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No. In Nissan terms “replaced” is pretty much meaning superseded. That’s the old number.
Hello I had a great day, the BCI Malfunction has been fixed. Three things; replace BOTH switches on the break pedal, break switch and cruise switch. Also go to the two sonar boxes in the rear of the vehicle, they are off set in the rear end. Lightly knock on the area around it and see if rock and debris falls out. Also look for the boxes and make sure they are not covered in mud. If the are clean them gently. Lastly, one note in the manual, make sure all of the air in your tires is correctly filled, strange but it say the BCI can malfunction if the are under inflated. Good luck but I'm hyped, right now the car actually drives and breaks better and the collision warnings are working properly. BTW this only cost me a little over $100.

Hello I had a great day, the BCI Malfunction has been fixed. Three things; replace BOTH switches on the break pedal, break switch and cruise switch. Also go to the two sonar boxes in the rear of the vehicle, they are off set in the rear end. Lightly knock on the area around it and see if rock and debris falls out. Also look for the boxes and make sure they are not covered in mud. If the are clean them gently. Lastly, one note in the manual, make sure all of the air in your tires is correctly filled, strange but it say the BCI can malfunction if the are under inflated. Good luck but I'm hyped, right now the car actually drives and breaks better and the collision warnings are working properly. BTW this only cost me a little over $100.
Also the old switches replaced were blued (high heat) and burnt, obviosly a fault in the switches design and function.
 

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Sorry to revive an old thread - my 2018 is doing this and will reset with a key cycle... sitting at dealership now. Anybody have any resolutions to post?



So, I left out one detail that also started happening when the BCI Malfunction started - The truck would occasionally only go into ACC mode when we would try to start. The BCI issue was occurring at least once a day.

Apparently, they found that the brake switch was bad,so they replaced it. And, it's been over a week and about 1600 miles (road trip) and no more codes..



For reference, here is the part # for the brake switch that was replaced - 25320-AX-10A SWITCH ASSY-STOP
Sorry to revive an old thread - my 2018 is doing this and will reset with a key cycle... sitting at dealership now. Anybody have any resolutions to post?



So, I left out one detail that also started happening when the BCI Malfunction started - The truck would occasionally only go into ACC mode when we would try to start. The BCI issue was occurring at least once a day.

Apparently, they found that the brake switch was bad,so they replaced it. And, it's been over a week and about 1600 miles (road trip) and no more codes..



For reference, here is the part # for the brake switch that was replaced - 25320-AX-10A SWITCH ASSY-STOP
hi Todd, thanks for your post. I am experiencing the same issue with both the BC I malfunction and the brake switch. I’m wondering if replacing the brake switch solve the BCI malfunction for you?
 

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hi Todd, thanks for your post. I am experiencing the same issue with both the BC I malfunction and the brake switch. I’m wondering if replacing the brake switch solve the BCI malfunction for you?
Replace both the break and cruise switches, check the sonar boxes for debris and inflate tires to spec. Read above it worked for me no more issues.
 

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My 17' Armada started doing the same thing four weeks ago and has been very intermittent. Because some have had luck with the brake switch I ordered one:

Part No.: 25320-AX10A
SWITCH ASSY-STOP LAMP

from Nissanpartsdeal along with the cruise control switch:

Part No.: 25300-AT30A
SWITCH ASSY-ASCD CANCEL
Replaced by: 25300-3RA0A

The OEM stop lamp switch installed in my vehicle (I have owned my Armada since new) was indeed manufactured by Valeo and was all black in color. The replacement part I ordered was black and green in color. I have replaced the switch and will see how it works. After reading through this thread I don't have a lot of faith that it will be fixed for good. Based on some posts I wonder if there could be an issue with the position of the switch in the vehicle based on the plastic piece that holds the switch in place. That could be flexing/moving over time and causing a similar issue to an intermittent contact in the switch. I have not replaced the cruise control cancel switch yet because I want to see if changing the brake switch makes any improvement at all.

My only ask in here is some posters are coming into this thread, posting that they have had some success with their dealer but then not following up with what actually took care of the problem (if anything). Please take a minute to post a follow up with an explanation of what the dealer did do to successfully repair. I will definitely post my DIY experience because my vehicle has 46K miles and is now out of warranty. I like it too much to just trade it off yet. We shall see.

Update: Almost two weeks now since I replaced the Stop Lamp Switch Assy. with the part I listed above. Prior to replacing it my Armada was having the BCI malfunction on every drive even if it was only a few miles. So far it has not returned. Will keep updating this post as time goes on.
Updating my post again. It's been nearly 3 months and just over 10K miles of driving with no BCI Malfunction error. Just replacing the stop switch on mine took care of the error completely. If you have this error definitely replace that switch first. I did order the cruise control switch (ASCD CANCEL) but did not replace it yet.
 

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I recently encountered an issue with the BCI system where it was indicating that "BCI warning system unavailable". I took it to the dealership to have them check it out. The system had started working properly again prior to arriving at the dealership, but the tech indicated that they pulled a code "C1B55" radar blockage right rear. They suggested that the vehicle undercoating process may have coated the radar sensors causing an issue. Does this make sense? I have had the vehicle sprayed each year with the "Corrosion Free" rust check system since it was purchased new in 2018 (currently has 30K kms on it). The tech said that he blew air inside the rear fender but would have to remove the bumper covers to clean the sensors if the issue continues. Would the rust check process have an impact on the radar sensors?
 

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Today while I was driving suddenly the BCI malfunction light came ON. I had to turn the engine off and fire it up again to make it go away. Anyone have this come up? Not sure why it popped up. Backup camera and sonar is functional.
I've had it happen twice, both times it has been a bad brake switch. Must be a bad designed switch.
 

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I recently encountered an issue with the BCI system where it was indicating that "BCI warning system unavailable". I took it to the dealership to have them check it out. The system had started working properly again prior to arriving at the dealership, but the tech indicated that they pulled a code "C1B55" radar blockage right rear. They suggested that the vehicle undercoating process may have coated the radar sensors causing an issue. Does this make sense? I have had the vehicle sprayed each year with the "Corrosion Free" rust check system since it was purchased new in 2018 (currently has 30K kms on it). The tech said that he blew air inside the rear fender but would have to remove the bumper covers to clean the sensors if the issue continues. Would the rust check process have an impact on the radar sensors?
If the tech was able to pull that specific code than yes, I would assume whatever it is you are having sprayed on the underside of the vehicle could have covered up that sensor and thrown the code. If they clear the code, clean the surface and the error comes back again you could have another problem with a sensor failure not related to the coating you had applied.
 

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If the tech was able to pull that specific code than yes, I would assume whatever it is you are having sprayed on the underside of the vehicle could have covered up that sensor and thrown the code. If they clear the code, clean the surface and the error comes back again you could have another problem with a sensor failure not related to the coating you had applied.
Thanks for input. The rust check spray was completed back in November but am just having an issue now. One would expect that if it were that, it would have caused issues right away. Will see if the code comes back or have any further issues.
 

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Today while I was driving suddenly the BCI malfunction light came ON. I had to turn the engine off and fire it up again to make it go away. Anyone have this come up? Not sure why it popped up. Backup camera and sonar is functional.
[

Same thing here and it was my remote.
 

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I had the BCI malfunction and a hard time starting my 2019 Armada. I bought a Brake Light Switch from Rockauto, and replaced it. It took about 2 minutes to remove the old and put in the new. I continued to have the BCI malfunction. I saw someone post in this thread to get an older Brake Light Switch from a junkyard. I don't have any experience with junkyards, so I went to Ebay and bought a 2010 Infinite Brake Light Switch (used). After I installed the 2010 brake light switch, I have had 0 problems and the collision system works better than it ever has. If I were you, I would buy an older Brake Light Switch, my price shipped was 15 bucks, and it should take care of the issue. Hope this helps!
 

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I had the BCI malfunction and a hard time starting my 2019 Armada. I bought a Brake Light Switch from Rockauto, and replaced it. It took about 2 minutes to remove the old and put in the new. I continued to have the BCI malfunction. I saw someone post in this thread to get an older Brake Light Switch from a junkyard. I don't have any experience with junkyards, so I went to Ebay and bought a 2010 Infinite Brake Light Switch (used). After I installed the 2010 brake light switch, I have had 0 problems and the collision system works better than it ever has. If I were you, I would buy an older Brake Light Switch, my price shipped was 15 bucks, and it should take care of the issue. Hope this helps!
Part number for the one you ended up with?
 

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Yep! I got mine (2019) fixed for the same issue. On had it for 6 months. Was told it was a braking system that caused the issue
 

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I test drove a 2017 and at first, it wouldnt start. Dealer and service department thought it was the battery, or the key fob, so they jumped it and it drove fine. I thought i was going crazy when trying to shift into drive - it was stuck in park for 20 seconds, then the BCI malfunction came on after pulling out at an intersection. Couldnt turn the car off because it wouldnt start. It drove fine otherwise. Dealer called me today and told me it definitely was the battery.

A little research is telling me its probably the brake switch. Is this a big headache of an issue? Ive heard its a simple $20 fix to completely get rid of the issue, but Ive also read complaints that the BCI issue will always return. I dont want my wife and kids stranded anywhere.

Should I get my deposit back and look at a different suv for my wife?
 

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Hi Craig, appreciate your reply! Armada is currently at dealership and I will definitely mention these two possible solutions. Is your Armada running fine after your last visit to solve BCI issue?
mine was in last week Monday. Now 10 days later BCI is back on. Break switch was replaced Monday. No idea what’s causing it today!
 

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Well I have an update for you guys, this BCI malfunction as you can read in my last post was resolved in my 2017 Nissan Armada Platinum by replacing the brake light switch, yes that simple, well the one I bought a few months ago went bad too, so off to the dealership I go again, remember my Armada was 500 miles outside of the warranty and well I had to pay like $60+ for a replacement switch. Now same story, but here's where if you are out of warranty it might be helpful, the switch itself is a simple contact type switch, I took it apart and was able to see that some contacts had become dirty and that would explain the intermittent performance. I sanded the contacts that had some build up on them and cleaned out the dirty dielectric grease, then a further cleaning. Finally prior to assembly I applied new dielectric grease and put some on the contact shaft to prevent dust from getting into the switch, installed it back into the truck, and the codes are gone and everything is working as it should.

View attachment 47919 View attachment 47919 View attachment 47920 View attachment 47920 So long story short if you have this issue and are on a pinch or just don't want to deal with the dealer, here is the DIY fix.
Thanks so much for your updated post!!! Hopefully I can just give your post and picture to a mechanic friend of mine and this will take care of the same problem I'm having with my 2019 Nissan Armada.

I just joined to the forum to inform you all that the BCI thing happened to my wife’s 2017 Armada. It happened 2-3 times, I changed the battery of the key 3 months ago and it hasn’t happened again.

You lose nothing but 5 mins and $5 by giving it a shot.
I have a 2019 Armada with 64,000 miles. I changed my battery to my remote because it completely stopped working. This week my BCI Malfunction has come on 5 times. Goes away when you turn it off but seems this week to always come back on. Have noticed it not starting the first time like normal and sometimes while driving it feels like there may be a little play/give when applying brake to stop.
 

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Here is a possible fix!! I was like everyone else in that the brake switch was going bad and the car would not start on occasion. So I replaced the brake switch and immediately had a BCI malfunction. After a lot of searching, I realized replacing the switch is not as easy as push it in and twist. You have to set the depth correctly! This is mentioned above. Don't hold the brake down when you put the new switch in. Leave the brake in its normal resting position. Then slide in the switch until the white end is depressed and then turn to lock it in place. You can't just push it all the way in as then the brakes don't fully release which triggers a malfunction after driving. Hope this helps. Let me know if it does!
 

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Here is a possible fix!! I was like everyone else in that the brake switch was going bad and the car would not start on occasion. So I replaced the brake switch and immediately had a BCI malfunction. After a lot of searching, I realized replacing the switch is not as easy as push it in and twist. You have to set the depth correctly! This is mentioned above. Don't hold the brake down when you put the new switch in. Leave the brake in its normal resting position. Then slide in the switch until the white end is depressed and then turn to lock it in place. You can't just push it all the way in as then the brakes don't fully release which triggers a malfunction after driving. Hope this helps. Let me know if it does!
Thanks for the timely info, I am going to replace the switch this weekend.
 

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Glad I found this. I'm having the issue on my 2020 Armada. It wasn't starting a couple times before warranty. Took it in at 35,500 miles to get oil change, told them about it, and told them to look it over since warranty almost over. Now of course with 37,500 miles it won't start often, and the code comes up. The dealership looked and looked and finally think its the starter and want $1,200. After arguing with them, dealership told me they can't do anything for price that I will have to pay for it. I have a report filed with 1800-Nissan1 so hopefully they will give me a good faith repair but I'm not holding my breath. I even said, you aren't completely sure what's wrong but they did say the starter does stick, so that's the first step. I'm thinking of trying to swap out the brake and cruise control sensor if nissan won't good faith repair my starter. I will definitely not be going to the dealership to have them repair anything unless nissan covers it. I know next to nothing about cars. I can put gas in the car, and change a battery(although not so sure about some of these new cars!!!), would this be an easy change for me? I did watch a couple videos and took the sensor's out of the car, and then put them back in, I'm guessing this isn't all that hard!? Thanks so much!!!

Thanks for the timely info, I am going to replace the switch this weekend.
How did it work for you? So far so good?!
 

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Glad I found this. I'm having the issue on my 2020 Armada. It wasn't starting a couple times before warranty. Took it in at 35,500 miles to get oil change, told them about it, and told them to look it over since warranty almost over. Now of course with 37,500 miles it won't start often, and the code comes up. The dealership looked and looked and finally think its the starter and want $1,200. After arguing with them, dealership told me they can't do anything for price that I will have to pay for it. I have a report filed with 1800-Nissan1 so hopefully they will give me a good faith repair but I'm not holding my breath. I even said, you aren't completely sure what's wrong but they did say the starter does stick, so that's the first step. I'm thinking of trying to swap out the brake and cruise control sensor if nissan won't good faith repair my starter. I will definitely not be going to the dealership to have them repair anything unless nissan covers it. I know next to nothing about cars. I can put gas in the car, and change a battery(although not so sure about some of these new cars!!!), would this be an easy change for me? I did watch a couple videos and took the sensor's out of the car, and then put them back in, I'm guessing this isn't all that hard!? Thanks so much!!!
Try to remote start it with the fob... when my brake switch failed, it would always start remotely... that should rule out the starter...
 
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