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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
I’ve had a metallic roulette wheel noise coming out of what I think is the driver side for about a month or more.

Mechanic #1 wrote on the cover page that the driveshaft rear joint is bad. On the inspection checklist page he wrote that the front shaft joint is bad. Does this mean the same thing but in different words?
He told me that the car wasn’t worth fixing and to get rid of the car.

In order for me to sell it I have to fix the problems. So in essence I need to deal with this because I don’t have a choice.

This leads me to mechanic number 2 (who advertise as being Japanese auto specialists in Edison, NJ). They told me that the noise was coming from the front propeller shaft and that the front prop shaft needed to be replaced. They quoted me a price of $700.00 for the part. I thought that was high and asked if I could buy my own part. They said yes and that the labor charge would go up by $50.00 dollars (a total of $165 per hour). Days later I asked what exactly was wrong with the driveshaft that it needed to be replaced instead of replacing the U- Joints? The young guy at the desk said that the driveshaft comes as one unit and that the U joints don’t get put in separately?

I’m stumped because I swore what I researched said different.

Ok so, I already bought a $297.79 front propeller shaft by Doorman but now I’m asking myself if maybe I should find yet another mechanic and have all the U- Joints (for the front and rear drive shafts) replaced. No mention yet from any of the mechanics about the rear drive shaft.

I’m getting a nagging feeling that I’m not getting satisfactory explanations or being dealt with honestly. Am I crazy?

Yes, I am a woman and maybe that’s why the mechanics or desk staff talk to me like I’m learning disabled. HAHAAHA
I don’t like to think that because what other people think isn’t my business. My frustration comes from waisting time and money in a rabbit hole since I bought this car @ 89.5K miles.

So far I’ve put 2K miles on the car and am spending more than I anticipated in order to make it nice and safe.

I could really use the advice of someone who knows about the Infiniti QX56’s. I drove a 97 Toyota 4Runner for 20 years and never had real issues till the end at 282K miles.

PS if anyone knows of a really good and honest mechanic who likes to explain things in a 35 mile radius of Belleville, NJ please let me know. Super grateful for any advice.
TIA
 

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The newly purchased front drive shaft already comes installed with new U-joints. It shouldn't even take shop with a lift no more than 20-30 mins to unbolt the old drive shaft and install the new one.

What year is your QX56? The first gen armads/titan/qx56 were known to develop leaks at the rear main seal of the front differential. This would be a good time to replace that seal if a leak is also diagnosed. That is where the front end of the front drive shaft bolts onto; the rear end of the front drive shaft bolts onto the transfer case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you for the answer. My apologies for my lack of clarity. The vehicle is a 2004. No mention (yet) of a leak at front diff seal but mechanic #2 did mention a transmission axle seal leak at the passenger side. Can I then gather from your statement that it is not worth it to replace U-joints on the drive shaft (that may not have any other damage other than bad u- joints) but rather to replace the assembly all together? Also, you recommend that I request the front diff seal replacement, should I also have both axle seals changed out?
 

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U-joints on these trucks ARE replaceable and worth changing when needed. The stock u-joints do wear out and will have obvious wear or play in the yokes they’re pressed in. Plenty of YouTube videos from Titan owners showing what to look for when trying to rule out a bad drive shaft(s).
If you don’t mind paying more, a complete front drive shaft will make installation much easier and quicker for the person doing the work.

That axle leak your mechanic mentioned is actually from the front differential as well. A VERY common leak that happens, sometimes on both the driver and passenger side; along with the rear main seal.
When replacing the cv flange axle seal, a new circlip is also needed to prevent the cv axle from popping out of the differential.

CV flange seal, 38342-8S110 (same part # for both sides)
Circlip, 38225-8S110
Rear main seal, 38189-8S110. I only recommended this because in order to replace this seal, it requires removing the front drive shaft. If there isn't a leak, no need to replace it.
 
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2013 Armada Platinum 8 passenger
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on my pathfinder (very similar to the armada) the breather tube for the rear diff became plugged with muck and dirt over time, and the diff was actually under pressure! Of course it also started to leak. I had to change out the breather line, but once I did that, the leak went away...
 
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