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Discussion Starter #1
2012 Platinum w/ 120k mi. I know there are many posts w/ this problem but they are all older models. W/ or w/out the key when I turn the ign switch all I hear is a click and all accessories come up. The second time try it usually starts. It has been doing it for a couple of weeks. Today I purchased a new key fob from Batteries plus and had the syst wiped clean and reprogrammed, leaving the store same thing only it took many tries before it started and been fine the rest of the day ,5 more starts in the driveway. Is this the common relay that is going bad that plagues the older models or maybe a dead spot on the starter armature. The battery is less than a year. Any help would be appreciated, thanks..
 

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hello and welcome.

just because the posts are for older cars, its the same basic engine and computer components.

things it could be:

IPDM
Cam position sensor

a obd scan tool may also yield some helpful fault codes.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I took a pic of my 2 fuse boxes and they are different than a video on one of the other posts as far as which relay you could swap it out for in a pinch. My ign relay is a long green one that you can see into. I have not gotten a chance to upload them. Forgive my ignorance but what does IPDM stand for?

hear is my fuse/relay boxes, the ign relay is the long green one in the lower left of the photo img 73

Answered that question- Intelligent power distribution module

Still need some help. Is there a starter relay or is it just a solenoid on the starter itself. I noticed my fuse/ relay boxes are different than 2011 and below. I hear just 1 click when I turn the switch to crank but I have not gotten it to fail since yesterday. I hate to change the starter since it is buried under the intake. Again any help would be appreciated.
 

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have you been able to check for any trouble codes? thats a good place to start/

look in your operators manual. you should be able to swap the fog lamp relay for the starter to test. this is going by memory. there is lots of discussion on this here so some searching is recommended.

could also be a cam position sensor. search for that also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I brought my laptop out there and there were no codes. I looked at the schematic under both relay covers and did not see any fuse or relay for starter
 

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Stupid question. Have you cleaned the battery terminals and the posts. Also look for anything loose as far as connections. Grounds etc.
Doesn't hurt to try the easy stuff 1st.

Paul

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not a stupid question, yes battery terminals are tight no corrosion. Unfortunately terms on starter are buried. I do not know what else to check.
 

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The next thing to check is to make sure the battery is holding voltage while cranking. After that it most likely is the starter.
Boooooo!!

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So there is No relay in the fuse/relay boxes on the 2012 just ignition switch, battery or starter which has a solenoid on it. What sucks is this problem hasn't happened at all this week and when it does I will most likey be by myself and have to check voltage without letting go of the key.
 

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All the nissan cables are crimped, and not soldered. Look for pops grounding system upgrade, and remember to solder all connections. If you have a ton of junk on your key chain, it will loosen up the internal ign switch connections. Try using just the key without anything else hanging. If you insert the key, turn to on, wait till all buzzes, and clicks stop, then turn to start- and it doesn't, it's probably a voltage problem. The oem battery bands should be replaced soonest with solid, not hollow, lead clamps. Battery cables should be upgraded to minimum- 2ga, with soldered connectors. Oem cables, clamps, and connections won't flow minimum required amperage for continuous full power. Oem will pass a max of 30 amps, car uses 65 amps without lights, ac, or radio on. Check your battery AC voltage carrier wave. Nissan won't check that because it will immediately identify a faulty battery. Check the forum for maximum allowable ac voltage. With the engine running, connect a multimeter to the battery, select ac minimum voltage. You should have no more than about .2 volts ac. If you have 2-3 volts, it corrupts the voltage going to the relays. Ergo- problems starting.
 

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Battery cables should be upgraded to minimum- 2ga, with soldered connectors.
I'm not saying that the ground shouldn't be upgraded, but it seems that most places recommend crimping larger gauge cable instead of soldering. Solder tends to make the cable brittle and more prone to breaking, and many times it's difficult to properly solder large cables properly due to the amount of heat that is needed. Soldering connections typically aren't allowed on aircraft due to vibrations, which there are a lot of vibrations in an engine bay.

Here's one forum post and another site that discusses crimping vs soldering battery cables.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sorry for the delay in responding. I checked the a/c v while running .025vac battery shows 12.15 dc not running and 14.25 idle. My problem of not cranking during a start has lessened, about 1 in every 30 starts. I do not fell as I have a problem w/ amp flow ie- bad cables or crimps/connectors. I also never put a key in the ign to start, it stays in my pocket so no heavy keychain wearing out the ign switch. also no obd messages. Am I correct to say there are no relays in the syst that could be intermittently bad, it could only be the ign switch or starter?
 

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Am I correct to say there are no relays in the syst that could be intermittently bad, it could only be the ign switch or starter?
I had issues with my relay which would occasionally cause it to not start (it would just have a single click, making me think the battery was dead, but if I turned the key a few times, it would eventually fire right up). Once I replaced the relay (I think it was less than $10 on Amazon), I haven't had a problem since.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I had issues with my relay which would occasionally cause it to not start (it would just have a single click, making me think the battery was dead, but if I turned the key a few times, it would eventually fire right up). Once I replaced the relay (I think it was less than $10 on Amazon), I haven't had a problem since.
That sounds like my problem. What year do you have as the older ones have a different fusebox than my 2012. What relay was it , where was it and do you have the part #. Thanks. Niteridder64
 

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I got this relay, part # 284B7-CW29E. I don't remember for sure what relay it was on the system, but I believe it was on the bottom row, second one from the left. But the part number should match.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
2008, but I imagine it is the same for at least all 1st gen Armadas.
Damn, you have a different set up our relay boxes are different, not sure if I use the relay you mentioned, I will have to check. Thanks

Damn, you have a different set up our relay boxes are different, not sure if I use the relay you mentioned, I will have to check. Thanks
2005-2009NissanArmadaNissan Armada ECU Relay
2005-2009NissanFrontierNissan Frontier ECU Relay
2005-2009NissanPathfinderNissan Pathfinder ECU Relay
2004-2009NissanTitanNissan Titan ECU Relay
2005-2009NissanXterraNissan Xterra ECU Relay

Does anyone have or had the problem of the starter not cranking when the ign switch is turned but all bells and whistles come on. Only reply if your armada is 2010 or newer, thanks
 

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do u fix your armada yet
my got same problem
I bought a relay 284B7 CW29E on ebay and replace the first one from left It crank right up

B75EE607-4A38-47C1-941C-7B00FFDB16EF.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Dung, no I still have an intermittent problem. What year is your Armada? If it is 2010 or newer could you please take a pic of the relay in the fusebox that you.changed or tell me what the sticker inside the cover says it is,thanks.
 
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