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Discussion Starter #1
I've read and absorbed a lot of data on the typical exhaust leak issues and options. I'm pretty sure I have a passenger side leak based on original suspicion and now a CEL code which indicates such. I plan to do the work myself and would love to go the Cajun B-pipes route but unless I don't have a cheaper viable option I don't think I can justify the cost right now. Somewhere in my reading I thought I came across some non-OEM manifolds discussed in a thread here but I now can't seem to find them. So here are my questions:

For the sake of emissions and inspection requirements I'm in Texas.

Is there a Cajun option that gets me where I need to be under $1k? My understanding is I'd end up spending something more like $2.5k.

Assuming the answer to number one is "no", can someone recommend a source for a replacement right side manifold? I see several options on eBay and some of the online parts sites (ranging from $180 on up) but I have no idea how good any of them may or may not be or how long they are likely to last.

Any other guidance or pointing me to good resources would be much appreciated! Thanks!!
 

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I've gone the route of Cajun's JBA long tubes / B pipes / UpRev tune.

Yeah, there are non-OEM manifolds out there, but I don't know of hardly any folks here that have gone that route. I may have only read of one or two that have. I personally would be concerned about quality of fitment... and just overall quality. My mechanic also had those concerns when I told him I was going with headers. He was reluctant to do the job as he was concerned about the parts mating up correctly. He accepted the job though, and said the JBA's were no problem at all after the install.

Sidenote... If I were you, I would do both sides at the same time, even if only one side is currently leaking. It is not a job that I would want to do more than once and if you have one side leaking, chances are good the other side is not far behind.

If you're doing the work yourself, this is a great reference video...

 
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The way I understand it you aren’t saving any time or anything by doing both sides at the same time. Correct me if I’m wrong but the two sides are completely separate when it comes to removal and install. Given that I’d be more likely just do one side for now and see how it goes if I use a drop in replacement.
 

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The way I understand it you aren’t saving any time or anything by doing both sides at the same time.
I guess it depends on what style replacement you are going with. If it is an OEM style replacement, your perspective is probably correct. But if you go with Cajun's B pipes and JBA long tubes, I don't know if connection points would match up doing just one side. You would need to give Cajun (Jeff) a call and talk to him.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I guess it depends on what style replacement you are going with. If it is an OEM style replacement, your perspective is probably correct. But if you go with Cajun's B pipes and JBA long tubes, I don't know if connection points would match up doing just one side. You would need to give Cajun (Jeff) a call and talk to him.
I agree that if I was doing any sort of upgrade like Cajun or JBA I would absolutely do both side at the same time so that they would match. I can't imagine the squirrely ramifications of having an exhaust mismatch like that. But unless I can get to an upgrade solution like that DIY and under a grand I'm hoping to find the best drop in replacement.
 

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If you do the install yourself, you are not spending $2,500.
I'm not trying to sway you towards the Cajun option, I'm just providing you accurate info on pricing.

Cajun B-pipes with the JBA long tubes and UpRev tune ran me about $1,400.
I understand you are trying to keep it under $1k, but I think this is also one of those - you get what you pay for deals.

No matter which route you go, be sure you get the OEM gaskets. They are superior to any others out there.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the pricing info. I had $2500 in my head for some reason which is a big difference from $1400. Makes it worth considering but still on the fence. I'll email them just to get all the necessary info.

Still looking for anyone who can comment on experience with a drop in replacement.

Thanks!
 

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FWIW.....I live in California and recently went the route of JBA shorties because I had no other option to stay legal here. My 06 threw no codes but I suspected the passenger side manifold was cracked. I originally planned to weld the stock manifold and reinstall until I got it off and saw how bad it was. Turns out the drivers side was even worse but all the ticking was coming from the passenger side. So I would plan on doing both sides and if you want to save money the shorties work well. No uprev tune needed.
 

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FWIW.....I live in California and recently went the route of JBA shorties because I had no other option to stay legal here. My 06 threw no codes but I suspected the passenger side manifold was cracked. I originally planned to weld the stock manifold and reinstall until I got it off and saw how bad it was. Turns out the drivers side was even worse but all the ticking was coming from the passenger side. So I would plan on doing both sides and if you want to save money the shorties work well. No uprev tune needed.
As I understand it I will need to have cats (Or a flange for cats?) welded onto the shorties is that correct?
 

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I used my existing cats and tack welded then to the shorties. I then took them to a shop to have them properly welded to the headers. JBA includes instructions on this.

49304
 

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Id have to have the shop do all the welding. Any idea what a ballpark cost that would be?
 

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You need to temporarily install the headers in order to locate and tack the cats properly. I think I paid $65 ? to have the cats welded once I took them to a shop. I would suggest you locate an independent mobile welder that could come to you.
 
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