it wasn't a left vs right issue). The bolts for the drop cylinders was too short. Good luck finding a 9/16 8 inch bolt at your local hardware store, but you'll find 5/8 all day long. The cylinder had to be drilled out to fit the new bolt. (I'm waiting for more calls on what else is going to be an issue, hopefully the extended brake lines work : /. ... I'm concerned for safety now... welp. you only live once? I have 4 kids, I need them to live too... UGH. All of the parts are going to be welded on to secure... oh, and the powder coating that is on them is also flakey and done poorly.

Luckily, my mechanic is a badass and has done the needful to make things fit and secure it properly. We've discussed additional measures, and he's going to move forward with welding the blocks to the frame to secure them.

Another nice thing, I don't need to buy the overpriced shocks for these rear blocks because the rear shocks that come with the rough country Titan kit are the right size and length and will do just fine. (glad I didn't buy the others, even if they were better, saved me some coin).

When I get it back, I'll post pictures of the finished product and more detailed pics of the issues with the CJD kit. What a waste of money and how are these guys even still in business?

- GRIT

This was just after I installed the 2" leveling kit back in 2018.
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Hope this works out. Looking to do something similar.

Currently have a 2.5” spacer Bilstien lift from PRG and will be spec’ing some 35” all terrains. Would love to get a couple inches higher as we see quite a bit of off-roading in utah.

Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Went out today to check in. Rear is near completed.
  • Welded lifting cylinders and blocks to chassis.
  • Needs a bracket fabricated for smog canister to the left of gas tank (mounts to sub-frame, but wont anymore because the subframe is 6" lower :) )
  • Rear blocks had to be redrilled to fit a nipple/stub on the sub frame.
  • Had to purchase nearly all new bolts because the kit came with bolts that were to short, or suggested using stock bolts which didn't have enough thread to secure the nut before hitting the smooth part of the bolt.
  • Break lines went just fine.

Will continue to update as I have them. Should have back at home by the end of the week.

Had to take a second trip - helping pick up different parts. Had to get some new bolts for the rear as the ones he had on hand also didn't have enough thread. Took some pics. As part of this install, I purchased new lower spring insulators to restore my ride comfort and I given this lift type, no longer need (or want) the larger spacers which as I mentioned in the initial post doesnt make for desirable alignment. One thing that isnt in this picture is the replacement bolts that go on the bottom of the lift block (where it meets the top of the spring). I brought those during this visit. you can see in the picture, the bolts provided are not long enough to clear the lock nut. We've also decided that it would be a good idea to fabricate linkage between the suspension carriage and the main chassis. Will post pictures of that when completed as well.
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Picking it up tomorrow! Will take for alignment, get my wheel spacers installed once they come in, and update once more. I need to take it back to him for the linkage to the main chassis as he has a few other vehicles he needs to get some quick jobs done that have been waiting.

Here is the evolution from Stock, to leveling kit+tires, and now 6" lift. When I bring it home, I'll take some more closer up pics of things as well. He sent me a teaser pic lol.



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Nice, it’s beast now. I’m on 2.5-3” lift right now. I’m going to try and squeeze some 35” all terrains first and then talk to my mechanic/fabricator about this setup.

Was also looking a solid rear axle conversion. We want to ride this thing harder haha. Also want a rear locker which is a bit of an issue with the R230 dif.

Thanks for the updates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So all is looking well, ordered my hub centric wheel adapters to bring the wheels out 1.5" for some stance, but I'm looking at the driveshaft and it's evident the shaft is sticking out about 1-2" further (haven't measured) than normal from the transfer case making me think a driveshaft spacer is necessary to ensure there is plenty of contact in the transfer case. Drives fine, but makes me nervous.

Should be off for alignment sometime this week as well, but I have a feeling the tire shop isnt going to want to mess with the adjustable UCAs which need to be turned out a notch for camber correction. My jack no longer reaches the frame LOL so I need to get an extension kit or a block to lift each front corner and adjust on my own I suppose. all the little things...

So finished the alignment today, no longer looks like its bow-legged lol. Although, after picking it up from the tire shop, I noticed the service engine soon light on (first time ever since I've owned the vehicle). P0460 is what I pulled from the OBDII and all I can find is "discrepancy between fuel level sending unit and fuel gauge" Likely, I'll replace the fuel pump if I'm going to get in there :/ First I'm going to clear the code and see if it comes back, but quite the coincidence to have this just after I lifted the truck and it NEVER showed up prior. Thoughts?
 

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So all is looking well, ordered my hub centric wheel adapters to bring the wheels out 1.5" for some stance, but I'm looking at the driveshaft and it's evident the shaft is sticking out about 1-2" further (haven't measured) than normal from the transfer case making me think a driveshaft spacer is necessary to ensure there is plenty of contact in the transfer case. Drives fine, but makes me nervous.

Should be off for alignment sometime this week as well, but I have a feeling the tire shop isnt going to want to mess with the adjustable UCAs which need to be turned out a notch for camber correction. My jack no longer reaches the frame LOL so I need to get an extension kit or a block to lift each front corner and adjust on my own I suppose. all the little things...

So finished the alignment today, no longer looks like its bow-legged lol. Although, after picking it up from the tire shop, I noticed the service engine soon light on (first time ever since I've owned the vehicle). P0460 is what I pulled from the OBDII and all I can find is "discrepancy between fuel level sending unit and fuel gauge" Likely, I'll replace the fuel pump if I'm going to get in there :/ First I'm going to clear the code and see if it comes back, but quite the coincidence to have this just after I lifted the truck and it NEVER showed up prior. Thoughts?
Curious. I would check to see if some connecter didn't get shorted or jostled during the modification. Don't see why the lift would affect anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I checked on this yesterday, only connectors I could see that got moved were relating to the ABS sensor wires. I cleared the code, we'll see if it comes back in 150 miles, not sure how long it will take me to put those miles on since I'm hardly driving it right now.

60 miles, still in good shape - wheel adapters (hubcentric) are on - not sure I like them, makes me nervous.

Code didnt come back - no pending codes either :)
 
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