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I can’t say for sure if your Y62 Armada has the same ecm harness/pin locations as my Z62 QX80.
But the negative battery terminal on your Y62 should have the battery current sensor. Again, the signal wire for the ecm controlled alternator is a blue wire on my Z62. I don’t know if Nissan changed it as my truck is a ‘14.
If you have a multi-meter on hand, it is very easy to check. Unplug the pigtail from the battery current sensor. Switch the ignition to on and probe the 4 terminals on the pigtail. The terminal/wire reading approx 2.5V is the signal wire.

Btw, I have to give props to marctronixx. He had posted about this ecm-controlled alternator before. So when I first got my QX80, it was one of the first mods I did on the truck.
 
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I can’t say for sure if your Y62 Armada has the same ecm harness/pin locations as my Z62 QX80.
But the negative battery terminal on your Y62 should have the battery current sensor. Again, the signal wire for the ecm controlled alternator is a blue wire on my Z62. I don’t know if Nissan changed it as my truck is a ‘14.
If you have a multi-meter on hand, it is very easy to check. Unplug the pigtail from the battery currentsensor. Switch the ignition to on and probe the 4 terminals on the pigtail. The terminal/wire reading approx 2.5V is the signal wire.

Btw, I have to give props to marctronixx. He had posted about this ecm-controlled alternator before. So when I first got my QX80, it was one of the first mods I did on the truck.
My issue started after 23k miles, never a problem before that. Just bought a new Interstate battery because one cell tested almost 1.25 volts lower than the others. I feel stupid cause it's a 2018 Platinum Armada purchased new in '19. Didn't even know ( maybe didn't want to ) the battery has an 84 month warranty because I haven't felt confident with the local service department. Every time it's been taken in, and that's not a lot, it takes longer than they say, and always make the statement that they don't see too many Armadas at their location.....heck I bought it there and it's a Nissan....they sell lots of the Titans and it's the same vehicle....

Should I sorry about the ecm moving forward?
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
There’s a open recall . Have it done . The wrong software is killing the battery .
 

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I just bought a used 2019 Infiniti QX80 and have had multiple issues with it not starting due to a dead battery. I've read the email chain and noted there was a Technical Bulletin dated Oct. 2019 to install new software on the ECM. Just curious if people have had this done and if it has been successful?

I have noted similar issues on the Infiniti website. This seems like an issue that Nissan should be accountable for addressing. I also owned a TDI Jetta so, sadly, I have experience dealing with lemons.

With that said, I noted one person had contacted a lemon law attorney. Just trying to become educated and figure out next steps. I should be able to rely on a relatively new, expensive car to start!!

Thanks for any input.
 

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We bought this sweet Nissan Armada used last year from a dealer in SF. It was awesome until the battery died a few mos later. We thought it was because we don't use it often due to covid, so we got a new battery installed. We start it every week, but still don't drive it often and here we are again today with another dead battery. At first we thought it was the battery in the keyfobs, which also seem to have as short lifespan. (Is this a known issue?). After replacing both keyfob batteries, we realized its the vehicle battery itself, which is a headscratcher since we have barely put 500 miles on it.

Is it normal for a brand new battery to just die like this? I just plugged a trickle solar charger into the lighter, with the solar panel in the windshield. Is this enough to keep a good battery alive? Is it enough to charge the dead battery? I've never had a vehicle die so often. Makes me wonder if I made a mistake buying this.

this is the solar charger I'm using. I just plugged it in today for the first time.

49382
49383
 

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@cyberjamin read more about the potential here in this thread and here:


fob batteries dont wear out fast in my years of experience of two armadas and a qx. make sure the batteries you purchase are fresh and not stale old stock.
 

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@cyberjamin read more about the potential here in this thread and here:


fob batteries dont wear out fast in my years of experience of two armadas and a qx. make sure the batteries you purchase are fresh and not stale old stock.
Thanks! It's a bit technical for me. Any chance you know if it applies to 2017? I noticed the post is from 2014, and they mention models from 2007-2010.
 

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WRT fob batteries, both of mine died shortly after purchasing my 2011 Armada about 2.5 years ago. Replaced with RayoVac batteries. Again died shortly thereafter. Put in energizer batteries and all has been good. Suggest you change your fob battery as well as brand.

WRT your vehicle battery, buy yourself a good battery charger. One of the best car related investments I've made. I now have two. Charge the battery and check it daily afterward to see if the battery is losing charge. If so you may need to do a parasitic drain test. There are many ways to do this but I've read that the easiest way is to measure voltage drop across the fuse. Google if you need more information.
 

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WRT fob batteries, both of mine died shortly after purchasing my 2011 Armada about 2.5 years ago. Replaced with RayoVac batteries. Again died shortly thereafter. Put in energizer batteries and all has been good. Suggest you change your fob battery as well as brand.

WRT your vehicle battery, buy yourself a good battery charger. One of the best car related investments I've made. I now have two. Charge the battery and check it daily afterward to see if the battery is losing charge. If so you may need to do a parasitic drain test. There are many ways to do this but I've read that the easiest way is to measure voltage drop across the fuse. Google if you need more information.
Thanks for the recommendation on batteries for the FOBs.

I'm looking at getting a Solar Battery Tender. I don't have the ability to use AC, so solar is my only option. Will this work once I have a fully charged battery?
 

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Thanks for the recommendation on batteries for the FOBs.

I'm looking at getting a Solar Battery Tender. I don't have the ability to use AC, so solar is my only option. Will this work once I have a fully charged battery?
Typically a battery tender won't charge your battery but should keep a fully charged battery fully charged. If you have a large parasitic drain the tender may not keep up.
 

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I just had the battery tested. Turns out it has bad cells. No parasitic drain. They did a hydrometer test and they tested the gravity of fluid in each cell.

It's Deka battery, which I've been told is not a good battery top have and I should have an Interstate instead. Lukily. this is still under warranty and they are willing to replace it with an Interstate

Typically a battery tender won't charge your battery but should keep a fully charged battery fully charged. If you have a large parasitic drain the tender may not keep up.
 

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I have just had the dead battery issue crop up again. I believe this is around the 3rd time. I went in for an appointment and came out after a half hour and the battery was absolutely dead. Not even a click out of it !! I have a 2018 Platinum and have already had the brake switch replaced and it seems to have solved a few other electrical issues including the vehicle not starting. Well, I really don't want to cut into the factory wiring to make an alteration, but it sounds like Primo V8 is on to something. Talking directly to him, you sound smarter than the dealerships !! Please , if anyone has the solution from a dealership, please advise ! I printed off the ECM service bulletin for future reference. Thanks !
 

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some people have stated the dealerships have a software update that can change the way the system charges.

the sensor on the negative battery can be reversed if you need to do it. to me that is the fastest way to prevent the issue.
 

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I have just had the dead battery issue crop up again. I believe this is around the 3rd time. I went in for an appointment and came out after a half hour and the battery was absolutely dead. Not even a click out of it !! I have a 2018 Platinum and have already had the brake switch replaced and it seems to have solved a few other electrical issues including the vehicle not starting. Well, I really don't want to cut into the factory wiring to make an alteration, but it sounds like Primo V8 is on to something. Talking directly to him, you sound smarter than the dealerships !! Please , if anyone has the solution from a dealership, please advise ! I printed off the ECM service bulletin for future reference. Thanks !
My battery problem was only fixed after they reprogrammed the ECM AND ALSO replaced my factory battery with a larger Interstate battery. Have an 09 Armada.
 

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This issue is nothing new and really surprised that Nissan still hasn’t “fixed” it. Plenty of Nissan/Infiniti owners on other forums have complained about the same thing and I first learned of this when marctronnix talked about this years ago. The first time I did this same mod was on my cousin’s 13 Rogue. She was having the very same problem with the battery just dying out. It’s been almost 3 years since I did this mod on her Rogue and she’s still on the same Autocraft agm battery; same with my QX80 as the battery is always a healthy 14v.

I forgot to mention over at an Infiniti forum, some people have reported about an ECM reprogram and some have had the dealership de-pin the ecu controlled alternator signal wire from the ecu.
 
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Thanks again for all your info. These forums ( the people ) are a wonderful wealth of great information.

I had seen a wire alteration at battery, it could have been from Primo V8. Could you please supply me with that info again please. Thanks in advance !
 

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On my Z62, the (E63) battery current sensor connector has 4 terminals/wires (1-green, 2-sky blue, 3-violet, 4-red). Terminal 2/sky blue wire is the power supply circuit wire for the battery current sensor. With ignition on, this outputs approx. 5V. The first time I did this mod, I just cut the wire. Later on, I added heat-shrunk bullet connectors to be able to re-connect this wire for annual NYC emissions without having any DTCs related to the mod. Afterwards, I just unplug.

I forgot to mention this in the past but there is another wire, Terminal 1/green which is the battery temp sensor input signal circuit. This will also show approx. 5V.

I think another member here with a Y62 had posted on another thread that there were 2 blue wires. Technically, it should be the same on the Y62s but I can't confirm that because I personally haven't seen the colors coming out of the connector on the battery current sensor.
 
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