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Discussion Starter #1
A/C on wives car started leaking a few weeks ago, after some troubleshooting found the leak coming from either the evaporator or the expansion valve. Dealer quoted me $1300 just for labor, so i decided to tackle it myself. Past the point of no return now, we'll see how it goes. If anyone has any pointers feel free to chime in.
 

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OMG!!! What a nightmare!

You sir are a brave soul, my hat is off to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Black Bertha is 90% back together, only casualty was a passenger side airbag connector and the connector for the key disabler thingy. Big Black Bertha has cold AC again, mamma and the kids are happy!! I, on the other hand, am full of bruises and busted knuckles!!!
 

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Good job man! Now I know who to call when mine goes out, lol!!
 

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I'm curious to know if that job could have been done with a little bit less "dismantle". When I did a buddies Dodge truck I removed only enough stuff to lift the dash out of the way so I could sneak behind it and remove the heater/evap box. And when I worked on Volvos you could 1/4 the labor guide time by NOT following the Volvo shop manual. It could be done in under 2 hours instead of the 8-9 tht they called for for the flat rate.
Just curious...


Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Paul, trust me I tried to get it out of there with as little disassembly as possible. The problem in the steel beam runs from one side of the car to the other and the heater/ac box goes from the passenger side to the steering column, can't disassemble it in the car to get to the evaporator core.
 

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Did you change the actuator while in there? Would have been good to do while apart.
 

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Very impressive! I initially removed the dash to replace a faulty actuator. But now either the TXV or the Evap Core seems to have a leak, as I am seeing the UV dye discharge from the cabin drain.. I am also to cheap to pay the dealership or other mechanics to work on my 2010 titan. So here goes another 8h+ job and hopefully only 65$ for an evap Core from rockauto.com
 

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So far so good. Need to get the driver's side complete and take the wheel out carefully. Updates to come. Biggest hassle is the wiring harness and trust me get some need nose to save yourself and take tons of pictures. And plastic bags with a permanent marker..
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Um.....wow. just wow. You go man! I'm impressed.
 

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So success in getting everything out labeled and situated. Confirmation the original drop from the cabin drain and the evap core showing failure. Meanwhile I am going to buy new a evap core, gaskets and a new TXV/hblock just to be sure that none of those were the culprits. Provided I may be able to to get them from a pick'n'pull yard i would rather buy new from rockauto.com. here are some pictures for your enjoyment. :) there is 1 sneaky 5.5mm under the Unit before you try and pry it out just FYI.. be sure to remove the 4 nuts on the steering wheel so it can drop and 3 nuts need to be removed from the outside of the driver side door. Just be cautious before using full force to pull it out. 2 hoses connect to the inside unit u can remove those with pliers and it helps to have a second pair of hands to tug from the engine compartment. That's about it y'all. Now I will await the new parts.
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Discussion Starter #17
Glad to see someone else had the intestinal fortitude to tackle this job! I know I am going to have nightmares tonight just thinking about when I did mine. Good news is it has been two years with no AC issues. Kudos to you!
 
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