[primoV8]

The OP's post is referencing the WA60s, not the current Z62/Y62s. Also, before others get misinformed, the IPDM is NOT disconnected because if it was, you would not be able to drive, yet alone start the truck.

 

[primoV8]

On the Y62/Z62s, we only have that battery current sensor on the negative cable that has the signal wire for the ecu-controlled alternator.

 

[primoV8]

The other wires on the battery current sensor pigtail are for the battery temperature sensor that is built into the battery current sensor module. These wires should not be cut, disconnected, nor do you remove the plug entirely. Unlike the signal wire for the ECM to determine when to have the alternator charging or not, those wires for the battery temperature sensor reads the ambient temp surrounding the battery. The temp readings--->ECM--->voltage regulator--->increases/decreases voltage.

 

[primoV8]

The blue signal wire mentioned is the signal wire on the battery current sensor for the Z62s. I've always said this may or may not be the specific color depending on year or chassis code and that its always best to check using a multi-meter. Since you've just clarified there is no blue wire on your Y62, the best way to check which is the signal wire is with a multi-meter. Of course, having a service manual for your specific year-Y62 will make it even easier. But if a service manual isn't available, with the pigtail disconnected from the battery current sensor and the truck switched to Ignition, probe each wire. One will have an output of at least 5V and that will be the wire. There is also another method that some Infiniti owners have reported where the dealership/tech de-pins the ground/signal wire from the ECM. I'm sure that can be done on the Y62 but a service manual is definitely needed in order to know which connector and pin location that would be.

 

[primoV8]

Yes, that one particular signal wire would be reading at least 5V. When I did this mod 3 years ago, I removed the battery and battery tray. Since we have yearly emissions in NYC/NYS, I spliced in heat-shrunk bullet connectors. Before bringing my truck in, I reconnect the wire and the DTCs for the battery current sensor are gone. Once inspections are done, disconnect and back to a happy 14V.

 

[primoV8]

It doesn’t trigger the CEL on the dash so no annoying light to worry about. Only when a diagnostic tool is plugged in, it’ll show on the tool.

 

[primoV8]

Howdy, 2019 Armada here with basically the same plug. I'm wondering if ya just wrapped the negative cable in foil, if it would accomplish the same thing?

No.

 

[primoV8]

Nissan has never issued a recall on the battery current sensor because the actual part isn't flawed. The minor flaw just happens to be how this ECM controlled alternator was designed/programmed to work. Supposedly to gain 1mpg, if that.
I believe there may be some members on here and I know on an Infiniti forum that have stated their dealerships were aware of the issue. The techs ended up de-pinning the alternator signal wire from the ECM.

For those wondering about long term issues, I personally have no regrets doing this mod. This was one of the very first mods I did on my QX80 when I first got it and have surpassed 100K miles since doing so.

 

[primoV8]

I see what you mean.

I also have a 2005 Armada, but never had a situation like this.

I'm gonna try the foil and tape first.

But I'm a little concerned that disconnecting the sensor will cause the alternator to overwork. It's assuring that you got to some high mileage, but did you eventually have any issues with the alternator?.

I had an 04 LE and didn't have this issue either. This particular issue has to do with the second gen Y62/Z62 trucks and not the WA/JA60s.

My Z62 QX80 hasn't had any alternator issues and really it shouldn't. The alternators themselves are not manufactured any different. It just has an additional signal wire from the ECM that says when to turn on/off.