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I have a 2004 Nissan Pathfinder Armada with a 5.6L V8 and when the car gets warm after 30 - 45 minutes of driving it loses power and nearly dies and becomes un-driveable. When I turn off the car and turn it back on it is driveable for another 5-10 minutes and the same problem occurs. Driving in the city I have to turn off the car at each traffic light just to be able to continue driving it. Does anyone know what the problem could be? There are no codes and no fault lights on at all. Oh I almost forgot when it becomes difficult to drive the car it is very sensitive to the accelerator and I have to be very light-footed.
 

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Fuel pump is where I would look. Are you current on maintenance? MAF sensor could be bad. When it becomes undeliverable what is making it it undeliverable? To have no codes is strange.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Fuel pump is where I would look. Are you current on maintenance? MAF sensor could be bad. When it becomes undeliverable what is making it it undeliverable? To have no codes is strange.
Well, undrivable is when it is not moving forward..when it is acting up I have to be very sensitive with the accelerator......if I step on it too much it's stalling.....MAF Sensor is new and I did the learn procedure to recognize the new MAF Sensor. Yes, I just did it and like I set it is fine as long as the car is cold or when I turn it off and back on...
 

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From your descriptions, this is only happening when the Engine Control Unit (ECU) goes into open-loop mode. A fuel pump would show up all the time (especially under moderate to hard acceleration), not just in open-loop. It's time to get a code reader on the vehicle and see what it's doing when in open-loop. There are just too many things that are possible, otherwise. You'll be parts-changing (what we used to call 'Easter-egging') until you get a read on what the ECU thinks is going on.
 

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From your descriptions, this is only happening when the Engine Control Unit (ECU) goes into open-loop mode. A fuel pump would show up all the time (especially under moderate to hard acceleration), not just in open-loop. It's time to get a code reader on the vehicle and see what it's doing when in open-loop. There are just too many things that are possible, otherwise. You'll be parts-changing (what we used to call 'Easter-egging') until you get a read on what the ECU thinks is going on.
I did hooked up a code reader but nothing is showing up..even went to Autozone and oreillys to read it too..nothing there..
 

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It would be worth your while to take some time searching the TitanTalk board. I've been a member there for 18 years, and there are few problems that folks there haven't had - so to speak.

You are beginning to go down the path to 'easter-egging' - changing stuff in hopes of finding it. Before you do that, you need some guidelines in hand: Always keep the original symptoms in mind. Yours here are a lack of power once the system gets to open-loop operation. That points to things which the system ignores when in closed-loop. Keep in mind the age and mileage of the vehicle. So that in mind, you always change the cheapest/easiest stuff first. You also should try to get a troubleshooting tree in hand.

But just going from memory, I have a couple things to check. Has anyone had a good hard look at the vacuum hose routing on the vehicle? Maybe someone was "servicing" it and knocked something loose, or broke one, given the mileage. (Some of them can get brittle with this much time.) Have you had the oxygen sensors changed? Those kinds of things are ignored in closed-loop mode.

Again, cheapest-thing-first, I'd take a REALLY hard squint at the hoses. This acts like a vacuum leak, where you can't really open the throttle without things starving for fuel and shutting down.

Anything beyond this point for me means referring to the troubleshooting tree.
 

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A pocket scan tool, like those used at the local auto parts stores can’t do anything except read whatever DTCs are stored in the ecu. A full range diagnostic tool is needed if wanting to read and diagnose specific parameters.
Being the truck is an 04 without any stored DTCs could be either the IPDM or fuel pump on its/their way out.
 
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I had this happen to my 04 many years ago. It didn't throw any codes at all either. My tech put in some work and found that the catalytic converters needed to be replaced. Armada has been running well ever since.
 

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I replaced the fuel pump yesterday and took it for some test driving and so far it did not act up..ill keep testing it for a couple of days...usually, it acted up when it was really warm outside.
Good News! I had the same issue on my ‘04. It was the fuel pump and it was losing pressure when hot.


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