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That's a new one! My dealership said my bake switch is ok when I had it in the shop a year or so ago. Is that the same switch as the "brake light switch"?
So you keep the button depressed and pump the brake until it starts? Am I reading this correctly?

Thanks for your reply!
That's exactly what I did it happened on both vehicles I was able to verify it on both vehicles and as soon as the brake lights come in the car would start. And I'm not sure I haven't looked this up but when I called to order two brake light switches I was told there is a recall on them. The problem is the switch is $45 and is not worth my time going back to the dealer so we're fixing it at my shop
 

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2019 armada platinum. 34K miles.

Just pulled the sensor connect off mine after 2 years of intermittent weak or no start issues. Still on the original battery after having taken it to the dealer for a warranty replacement they denied it as the battery read just above the threshold to consider it a "bad" battery. Of course it read as charged....I drove the vehicle to the dealership! SHEESH.

The brake switch was replaced just after we purchased the armada in Sept. 2020.
 

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Same experience I had. I disconnected the sensor a couple of weeks ago and no I’ll effects. Charges @ 14v as it should and problems disappeared. I had already ordered a new battery which I’m running now, but the charging issues disappeared after the disconnect. Insufficient charging can decrease battery life so I have no intention of screwing up this expensive new Odyssey battery.
 

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I just had this same problem with my 2008 armada LE not starting. I followed what you guys said about pumping the brakes and turning engine and WALLA...... it started right up. What the hell. Anyway now is to change the brake light switch . Thanks guys.....🤲

By the way, where is this sensor?
 

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Has anyone been able to compare the fuel economy with the ECM removed vs not removed? Or unpinned IPDM vs pinned IPDM? Does it affect anything else, besides fuel economy, to remove the ECM or unpin in the IPDM? So far I've heard of no issues, except maybe a fault code. And it seems like the battery will actually stay fully charged. Thanks for any feedback!!
 

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Has anyone been able to compare the fuel economy with the ECM removed vs not removed? Or unpinned IPDM vs pinned IPDM? Does it affect anything else, besides fuel economy, to remove the ECM or unpin in the IPDM? So far I've heard of no issues, except maybe a fault code. And it seems like the battery will actually stay fully charged. Thanks for any feedback!!
No affect on fuel economy. Mine's been disconnected for a few weeks now and we just took a long vacation trip and averaged 19.9 MPG which is better than the 18 mpg we average around our town. I'm happy to have unhooked that damn thing.
 

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Sorry, does anyone know that this is? Is it an almost broken ground wire? What is the circular thing? Is that the ambient sensor someone was talking about? It's behind the grill and below the battery. Could this have been causing my no starts, maybe in conjunction with the ECM?? Thanks!!
Hood Automotive tire Tire Motor vehicle Tread


I'm not sure, but I think that's the horn? Could that have affected starting?
 

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@bryan9915 That is a good healthy voltage. Now the vehicle will charge to that voltage all of the time, regardless of engine load.

Under normal driving with the sensor hooked up, the ECM would control the charging. You would not notice this unless you looked at the battery voltage gauge while you were driving and took notice of the needles position.

Your will now charge to 14.5ish all of the time.
I have an '18 Armada and within 6mths of ownership they replaced the battery and brake switch. I do a lot of under 8 mile trips and sometimes my car is parked over the weekend and struggles to start. I unplugged the smart alternator and then got the BCI Malfunction, dash lights up all the warning lights and a restart clears all but the Check engine. I had a series of this event 4x in 6 weeks. Sometimes it would go into limp mode. The 1st time the dealership said it threw a low voltage code and plugged in the smart alternator. I played the game, made sure i was taking longer trips so I didn't experience the no start issues. A week later same issue, they replaced the ADAS. Got it back smart alternator still plugged in, they replaced the ECM. Now, I'm less diligent with the driving to ensure the smart alternator kicks in, experience no start, so I charge and disconnect the smart alternator again. 5 months go by, no issues and sit idling BCI Malfunction, lights on dash, limp mode and have to park and wait a few mins to restart and all is working but the dreaded Check Engine light is on. So I bring it back to the dealership, after plugging the smart alternator back in before dropping off and this time they say it's the Current Sensor that needs to be replaced. Soooo, after this long story, while I recognize the dealership is just throwing parts at codes.....I'm wondering if the smart alternator being unplugged is causing a problem? I see many in other forums and boards with no issues since unplugging the smart alternator.
 

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I think the 19's and 20's specifically have the issue with current sensor/ECM/BCM. I've disconnected mine in my 19 Armada and all is good with no lights on. I think it probably shows a fault code when faults are retrieved, since I didn't actually clip or disconnect the wire into the ECM. But reconnecting and clearing the fault is pretty easy to do if it's ever needed. So, for 2018, my only other ideas are to make sure to check all recalls and service bulletins (dealers don't seem to do this very well) and also make sure the actual battery isn't too damaged and can hold an appropriate charge. It could be that a new battery is needed already, again. Sorry I can't be more help to you. Good luck!
 

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I have an '18 Armada and within 6mths of ownership they replaced the battery and brake switch. I do a lot of under 8 mile trips and sometimes my car is parked over the weekend and struggles to start. I unplugged the smart alternator and then got the BCI Malfunction, dash lights up all the warning lights and a restart clears all but the Check engine. I had a series of this event 4x in 6 weeks. Sometimes it would go into limp mode. The 1st time the dealership said it threw a low voltage code and plugged in the smart alternator. I played the game, made sure i was taking longer trips so I didn't experience the no start issues. A week later same issue, they replaced the ADAS. Got it back smart alternator still plugged in, they replaced the ECM. Now, I'm less diligent with the driving to ensure the smart alternator kicks in, experience no start, so I charge and disconnect the smart alternator again. 5 months go by, no issues and sit idling BCI Malfunction, lights on dash, limp mode and have to park and wait a few mins to restart and all is working but the dreaded Check Engine light is on. So I bring it back to the dealership, after plugging the smart alternator back in before dropping off and this time they say it's the Current Sensor that needs to be replaced. Soooo, after this long story, while I recognize the dealership is just throwing parts at codes.....I'm wondering if the smart alternator being unplugged is causing a problem? I see many in other forums and boards with no issues since unplugging the smart alternator.
Hi. Just curious...

  • has anyone confirmed with Nissan if there is a recall on that battery sensor?
  • can changing the sensor solve the problem or is the problem going to still be there because the component is just faulty?
 

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Nissan has never issued a recall on the battery current sensor because the actual part isn't flawed. The minor flaw just happens to be how this ECM controlled alternator was designed/programmed to work. Supposedly to gain 1mpg, if that.
I believe there may be some members on here and I know on an Infiniti forum that have stated their dealerships were aware of the issue. The techs ended up de-pinning the alternator signal wire from the ECM.

For those wondering about long term issues, I personally have no regrets doing this mod. This was one of the very first mods I did on my QX80 when I first got it and have surpassed 100K miles since doing so.
 
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Nissan has never issued a recall on the battery current sensor because the actual part isn't flawed. The minor flaw just happens to be how this ECM controlled alternator was designed/programmed to work. Supposedly to gain 1mpg, if that.
I believe there may be some members on here and I know on an Infiniti forum that have stated their dealerships were aware of the issue. The techs ended up de-pinning the alternator signal wire from the ECM.

For those wondering about long term issues, I personally have no regrets doing this mod. This was one of the very first mods I did on my QX80 when I first got it and have surpassed 100K miles since doing so.

I see what you mean.

I also have a 2005 Armada, but never had a situation like this.

I'm gonna try the foil and tape first.

But I'm a little concerned that disconnecting the sensor will cause the alternator to overwork. It's assuring that you got to some high mileage, but did you eventually have any issues with the alternator?.
 

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I see what you mean.

I also have a 2005 Armada, but never had a situation like this.

I'm gonna try the foil and tape first.

But I'm a little concerned that disconnecting the sensor will cause the alternator to overwork. It's assuring that you got to some high mileage, but did you eventually have any issues with the alternator?.
I had an 04 LE and didn't have this issue either. This particular issue has to do with the second gen Y62/Z62 trucks and not the WA/JA60s.

My Z62 QX80 hasn't had any alternator issues and really it shouldn't. The alternators themselves are not manufactured any different. It just has an additional signal wire from the ECM that says when to turn on/off.
 

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I see what you mean.

I also have a 2005 Armada, but never had a situation like this.

I'm gonna try the foil and tape first.

But I'm a little concerned that disconnecting the sensor will cause the alternator to overwork. It's assuring that you got to some high mileage, but did you eventually have any issues with the alternator?.
I also tried the foil trick first, and it didn't work for me. So I just unplugged it, and it's been fine ever since (over a year).
 

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My 2019 Armada has had intermittent "no start" issues; the problem seems to be ocasional battery drain. My dealer just replaced the battery, and "depinned ECU Charge Control Circuit" whatever that means. My amp meter is now showing consistent 14V, when before it fluctuated between 10 and 14. What did they do and how will it help?
So the connector attached to the neg post the has 4-6 colored wires just needs to ne unplugged or does one of those colored wires needs to be cut and taped up? If so what color wire? Thanks Tommy
 
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