[liquid1]

Great find and diagnosing the electrical system. good info, yea it sounds crazy to me the way its setup, I'll do some checking to see what our 2010 outputs. Thanks for the info.

 

[liquid1]

I just wonder what there thinking was behind this. Our 2010 has been setting since last wed I will raise the hood in morning and get a battery Idle reading before first start, then crank engine and see what the Alternator is charging just for kicks and giggles.
I deal with a lot of voltage drop issues working on Inverters, If a Alternator is charging at 13.8 or lower its hard to keep batteries in good working condition if loaded hard.

Ok just went out and done a test on our 2010 Titanium, before starting Battery read 12.45 volts its been setting for 5 days in 30 degree weather, after starting the truck Alternator charging Battery reading is pumping out 14.51 volts initial start hi idle, Then settled down to 14.31 volts. I see the Sensor your talking about red.black.red wires into sensor, Seems like mine is doing what its suppose to right now, I would suggest everyone check theres out to know what kind of charging outputs there getting . I have a new Battery it looks like.. Duralast 710 cold cranking amps . at 32 degrees its 812 cranking amps its 42 degrees outside right now, been checking the volts and its now settled in at 14.21 volts.. I'm happy with these results and will file this mod just in case I need it. My alternator and charging system is kicking chicken , love this suv so far..Good tip fn4..Thanks for the info..
E&J, it will be interesting to see what you come up with.
Here is where my needle set reading 14.3 Volts . charging Battery.

 

[liquid1]

F4N4EVR, I'm about to give your fix a try. I've never stopped to take a look at that before but that thing (sensor) is nothing more than a very small window transformer. My question to you is, does the foil go the length by the 4" or 5"? I'm gonna guess and say length by the 5". I hope I'm right, even if not its a quick change anyway.

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E&J/F4N what goes bad , is it the sensor kinda like a amp/temp reader, or is it the other end regulator.
Whats the Vampire that draws on these Armadas.

 

[liquid1]

Liquid 1, I wish I could say what the "vampire" is. I do know that "things" continue to run after you shut the engine off. A little evidence of that is when you do shut it off, if you continue to watch the instrument cluster you can see the tach and Speedo "dip" and if you listen you'll hear some servos actuate, I think in the ventilation system and then it appears to go quiet. I'm sure the "onboard computers" are still active to some degree. The memory for the audio, nav system if you have it, that "flight" data recorder that captures the last 30 seconds continueous as you drive, and I'm sure it stores that until you start driving again oh and don't forget about the emissions system monitors and who knows what else? These things are typical for todays cars though.

Are you just using a multimeter to test for charging voltage or something more? I know you don't use a multimeter to test a battery because you can't load test it that way. I'd imagine it's the same and I don't have a load tester.

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E&J, Yep I was using a Calibrated Fluke 87, I have a load tester but didn't want to load check my battery no need to put a strain on it if its working at the moment.
You can check Drain draws on Electrical circuits, its a long process and time consuming, Need to remove each circuit at a time that's suspected and install the multi meter between the circuit and read amp draws on amp setting. Todays electronics are getting nuts and demanding more outa the Batteries and Charging circuits.
FN4 hope you can get on, look forward to your comments.

 

[liquid1]

Thanks for this info.