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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Excellent $115 upgrade. Completely transforms the weak Bose audio.

Rockville RW10CA 10" 800 Watts Peak/200 Watts RMS Slim Powered/Active Sealed Car Subwoofer With Bass Remote



  • Disconnect the Battery. The Red Fat wire, listed below, stays energized even with the key off.
  • Take the four driver seat bolts out and lean the seat out of the way, you don't need to disconnect the seat electronics.
  • Pull the wire harness connector out of the Bose subwoofer.
  • Take the flimsy POS Bose unit out by removing the 3 hold down screws and shoot it.
  • Put the 10" sub in place. There is a heater outlet in the middle of the floor underneath, so you'll need to mount the subwoofer up on four rubber block pencil erasers, or something similar to straddle the heater vent.
  • Strap the 10" sub box down. I cut two nylon straps and put screws through the ends, using the 3 original mounting screws and locations. The second strap loops around and tightens the first strap. See photo.
  • Snip the bose wire harness connector off.
  • Wire it up and you're done! See attached wiring diagram.

The Bose amp only sends the low subwoofer frequencies to these speaker wires. Set the subwoofer's switch to accept a low frequency input, not a full range input. That way it doesn't filter the input any more. The front/rear fader and left/right balance have no affect on the output level of the speaker wires. It is a mono sub channel already. I highly recommend using the included remote subwoofer volume control knob by attaching the included phone cord and tucking it under the plastic door runner and up under the dash. This gives you real time control of the sub output which can go from subtle, to making your rear view mirrors unusable. Disregard the wires in my photos coming in from the right (center console) those are for other stuff on my truck. You only need 5 wires from the Bose connector.

Note: You have to split the Bose single sub signal to connect to both RCA inputs, since the new sub-woofer has two voice coils driving a single cone. So even though the Armada/Titan sub-woofer signal is mono, if you only connect one RCA input, the new sub-woofer will operate at only half its potential power (although both coils are always energized, only one will have a signal). You can easily test if both coils are pumping by pulling off one RCA connector while playing music, you should hear a half-volume reduction.
 

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Nice mod/write-up. Thanks for sharing! I will be adding this to list of future mods. Its amazing how much worse the Bose in our Armada sounds compared to the Bose in our Maxima.
 

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so how did you make RCA cables out of the 2 wires . Is there another wire inside of it . if so what wire is positive .
 

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I just want to know what you're smoking that you think the Bose audio is weak? Maybe it's just because I'm old, but I think it sounds great and has tons of bass already. Hahah..
 

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I just want to know what you're smoking that you think the Bose audio is weak? Maybe it's just because I'm old, but I think it sounds great and has tons of bass already. Hahah..
You're old then >:D
The Bose system is NOT anything to write home about. No highs, no lows- must be Bose!
 

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I just want to know what you're smoking that you think the Bose audio is weak? Maybe it's just because I'm old, but I think it sounds great and has tons of bass already. Hahah..
Sound is subjective but... "tons of bass already".... I don't think so "Pops" and I might be older than you :)
 

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I installed this using the high input instead, and the bass hits way harder than the Stock Bose Sub.

Thanks for the idea. I have to keep adjusting the settings to find the best one that suits all music, but right out the box its great!
 

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Thanks to Sgreenlyn for starting this thread and recommending the sub mod. Sounds awesome compared to the Bose. Big difference.

I choose to install using the high level input as oppose to the RCA. If you don't have RCA jacks and want to use the wiring harness that comes with the sub it's an easy install.

Reference Sgreenlyn thumbnail pics, the first post of this thread. The picture does a great job of showing how to wire up the sub. There are two ways to get input signal to the sub.

1. A low level input using RCA inputs, as illustrated in Sgreenlyn post. (the sub doesn't come with RCA jacks)

OR

2. A high level input using the wiring harness that comes with the sub.

I went with option 2. The Bose system on the Armada uses only one channel for input to the sub. There are a total of 5 wires that hookup to the Bose sub. 3 of the 5 are used for:

1. Power. (Red wire, thick)
2. Ground. (Black wire, Thick)
3. Remote on. (White and Green, Thin)

Now there are 2 wires left to hook to sub, One black and one white, both are thin wires. Not sure the gauge, but I'm emphasizing thin becuase there are 2 black wires in this 5 wire harness. AGAIN, reference Sgreenlyns post, he has a great picture how these 3 wires (mentioned above) are hooked up.

Now the 2 remaining wires, one black, and one white. There have been questions on how to hook these 2 wires to the provided wiring harness for high level input. The wiring harness provided with the sub has 5 wires. Of the 5 wires you only need to use 2.

There are 2 wires for the left speaker +/- (2)
There are 2 wires for the right speaker +/- (2)
One wire for a ground. (1)


I choose the left set of wires, you only need one set of wires. So I hooked the white Bose wire to the white L+ sub wire, and then Black Bose wire to the black/white L- sub wire. And you're done. You can hookup the ground if you want, I didn't. The other set of wires for the right speaker I capped and taped them up out of the way.


The sub sounds awesome, really glad I did the upgrade.

Hope this helps on how to hookup high level input with a Bose one channel sub system.
 

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Thanks to Sgreenlyn for starting this thread and recommending the sub mod. Sounds awesome compared to the Bose. Big difference.

I choose to install using the high level input as oppose to the RCA. If you don't have RCA jacks and want to use the wiring harness that comes with the sub it's an easy install.

Reference Sgreenlyn thumbnail pics, the first post of this thread. The picture does a great job of showing how to wire up the sub. There are two ways to get input signal to the sub.

1. A low level input using RCA inputs, as illustrated in Sgreenlyn post. (the sub doesn't come with RCA jacks)

OR

2. A high level input using the wiring harness that comes with the sub.

I went with option 2. The Bose system on the Armada uses only one channel for input to the sub. There are a total of 5 wires that hookup to the Bose sub. 3 of the 5 are used for:

1. Power. (Red wire, thick)
2. Ground. (Black wire, Thick)
3. Remote on. (White and Green, Thin)

Now there are 2 wires left to hook to sub, One black and one white, both are thin wires. Not sure the gauge, but I'm emphasizing thin becuase there are 2 black wires in this 5 wire harness. AGAIN, reference Sgreenlyns post, he has a great picture how these 3 wires (mentioned above) are hooked up.

Now the 2 remaining wires, one black, and one white. There have been questions on how to hook these 2 wires to the provided wiring harness for high level input. The wiring harness provided with the sub has 5 wires. Of the 5 wires you only need to use 2.

There are 2 wires for the left speaker +/- (2)
There are 2 wires for the right speaker +/- (2)
One wire for a ground. (1)


I choose the left set of wires, you only need one set of wires. So I hooked the white Bose wire to the white L+ sub wire, and then Black Bose wire to the black/white L- sub wire. And you're done. You can hookup the ground if you want, I didn't. The other set of wires for the right speaker I capped and taped them up out of the way.


The sub sounds awesome, really glad I did the upgrade.

Hope this helps on how to hookup high level input with a Bose one channel sub system.
Awesome----how do the bose mids and highs keep up? I was thinking about adding another one under the passenger seat as well >:D
 

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Awesome----how do the bose mids and highs keep up? I was thinking about adding another one under the passenger seat as well >:D

I took out the stock Bose sub and put in the Rockville. I have to say it has made a big difference with the remaining Bose system.

The mids and highs sound descent, however, not like a system with Rockford Fosgates or the likes. And the Bose system wouldn't drive the RF's as they where designed to be driven. So without tearing out the whole system, The sub upgrade is pretty damn good for the money. I have no regrets for 120 bucks, and would do it again if I traded vehicles.
 

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Here's a pic with settings on the sub. I installed my sub so I could access the settings from the front seat position. When you secure the sub be careful the length of screws you use. The gas tank in under the drivers seat, so don't use screws too long for the job.

There are 3 settings on the sub, and the remote level control. The cool light on the remote control is bright, I've not permanently mounted mine yet.

Anyways the settings. I set the remote level at the 10 o'clock position.

On the sub;

Low Pass Filter is about 1130 o'clock position
Bass Boost is about 2:00 o'clolck (keep in mind my remote knob is at the 10 o'clock)
Gain is at the 2 o'clock

With these settings I don't have any distortion and seem to have enough range using the remote level control to either increase or decrease bass. I only have a little over an hours time with this new system, so far impressed with it, and like the above settings. If I hear distortion I'll have to make some adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Even though the sub is mono, you need to split each of Nissan's single channel sub signal wires (the thin black and thin white wires) using a simple Y to feed the signal into BOTH the left and right input lines (as shown in my original diagram.

If you only feed the signal into one side, the sub will operate at half power since it has two powered coils, one for the left input and one for the right input, driving the single 10" speaker.

This is easy to verify by trying it both ways. If you like the bass at half power, you'll love it at full power once you split the signal to feed the second coil!
 
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