[F4N4EVR]

5th try- site advertising bugs keep crashing the page-
The recall identified over 100 faulty ground points in a diagram. So after the ground kit install, locate the ipdm, and ecu grounds, and add a wire from the unit chasis ground, to the vehicle frame. It will speed up the ecu. During routine maintenance, you will see screws and wires in strange (wtf) places. Just address them as time and patience permit. Observe that many of the grounds go into body sheet metal. None of which work as a ground... So any critical component/system should be tied into your add on ground circuit. Nissan has taken note of the increased reliability of the vehicle with the add on ground system, because I had a service manager tell me it voided the warranty. At 95,000 miles, I asked him what warranty would that be? (crickets chirping)(I then identified for him the 2008 recall. He was unfamiliar with it, and pointed out the defective ground system design. He got quiet at that point)

 

[KingRJ]

You wouldn't happen to have this recall info? I can't find any info on the issue you are referring to.
Thanks

 

[jblountak]

Do you know what would happen if instead of wrapping the negative wire with aluminum tape, what if you just remove/unplug the sensor?

 

[KingRJ]

I can find NO INFO on this supposed recall............If you unplug the sensor you will compromise the charging system. It uses that sensor to monitor/change the charge rate.

 

[angelom]

I am having this problem too:

My QX56 will not start...battery draining issue

Thank you for the quick reply but, this happens regardless of if it is a short drive doing errands or a 3 hour drive.. no car or truck at this age should run like this, and none of my past cars have.. I shouldn't have to buy a spare battery, a trickle charge or a battery booster just to make...

www.clubarmada.com

So odd nobody has followed your instructions.
It's been a while... Is this still working for you over the time?

 

[CanyonQX80]

Wow. What a great find. I'll look tomorrow as I have a second gen, but if it's the same I'm doing this. At the moment I'm just running with the ipdm unplugged.

 

[49RFootballNow]

Broke it down into a 6 step layout for those that can follow this form easier:

1) Take the tie wrap off the sensor.

2) Slide the sensor (black plastic circular thing with a plug on the bottom/side/back containing three wires that runs into a wire tube, then back to the IPDM) out of the way.

3) Take a piece of tin foil 4" x 5"wide and wrap it around the negative battery cable, centered where you will move the sensor back to when finished.

4) Once you have the tin foil wrapped, cover it with a layer of electrical tape, one piece thick.

5) Slide the sensor back to center over the tin foil and re-tie wrap it in place (It will now shield the negative battery cable and make the sensor think that it's reading less voltage than actual and tell the system to raise the minimal acceptable charge level to - in my case 13.4 volts- up from 12.1. ).

6) Adding more tin foil results in higher charge levels, higher battery voltage.

 

[CanyonQX80]

Interesting. With the ipdm unplugged, battery voltage is measured 14.2 while charging but only registers 13.8 via obd... I'll bet my resting voltage is low too. Probably better than with the ipdm managing the charging, but not ideal. I'll do this mod next.

 

[angelom]

The dealer applied P0A05 about the ECM reprogram on my 2019 Armada. That did not fix the low battery charge.
I also replaced the Connector Battery Circuit Fuse Link, no improvements.

When it reached 12.24v I decided to unplug the sensor from the negative battery cable.
The voltage now consistently stays between 14.1-4V while driving. 14.4V when I start driving, then it stabilizes at 14.1V.
I see already 12.4V in the morning, before I start driving. So it is recharging now and the slow battery drain is not a problem if I drive a little bit at least once a week.

I have to say that the in-dash gauge, my voltmeter and my odb2 all measure the same number within 0.2V.

I am a bit worried to leave the sensor cable disconnected all year around because I have read that at high temperatures, 100+F, you should not charge the battery above 14.0V.
Ideally, once the battery is fully charged, it should stay at no more than 13.7V while driving... but I am hoping that 13.7V is not too far from 14.1V?

I will get a habit to check the battery water levels.

 

[primoV8]

The OP's post is referencing the WA60s, not the current Z62/Y62s. Also, before others get misinformed, the IPDM is NOT disconnected because if it was, you would not be able to drive, yet alone start the truck.

 

[CanyonQX80]

The OP's post is referencing the WA60s, not the current Z62/Y62s. Also, before others get misinformed, the IPDM is NOT disconnected because if it was, you would not be able to drive, yet alone start the truck.

Right.Thank you. Yes I just disconnected the sensor wire. Is there anyway to do a similar mod on the y62's?

 

[primoV8]

On the Y62/Z62s, we only have that battery current sensor on the negative cable that has the signal wire for the ecu-controlled alternator.

 

[marctronixx]

Im crossposting this so that newcomers can be on the same page and understand mostly what they are experiencing may NOT be an issue with your vehicle.


VARIABLE VOLTAGE CONTROL SYSTEM

Its called The VARIABLE VOLTAGE CONTROL SYSTEM. You are free to do an internet search as other nissan owners have experienced this as well. This has been a "feature" for ever and not just recently.

IF you want to get around this, then you have to remove the sensor that tells the ECM how much voltage the system needs. It is NOT designed to fully charge the battery. At best your battery will stay around ~80-85% charged , and if you do short trips probably on the low end of that. So you end up trickle charging every so often if you want the battery to be at peak.

removing the sensor will allow the generator to output what we all want and love - 13.x to 14.x volts.

from the operator's manual:

The variable voltage control system measures the amount of electrical discharge from the battery and controls voltage generated by the generator.

some may already know this info and others may not. this is just a PSA to get everyone on the same page with how and why this system behaves the way it does.

 

[CanyonQX80]

removing the sensor will allow the generator to output what we all want and love - 13.x to 14.x volts.

I'd like to do just that, since I only do short trips in my 2014 qx80 95% of the time. Is there a good write up that you like?

 

[marctronixx]

its in this thread.

 

[OBXPatrol]

I'd like to do just that, since I only do short trips in my 2014 qx80 95% of the time. Is there a good write up that you like?

Are you still running with the sensor disconnected or have you done something different?

 

[CanyonQX80]

I snipped the blue wire (current sensor) and it's been better. Charges 14~ v all the time now.

 

[OBXPatrol]

I snipped the blue wire (current sensor) and it's been better. Charges 14~ v all the time now.

2018 Armada. If I unplugged the sensor wouldn't this accomplish the same thing? There is a harness on my negative terminal that would be very easy to disconnect.

 

[marctronixx]

yes

 

[CanyonQX80]

My understanding was that it was different as described by primov8, but I suppose I can test