Wouldn't the alternator just charge accurately based on the voltage regulator?The other wires on the battery current sensor pigtail are for the battery temperature sensor that is built into the battery current sensor module. These wires should not be cut, disconnected, nor do you remove the plug entirely. Unlike the signal wire for the ECM to determine when to have the alternator charging or not, those wires for the battery temperature sensor reads the ambient temp surrounding the battery. The temp readings--->ECM--->voltage regulator--->increases/decreases voltage.
Thank you.The blue signal wire mentioned is the signal wire on the battery current sensor for the Z62s. I've always said this may or may not be the specific color depending on year or chassis code and that its always best to check using a multi-meter. Since you've just clarified there is no blue wire on your Y62, the best way to check which is the signal wire is with a multi-meter. Of course, having a service manual for your specific year-Y62 will make it even easier. But if a service manual isn't available, with the pigtail disconnected from the battery current sensor and the truck switched to Ignition, probe each wire. One will have an output of at least 5V and that will be the wire. There is also another method that some Infiniti owners have reported where the dealership/tech de-pins the ground/signal wire from the ECM. I'm sure that can be done on the Y62 but a service manual is definitely needed in order to know which connector and pin location that would be.
New development. I got around to probing that harness tonight. 2 of the 4 pins show 5v exactly with the ignition on (engine off).Yes, that one particular signal wire would be reading at least 5V. When I did this mod 3 years ago, I removed the battery and battery tray. Since we have yearly emissions in NYC/NYS, I spliced in heat-shrunk bullet connectors. Before bringing my truck in, I reconnect the wire and the DTCs for the battery current sensor are gone. Once inspections are done, disconnect and back to a happy 14V.
Finally got around to doing this myself. Not sure how you are supposed to get more than a 5" x 4" sheet of tin foil through that sensor wrapped in electrical tape. I wound as tight as I could and still only managed to get it back up about 1/3rd the wrapped section. Not even sure I needed to replace the tie-wrap but I did anyway.Broke it down into a 6 step layout for those that can follow this form easier:
1) Take the tie wrap off the sensor.
2) Slide the sensor (black plastic circular thing with a plug on the bottom/side/back containing three wires that runs into a wire tube, then back to the IPDM) out of the way.
3) Take a piece of tin foil 4" x 5"wide and wrap it around the negative battery cable, centered where you will move the sensor back to when finished.
4) Once you have the tin foil wrapped, cover it with a layer of electrical tape, one piece thick.
5) Slide the sensor back to center over the tin foil and re-tie wrap it in place (It will now shield the negative battery cable and make the sensor think that it's reading less voltage than actual and tell the system to raise the minimal acceptable charge level to - in my case 13.4 volts- up from 12.1. ).
6) Adding more tin foil results in higher charge levels, higher battery voltage.
I'm replacing that Negitave cable with 1GA on both Armadas hope it helps out with electrical woes. My next step in upgrading my grounding systemFinally got around to doing this myself. Not sure how you are supposed to get more than a 5" x 4" sheet of tin foil through that sensor wrapped in electrical tape. I wound as tight as I could and still only managed to get it back up about 1/3rd the wrapped section. Not even sure I needed to replace the tie-wrap but I did anyway.
Here's what it looks like:
View attachment 49566 hole