[mkbruin]

Just acquired a 2018 Armanda with 97k miles. This will be used as a tow rig and I don't know the maintenance history, so I am looking to do a full fluid change.

Can you help me to fill in the gaps in this chart?

COMPONENT	FLUID	CAPACITY
Engine	Maxlife 5w30	7qt
Transmission	Magic S or Maxlife ATF	10 5/8 full; 5qt drain & fill
Transfer Case	TF-0870 GL4	2qt
Front Diff	GL5 80w90	1.6pt
Rear Diff	GL5 75w90	3.75pt (2.25qt)
Power Steering	Maxlife ATF
Brake Fluid	DOT 3, 4, or 5.1

 

[Mike_S]

2021 QX80, I assume 2018 is the same, driveline didn't really change.

ATF Nissan Matic S, 10 5/8 qt, lifetime (Valvoline Maxlife Multi-vehicle)
(~5 qt for simple drain and fill)

Transfer ATX90A, "Genuine NISSAN Transfer Fluid for ATX90A transfer", 3 1/8 pt,
999MP-TF0870P (>$60/qt!), GL-4, TF0870 (Redline MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4)

Front diff R180A 999MP-1XGPP0P, GL-5 80W-90, 1 5/8 pt (Redline 75W90 GL-5 GEAR OIL)

Rear diff R230 KLD37-00001, GL-5 75W-90, 3 3/4 pt (Redline 75W90 GL-5 GEAR OIL)

Prop shafts (4x U-joints, 2x slip joints) NLGI #2 lithium, (Lucas Red & Tacky)

Power steering, Dexron VI, 1 1/8 qt

Antifreeze POAT (blue)

 

[Jcross13]

Talk about perfect timing. I logged in to figure out what I need to get done on my 17 that's got 111k on it. I know plugs but wasn't sure on all the fluids. Thank you!

 

[traptes]

I believe that engine oil specs for your rig are 0-20 weight. I personally do not know if you can run 5-30 weight in a 18 model. We tow with ours as well and still use the factory spec 0-20 Nissan full synthetic. If anyone else can chime in with different information on the 5.6 Endurance engines that will help me out as well.

 

[Jcross13]

Along the same lines as traptes, I have a '17, 111K+ miles, tow and have always used the 0-20 synthetic with no issues.

 

[Mike_S]

I believe that engine oil specs for your rig are 0-20 weight.

If you go back to earlier years (I checked 2013), Nissan spec'd 5W-30 for the Armada. For the Nissan Patrol (same as Armada/QX80, only different) with the same VK56VD engine, Nissan currently prefers 0W-20 except 5W-30 (or 5W-40!) in the Middle East (where gas is cheap) for all ambient temperature ranges. 5W-30 and 5W-40 are shown for all temperatures above -22F. They go as high as 20W-50. Apparently, oil weight/temperature charts are too much for US consumers to understand. I strongly suspect that 0W-20 is simply for the small increase in gas mileage and reduced startup emissions, not for engine life. I'll switch to 5W-30 when the powertrain warranty is gone.

They also recommend premium gas in most locations, but regular gas in Mexico.

 

[traptes]

If you go back to earlier years (I checked 2013), Nissan spec'd 5W-30 for the Armada. For the Nissan Patrol (same as Armada/QX80, only different) with the same VK56VD engine, Nissan currently prefers 0W-20 except 5W-30 (or 5W-40!) in the Middle East (where gas is cheap) for all ambient temperature ranges. 5W-30 and 5W-40 are shown for all temperatures above -22F. They go as high as 20W-50. Apparently, oil weight/temperature charts are too much for US consumers to understand. I strongly suspect that 0W-20 is simply for the small increase in gas mileage and reduced startup emissions, not for engine life. I'll switch to 5W-30 when the powertrain warranty is gone.

They also recommend premium gas in most locations, but regular gas in Mexico.

View attachment 52468

Thank you for this information. It is huge!

 

[SVmike]

2021 QX80, I assume 2018 is the same, driveline didn't really change.

ATF Nissan Matic S, 10 5/8 qt, lifetime (Valvoline Maxlife Multi-vehicle)
(~5 qt for simple drain and fill)

Transfer ATX90A, "Genuine NISSAN Transfer Fluid for ATX90A transfer", 3 1/8 pt,
999MP-TF0870P (>$60/qt!), GL-4, TF0870 (Redline MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4)

Front diff R180A 999MP-1XGPP0P, GL-5 80W-90, 1 5/8 pt (Redline 75W90 GL-5 GEAR OIL)

Rear diff R230 KLD37-00001, GL-5 75W-90, 3 3/4 pt (Redline 75W90 GL-5 GEAR OIL)

Prop shafts (4x U-joints, 2x slip joints) NLGI #2 lithium, (Lucas Red & Tacky)

Power steering, Dexron VI, 1 1/8 qt

Antifreeze POAT (blue)

Hey Mike! By chance, do you know what kind of U-Joints are needed? Would love not to have to replace my whole drive shaft!

 

[Mike_S]

Hey Mike! By chance, do you know what kind of U-Joints are needed? Would love not to have to replace my whole drive shaft!

Sorry, no. I haven't seen any listed for mine (you should add your year/make/model to your .sig). But a 2nd gen shouldn't need them, if they've been kept greased. They should be pretty easy to measure on-car, it's just the bearing OD and axis length. Dana/Spicer probably has a fit in their 1310 or 1330 series. But, if the u-joints are gone from lack of grease, the slip joint may be too, so a driveshaft may be needed.

 

[SVmike]

Sorry, no. I haven't seen any listed for mine (you should add your year/make/model to your .sig). But a 2nd gen shouldn't need them, if they've been kept greased. They should be pretty easy to measure on-car, it's just the bearing OD and axis length. Dana/Spicer probably has a fit in their 1310 or 1330 series. But, if the u-joints are gone from lack of grease, the slip joint may be too, so a driveshaft may be needed.

Hey, I appreciate the tip! Lol went and updated my signature! Hmm I took it to the dealership for regualr maint. but I dont recall ever seeing any grease there. they look pretty rusted if I'm going to be honest. It might be a full replacement for me then after all.

 

[Mike_S]

they look pretty rusted

All the working parts are behind seals, you can't tell by appearance. Is there some other reason you think they need replacement? Noise or vibration?

If you DIY, pumping some grease in is simple. I did all of mine (4WD, so 4x u-joints, 2x slip joints). 50K miles, and I know it had never been done, one of the zerks was blocked by factory paint. For the u-joints, you pump grease until it starts to ooze out. That took ~10 pumps for each u-joint. For the slip joints, I gave them 20-30 pumps and still nothing was coming out and I didn't feel any increase in pressure, so I left it there for now. Too much can apparently cause problems by lengthening the shaft (acts like a hydraulic cylinder) and putting too much force on the diff/transfer case bearings. The slip joints don't have nearly the clearances that the u-joints do to allow grease to pump through them. I'll do it again in 5-10K.

 

[SVmike]

All the working parts are behind seals, you can't tell by appearance. Is there some other reason you think they need replacement? Noise or vibration?

If you DIY, pumping some grease in is simple. I did all of mine (4WD, so 4x u-joints, 2x slip joints). 50K miles, and I know it had never been done, one of the zerks was blocked by factory paint. For the u-joints, you pump grease until it starts to ooze out. That took ~10 pumps for each u-joint. For the slip joints, I gave them 20-30 pumps and still nothing was coming out and I didn't feel any increase in pressure, so I left it there for now. Too much can apparently cause problems by lengthening the shaft (acts like a hydraulic cylinder) and putting too much force on the diff/transfer case bearings. The slip joints don't have nearly the clearances that the u-joints do to allow grease to pump through them. I'll do it again in 5-10K.

Lately, I have noticed when I have my window down when I shift from P to D there will be a slight squeak. I have my foot holding the brake so it could be something with that, I guess, but it has me searching the forums nonetheless. While driving I don't really hear too much but I do feel some slight vibrations.I also feel the vehicle doesn't drive as true as it used too. I have to put more input than I recall to get it to maintain the lane. I don't recall seeing any zerks on mine. I have a 2WD so maybe that's not something I have. I can take some pictures tomorrow and post them here. Thanks for the great information though!

The issue I am having is that the vehicle seems to float all over the road and requires constant input to maintain the lane. I had front and rear rotors and brakes replaced, front and rear suspensions, front and rear sway bar links, front and rear sway bar bushings, front upper and lower control arms replaced. Parts were all Nissan parts supplied except for upper control arms. I want my vehicle to drive like it used to.

All the working parts are behind seals, you can't tell by appearance. Is there some other reason you think they need replacement? Noise or vibration?

If you DIY, pumping some grease in is simple. I did all of mine (4WD, so 4x u-joints, 2x slip joints). 50K miles, and I know it had never been done, one of the zerks was blocked by factory paint. For the u-joints, you pump grease until it starts to ooze out. That took ~10 pumps for each u-joint. For the slip joints, I gave them 20-30 pumps and still nothing was coming out and I didn't feel any increase in pressure, so I left it there for now. Too much can apparently cause problems by lengthening the shaft (acts like a hydraulic cylinder) and putting too much force on the diff/transfer case bearings. The slip joints don't have nearly the clearances that the u-joints do to allow grease to pump through them. I'll do it again in 5-10K.

Hey, if you haven't checked in a while make sure to check your tie rods. Went to the dealership today and they found that the alignment shop I went to botched the last alignment (didn't account for independent suspension) but they also didn't tighten my tie rod nut which was freely spinning. My wife and kids ride in that car sometimes so I shudder at what could have happened! The problem appeared to be fixed after the trip today. I will report back if anything changes!

 

[Mike_S]

the alignment shop I went to botched the last alignment... my tie rod nut which was freely spinning.

Do you off-road? Hit a huge pothole? Why would a 2018 need an alignment?

Not much is going to happen with a loose locknut except worn tires from getting slightly out of alignment. Long before the tie rod can come out of the end, you'd notice very obvious misalignment. I doubt it would even move more than a quarter turn. On every car I've ever worked on, the ends are on by maybe 15 turns or more (guessing, but the threads on the ends are way deeper than on a nut).

 

[SVmike]

Do you off-road? Hit a huge pothole? Why would a 2018 need an alignment?

Not much is going to happen with a loose locknut except worn tires from getting slightly out of alignment. Long before the tie rod can come out of the end, you'd notice very obvious misalignment. I doubt it would even move more than a quarter turn. On every car I've ever worked on, the ends are on by maybe 15 turns or more (guessing, but the threads on the ends are way deeper than on a nut).

I'm not sure that's just what the tech told me. However, he did mention if the issues continue check out new tires cause I have high sidewalls.